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Unless the cable is starting to break and unravel, the travel will be the same every time. I doubt it's different than before, you'd probably break the key before the cable. I had this exact problem with the trunk. The latch plate hung on the pin and wouldn't move quite far enough. A little lubrication solved it. Being the tiniest bit out of adjustment can cause the problem, too, especially a fraction of an inch to far in the direction the latch plate opens. Hangs up easily! Sorry, don't know of a locking gas cap to fit. Another solution is Dzus fasteners for the appropriate body panels, just in case you have to get to the cable quickly again sometime
Thanks for the tips- I'll give it a try.
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Sorry, I should have been more specific. I do not have a Corbin seat, just the stock one. I removed the post because I also had problems releasing the seat at the gas station. I removed the latching post and now on windy days the seat will be in the up (unlatched) position sometimes when I return to it.
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Originally Posted by spyderbitten
Sorry, I should have been more specific. I do not have a Corbin seat, just the stock one. I removed the post because I also had problems releasing the seat at the gas station. I removed the latching post and now on windy days the seat will be in the up (unlatched) position sometimes when I return to it.
Now this makes sense. If you remove the latch and leave the piston it wouldn't take much to get the seat up. I could see the wind doing this.
Shop Ph: 423-609-7588 (M-F, 8-5, Eastern Time)
Only SLOW people have to leave on time...
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Very Helpful Member
Originally Posted by spyderbitten
Sorry, I should have been more specific. I do not have a Corbin seat, just the stock one. I removed the post because I also had problems releasing the seat at the gas station. I removed the latching post and now on windy days the seat will be in the up (unlatched) position sometimes when I return to it.
I guess the best thing for you to do is to remove the seat piston and put some type of prop rod in it's place.
Former Happy Spyder Owner
Just decided it was time to move onto other things.
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This is why God made industrial strength Velcro. I got the BRP Comfort Seat and after inslallation there was no way in this world the pin would align with receptacle. I took the pin out, picked out an appropriate spot
on the frame and applied the velcro. Works like a champ and is much more convenient
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SpyderLovers Sponsor
Originally Posted by barb36jack31
This is why God made industrial strength Velcro. I got the BRP Comfort Seat and after inslallation there was no way in this world the pin would align with receptacle. I took the pin out, picked out an appropriate spot
on the frame and applied the velcro. Works like a champ and is much more convenient
Sounds like a fix made in heaven!
Shop Ph: 423-609-7588 (M-F, 8-5, Eastern Time)
Only SLOW people have to leave on time...
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I have the Corbin. 1st Install I probably didn't align it right and broke the pin right out of the fiberglass. I returned it to Corbin (through my dealership), and got my seat back within 3 weeks. The 2nd install I took a little more time, and aligned it correctly.
When I need to open it, I need to put a bit of pressure on the seat when I turn the key. I know now that my seat isn't sliding back and forth as I take turns. I think I installed it the first time too loose and the rocking motion might have broke the pin.
I have the original seat shock installed on the Corbin. The seat stays up while I refill. I may or may not have posted this berfore.
This post is informative and in no way should be viewed as whining. I thoroughly enjoy the bike and plan to keep it.
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When I picked up my spyder the tech told me that the cable was
fractured and that was what caused the problem. They ordered
a new one and will put it on next week. Still not sure if I want
to use it....may try the velcro or maybe switch pins
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Ahhhh... "The Classics"...
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I had a problem , the seat would not release , when using the key. Discovered , after many adjustments , that the spring was weak. Brought a spring and replaced it. Works great now !
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Forgot to mention , I also shortened the cable by adding a notch clam ( used to hold errors in place on a bow ) just before the end of the cable .
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Very Active Member
I also pulled the pin when I installed the Corbin's on both 's. I also removed the piston that raises the seat. My Corbin's have the gas door, so there is no need to raise the seat to fill the tank. I don't keep anything valuable under the seat, so have never had anything stolen.
RE: Key in the Spyder. I left the key in one Spyder parked in the front row of a popular hotel (lots of cars, etc.) and it was still sitting there in the morning. Not a common practice for me, but also something I don't worry about.
EDIT: Drats, burned by the old post routine--AGAIN.
Currently Owned: 2019 F3 Limited, 2020 F3 Limited: SOLD BOTH LIMITEDS in October of 2023.
Previously : 2008 GS-SM5 (silver), 2009 RS-SE5 (red), 2010 RT-S Premier Editon #474 (black) 2011 RT A&C SE5 (magnesium) 2014 RTS-SE6 (yellow)
MY FINAL TALLY: 7 Spyders, 15 years, 205,500 miles
IT HAS BEEN A LONG, WONDERFUL, AND FUN RIDE.
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But sometimes it's good to go back and re-read an old favorite; just for the memories!
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Very Active Member
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Active Member
lets see, where is a "dead horse" when you need one? I removed my pin as well, and the piston, to hold the seat while fueling lift the seat hard right the handlebar, the seat now rests on the bar. to secure your spyder, hard right your bar and lock it the seat cannot be lifted as the bar is in the way, tah dah!!!
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I took my pin off just today.The jam nut and nut were just finger tight.If you are going to leave your pin on,you might want to check and make sure they are tight.
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Well..!!
if you line it up and adjust it add some lube it will work fine. If you doubt it or no longer trust it remove the pin and be done with it...good luck..!!
2012 RS sm5 , 998cc V-Twin 106hp DIY brake and park brake Classic Black
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