Anyone changed their 1330 trans filter yet?

[BajaRon]

The shop manual mentions nothing about needing BUDS afterwards, and the job looks to be fairly straightforward. I'll do mine when it's due.

I've had a number of customers do their own HCM filter change without incident. I think it wise to start the engine and let it idle for a bit to be sure all the oil passages are filled and any air is vented from the system. Just like any oil change on any vehicle. More so on a dry sump system like the Spyder uses.

This gives you time to check for any leaks, etc. Do this, of course, before you button everything up and can no longer see if you have any leaks. But the way. Leaks are extremely rare and only occur when you've done something wrong. Which is also very rare.

[Wahrsuul]

My brother and I are tearing into it tomorrow morning, guess we'll find out. He's got an 05 'Wing, so we're used to the "acre of plastic" that has to be removed. I haven't ridden all week as I found a slight drip of brake fluid on the left wheel so we'll have to look at that as well. Hoping to get the HCM and oil change done tomorrow. Maybe the coolant as well if we can get to it.

[KX5062]

I too have done it at home without any BUDS issues. It's kind of a PITA, but it's not difficult.

[Wahrsuul]

I did mine yesterday, along with an oil and fuel filter change. (All from Ron's) Getting everything out of the way was more of an issue, but we managed.

Haven't had a chance to test the bike as we also (some might say stupidly) decided to change out the new left side saddle bag. That's turned out to be a MAJOR PITA. After getting it mostly back together, some of my taillights don't work now. So we've got to tear the back end apart and see where we went wrong.

[zuni]

I've seen 2 of these filters cut open, and pictures of a few more. They appear to be clean. Speculation is that you can go much further on this filter than the recommended 28,000 mile interval. This may be true. But gambling your HCM system on a maybe. Not so sure that's the best way to go. The HCM probably has some pretty close tolerance components for BRP to supply a dedicated filter to that function.

Totally agree with this gamble comment. It is the general crude build up that creates the issues with solenoids not so much any big chunks (which you hopefully never see). I have been adding spin on oil filters to my truck transmissions for years. Transmission filters used to be filters, today they are basically screens. Fact is most people ignore service on vehicle transmissions until there is a problem. Older vehicles didn't have the tight tolerances that new vehicles have today. Some argue if it helps but as I approach close to 1,000,000 miles across a couple of trucks I have yet to have a transmission problem. Cheap insurance like Ron points out.

CJ JAX

[Wahrsuul]

All back together, and we did about 100 miles, and everything is just fine. No issues shifting, and the Amsoil seems to have smoothed the engine even further.

[rich5006]

thanks for the info

[BajaRon]

Totally agree with this gamble comment. It is the general crude build up that creates the issues with solenoids not so much any big chunks (which you hopefully never see). I have been adding spin on oil filters to my truck transmissions for years. Transmission filters used to be filters, today they are basically screens. Fact is most people ignore service on vehicle transmissions until there is a problem. Older vehicles didn't have the tight tolerances that new vehicles have today. Some argue if it helps but as I approach close to 1,000,000 miles across a couple of trucks I have yet to have a transmission problem. Cheap insurance like Ron points out.

CJ JAX

I am interested in your truck oil filter (trans). I have about 40K on my F250 and I will be doing a fluid/filter change on it. But you're right. The new filters are usually no more than a screen. What filter system do you prefer?

[zuni]

This is the one I used Ron. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004XONTPM..._t1_B004XOPZV8 For where I was installing it the top ports worked best. You can find them with side ports if that is a better fit for you. I took the output line from the transmission that went to the cooler and instead ran the line to the filer housing. I took the output from the filter housing to the cooler. I usually run the first filter for 500 miles to get out the accumulated junk and then I swap at every oil change as the filters are cheap and I get to install a fresh 1/2 quart of fluid each time. I have never done a fluid flush as I figure I have exchanged about 7 quarts of fluid between transmission services.

CJ JAX

[BajaRon]

This is the one I used Ron. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004XONTPM..._t1_B004XOPZV8 For where I was installing it the top ports worked best. You can find them with side ports if that is a better fit for you. I took the output line from the transmission that went to the cooler and instead ran the line to the filer housing. I took the output from the filter housing to the cooler. I usually run the first filter for 500 miles to get out the accumulated junk and then I swap at every oil change as the filters are cheap and I get to install a fresh 1/2 quart of fluid each time. I have never done a fluid flush as I figure I have exchanged about 7 quarts of fluid between transmission services.

CJ JAX

I know we are hijacking this thread. But I think pretty much all that can be said about the SE6 HCM filter has been said. As for a pressure flush like they do at a Quickie-Lube. Or even at the dealership. I don't recommend them. Expensive and many times, actually detrimental to the trans. Instead, I do my own. After changing what is in the pan. I disconnect the return line from the cooler to the trans, run the engine until I get about 2 quarts out. Shut the engine off. Add an equal amount of new fluid to the transmission and repeat until I get good, clean fluid out of the return line. It usually only takes 2 quarts more than what the trans holds to get this done. I shift the trans into forward and reverse gears during the exercise to get as much of the old replaced with new as possible. Using the return line, I also get the cooler fluid changed. I've also talked several friends into doing it this way. It's always worked out really well. Especially for those 'Sealed' transmissions that can be such a bear to service.

I understand that you are always replacing some old with new. I'm glad it's working well for you.

[PaSpyderRyder]

I changed mine last summer and did not have Buds ........ no issues with it in the past year since I changed it out.

[El Dorado]

I did mine this summer, no buds and no issues at all

[Jetfixer]

I changed mine for the 28k service. It's not hard, but there are a couple of bolts that are a challenge to reach. Expect a bit of a mess, also. I also have BUDS. There is certainly a procedure that the computer follows to bleed air from the circuits. Is it necessary? The engineers that built the engine think so. A lot of the internet based engineers say it's not needed, but who knows for sure, right?

[BajaRon]

I changed mine for the 28k service. It's not hard, but there are a couple of bolts that are a challenge to reach. Expect a bit of a mess, also. I also have BUDS. There is certainly a procedure that the computer follows to bleed air from the circuits. Is it necessary? The engineers that built the engine think so. A lot of the internet based engineers say it's not needed, but who knows for sure, right?

Since I sell quite a few of these SE6 Trans filters and zero of my customers have had any issues without using BUDS. And we've herd no complaints from anyone here on Spyderlovers.com. I'd say the matter has gone beyond the 'Who Know's' stage and is pretty much settled. So, my question would be. Why does BRP say that you need BUDS to do this service? I'm not sure we'll ever get an answer to that one.

[CBXBob]

Changed myself 10,000 miles ago, ( a little early ). No buds , no air( I hope), no problems.

[Jetfixer]

Since I sell quite a few of these SE6 Trans filters and zero of my customers have had any issues without using BUDS. And we've herd no complaints from anyone here on Spyderlovers.com. I'd say the matter has gone beyond the 'Who Know's' stage and is pretty much settled. So, my question would be. Why does BRP say that you need BUDS to do this service? I'm not sure we'll ever get an answer to that one.

I bought my filter from you, Ron! My educated guess would be that since air can be compressed, the venting process done by BUDS is intended to prevent abnormal pressures building up within the valve body of the HCM and then getting "slugged" out, possibly causing either damage or accelerated wear on the HCM components. Also, compressed air in any hydraulic system can cause "foaming" of the fluid (oil in this case), which can continue through the hydraulic passages of the valve body until it gets back to one of the oil sumps to settle out. Personally, I don't leave air in brake or clutch systems, why leave it in an automatic transmission system?

[BajaRon]

I bought my filter from you, Ron! My educated guess would be that since air can be compressed, the venting process done by BUDS is intended to prevent abnormal pressures building up within the valve body of the HCM and then getting "slugged" out, possibly causing either damage or accelerated wear on the HCM components. Also, compressed air in any hydraulic system can cause "foaming" of the fluid (oil in this case), which can continue through the hydraulic passages of the valve body until it gets back to one of the oil sumps to settle out. Personally, I don't leave air in brake or clutch systems, why leave it in an automatic transmission system?

Thanks for the input. Very helpful.

[wd8ajj]

Local shop said as long as you see no filings in the oil can go 50K or more. Use GOOD full syn oil, Amsoil oe equiv. Follow regular oil and filter changes.

[El Dorado]

I think it would be a good idea to fill the HCM filter with oil before installing. The port is at the top of the filter and it should be easily done without making a mess. This would go a long way towards eliminating any air issues. Letting your engine idle for a minute or 2 after changing oil would also be a good idea. Pretty much a good idea with any oil service on any vehicle. Gives you a chance to inspect your work and check for any leaks. Though I have not had any customer experience any issues with this process. I am going to add these additional steps to my instruction sheet. Maybe overkill. But can't hurt.

Thanks for the input. Very helpful.

That seems like the way it should be done I did that when I changed mine.........

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

Since I sell quite a few of these SE6 Trans filters and zero of my customers have had any issues without using BUDS. And we've herd no complaints from anyone here on Spyderlovers.com. I'd say the matter has gone beyond the 'Who Know's' stage and is pretty much settled. So, my question would be. Why does BRP say that you need BUDS to do this service? I'm not sure we'll ever get an answer to that one.

WHY ???? … … Lawyers + CYA + it's helps to fund dealers ….. I did mine awhile back - No BUDS - No Dealer - No issues …… Mike

[PMK]

I bought my filter from you, Ron! My educated guess would be that since air can be compressed, the venting process done by BUDS is intended to prevent abnormal pressures building up within the valve body of the HCM and then getting "slugged" out, possibly causing either damage or accelerated wear on the HCM components. Also, compressed air in any hydraulic system can cause "foaming" of the fluid (oil in this case), which can continue through the hydraulic passages of the valve body until it gets back to one of the oil sumps to settle out. Personally, I don't leave air in brake or clutch systems, why leave it in an automatic transmission system?

Your brake or clutch system on a manual gearbox setup, neither are recirculating fluid and filtering it. Since the HCM filter is filtering oil that is recirculated constantly, any air in the system should self purge, including any small amount possibly trapped in closed ends of the system.

Your brakes, while essentially an open system, for the most part move fluid back and forth, not continuously flowing with use. I bring this up, not focused at you even though I quoted you, but just as general knowledge.

[jtoro1]

I have change my transmission filter twice the bike has 66K running fine no buds got mine from baja ron

[irvin48]

I changed the HCM filter myself, no BUDS. I did have shifting issues for about one or two miles but it cleared itself up.'

i had the same problems.cleared up soon, just like yours. thanks for all the info everyone !

[BajaRon]

i had the same problems.cleared up soon, just like yours. thanks for all the info everyone !

What procedure did you use? Did you let the engine idle for a few minutes before riding away? Did you shift into 1st and reverse and let it idle in both gears before riding away? Just curious because some experience this shifting issue. And others do not. I am thinking it might be due to a difference in the process used.

[irvin48]

just let it warm up for a few minutes. backed out of the shop, and slowly shifted the first 3 gears up an d down.
kinda had a mind of its own. went about 5 miles shifting up and down. back to normal after less than a mile.
i came back and let it idle for a minute with the dipstick out in case a bubble or 2 needed to escape.got over 400 miles since.