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Very Active Member
As a person who has used Kenda's (forced to by dealer) since day one (2008) and on five different 's, and almost 140,000 Kenda miles...
I consistently get 15,000 miles on the rears, I get 20,000 miles plus on the fronts.
Only exception was the 2014 "softer" compound which gave me 8,900 on the rear on my 2014 RT.
Currently Owned: 2019 F3 Limited, 2020 F3 Limited: SOLD BOTH LIMITEDS in October of 2023.
Previously : 2008 GS-SM5 (silver), 2009 RS-SE5 (red), 2010 RT-S Premier Editon #474 (black) 2011 RT A&C SE5 (magnesium) 2014 RTS-SE6 (yellow)
MY FINAL TALLY: 7 Spyders, 15 years, 205,500 miles
IT HAS BEEN A LONG, WONDERFUL, AND FUN RIDE.
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Very Active Member
"Which shows that either we are ALL brilliantly safe ryders all of the time, or that our Spyders' Nannies DO actually work fine with any of those automotive tires that meet or exceed the tire placard specs!! Now which of those do you reckon is more likely?? " Peter Aawen
There is not a doubt in my mind that I fall into the brilliantly safe ryder catagory all the time.
Happy TRAils/NSD
Paul
2012 RT L
AMA 25 years Life Member
TRA
PGR
Rhino Riders Plate #83
Venturers #78
TOI
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e
I fall somewhere near the pile of "lucky idiots"...
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by Ben Burped
You have really understated just how much is involved in removing the rear tire. I am finishing up this project and I was overwhelmed at how much had to come out and be disassembled. Just getting the wheel assembly out required a 36 MM socket and a 36 MM wrench. I removed the belt guard which was a two man project for the two lower bolts. Then figuring out how to remove the center hub from the wheel was a nightmare. I finally figured out to use a short, flexible head ratchet with a socket to hold the bolts that hold the hub to the wheel. Torqueing the hub back in was a challenge in itself. Getting that heavy assembly back up in the air and the axle in is a two man project too. I then decided to get my rear wheel going straight and have the belt stay in the middle of the sprocket. I had to adjust the right adjuster bolt 6 and 1/4 turns for the belt to stay away from the side of the sprocket. Apparently whoever set up the rear wheel didn't know what they were doing. I'm going to check the belt with my sonic meter and torque the axle. Thank God it's almost over.
Go to finless' video on You Tube on removing the the rear wheel without disturbing the belt tension or alignment. The longest part when I did this was raising the spyder off the ground and driving to the tire shop to have them do the work. I didn't go thru near that amount of effort that you did and I was able to do it alone. So far that R&R has survived 25,000 miles. I am truly sorry that you had such a tussel getting your tire off. There is nothing more aggravating,frustrating,or angering then a job that wont go well.
Happy TRAils/NSD
Paul
2012 RT L
AMA 25 years Life Member
TRA
PGR
Rhino Riders Plate #83
Venturers #78
TOI
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Originally Posted by UtahPete
Name the dealer, so we have some useful information at least.
These dealers read these forums and I'm not a big fan of making enemies with people I may need in the future. Therefore, the dealer will remain anonymous...
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by pegasus1300
Go to finless' video on You Tube on removing the the rear wheel without disturbing the belt tension or alignment. The longest part when I did this was raising the spyder off the ground and driving to the tire shop to have them do the work. I didn't go thru near that amount of effort that you did and I was able to do it alone. So far that R&R has survived 25,000 miles. I am truly sorry that you had such a tussel getting your tire off. There is nothing more aggravating,frustrating,or angering then a job that wont go well.
The first one is always the toughest, Paul....you have your 2 36mm spanners, only to find that they are nowhere near strong enough to break the 150fr/lbs of the post 2012 models (Finless’ axle was only 80ft/lbs).......off the the auto tools shop. You then get the wheel off and find it has a damaged o-ring, which requires a trip to a bearings shop because it’s too big for auto shops to carry. 200km round trip. Etc etc etc. Then your knees/hips start to wear out and you wonder if you’ll be able to do the next change......but you don’t have a dealer who will do it for you......do you go back to Kenda?
Pete
Harrington, Australia
2021 RT Limited
Setup for Tall & Big.... 200cm/6'7", 140kg/300lbs, 37"inleg.
HeliBars Handlebars
Brake rubber removed to lower pedal for easier long leg/Size 15 EEEEW boot access.
Ikon (Aussie) shocks all round.
Russell Daylong seat 2” taller than stock (in Sunbrella for Aussie heat & water resistance)
Goodyear Duragrip 165/60 fronts (18psi) - provides extra 1/2” ground clearance.
Kenda Kanine rear.
2021 RT Limited , Brake pedal rubber removed for ease of accessing pedal with size 15 boots. Red
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Ozzie Ozzie Ozzie
Originally Posted by Peteoz
......but you don’t have a dealer who will do it for you......do you go back to Kenda?
Pete
Nope!! Nothing so silly!!
You just ask around your local bike shops or amongst the local home spanner-spinners; there's almost certainly going to be someone nearby who'll do it for you or help you do it, either for some cash or maybe just for the pleasure of sharing an interesting tipple?!? Then there's always friends - my friends have been very generous with their help, and they always seem to jump at the opportunity to lend a hand if either my wife (the Chef) or my daughter (the Pattisierre) has been baking! But now the word is out that I might need a hand every now & then, I've even got the local 'Men's Shed' asking if they can come around to help me do some of the regular maintenance stuff or the 'special jobs' that always need to get done, just for the pleasure of working on different machines &/or to have a go at using my tools (I got lotsa old & interesting tools here!) The Men's Shed are a great bunch, there's a couple of retired auto engineers, a few old mechanics, a retired obstetrician, and who knows what the others used to do that can add skills & experience to the mix - but they are all more than willing to put in some time helping me do the stuff I can't anymore! And there's lotsa repeat offers to lend a hand too, so I can't be too much of a slave driver!? Hmmm, might hafta work on that a bit?!
2013 RT Ltd Pearl White
Ryde More, Worry Less!
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by Peter Aawen
Nope!! Nothing so silly!!
You just ask around your local bike shops or amongst the local home spanner-spinners; there's almost certainly going to be someone nearby who'll do it for you or help you do it, either for some cash or maybe just for the pleasure of sharing an interesting tipple?!? Then there's always friends - my friends have been very generous with their help, and they always seem to jump at the opportunity to lend a hand if either my wife (the Chef) or my daughter (the Pattisierre) has been baking! But now the word is out that I might need a hand every now & then, I've even got the local 'Men's Shed' asking if they can come around to help me do some of the regular maintenance stuff or the 'special jobs' that always need to get done, just for the pleasure of working on different machines &/or to have a go at using my tools (I got lotsa old & interesting tools here!) The Men's Shed are a great bunch, there's a couple of retired auto engineers, a few old mechanics, a retired obstetrician, and who knows what the others used to do that can add skills & experience to the mix - but they are all more than willing to put in some time helping me do the stuff I can't anymore! And there's lotsa repeat offers to lend a hand too, so I can't be too much of a slave driver!? Hmmm, might hafta work on that a bit?!
Looks like I go back to Kenda then. I have neither in house chef, in house pattisier, antique or unusual tools, or friends........and the Men’s Shed is full of old farts. I won’t be joining the Men’s Shed until I give up lawn bowls, and I haven’t even taken up bowls yet !
Pete
Harrington, Australia
2021 RT Limited
Setup for Tall & Big.... 200cm/6'7", 140kg/300lbs, 37"inleg.
HeliBars Handlebars
Brake rubber removed to lower pedal for easier long leg/Size 15 EEEEW boot access.
Ikon (Aussie) shocks all round.
Russell Daylong seat 2” taller than stock (in Sunbrella for Aussie heat & water resistance)
Goodyear Duragrip 165/60 fronts (18psi) - provides extra 1/2” ground clearance.
Kenda Kanine rear.
2021 RT Limited , Brake pedal rubber removed for ease of accessing pedal with size 15 boots. Red
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Ozzie Ozzie Ozzie
I didn't JOIN the Men's Shed Pete, my Physio told one of them I might need a hand cos mine were out of action after the last bout of surgery, so around they came to help!! And now that they've discovered that there's often nice food here, and that there's always interesting tools & old bits of kit to play with, maybe an engine or two to strip down or rebuild, or if they are really lucky, a vehicle that needs a major suspension re-design & refit, it's like trying to keep starving rabbits outta the unfenced vege patch!!
But if it's a matter of getting a hand or you'll hafta revert to Kendas, just work out the milage remaining on your current tires & plan a road trip in time to get them changed..... We'll put you up here for a few nights & there's a local tire place or three nearby, so you should be able to source just about any tire you want, and if I'm not up to it & none of my friends are around to help remove & refit the wheels, I can always get the blokes from the Men's Shed to come & do some supervised labour!
Last edited by Peter Aawen; 04-15-2018 at 03:37 AM.
2013 RT Ltd Pearl White
Ryde More, Worry Less!
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Actually, if I am recalling correctly, manufactures indeed CAN SPECIFY EXACTLY what part to use to maintain the vehicles they manufacture.
HOWEVER, in this case they MUST provide those parts FREE OF CHARGE!!!
Requiring a specific item to be used as a replacement part is referenced as tie-in sales, which are 'generally' not allowed but may be in certain circumstances. Now, if BRG hasn't gotten this waiver, it means they don't have a case to make to the FTC that only Kenda has the knowledge about how to make tires for Spyders, and therefore don't have a case to make with the consumer.
Although tie-in sales provisions generally are not allowed, you can include such a provision in your warranty if you can demonstrate to the satisfaction of the FTC that your product will not work properly without a specified item or service. If you believe that this is the case, you should contact the warranty staff of the FTC's Bureau of Consumer Protection for information on how to apply for a waiver of the tie-in sales prohibition.
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SpyderLovers Sponsor
Lamont of Lamonster Garage has a very good easy to follow video on
removing and replacing the real wheel on a Spyder.
I did not find it to be much different than removing the rear wheel
from my Harley or GoldWing.
Look for the video or call Lamont and he can tell yo where to find it.
Dave
Originally Posted by Ben Burped
You have really understated just how much is involved in removing the rear tire. I am finishing up this project and I was overwhelmed at how much had to come out and be disassembled. Just getting the wheel assembly out required a 36 MM socket and a 36 MM wrench. I removed the belt guard which was a two man project for the two lower bolts. Then figuring out how to remove the center hub from the wheel was a nightmare. I finally figured out to use a short, flexible head ratchet with a socket to hold the bolts that hold the hub to the wheel. Torqueing the hub back in was a challenge in itself. Getting that heavy assembly back up in the air and the axle in is a two man project too. I then decided to get my rear wheel going straight and have the belt stay in the middle of the sprocket. I had to adjust the right adjuster bolt 6 and 1/4 turns for the belt to stay away from the side of the sprocket. Apparently whoever set up the rear wheel didn't know what they were doing. I'm going to check the belt with my sonic meter and torque the axle. Thank God it's almost over.
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Very Active Member
You know Pete there is nothing wrong with running the oem tire.Lots do and get miles of smiles from their. So just go ahead and have the dealer put the new tire on it and enjoy and stop stressing over It. There are too many roads and too little time as it is.
Happy TRAils/NSD
Paul
2012 RT L
AMA 25 years Life Member
TRA
PGR
Rhino Riders Plate #83
Venturers #78
TOI
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by pegasus1300
You know Pete there is nothing wrong with running the oem tire.Lots do and get miles of smiles from their . So just go ahead and have the dealer put the new tire on it and enjoy and stop stressing over It. There are too many roads and too little time as it is.
I like this post. But, isn't it great knowledge to hear every week that some BRP dealer won't install an aftermarket tire. I mean, this is the first I've heard about it. We've got to keep all the new members up to date. This should be one of those stickies you see on the Spyder General Discussion forum-
Some BRP Dealers won't install aftermarket tires
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Very Active Member
I've read several posts in this thread where people put car tires on motorcycles.
That's a whole other situation. Motorcycles have profiles that are rounded because two wheelers lean.
The Spyder is a totally different creation planted firmly in the vertical position.
Car tires make so much more sense.
I'll be going to Netzley before I go to Spyderquest this year.
If it ain't broke, don't break it.
IBA #47122
2020 RT Limited Asphalt Grey
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Very Active Member
Car Tires on Motorcycles
Originally Posted by ThreeWheels
I've read several posts in this thread where people put car tires on motorcycles.
That's a whole other situation. Motorcycles have profiles that are rounded because two wheelers lean.
The Spyder is a totally different creation planted firmly in the vertical position.
Car tires make so much more sense.
I'll be going to Netzley before I go to Spyderquest this year.
A fair number of GoldWing & other cruiser owners have put auto tires on their REAR wheels ...........and have Gotten away with doing so ..... Mtc. wheels are similar to car rims ( which are " J " type ) ....... but they are not a perfect match .... so there is ahigher risk of failure ..... Spyder wheels Are J type in shape ....It's even stamped on the Kenda tires " must be used on a " J " type rim " ...................Mike
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I've run car tires on two wings and an FJR1300. They work great on the Wing and last around 20k. On the Yamaha it didn't feel as good. To the best of my knowledge there have been no tire related failures
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by pegasus1300
You know Pete there is nothing wrong with running the oem tire.Lots do and get miles of smiles from their . So just go ahead and have the dealer put the new tire on it and enjoy and stop stressing over It. There are too many roads and too little time as it is.
Hahaha, thanks Paul. I know where you’re coming from, but really, I’m not stressed. But I am also not comfortable running a rear Kenda with 330lbs of rider, 140lbs of passenger, plus incidentals and luggage for around 500 lbs of load. This is the same reason I swapped the stock F3-L two up shock out to prevent bottoming. I do realise that many are quite happy with the Kenda, and that’s great.....I’m just not one of them, as the Kuhmo felt so much better to me from day one.
Pete
Harrington, Australia
2021 RT Limited
Setup for Tall & Big.... 200cm/6'7", 140kg/300lbs, 37"inleg.
HeliBars Handlebars
Brake rubber removed to lower pedal for easier long leg/Size 15 EEEEW boot access.
Ikon (Aussie) shocks all round.
Russell Daylong seat 2” taller than stock (in Sunbrella for Aussie heat & water resistance)
Goodyear Duragrip 165/60 fronts (18psi) - provides extra 1/2” ground clearance.
Kenda Kanine rear.
2021 RT Limited , Brake pedal rubber removed for ease of accessing pedal with size 15 boots. Red
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