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Just got off the phone with the service manager and they determined that the charging system was the problem. Apparently it was shorting out on the gas tank (bad install from the factory). So parts are on order - he's trying to have my back to me for the weekend, but no guarantees. In a weird way I feel so much better that they actually found a problem - I can only hope that this is the only 'glitch' the factory made on her.
Last edited by SpydherLuv; 08-31-2011 at 09:25 AM.
Reason: stupid autospell
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Could it be argued that owners who live in areas of extended cold weather that a fully charged battery will resist freezing the best.
I live in NC and the trumpet lived on a tender and gave me no problems whenever she wanted to go out.
Ray
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Originally Posted by Rayelljay
Could it be argued that owners who live in areas of extended cold weather that a fully charged battery will resist freezing the best.
I live in NC and the trumpet lived on a tender and gave me no problems whenever she wanted to go out.
Ray
I never had a gel battery freeze when it was low [not saying it can't] But i had a few acid batterys freeze and swell up.
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my 2010 RT SM5 came iwth a pigtail on it.
I have used a battery tender for more than
10 yrs. now; and have always had good
results with them (on 4 batteries...)
I plug mine in on weekends that I don't
get to ride, because of home work. I'm a
firm believer of tneders; and have seen
the positive results of one in action.
just quit the debate and appropriate. it'll
never let you down.
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As I read about how many of you use battery tenders, it got me to thinking that if I had plugged Liberty into a tender it probably would have masked the problem because a tender bypasses the charging system, and I could have found myself stranded in any number of unsafe situations or places. I'm sure the issue would have reared its ugly head at some point, but I'm glad it happened close to home. As a general rule, I only use a tender if I know I'm not going to ride for 3 or more weeks.
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bad battery
had same problem with mine put battery in and all is ok 1000 miles
Originally Posted by RGVSpyderGirl
Have had to jump start my battery three times in the last month. Took it in to dealer yesterday. Battery was only at 48%. Not enough to start engine. They put it on charger until it was fully charged. I drove 6 miles home. Less that 24 hours later, I put a Battery Tender on it. According to lights on tender, it had gone from fully charged to less than 80% charged just sitting in the garage overnight. Took 2 hours to get to over 80% and another hour to get to fully charged again. This is a brand new bike -- 395 miles. Just got my license yesterday so have been limited in how much I could ride. But jeez! What is draining my battery? The manual says to put it on a trickle charger if it sits for more than a month. Mine has never sit more than a week. Do I need to insist on a new battery or is something else wrong?
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Spyder Dealers need to look at this the Harley dealer way
At a Harley Dealership they install a Battery Tender Pigtail on every new bike, and the first thing they sell the new owner is a Battery Tender. Because motorcycle batteries will run down over time. I left my new 2011 RT-S for 2 weeks and when I tried to start it, it wouldn't!
I installed a tender the next day and haven't had a problem since.
So all you Spyder people out there with battery problems, if you don't have a battery tender installed. Get Smart buy one!!!!!
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Originally Posted by RetiredCGRider
At a Harley Dealership they install a Battery Tender Pigtail on every new bike, and the first thing they sell the new owner is a Battery Tender. Because motorcycle batteries will run down over time. I left my new 2011 RT-S for 2 weeks and when I tried to start it, it wouldn't!
I installed a tender the next day and haven't had a problem since.
So all you Spyder people out there with battery problems, if you don't have a battery tender installed. Get Smart buy one!!!!!
A Spyder should not run down in two weeks...especially in warmer weather. I suspect you have deeper problems. Better check your battery and frame connections, and maybe test the battery.
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Originally Posted by NancysToy
A Spyder should not run down in two weeks...especially in warmer weather. I suspect you have deeper problems. Better check your battery and frame connections, and maybe test the battery.
My two wheeler sits for over 3 weeks at a time and starts right up,
My Rhino will sit for months and start right up. [5 year old battery]
I don't use a tender on either of them. I find if i have to use a tender to keep a battery charged that's only sitting a couple of weeks'
And there's nothing else wrong it's time for a new battery.
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I just came back from Afghanistan in June after buying buying my 2010 Triumph 1700 Thunderbird in February. It was not left on a charge at all. Started right up upon my return.
It does sound like you may have another problem if you have to (this is in reply for Retiredcgrider) keep it on charge like that.
Don't get me wrong I am not against battery tenders (personally I use a Triumph Optimizer charger) they do serve a purpose...but I was surprised that my bike did start up after sitting idle for four and a half months.
Dennis
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BATTERY DRAINAGE
I HAVE AN RT ALSO. NEW 2011. I NOW ALWAYS PLUG IT INTO A BATTERY TENDER AT THE END OF A RIDE. ALSO HEARD TODAY AT A SPYDER CLUB GET-TO-GATHER THAT IF YOU LEAVE THE KEY IN BUT TURNED OFF ,IT WILL DRAIN THE BATTERY DOWN, HAS ANYONE ELSE HAD THIS PROBLEM ,OR KNOW THE VALIDITY OF THIS SITUATION???? MY THANKS TO RETIREDCGRIDER FOR THE TIP ON THE BATTERY TENDER.
Last edited by firstshirt; 02-06-2012 at 02:22 AM.
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SpyderLovers Founder
Originally Posted by firstshirt
I HAVE AN RT ALSO. NEW 2011. I NOW ALWAYS PLUG IT INTO A BATTERY TENDER AT THE END OF A RIDE. ALSO HEARD TODAY AT A SPYDER CLUB GET-TO-GATHER THAT IF YOU LEAVE THE KEY IN BUT TURNED OFF ,IT WILL DRAIN THE BATTERY DOWN, HAS ANYONE ELSE HAD THIS PROBLEM ,OR KNOW THE VALIDITY OF THIS SITUATION???? MY THANKS TO RETIREDCGRIDER FOR THE TIP ON THE BATTERY TENDER.
There is no truth to that, I checked with a BRP factory tech on that rumor.
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Battery drainage has been an ongoing issue for me for a LONG time. No cure for mine yet and a battery tender isnt an option for me. Maybe BRP will find the issue, maybe not. I am not holding my breath anymore though.
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/s...ave01-question
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Thank you!
I just wanted to say Thank you to Dudley for posting these. Long story short for me, 1) I installed a new battery a few months ago, but didn't really ride after because it was pretty cold here in DC area. 2) yesterday I installed a dual USB with Volt meter rocker switch, something I've been wanting to do for a while. After running the engine for a while, the volt readings kept on dropping which caused me to think that I had a short or leakage somewhere (I am not super smart about electricity). So I put on my software engineering hat and decided to remove the switch, then completely remove everything I entered and nothing, voltage kept on dropping. 3) Researching and hoping that I did not have to take it to the dealer, I stumbled on this post. Today, I went back to check my battery terminals and "tight wasn't tight enough". 4) Started the engine, checked with volt meter, battery was holding 14v while running and was not dropping.
Thank you!
Originally Posted by Dudley
Too many times I have read where a dealer seems to brush off a Spyder owner. My guess here:
1. As was posted, bad cell.
2. Possible malfunctioning charging system (highly unlikely, but still probable)
3. Something is draining your battery when the Spyder is turned off (most likely cause). That will take some investigative work on the dealer's part.
4. Loose battery cables are always a probable. Many times what seems tight is not tight enough for a battery connection. The cables need to be TIGHT!
Another thought...I don't know of any dealer that charges the battery to full charge before turning over a new Spyder to a new owner. So, with the few miles you have over the month you have owned it, the Spyder probably never has been ridden for a long period of time, thereby never reaching full charge. Couple that with loose battery cables and the charge will never complete. The dealer charging the battery will not be affected by the loose cables, only when you try and charge it as you ride. After the dealer charged the battery and you rode it, the lights, etc., drained it again and if the cables are loose, it never charged up. So, my final guess, loose battery cables.
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I have a 2011 Can AM Spyder RTS-SE5 and just experienced a Check DPS Warning - it comes and goes (seems to reset itself). I checked the fuses associated with the DPS, but found they are OK. Is there a sensor in line somewhere that could be failing? Steering is fine - no problems - just this crazy warning light that I cannot track down to fix.
Last edited by Peter Aawen; 08-28-2023 at 08:29 PM.
Reason: find; & ? ... ;-)
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Very Active Member
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by hensmanj4220
I have a 2011 Can AM Spyder RTS-SE5 and just experienced Check DPS Warning - it comes and goes (seems to reset itself). I check the fuses associated with the DPS, but found they are OK. Is there a sensor in line somewhere that could be failing. Steering is find - no problems - just this crazy warning light that I cannot track down to fix.
ARtraveler is correct about the age of this post ..... however I'll try and answer your question ..... the early year Spyders 08 to 11 ( or so ) had serious issues with Failing DPS units ..... BRP actually had a RECALL on them and they were Replaced for FREE .... it's now 2023 so I doubt they will swap yours for free .... a Dealer could tell you ( based on your VIN ) whether yours was done EVER ..... good luck .... Mike
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Active Member
Originally Posted by clueless
I would vote for lose battery connections
yes...... that would be my First thing to check ... and the Cheapest too.
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Very Active Member
Yes, check the battery connections. And while you are there put star washers under the screws, so they won't come loose again. Next step is how old is the battery and is it in good shape? Have it load tested at an auto parts store or shop. Also, the early VTwin had a charging systen that was barely adequate to supply the needs of the vehicle when running. Are you running any extra electrical loads? If your system is at max you may not be getting enough electrical power to feed the battery and the DPS as it is a real power hog. BTW the Spyder electrical system will NEVER fully charge the battery, unless it is fully charged to begin with. Charge it with a Battery charger not a maintainer. Again a maintainer will not fully charge a battery either
Happy TRAils/NSD
Paul
2012 RT L
AMA 25 years Life Member
TRA
PGR
Rhino Riders Plate #83
Venturers #78
TOI
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