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Active Member
F3T - Speaker and sound improvement ?
Hi all Spyder Riders,
Has anyone ever added or modified F3T's original speakers for something better?
I like the integrated radio and that I can stream music from my iPhone directly through the USB cable, but i'd like to improve the sound quality.
I was thinking about changing the front speakers or to add something in the rear (I don't have the BRP top case).
I I had something in the rear, will I need to purchase the BRP rear amplifier or can I add any after market one ?
Any comment or experience is appreciated as always !
Thanks
X-Grip Ram Mount Phone Holder, Lamonster Fog and driving lights, BRP Heated grip, Home made rear rack + Shad SH58X top case, BRP belt tensioner
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This may not answer your question....because I'm not sure if it's sound or just quality you are looking for.
Have you checked the audio options? I know on mine, I have an equalizer, and I can change intensity of sound as well.
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Very Active Member
I tried to change just the speakers on my F3t to coaxial and the sound was awful! Built in amp does not like anything but the included papers. One could add an after-market amp with hi level inputs, but lots of work involved. The larger bass OEM does not get full range output as far as I can tell (no highs). Stock radio is harsh to my ears, but not ready to dig into it because of the bastard sized enclosures and radio output.
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Stay tuned to this post!
I am currently researching a better sound upgrade. Stay Tuned!
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Originally Posted by Groove_DJ
I am currently researching a better sound upgrade. Stay Tuned!
I tried both types of plug n play ShowChrome 3 ohm speakers Goldwingers use, both were disappointing. Was actually a little impressed with the size of the magnets on the stock 2018 limiteds but still not good enough. Does anyone know... based on this expirament assuming stocks are 4 ohm. Have ordered in JBL GTO429s for front.... rear could easily accomodate larger speaker. i also want to get some mildew resistant insulation for behind front speakers.
I also tried a tweeter replacement up front but the lead wires in the way and was not ready to start cutting up...
Personally not looking for bassthumping tunes at 70 mph, would be satisfied to understand lyrics and detail at 45 mph... and keep install < hour
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I haven't done any upgrades to the stereo on the spyder, but the stock stereo on my Magnum is similar. It has low level outputs at the rear of the bike that requires a second factory amp to power rear speakers. For aftermarket upgrades, you can utilize the low level outputs and route it to an aftermarket amp. Arc Audio, Rockford Fosgate, Hog Wired, or similar motorcycle / marine grade amp to power aftermarket speakers. Using the stock head unit, you probably won't win any sound system competitions, but you will get better sound quality and be able to hear it above 45 mph.
Doing an install like this will limit you to a 2 channel in put. If you run a 2 channel output, it is not and issue. If you run a 4 channel output, you will not have the ability to fade front to rear. Only right to left balance.
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Very Active Member
CRAPPY SOUND
I solved this problem years ago .... for my 2014 RT ...My audio sounds FANTASTIC ....even at 80 mph ..... It's NOT the Radio ( ie head unit ) it's the speakers ( and you don't need an extra amp )................ Mike
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by BLUEKNIGHT911
I solved this problem years ago .... for my 2014 RT ...My audio sounds FANTASTIC ....even at 80 mph ..... It's NOT the Radio ( ie head unit ) it's the speakers ( and you don't need an extra amp )................ Mike
Gee. Thanks for all the details.
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Crappy sound
Originally Posted by Rattlebars
Gee. Thanks for all the details.
Hey rattlebars he is talking about the following - here is a quote from one of his older posts.
I did my 14 RT last year with GTO 528's and GTO 428's ( front -rear )..........they are not currently available except E-bay because they have been super-ceded........But they are fantastic ...they are 2 OHM which effectively doubles the power of the OEM radio.......Mine can be played at MAX volume without dis-tortion........but at that level they are just to loud unless you are at least 100 + feet away............the rears do need a home made trim ring because they are slightly smaller than stock ( which are a bastard size 4 3/4 inch )..................Right now they are selling for about $ 90 for all four......Mike
I put the smaller ones in my ST Ltd and it did make a difference. I have not tried anything like that on my F3T. Since, I have read this may not be that good of an idea depending on what ohm rating the amp is designed to run. Most car type speakers seem to be rated at 4 ohms. The idea as I understand it is that a 2 ohm speaker will put out twice the power from the same amp
Last edited by Gcclubs; 07-22-2018 at 08:42 PM.
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Originally Posted by Poseidon
I haven't done any upgrades to the stereo on the spyder, but the stock stereo on my Magnum is similar. It has low level outputs at the rear of the bike that requires a second factory amp to power rear speakers. For aftermarket upgrades, you can utilize the low level outputs and route it to an aftermarket amp. Arc Audio, Rockford Fosgate, Hog Wired, or similar motorcycle / marine grade amp to power aftermarket speakers. Using the stock head unit, you probably won't win any sound system competitions, but you will get better sound quality and be able to hear it above 45 mph.
Doing an install like this will limit you to a 2 channel in put. If you run a 2 channel output, it is not and issue. If you run a 4 channel output, you will not have the ability to fade front to rear. Only right to left balance.
There are low level outputs at the rear of the Spyder? That would be awesome.
@blueknight would not assume the new BRPConnect head unit has the same capabilities as the older head units, could be different class of amp etc. Anyone know if the '18 speakers are same as 17's... what i wouldnt do to rewind into a 2017 and watch that tach.
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Very Active Member
BETTER SOUND
Last edited by BLUEKNIGHT911; 07-22-2018 at 10:02 AM.
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Originally Posted by fraugher
There are low level outputs at the rear of the Spyder? That would be awesome.
@blueknight would not assume the new BRPConnect head unit has the same capabilities as the older head units, could be different class of amp etc. Anyone know if the '18 speakers are same as 17's... what i wouldnt do to rewind into a 2017 and watch that tach.
I haven't dug into the stereo system on the Spyder yet, But if it requires a second amp to power the speakers for the top case, it is amplifying a low level output.
Image above is from the top case installation instructions. Link below.
http://instructions.brp.com/content/...0898,219400859
Here is a link to the top case amp and speaker kit. There is an upload that has to be done to the stereo to activate the top case speakers. You may need that to activate the low level output. That is one of the things I'm not sure of.
https://can-am.brp.com/content/canam...ifier-kit.html
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Very Active Member
Thanks for the info!! Bookmarked this thread!
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Speaker Sizes
Rattlebars when you decide to pull the speaker grills let us know what sizes the existing speakers are. I know most are happy with the existing sound but I am inclined to see if it can be improved with better quality speakers as well. Keep use posted as you move forward
Originally Posted by Rattlebars
Thanks for the info!! Bookmarked this thread!
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Very Active Member
None of the speakers mentioned here will fit methinks. This is preliminary but here are the dimensions of the F3-T fronts. As you can see, the "woofer" is 4.5" and the "tweeter" 2.25". The JBL 528 has a cutout requirement of 4.7" so I do not really think the 5s will fit, The 428 probably will but I cannot find the hole dimensions for those and the ones I did find were too deep. The tweeter is 2.5" but the biggest restriction on that is the depth as there is no "hole" to worry about but depth is restricted. OEM speakers seem to be 3 ohms each.
Again, I have tried to mount 5" coax speakers shallow mount Alpines @ 4 ohms in the woofer hole, but there seems to NOT be a full range of sound going to the woofers as the tweeter in that coax was dead silent. Tweeters to mount can be found though I have not looked too hard for them. I used the Alpines in my >GL1800< with success.
I'm firmly convinced that the harshness of sound comes mainly from the tweeters so I will start there. Will journey through this during the coming months and once I get a system that I find satisfactory I will post on it.
tweeter.jpgwoofer.jpgspeak04.jpgwires-stereo.jpg
Last edited by Rattlebars; 07-23-2018 at 01:18 PM.
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Very Active Member
WIL 5.25 FIT ? ? ?
Originally Posted by Rattlebars
None of the speakers mentioned here will fit methinks. This is preliminary but here are the dimensions of the F3-T fronts. As you can see, the "woofer" is 4.5" and the "tweeter" 2.25". The JBL 528 has a cutout requirement of 4.7" so I do not really think the 5s will fit, The 428 probably will but I cannot find the hole dimensions for those and the ones I did find were too deep. The tweeter is 2.5" but the biggest restriction on that is the depth as there is no "hole" to worry about but depth is restricted. OEM speakers seem to be 3 ohms each.
Again, I have tried to mount 5" coax speakers shallow mount Alpines @ 4 ohms in the woofer hole, but there seems to NOT be a full range of sound going to the woofers as the tweeter in that coax was dead silent. Tweeters to mount can be found though I have not looked too hard for them. I used the Alpines in my >GL1800< with success.
I'm firmly convinced that the harshness of sound comes mainly from the tweeters so I will start there. Will journey through this during the coming months and once I get a system that I find satisfactory I will post on it.
tweeter.jpgwoofer.jpgspeak04.jpgwires-stereo.jpg
Maybe I just have a large pair of B *lls , but I enlarged the hole for the rear speakers ( on an RT ) by making THE HOLE 4 5/8 ths inches with a DREMEL. This is the Max you can go considering the plastic surround available.....And all the speakers need to be 2 Ohms, otherwise you will only notice the BAD speakers because they will go south First ( like the OEM's ).....jmho ..... Mike ......PS I don't have an extra or up-graded Amp for my system .... But it can play loud ( and clear enough ) to actually HURT your hearing.
Last edited by BLUEKNIGHT911; 07-23-2018 at 03:26 PM.
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Very Active Member
Model years.
For those of you that are reading this very good discussion. For the most part it applies to F3T 2017 and older. The audio system is very different in the 2018s. There is not a separate radio module. It is part of the gauge. There is only one amplifier module and it drives all 6 speakers.
Last edited by billybovine; 07-23-2018 at 07:34 PM.
2018 F3 LIMITED
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by BLUEKNIGHT911
Maybe I just have a large pair of B *lls , but I enlarged the hole for the rear speakers ( on an RT ) by making THE HOLE 4 5/8 ths inches with a DREMEL. This is the Max you can go considering the plastic surround available.....And all the speakers need to be 2 Ohms, otherwise you will only notice the BAD speakers because they will go south First ( like the OEM's ).....jmho ..... Mike ......PS I don't have an extra or up-graded Amp for my system .... But it can play loud ( and clear enough ) to actually HURT your hearing.
THX BK. I will be modifying my F3 opening as well. I did so on my '02 GL1800 to insert DB501s and I also added them to my '06 in the rear while DB561's would fit up front with a little modification. >CLICK ME< I'm ordering the 528 and if they don't fit the F3, I need new speakers in the rear doors of my LX470 which are 5.25".
There is room to add a spacer to insert the 4.7" inner mount, but the issue is still the depth of the "midrange" unless there is a full spectrum audio to the "woofer" and the midrange can be eliminated.
wooferbox.jpg
Last edited by Rattlebars; 07-24-2018 at 01:07 PM.
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Very Active Member
speaker mounting
Originally Posted by Rattlebars
THX BK. I will be modifying my F3 opening as well. I did so on my '02 GL1800 to insert DB501s and I also added them to my '06 in the rear while DB561's would fit up front with a little modification. >CLICK ME< I'm ordering the 528 and if they don't fit the F3, I need new speakers in the rear doors of my LX470 which are 5.25".
There is room to add a spacer to insert the 4.7" inner mount, but the issue is still the depth of the "midrange" unless there is a full spectrum audio to the "woofer" and the midrange can be eliminated.
wooferbox.jpg
.....I'm guessing that the pic is where you will be mounting the 528's ????? ..... My RT was easier because the speaker mounted to a FLAT surface .... the 528 magnet will fit in yourdash hole .... But I'm thinking that you will need to add a flat plate to what you have - using your mounting holes , then make new holes in that plate to match up with the speaker .... Having an Airtight speaker box/enclosure is not worth the effort , IMHO you would gain almost nothing in the sound change and the difficulty would be LARGE .... I would look at his members MOD / album page " beadaholic " She did a video and nice pics for Her RT swap ... I know it's not the same but might help .... Her ( 508c's ) are the same size as the 528's ......... also I wouldn't give to much concern about Base or Mid-range ..... The size of the cone is the determining factor for that and you / we are limited to our speaker size choices ... Also you aren't listening to this system in your living room ... Sound PEFECTION on a Motorcycle is not possible - I don't care how much you spend ..... It's a compromise, but those JBL's will make a HUGH improvement ..... There are quite a few members here who did the JBL swap and were / are very happy they did it ..... If you need any otyher info you can PM me ..... Mike
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Very Active Member
DON'T GET 528'S OR 428'S FOR THE F3! tHE STOCK STERO WILL NOT DRIVE THEM.
Preliminary testing, the stock radio will not drive the big magnets. All they did was rattle when I tried to hook them up. I have a Rockford Fosgate 200 watt 2 channel amp with high level inputs which I will try once I mount the 528;s in my LX470 back doors. Again, i'm reasonably sure the woofers do not get full range and the crossover is mounted in the unit itself on teh F3.
BK - I was going to add 1/2" to 3/4" spacer to give room to mount them. There seems room to do so. Especially if you can delete the tweeters
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Very Active Member
NOR ENOUGH POWER
Originally Posted by Rattlebars
DON'T GET 528'S OR 428'S FOR THE F3! tHE STOCK STERO WILL NOT DRIVE THEM.
Preliminary testing, the stock radio will not drive the big magnets. All they did was rattle when I tried to hook them up. I have a Rockford Fosgate 200 watt 2 channel amp with high level inputs which I will try once I mount the 528;s in my LX470 back doors. Again, i'm reasonably sure the woofers do not get full range and the crossover is mounted in the unit itself on teh F3.
BK - I was going to add 1/2" to 3/4" spacer to give room to mount them. There seems room to do so. Especially if you can delete the tweeters
.... I think something is not quite right with your install ......2 Ohm speakers draw HALF the power that 4 Ohm ( the OEM speakers ) do ...... To the best of my knowledge Speaker Magnets ( or any rare earth ie. Molybdenum magnets ) don't use / draw any power at all, they are self magnetized .......... All OEM car radio's ( the basic ones in all cars ) are approx. 18 watts out-put .....JBL would have gone out of business a long time ago if they didn't work ....... jmho .... Mike
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Originally Posted by BLUEKNIGHT911
....2 Ohm speakers draw HALF the power that 4 Ohm ( the OEM speakers ) do ......
Absolutely, positively, totally WRONG.
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by BLUEKNIGHT911
......2 Ohm speakers draw HALF the power that 4 Ohm ( the OEM speakers ) do ......
lower ohm rating the more power they draw hence 2 ohm speakers will draw twice the power that 4 ohm speakers will. I don't think the F3 stereo is up to it.
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Very Active Member
OHM's etc.
Last edited by BLUEKNIGHT911; 07-27-2018 at 05:32 PM.
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Originally Posted by BLUEKNIGHT911
..I think you and " Easy Rider " need to Google what an Ohm is and what it Causes ....
I've been an Electronics Engineering Tech for over 50 years.
I KNOW what an ohm is....and I know what impedance is.
Somebody here needs to stop pretending to be an expert in things that they are NOT........but it isn't me.
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