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2015 F3 not starting
Went to get on the Spyder this morning to ride to work. Rolled it out of the garage like I usually do, got dressed then went to start it. Dead as a door nail. I figured I haven't rode it for a while so put it on the Honda optima charger and went to work. I got home from work after about 5 hours and thought I would try and start it to get it back into the garage. Still did not start. So I let it charge some more. 7 o'clock game around and tried it again . It did not try to start but for a brief moment I did see VSS Fault flash across the screen. I have not done anything with it since in a long time and have ridden it about 2 weeks ago. The battery is not the original so I kind of not think it might not be that though I might be wrong. I think it might be the charger. I had it on the jetski where it stays on all the time when not riding and I did notice a few days ago that the Save battery was lit. maybe its not working like it should? Is there a way to check and maybe get it started without buying a new charger? Dontas think I can jump start it off my truck can I? Just looking for ideas. I can not get it back in the garage due to the brake being on and will not power up long enough to take it off. Can I try and jump it off with some cables and my truck without the truck running?
Thanks in advance.
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Very Active Member
Yeah you can jump it off but make sure the vehicle your using to jump it off is not running.
2017 F3 Limited in Intense Red Pearl
2008 Triumph Rocket (SOLD)
2002 Honda VTX 1800 C ( SOLD)
2014 Triumph Thunderbird Commander
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Very Active Member
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I connected to the truck battery with the truck not running and let it sit for a few minutes. Got it to come on enough to get the brake off so the wife and I could get it pushed back up into the garage. My Driveway is little steep so I had to let her help me. LOL. now Got to figure out what is going on. I have a feeling I may need another battery charger. Like I said this one stays on my jetski almost all year.
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Very Active Member
When using a car/truck battery to jump a bike, have everything connected except the positive lead to the bike's positive terminal. Touch the positive lead only when you are ready to hit the starter, then remove the lead as the engine starts. Car batteries have about twice the amps a bike battery does.
Ours is a red, black and chrome 2017 F3 Limited. Bought new in 2/2019. The avatar is my first bike back in 1952, a Simplex Servi-Cycle. Photo taken at the Barber Museum.
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by RICZ
When using a car/truck battery to jump a bike, have everything connected except the positive lead to the bike's positive terminal. Touch the positive lead only when you are ready to hit the starter, then remove the lead as the engine starts. Car batteries have about twice the amps a bike battery does.
Old wives tail. 12v is 12v. The bike will only consume as many amps as it needs. The larger battery will only supply more amps when needed. The volts are the same. Thing of volts as water pressure. The battery size is the size of the water tank.
You can jump a spyder from a car without problem. The difficulty is when these small AGM batteries fail, they often fail hard, not just weak. Jumping may not help.
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If the charger you used is like a Battery Tender it will not charge a completely dead battery. They have to have some charge to start working. So let your truck charge it a bit and try your charger again. Read the first part of this (http://www.chargingchargers.com/tuto...cognition.html).
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Got up this morning and the charger did not do anything. Had to work. Got back from work and said what the hell, put a jumper box on it for a real quick jump to start it. Got it started. Figured since it was running I would go and get some good gas and ride it little. When I got gas did not turn off the sypder cause I figured it would be dead if I did. Rode it for about 10 15 miles maybe. Got home pulled it in the garage and turned it off. Tried to start it again and it was dead. I figured the ride would of put little charge in it. The screen doesn't even try to come on. Im lost now. Got another battery charger/maitainer also. Put it on the Spyder and it is not charging it either. Im guessing the maintainer/charger needs little charge for it to work?
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Originally Posted by rbell0
If the charger you used is like a Battery Tender it will not charge a completely dead battery. They have to have some charge to start working. So let your truck charge it a bit and try your charger again. Read the first part of this ( http://www.chargingchargers.com/tuto...cognition.html).
Can I let my truck run while the jumper cables are on? How long should I leave them on and the truck running if I do this?
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Very Active Member
I was taught that the electricity / water analogy was: volts = volume, amps = pressure. Was I taught wrong?
Ours is a red, black and chrome 2017 F3 Limited. Bought new in 2/2019. The avatar is my first bike back in 1952, a Simplex Servi-Cycle. Photo taken at the Barber Museum.
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Originally Posted by RICZ
I was taught that the electricity / water analogy was: volts = volume, amps = pressure. Was I taught wrong?
Don't know I have read somewhere when I got the Spyder that you can not use a car battery to jump a Spyder that's why I am asking. When I used my truck last night to jump it it was not running and I left the cables on long enough for me to get the brake turned off so I could get the Spyder in the garage.
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by jcthorne
Old wives tail. 12v is 12v. The bike will only consume as many amps as it needs. The larger battery will only supply more amps when needed. The volts are the same. Thing of volts as water pressure. The battery size is the size of the water tank.
You can jump a spyder from a car without problem. The difficulty is when these small AGM batteries fail, they often fail hard, not just weak. Jumping may not help.
Interesting ..... the " rectifier " in the Spyder should prevent damage. However I don't think it was sized for what a car or truck Alternator might put out ..... maybe this isn't an issue ..... Mike
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This isn't that old of a battery. Plus I have been riding it all the way till about last week. I find it hard to believe that the battery is bad
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Ozzie Ozzie Ozzie
2013 RT Ltd Pearl White
Ryde More, Worry Less!
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I understand everything you are saying I guess. I just hate to have to buy another battery. The original one went dead on me 3 weeks after I bought the Spyder. Dealer didn't cover it.Said " Its a wear and tear item" Funny thing is the first Maintainer/charger that I have been using is usually on the jetski. I noticed earlier in the week that the lights were not correct on it but did not nothing about it. That battery is also doing the same thing the Spyder battery is doing its not that old of a battery either! and . Whats the chances of both these batteries not charging at the same time? Even though I think its is charging issue I will be getting another battery but not from the dealer.
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Very Active Member
Contact the battery's manufacturer. Be nice and polite and maybe they will take pity and help you with a new one.
Ours is a red, black and chrome 2017 F3 Limited. Bought new in 2/2019. The avatar is my first bike back in 1952, a Simplex Servi-Cycle. Photo taken at the Barber Museum.
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Very Active Member
Since it didn't even take a small charge while on the charger and on the ride my guess is a bad battery. They can short out internally and no amount of charging can bring them back. If your charger is one of the small 1.5 -2 amp models it can't bring back a dead battery. Leave the Spyder hooked to your non-running vehicle for a couple of hours and then try your charger. Since both your Jetski and Spyder show the same symptoms, I'd guess your charger is bad. Do you have a Volt/Ohm meter? If so put the charger on your truck and check the voltage with and without the charger on. Voltage should be over 13 V with it on. Do nit have the vehicle running when you do this. Good Luck
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by mini73
Got up this morning and the charger did not do anything. Had to work. Got back from work and said what the hell, put a jumper box on it for a real quick jump to start it. Got it started. Figured since it was running I would go and get some good gas and ride it little. When I got gas did not turn off the sypder cause I figured it would be dead if I did. Rode it for about 10 15 miles maybe. Got home pulled it in the garage and turned it off. Tried to start it again and it was dead. I figured the ride would of put little charge in it. The screen doesn't even try to come on. Im lost now. Got another battery charger/maitainer also. Put it on the Spyder and it is not charging it either. Im guessing the maintainer/charger needs little charge for it to work?
Sorry to say but that battery has failed. Time to replace.
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by RICZ
I was taught that the electricity / water analogy was: volts = volume, amps = pressure. Was I taught wrong?
You have it backwards. Volts is pressure, amps is flow rate.
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dont go buy the cheapest one you can find after all you get what you pay for [most times]
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by BLUEKNIGHT911
Interesting ..... the " rectifier " in the Spyder should prevent damage. However I don't think it was sized for what a car or truck Alternator might put out ..... maybe this isn't an issue ..... Mike
Voltage regulator on the bike only controls how much current the alturnator supplies to the battery. Maintains voltage. Which by the way is higher on Spyders than most cars (14.1 vs 13.6v).
Rectifier is the part of the circuit that changes the alternating current of the alternator into direct current to the battery. Its a configuration of diodes.
Neither of these have anything to do with the jump start or the vehicle at the other end of the jump cables. As long as the other end is 12v, there is no harm to the Spyder.
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by mini73
This isn't that old of a battery. Plus I have been riding it all the way till about last week. I find it hard to believe that the battery is bad
To quote Scotty, 'Its dead Jim'
I cannot tell you why or how it died but from the sequence you have described with the drive and then dead once shut off, its dead or there is a battery cable completely disconnected.
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Read this and remember a new battery has to be prepped properly so it will last. I have a battery load tester for small batteries if you are close enough. BRP found out years ago that early battery failure was mostly caused by not being properly prepped when it was sold.
https://www.yuasabatteries.com/resou...tery-gone-bad/
Also to do a load test you need to charge it with a regular charger not a Battery Tender till it is fully charged. I do agree with everyone that it is probably dead.
https://www.yuasabatteries.com/resou...p-start-guide/
This is also a good read.
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Thanks for the replies everyone. What might be good replacement battery for my F3? Dontas want really want to go with the dealer again. Prefer to buy locally. Would auto zone or some other place have a replacement?
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