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  1. #1
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    Default MY EXPERIENCE PUTTING A NEW REAR TIRE ON MY 2014 RT

    I put on a new car tire 215 60 15 that part went smooth. when I went to put the caliper back on it wouldn't go, so I ended up taking the brake pads out and rotating the plunger back in.. of course this was after all the other things I tried.
    I had the abs sensor. it had 3 shims under it and I was careful to keep them with it. By then it was getting late I dropped the jack fired up the bike. It went immediately in to limp mode. I turned it off then back on. then I had brake failure, parking brake light that wouldn't go out and an abs light. I just thru up my hand and went to bed.
    The next morning after a night of horrid dreams of what the dealer was going to charge for all my screw ups. I got my nerve up and went to the shop dropped the jack fired it up thought ill move it out and see if I can get to the dealer. Well I rolled about 2 feet and all the lights cleared and it was good to go.

  2. #2
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    Whenever I back off the caliper piston I will manually pump the pedal by hand to take the slack back up before starting the byke. This fools the nanny into thinking nothing was done. So far, it has worked every time. Sounds like you did good otherwise!

  3. #3
    Very Active Member BLUEKNIGHT911's Avatar
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    Default TEMPORARY CODE WARNINGS

    Quote Originally Posted by Dennis elliott View Post
    I put on a new car tire 215 60 15 that part went smooth. when I went to put the caliper back on it wouldn't go, so I ended up taking the brake pads out and rotating the plunger back in.. of course this was after all the other things I tried.
    I had the abs sensor. it had 3 shims under it and I was careful to keep them with it. By then it was getting late I dropped the jack fired up the bike. It went immediately in to limp mode. I turned it off then back on. then I had brake failure, parking brake light that wouldn't go out and an abs light. I just thru up my hand and went to bed.
    The next morning after a night of horrid dreams of what the dealer was going to charge for all my screw ups. I got my nerve up and went to the shop dropped the jack fired it up thought ill move it out and see if I can get to the dealer. Well I rolled about 2 feet and all the lights cleared and it was good to go.
    What occurred was not un-common, the NANNY is UBER fussy and it doesn't take much to pi** her off ......and for that CAR tire ( whatever brand ) 21 psi is all you need. At this pressure the " sipes " will work better, especially when it's wet ....... plus the ride will improve ................. Mike

  4. #4
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    Default Let's see....

    Many of the modern sensor systems need to reset after they have been messed with. Once you rolled out it sensed the brakes were fine and the abs was where it should be etc. If mechanics don'the drive your car after a battery change you will see a lot of lights and warnings but once you roll away they all go out...sorry for the sleepless night...
    2012 RS sm5 , 998cc V-Twin 106hp DIY brake and park brake Classic Black

  5. #5
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    Default 21

    Quote Originally Posted by BLUEKNIGHT911 View Post
    What occurred was not un-common, the NANNY is UBER fussy and it doesn't take much to pi** her off ......and for that CAR tire ( whatever brand ) 21 psi is all you need. At this pressure the " sipes " will work better, especially when it's wet ....... plus the ride will improve ................. Mike
    Thanks BlueKnight i had 30 psi ill lower it down today

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    Glad to hear that it has all worked out the way that you had hoped!
    My guess... (That's all it is...), is that when you manually retract the calipers: it messes with Nanny's sense of well-being. Perhaps the change in the brake fluid levels is what does it...
    Once things get cycled back around to where they were: it all clears up!
    2010 RT A&C, RT-L, RT-L , Orbital Blue, Cognac, Jet Black

  7. #7
    Very Active Member BLUEKNIGHT911's Avatar
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    Default TIRE PSI

    Quote Originally Posted by Dennis elliott View Post
    Thanks BlueKnight i had 30 psi ill lower it down today
    Your welcome ..................Only the KENDA ( rear ) needs a high psi because of it's WEAK construction. The car tires we are using are made much stronger and don't need high PSI to support the weight ...... Mike

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    Default Tire pressure???

    Knight, would you still recommend 21 PSI if I generally ride 2 up and near the max weight limit.....and occasionally pulling a 622 trailer? Running the Khumo tire on the back.


    Quote Originally Posted by BLUEKNIGHT911 View Post
    Your welcome ..................Only the KENDA ( rear ) needs a high psi because of it's WEAK construction. The car tires we are using are made much stronger and don't need high PSI to support the weight ...... Mike
    NEVER, look straight up at a bird ....NEVER drink downstream from the herd ....and NEVER, EVER squat....with your spurs on!!!

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    I am two up and pulling a trailer almost always and am at 23 lbs. seems to work well wet or dry.

  10. #10
    Very Active Member BLUEKNIGHT911's Avatar
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    Default KUMHO PSI - WEIGHT LIMIT

    Quote Originally Posted by Windagetray View Post
    Knight, would you still recommend 21 PSI if I generally ride 2 up and near the max weight limit.....and occasionally pulling a 622 trailer? Running the Khumo tire on the back.
    Peter Aawen actually has a formula for this, But I have run car tires much lower and they were fine. I use 21 as a balance ..... folks here are basing the REAR tire pressure on the OEM Kenda @ 28, if I said they should go down to 18 no one would do it........ On our Spyders the Car tires will work better at 21psi because of the weight difference they were designed for - heavy veh vs. Spyder - you have to compensate for this ..... and lowering the psi does this...... Remember your Kumho is designed for a 3600 lb car, even a fully loaded RT with a trl on the tongue is only going to weigh 1540 lbs and only 635 is on the rear tire. Nothing BAD will happen at 21 psi even fully loaded. Ask Peter ...... Mike

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    Default Thanks....

    ....I found one miscalculation..... a car tire would have to handle 1/4 of the 3600# car with the pressure indicated somewhere on the car (gas filler lid/drivers door). ...just being picky but I respect your analysis. You've put more miles on Spyders I'm sure than I ever will! Again, thanks for making us think about the differences in the tire designs/purposes. Thanks again.



    Quote Originally Posted by BLUEKNIGHT911 View Post
    Peter Aawen actually has a formula for this, But I have run car tires much lower and they were fine. I use 21 as a balance ..... folks here are basing the REAR tire pressure on the OEM Kenda @ 28, if I said they should go down to 18 no one would do it........ On our Spyders the Car tires will work better at 21psi because of the weight difference they were designed for - heavy veh vs. Spyder - you have to compensate for this ..... and lowering the psi does this...... Remember your Kumho is designed for a 3600 lb car, even a fully loaded RT with a trl on the tongue is only going to weigh 1540 lbs and only 635 is on the rear tire. Nothing BAD will happen at 21 psi even fully loaded. Ask Peter ...... Mike
    NEVER, look straight up at a bird ....NEVER drink downstream from the herd ....and NEVER, EVER squat....with your spurs on!!!

  12. #12
    Very Active Member BLUEKNIGHT911's Avatar
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    Default weight stated

    Quote Originally Posted by Windagetray View Post
    ....I found one miscalculation..... a car tire would have to handle 1/4 of the 3600# car with the pressure indicated somewhere on the car (gas filler lid/drivers door). ...just being picky but I respect your analysis. You've put more miles on Spyders I'm sure than I ever will! Again, thanks for making us think about the differences in the tire designs/purposes. Thanks again.
    When I stated the weight for the Spyder it was fully loaded w/ trl. ....... The 3600 lb was for the car ONLY.. it was empty - no fluids , no people in vehicle , no luggage etc...... Read my post above to Sarge 707 ..... Spyders are operated at the drivers RISK .... I'm just trying to minimize them........ Mike
    Last edited by BLUEKNIGHT911; 01-24-2017 at 10:18 AM.

  13. #13
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    About the only time that a car tire actually handles 1/4 of the total weight: if the front to rear, and left to right balance is exactly 50/50...
    Since a lot of front-wheel drive cars carry closer to 60% of their weight over the front axles: it's putting even MORE of a load on those tires.
    A car tire on a Spyder isn't even breaking a sweat...
    2010 RT A&C, RT-L, RT-L , Orbital Blue, Cognac, Jet Black

  14. #14
    Ozzie Ozzie Ozzie Peter Aawen's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bob Denman View Post
    .... A car tire on a Spyder isn't even breaking a sweat...
    You can check this for yourself - just take your (fully loaded) Spyder in to your nearest Garden Center or Weigh Station, anywhere with a Weigh bridge, & ask if you can weigh each end of your Spyder!! It might cost you a couple of bucks, but generally the operator will be laughing too hard to charge you anything! Find out what the front weighs, then divide that by 2 (cos the load is shared by 2 tires up front) & then what the rear weighs (only one tire there!) - then you'll know pretty closely what weight each of your tires is REALLY carrying....

    Then look at the sidewall on your tires, somewhere on there will be printed the Maximum load @ Maximum pressure info for that specific brand/type/size of tire (nb, the 'Maximum' bit means the 'Never to be Exceeded in operation' Load &/or Pressure) & compare that to the actual load you now know that you are placing on them!! It's gonna be somewhat different to the Max Load, particularly since most car tires are somewhat over-engineered for the average CAR they expect to carry, let alone something like our Spyders that might be lucky to weigh 1/3rd as much as the average car running that size tire!! But luckily, as Mike has mentioned, there is a fairly simple formula (altho it's definitely not mine, it comes from the tire manufacturers; I've just learnt that it's smart to use it!) which you can use to work out what pressures to run in your (capable of carrying much heavier loads) car tires when they are only carrying your (relatively lightweight) Spyder!!

    Just divide the weight your Spyder actually puts on each tire by the Max Load that tire can carry (taken off the printed info) - that will (almost certainly) give you a fraction, ie 0.294 or something similar, reflecting what percentage or fraction your Spyder's actual load is of the Max Load the tire is capable of carrying; so you can then multiply the Max Pressure by the same decimal/fraction to get the Static Load Pressure necessary for your tire to carry the load the Spyder imposes on it while it's standing still; then just add (up to) 4psi to cater for the added loads that driving, cornering, moving, & speed, etc will impose on the tire during use. Written out 'properly':

    (Max stated Pressure x (Actual Spyder Tire load/Max stated Tire Load)) + <4psi = the Pressure needed in that tire to carry the actual load your Spyder puts on it while you are riding...

    There are 'fine tuning' methods available to check & adjust or confirm how correct/close to the optimal for that tire under your Spyder with your loads etc you've got, but I'm not going to go into that here/now (look up 'The 4psi Rule' if you wish - Cooper tires, Michelin, Goodyear, & others publish it every now & then) Besides, you are going to be a lot closer to the correct pressure for THAT tire under YOUR Spyder loaded the way YOU load it & how YOU ride it than you will by choosing pressures by almost any other means short of getting the tire manufacturer to do the calcs for you - especially if the only alternative is for you to go by the 'compromise' one-size-fits-all-potential-users pressure that's stated on the tire placard - a pressure which in the case of our Spyders is meant to enable a poor quality lightly constructed rubbish tire to work somewhere near marginally well anyway!

    Sorry for the epic post (again ) but some people did specifically ask! Enjoy!
    Last edited by Peter Aawen; 01-24-2017 at 07:52 PM.

  15. #15
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    I was just told I need a new rear tire. Almost 400 bucks. This about right for tire and labor?


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

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    Very Active Member ARtraveler's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by vinsanity666 View Post
    I was just told I need a new rear tire. Almost 400 bucks. This about right for tire and labor?


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    The OEM tire is about $150. They charge for labor by the hour. My dealer gets $130 per hour as of last summer. The price quoted is ballpark.

    Currently Owned: 2019 F3 Limited, 2020 F3 Limited: SOLD BOTH LIMITEDS in October of 2023.

    Previously : 2008 GS-SM5 (silver), 2009 RS-SE5 (red), 2010 RT-S Premier Editon #474 (black) 2011 RT A&C SE5 (magnesium) 2014 RTS-SE6 (yellow)

    MY FINAL TALLY: 7 Spyders, 15 years, 205,500 miles

    IT HAS BEEN A LONG, WONDERFUL, AND FUN RIDE.
    2020 F3L , Magma Red

  17. #17
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    Thanks....wish now I had put on car tire.....tech told me the stock Kenda was designed for the spyder....me thinkith he full o ****.


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    Very Active Member BLUEKNIGHT911's Avatar
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    Default DESIGNED FOR THE SPYDER

    Quote Originally Posted by vinsanity666 View Post
    Thanks....wish now I had put on car tire.....tech told me the stock Kenda was designed for the spyder....me thinkith he full o ****.


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    Well it depends on how you use the term ..... Since the Spyder has wheel BEAD the same as an AUTO..... and the KENDA is just a very very low quality Auto tire .... I guess you could say He was correct .............But Yes you could have gotten a much better tire for a lot less money .......Mike

  19. #19
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    My tire guy: (Netzley Tire), charges less than $90 for a Kumho, and about $50 to slap it on the wheel...
    2010 RT A&C, RT-L, RT-L , Orbital Blue, Cognac, Jet Black

  20. #20
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    Default kuhmo

    Quote Originally Posted by vinsanity666 View Post
    I was just told I need a new rear tire. Almost 400 bucks. This about right for tire and labor?


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    just bought a new rear tire from tire rack for my 2014 rtl 90.00 includes shipping

  21. #21
    Active Member Dib52's Avatar
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    Oil change, inspection and new rear tire all for $500...can't complain. Will mention that my nanny got sensitive on the way home from the dealer and flashed the orange screen of death at me and limp mode until I pulled into the driveway. Pulled the key, walked away and let the electrical gremlins do their thing and all has been reset!

    2011 Spyder RT A&C SE5

  22. #22
    Active Member davehirst's Avatar
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    Default New to spyder

    What the heck is limp mode?
    2015 RT S , None Tried one, but took it off. Didn't like it Black and Silver

  23. #23
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    Limp Mode is what happens when the V.S.S. (Nanny...) senses that something is amiss. She'll light up the Display Panel like nothing you've ever seen, and will restrict the available power.
    What causes it?
    It could be a computer problem, a component problem, or just a simple problem with a sensor.

    But we all Learn:

    Not With Nanny.jpg
    2010 RT A&C, RT-L, RT-L , Orbital Blue, Cognac, Jet Black

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