What's everybody using for a lift? I'm going to need one. I've been looking at Pitbull, and L&S. I watched a review on the harbor freight lift, and it basically said it was unstable. I used to have a Craftsman to service my Kawi Nomad 1600, and it worked OK. Not sure how it would work on my F3.
Since the craftsman is almost the same as the HF it should work fine. I have the HF bought in 2008 and it works good. I do have to run the Spyder up on 2x4s to get it underneath. I also use a regular floor jack and ramps.
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Since the craftsman is almost the same as the HF it should work fine. I have the HF bought in 2008 and it works good. I do have to run the Spyder up on 2x4s to get it underneath. I also use a regular floor jack and ramps.
Thanks for the info. I never had a problem with that Craftsman. I know I need one.
Since the craftsman is almost the same as the HF it should work fine. I have the HF bought in 2008 and it works good. I do have to run the Spyder up on 2x4s to get it underneath. I also use a regular floor jack and ramps.
have done similar depending on the maintenance, have also just used ramps for front (tires strapped down) & floor jack on swing arm allows more available space for catch pan.
** (comparing rims, but shows the strap locking it in place)
Last edited by Peter Aawen; 06-16-2023 at 01:54 PM.
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What is it your working on? I find that for the most part I am working on ether the back or front and just a low level floor jack underneath in the right place works well! heck if you get it in the right place you can pick the whole bike off the floor, but it's not very stable and you would need jackstands if you were going to wrench on it!
I have the Big Blue, and while it was a few $$$$ my back, knees and other parts of my body are very happy I bought it. It can lift my RTL high enough to avoid having to bend down for hours on end and is easy to operate. I did have an ATV lift but you are pushing your luck keeping it stable in my opinion - there are some jobs I just would not do on the ATV lift.
I use axle stands for the front a arms. You could use blocks of wood or something.
And some blocks under the rear tyre.
Stops it swaying and solid as a rock.
Ramps are great as well.
most consumer jacks are good enough for lifting the bike high enough to be able put stable support under it before working on it. I use a combination of jack stands, screw jacks and/or RV leveling blocks.
most consumer jacks are good enough for lifting the bike high enough to be able put stable support under it before working on it. I use a combination of jack stands, screw jacks and/or RV leveling blocks.
Ya, thanks. For now that's what I'll end up doing. I guess the bike has to be in the shop 1st. I was supposed to be picking it up today, but now it looks like Wednesday. That'll be 3 weeks, since I paid for it. I'm bummed about not having yet. I'm ready to go.
Use the Big Blue Lift for Spyder and Gold Wing. Gets the bike some 25 inches off the ground. Also use a CAT 4500 lb scissor lift. Went with this because the ATV scissor jacks don't like to lift my AWD Hyundai.
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I sure do like that big blue stand. I'm a shop rat, and I know I'll be tinkering on the Spyder and keeping it maintained. I'm sure I'd get my money's worth from it, but dang they're expensive. The new Spyder will probably be my last bike. I'm 66 now, and hopefully this new F3 will be the one I keep. 2 wheels are out now. I enjoy being in the shop with some good tunes maintaining my machines. Thanks for your input.
Last edited by Peter Aawen; 06-17-2023 at 02:51 PM.
Reason: there... ;-)
I have a Craftsman motorcycle jack that I use on my RTL’s. It will lift it but you have to be very careful with its balance on the jack. You can lift it up fine but if you have to take the front tires off you better have the bike supported with 3 jack stands. These style of lifts aren’t really ideal for the Spyder for all maintenance. The 1500 pound lift capacity is overrated for its hydraulic cylinder actual power which can lead to a shorter than expected service life. I haven’t found any lift that is ideal and affordable to lift these heavy bikes with solid stability so be careful, go slowly and constantly check for balance. Lifting these 3-wheelers is dodgy and a great amount of care is required when working on a lifted Spyder to prevent the whole bike from tipping off the jack. These lifts raise the bike at an upward angle toward you and not true vertical so lowering it onto the jackstands has to be done with great care as the bike is lowered away from you. I’m a professional automotive technician with decades of experience but lifting these Spyders always gives me the heebee jeebees.
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Thanks for your evaluation. Yes I totally understand. When I used to lift my Nomad 1600 with the craftsman jack, I had to be careful (as you should), and there were some wobbly moments. The big blue is probably the answer, and it might find its way in my shop, because I know how often I will use it. I'm also not fond of balancing anything heavy like a F3 on a small platform. Trying to stabilize a machine in the event it gets out of hand is not in the cards anymore with my back in its current situation. I'm just going to wait to get the machine in my shop and then evaluate what I think is best.
This from the company,
The lift would come with the F3 mount set and the main lifting items that locate on the lift beam fits all models of Spyder it is simply the adjustable stabiliser bracket that is located near the pillar to hold the machine from moving left to right as it balances on the lifting points.
The latest F3S has a different mount required at this point (see the picture) and as yet we have been unable to acquire a Spyder to develop the bracket needed so the only option at this point in time is to use this setup and secure the Footboard mounting to the lift by means of a ratchet strap as this does ”Not” take and load in the lifting it is simply to hold the machine from rocking sideways, “A Stabiliser”!
Hopefully we will get to develop the part at some stage but cannot offer it at the moment.
Regards