Most people 2013 and before that added the scoops had already taken off the two lower panels -one were you change the oil and on the other side - So the air flows around the engine and out the bottom or back. I never get over 4 bars on my 2012 RT even in 85-90 degree heat when I'm Moving and in the winter I have been down to 1 bar at times- Now that's cool?
So have you road tested it yet? I am wondering how it works without cutting away the body panels, which sounds like how you installed it.
THanks
Glove box seems far cooler so far. Still at 4 bars on temperature, but it is 90 degrees now. Side panels on legs are definitely cooler with the added insulation. Looks like the air flows along the back of engine and under seat out the back. So far do not think I have to open up the hole.
Glove box seems far cooler so far. Still at 4 bars on temperature, but it is 90 degrees now. Side panels on legs are definitely cooler with the added insulation. Looks like the air flows along the back of engine and under seat out the back. So far do not think I have to open up the hole.
Steve
That's good to know. I installed mine the same way this weekend, haven't had a chance to test drive. Cutting those holes seemed too daunting for me! I was hoping they would still function, and not start whistling or something.
Last edited by Spider-man; 07-17-2017 at 02:29 PM.
Looking into buying the Air Scoop kit for my 2014 RTL, I looked up the number here and the forums say BRP# 219800388 is what I need. Anyone know if these kits are still around and where I can order it from?
Wow! Installed the scoops without cutting the body panels. Amazing difference! The hot air that used to bake my crotch once the engine warmed up is now cool. The engine even runs cooler. Great cheap upgrade!!
The instructions say to use a spray paint can tube (like a WD40 tube) and some paint to mark the panel, once you have the scoop pressed against it tightly. I have a "dental tool" kit, I just located the best I could and put a poke in the paint. The fun part is after that, you have to go back and forth and guess where the actual drilled hole goes. I started with a 1/16" bit and guessed - all wrong. I used the dental tool to poke through the hole into the scoop to see how far off I was, then re-drilled. Once I got it, used the bigger drill bit. A couple times I had to file a smidge. I only installed 3 screws, one top, bottom and rear. I remembered after I was done (of course!) the trick of using lipstick on the holes, and pressing against the panels so I could actually see where the hole goes. Dunno if it would work, would have to be pro at pressing into place without smearing...
I just started in on this project and now I understand what this piece of advice is all about. Turns out there are 5 holes need to be drilled into the RT side panel (yes, the big one with the black vent on top near the mirrors!) to attach the new scoop to the RT. 3 of these are easy to get at and can be marked readily enough; the other two are 'blind' (i.e. the places where the holes need to be drilled are inaccessible and so the location needs to be 'marked' somehow so you know where to drill those holes after taking the scoop back off).
I went about that a bit differently; after the scoop was temporarily in place (using the lower screw from the removed air deflector), I placed some painter's tape along the edge of the scoop in the two places where the holes had to go. Then, I used a pencil to mark each hole location along the edge of the tape. After removing the scoop, I measured in 3/16" from the edge of the tape at the pencil mark location and drilled my pilot holes (3/32"). Sorry about the quality of the photo - I'll try to post a better one later.
You're right Mike. The BRP adjustable vents are a better option for the 14 as you can either direct air on you or away from you.
I'm with Mike and Ann on this one. Have the adjustable vents that allow you to direct air back on you as you ride. Keeps me cool when towing a trailer 2 up at 90 plus, and the temp never gets over half way at 107 in utah.
At 107 no matter what you do you will be hot.
Idling along towing the trailer in Zion national park at 107 the fan kicked in a few times, but the temp gauge never got over half way.
I would miss the air blowing on me, but to each his own.
when you remove the side tupperwares you will see them. sort of a rectanglish black smc/plastic/fiberglass panel with some holes in it. remove them, throw them away and install the steel brackets. they are sorta below the mirrors and run aft.
Can you describe what these acoustic panels look like, where located, etc? I'm in the middle of this air scoop install but don't have the written instructions that I guess the dealer gets but didn't come with the kit. Thanks.
PM me your email address and I'll forward the instructions and pictures.
You're right Mike. The BRP adjustable vents are a better option for the 14 as you can either direct air on you or away from you.
+1 I too, use the adjustable deflectors to keep cool. Living in MN, when the weather starts to turn cold, the heat from the front of the seat is not so objectionable.
I did the air scoop mod on my magnesium RTL, including sawing away the excess RT panel under the scoop. I also removed the acoustic panels and replaced them with the steel bars that come in the kit. Today I went for a 30 mile fast run up the nearby canyon in 87 degree temps. The glovebox is noticeably cooler; it didn't get hot or even warm. I can only assume that with the much improved airflow over the engine, the engine compartment itself is cooler also. Removing the acoustic panels gives me ready access to the oil filter.
For the cost of the kit, which is very well engineered and a relative bargain, and the easy install (once I got over my fear of cutting into the panels) I think this is a very useful mod and I've ordered another to install on the Cognac RTL.
I also like the way it looks on the bike. I think it provides incrementally better heat control over the cockpit area; not a silver bullet solution but a welcome improvement.
The above is the same reason I put them on my 2014 RTS...VERY happy with cooler glove box and the looks...I also eliminated the acoustic panels under the painted panels...larryd
Larry, I did the same to my 2012 RT last year and I am glad I did it.
I received the Air Scoops with the plastic templates for free but no instructions.
Thanks to the documents Doc Riverside sent to me no problems whit installation.
When I had the metal bars assembled and the panel in place I could see electric contacts between them.
So, I did some mod. to the panels to avoid water etc.
My only doubt is now the amount of water can enter when it rains throught the air scoops whe the Spyder will run.
I have a set will paint to match. And use them just for cosmetics
You may be doing yourself a dis-service. Read Mikes post above for the reason.
Jack
All my life I wanted to be somebody, now I realize I should have been more specific.
2019 Specialized E-Bike COMO 2.0
2018 Jeep Grand Cherokee Overland
2018 Tiffin Phaeton 37BH Motorhome
2015 BMW R1200R LC
2014 RTL SE6 Pearl White
2012 RT-622 trailer viper red
2014 Look 7x12 motorcycle trailer silver and black
2011 Polaris Ranger green
2013 GMC Yukon Denali XL silver oak
2016 Can Am Maverick
Got the two PDF's from Doc this morning. One has a step by step with detailed photos and steps to take. I had managed to find the original set of instructions for the '13 heat modification, but they were so poor it was difficult to make sense of what each step was. Hats off to Doc, I owe him a beer. Hopefully I will get this done this weekend.
2019 BMW C650GT, 2010 Spyder RT-S, 2009 BMW R1200RT,(sold) 2009 Honda Silverwing (Sold), 2009 Kawasaki 500 Vulcan (Sold)