One of the problems with finding a front tire for the Ryker is the rim width of only 4.5 inches. (PPA rims on Slingmods are a 5" rim). I have found only one tire that is a possible solution, the Achilles ATR-Economist 165/50R16.
Specs are All Season, V Rated (149mph), Load Range XL, Load Index 77 (908 lbs), UTQG 400AAA, rim widths 4"-6". Made in Indonesia. Very wide range of prices from $48 - $71.
They are .8" wider and .4" shorter in diameter than the OEM Kenda's, so you would probably have to do a fender delete. I think you could replace the running lights and turn signals with the TricLED Dual Color light strips (Gen2).
Now .8" doesn't seem that much wider until you look at them side by side. I believe the 165 is the same width that the F3 uses.
For some a fender delete would be an automatic no go, and it may be for me too.
On one hand the Kenda's have not been a bad tire for me, my ride with the BaJa Ron bar and end links is really rock solid even at high speeds. But, I do have the right tire wobble on sweeping left had turns, and I do notice a slight right hand tire deformity as I am rolling down the road.
So, for all you Spyder riders that have some experience with car tires, what are your thoughts?
I'm okay with using the OEM Kenda's for the front. They're more than decent for the Ryker. But I will be changing out the rear tire with a high performance substitute when the time comes.
I'm okay with using the OEM Kenda's for the front. They're more than decent for the Ryker. But I will be changing out the rear tire with a high performance substitute when the time comes.
I am quite pleased with my OEM front tires. I have 40,000 miles on my 2019 Rally and will be putting on my third rear tire this season but my front original tires still look amazingly good and certainly will make it through another season of another 15 or so thousand miles. I'm a happy camper!!
Incidentally, if you're interested, my 2nd rear tire was a Dunlop Direzza DZ102. It was fine but it's only going to get about 20000 miles. So my 3rd tire, which is in my garage, is a Forceum Hena. I'm looking to get more mileage out of this 10/32 tread depth all season tire.
I just purchased/installed a set of Achilles ATR-Economist 165/55R15 tires for my OEM F3S wheels. I have Vredestein's on my installed PPA wheels. Found one member here that is running the Achilles ATR-Economist and likes them. I won't know till spring..
2022 RT Sea To Sky
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The OEM 145/60R16 are such a tight fit on the Ryker, I thought for sure the 165/50R16 would rub the inside fender. But, you run that size and have no issues?
Currently Own: 2019 Ryker Rally
Previously Owned: 2019 F3 Spyder
The OEM 145/60R16 are such a tight fit on the Ryker, I thought for sure the 165/50R16 would rub the inside fender. But, you run that size and have no issues?
There will usually be some variation in size between different brands of tires, regardless of what the 'nominal size' on the sidewall might say.... but, that said, most 165/50R16's are a touch SMALLER in diameter than the OEM 145/60R16's (nominally, it's usually about 10mm) and because of the lower profile, while the 165/50's may be a little wider at the tread, that width is not being pushed up into the 'fender well' quite as much as you might think - so even if they are a little bit wider, it's not usually a major issue.... so they should fit fine.
And if you're concerned &/or you find the wider tires do juuust scrape on the fenders a little, that's generally fixed fairly easily by putting a washer or three between each of the fender arm brackets & the spot where they bolt onto the hub/spindle assy.
The OEM 145/60R16 are such a tight fit on the Ryker, I thought for sure the 165/50R16 would rub the inside fender. But, you run that size and have no issues?
there is now more space between the tire and the fender (which is better because of the cables inside !!) - they fit without any probles, there are many others using this size ..
much better brakes now, more grip in the curves !
Outlander fairing - Fox-shock - BajaRon Swaybar - Hankook tire/ back - 165/50 Imperial tires front & longer front shocks - GIVI Topase - Shad sidecases -heated grips - new seats
Incidentally, if you're interested, my 2nd rear tire was a Dunlop Direzza DZ102. It was fine but it's only going to get about 20000 miles. So my 3rd tire, which is in my garage, is a Forceum Hena. I'm looking to get more mileage out of this 10/32 tread depth all season tire.
I have a Forceum Hena on the rear of my Rally. I have been very satisfied with it. The grip i(particularly in the wet) is way better than the stock Kenda and at 20 psi the ride is much more comfortable.
I have a Forceum Hena on the rear of my Rally. I have been very satisfied with it. The grip i(particularly in the wet) is way better than the stock Kenda and at 20 psi the ride is much more comfortable.
Thanks so much for the input. And particular, thanks for the PSI info. I have been running 18PSI in my Dunlop
I'm a bit confused. I thought we were supposed to follow the tire pressure as listed on our Rykers? Is there a service bulletin where this was changed?
there is now more space between the tire and the fender (which is better because of the cables inside !!) - they fit without any probles, there are many others using this size ..
much better brakes now, more grip in the curves !
After going to four different shops, I found a shop that would mount the Achilles ATR-Economist 165/50R16 and they fit great. I did remove the clip that holds the wire to the running light, drill a small hole on the tab where the clip was attached and zip tied the wire. The clip did not touch the tire, but it was close.
Currently Own: 2019 Ryker Rally
Previously Owned: 2019 F3 Spyder
I'm a bit confused. I thought we were supposed to follow the tire pressure as listed on our Rykers? Is there a service bulletin where this was changed?
That's ONLY if you are still using the OE spec Kendas or one of their clones (Kanines, Arachnids, Vee Rubber... ) & not applicable if you are running car tires, which is what this thread is about!
If you are using a stronger & more capable car tire that meets or exceeds the load & speed rating specs of the Kendas etc, then you really don't want to use the Ryker's Placard pressures for those Kendas in the car tires - not if you value your kidneys, teeth fillings, and all those other important things like road holding, traction, handling, ride comfort, and safety on the road!
..... I did remove the clip that holds the wire to the running light, drill a small hole on the tab where the clip was attached and zip tied the wire. The clip did not touch the tire, but it was close.
I got a small piece of rubber under the fender and it damaged the cable and this (crazy !) clip - the 10A fuse of the complete VSS was blown, the Ryker had a black-out - no chance to find the problem or repair it on the highway - first time (after 60T miles on Spyder/Ryker) we came home on a trailer with our Can-am on the back .. I don't know if BRP changed this on the newer Models - I was not the only one with this problem!!
Last edited by Peter Aawen; 01-28-2022 at 07:59 AM.
Reason: Fixed quote display
Outlander fairing - Fox-shock - BajaRon Swaybar - Hankook tire/ back - 165/50 Imperial tires front & longer front shocks - GIVI Topase - Shad sidecases -heated grips - new seats
That's ONLY if you are still using the OE spec Kendas or one of their clones (Kanines, Arachnids, Vee Rubber... ) & not applicable if you are running car tires, which is what this thread is about!
If you are using a stronger & more capable car tire that meets or exceeds the load & speed rating specs of the Kendas etc, then you really don't want to use the Ryker's Placard pressures for those Kendas in the car tires - not if you value your kidneys, teeth fillings, and all those other important things like road holding, traction, handling, ride comfort, and safety on the road!