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Need help. Limp home mode
Hi all. I just got a new to me 2015 RT-S SE6, No problems with it on the drive back to Iowa from North Carolina other than I lost power to my heated gear plug. I checked all the fuses finding no problems yet. Has to be further up the line somewhere that I haven't gotten to yet.
Now to the problem. After putting it all back together, I went to go ride it to a friends and got the limp home mode warnings, check engine light, tow to dealer light, etc. I disconnected the battery for a half an hour and put it back together. Still have the same issue. Any ideas?
It ran fine this morning. No issues. Can't believe I could have done anything by just checking the fuses but obviously I must have.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you
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Very Active Member
Does your Spyder have any aftermarket electrical accessories on it like LED lighting, power outlets, etc.? These can sometimes cause a Spyder to throw codes & go into Limp Mode. If you have any such accessories, you may want to disconnect them all & go back to stock to determine what the root of the problem is. You mentioned that your heated gear plug stopped working, and that you could not find a blown fuse. That could be the source of your problem.
"A Wise Man Once Said, I Should Ask My Wife."
2017 Champagne Metallic RT-S SE-6 Rivco Dual Flag Holders; Slingmods Highway Pegs; (Hate Them) Airhawk Seat Cushion; Show Chrome Black Touring Rack w/ Risers & Touring Windshield; RAM X Mount For TXTAG; TackForm Phone Mount; Lidlox; Magic Mirror Mounts; Guardian Bells; WOLO "Bad Boy" Air Horn; Dual USB Power Outlet With Voltmeter; 12V outlet for misc. stuff; Spyderpops Full View Mirror Turn Signals; Large Brake Pedal; Kott Grilles; Large Mud Flap; BajaRon 3 Piece Sway Bar, Last But Not Least, Kuhmo Rear Rire, Vedrestien Fronts.
2017 RT-S , Brake pedal extender is twice the size of the stock pedal. Champagne Metallic
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Very Active Member
I would check to see that the battery has a tight connection, if even slightly loose it can throw false codes.
Cruzr Joe
2018 F3 Limited, BRP Driver Backrest, Spyderpops Lighted Bump Skid, Dual Spyclops Light, Mirror Turn Signals, Laser Alignment, Engine LEDs, Fog Lights With Halo's, Cushion Handgrips, BRT LEDs, and Under Lighting, Lamonster IPS, (with Clock), F4 25" Vented Windshield with Wings, Airhawk "R" Cushions. Position 4 Brake setting, Short reach Handlebars, Dash Mounted Voltmeter and 12 Volt Plug. Set of 3rd pegs. Extended Passenger Seat. Exterior BRP Connect setup, Ultimate Trailer
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Originally Posted by oldguyinCT
Does your Spyder have any aftermarket electrical accessories on it like LED lighting, power outlets, etc.? These can sometimes cause a Spyder to throw codes & go into Limp Mode. If you have any such accessories, you may want to disconnect them all & go back to stock to determine what the root of the problem is. You mentioned that your heated gear plug stopped working, and that you could not find a blown fuse. That could be the source of your problem.
Thanks
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Originally Posted by oldguyinCT
Does your Spyder have any aftermarket electrical accessories on it like LED lighting, power outlets, etc.? These can sometimes cause a Spyder to throw codes & go into Limp Mode. If you have any such accessories, you may want to disconnect them all & go back to stock to determine what the root of the problem is. You mentioned that your heated gear plug stopped working, and that you could not find a blown fuse. That could be the source of your problem.
I neglected to say that the problem with my heated gear is that I crossed the wires between my pants and my jacket liner. Then when I tried to turn it on, I lost the power. This happened before the roughly 1100 mile trip home so I don't think it has anything to do with any of the accessories or my screwing up the connection with my gear. I could be wrong but it ran fine home. I just did it without heated gear.
The problem seems to have come about when I checked the fuses. I pulled some of them to be able to check them for continuity with a mulitmeter. I don't know if pulling these fuses could have tripped something or not. I suppose it could have. I thought with everything back together and disconnecting the battery for an extended time would reset things but this has not happened.
Thanks for trying to help me out. I appreciate it.
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Originally Posted by Cruzr Joe
I would check to see that the battery has a tight connection, if even slightly loose it can throw false codes.
Cruzr Joe
Double and tripled checked. All tight. At least to me. Nothing wiggling. Not at all.
Thanks
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Let's see...
oldguyinCT
if it did return after the battery disconnect you should be able to check for codes that can help diagnose the problem....
2012 RS sm5 , 998cc V-Twin 106hp DIY brake and park brake Classic Black
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I'd go back in, and check to make sure that each and every fuse is firmly seated in place.
Good luck!
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Very Active Member
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Very Active Member
Don't forget your relays. Bruce
New to Sue and I
2021, LTD, Asphalt Gray, 22,000 miles
Gone but not forgotten
RTS 2011 SM5, 95,000 miles
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Fixed
Hey all. Thanks for the help. Turns out I was a moron who forgot to go back to basics. I swore I had put the fuses back just as they came out but I had shifted one row one slot to the left so I had a fuse in a dead hole and a hole that needed a fuse in it and didn't. Stuff moved to it's correct slots and all is good now.
Thanks.
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2017 F3T-SM6 Squared Away Mirror Wedgies & Alignment
2014 RTS-SM6 123,600 miles Sold 11/2017
2014 RTL-SE6 8,600 miles
2011 RTS-SM5 5,000 miles
2013 RTS-SM5 burned up with 13,200 miles in 13 weeks
2010 RTS-SM5 59,148 miles
2010 RT- 622
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