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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by Sam Mac
This is BS, time to get a lawyer. They took you're $$ for the extended warranty and now they don't want to stand behind the product. If you had 100,000 miles on it well maybe but for the miles you have on it give me a break.
Like I said, carefully read the warranty book before you do anything. If it specifically calls out the clutch as excluded, no lawyer will touch it, unless they are unscrupulous and want their money up front.
Jim
2013 ST-S (wife's)
2015 BMW R1200GS (mine)
1981 Yamaha XS400 Scrambler Custom (mine)
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by JimVonBaden
Like I said, carefully read the warranty book before you do anything. If it specifically calls out the clutch as excluded, no lawyer will touch it, unless they are unscrupulous and want their money up front.
I haven't checked it myself but I believe there is a disclaimer in the warranty stating that the clutch is not covered.
The concern we've had including the dealer is that it wasn't worn but defective and some consideration should have been made to replace the faulty part.
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Well if 12,000 miles is the life expectancy of the clutch on a 1330 SE you would never get me to buy one. Think about a car that would only go 12,000 miles before the clutch's in a semi auto trans took a dump. No way they can tell me I need to eat the repair cost. Someone needs to explain how this can possibly be the operators fault. It's computer controlled, not like you were slipping a manual clutch. Sorry BRP stand up and do the right thing for your customer, it had a part failure I get that but no way is it the owners fault.
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by Purple Guy
They did exchange several emails with BRP, with Steve or not I don't know but in the end they refused to budge.
Did you talk with brpcare personally, or is this information just based on what the dealer said, or actually showed you.
You should be privy to what is going on with your specific case by contact directly with brpcare.
I am a firm believer of trust but verify.
Currently Owned: 2019 F3 Limited, 2020 F3 Limited: SOLD BOTH LIMITEDS in October of 2023.
Previously : 2008 GS-SM5 (silver), 2009 RS-SE5 (red), 2010 RT-S Premier Editon #474 (black) 2011 RT A&C SE5 (magnesium) 2014 RTS-SE6 (yellow)
MY FINAL TALLY: 7 Spyders, 15 years, 205,500 miles
IT HAS BEEN A LONG, WONDERFUL, AND FUN RIDE.
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by akspyderman
Did you talk with brpcare personally, or is this information just based on what the dealer said, or actually showed you.
You should be privy to what is going on with your specific case by contact directly with brpcare.
I am a firm believer of trust but verify.
The owner of the Spyder was in direct contact with BRP
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Active Member
Originally Posted by Sam Mac
Well if 12,000 miles is the life expectancy of the clutch on a 1330 SE you would never get me to buy one. Think about a car that would only go 12,000 miles before the clutch's in a semi auto trans took a dump. No way they can tell me I need to eat the repair cost. Someone needs to explain how this can possibly be the operators fault. It's computer controlled, not like you were slipping a manual clutch. Sorry BRP stand up and do the right thing for your customer, it had a part failure I get that but no way is it the owners fault.
Current: "Scarlett", 2017 Can Am F3-T, SE6, Intense Red Pearl.
BRP heated grips, DIY brake light strip and turn signal strips, Chrome/LED brake light tag frame, SpyderPops bumpskid, Baja Ron swaybar and billet links, Lamonster Third Peg, BRP Adjustable Passenger Backrest, SpyderPops Missing Belt Guard, ShowChrome oversize brake pedal, TricLED foglights.
Previous: "Synthia", 2014 Can Am Spyder RT, SM6, Pearl White.
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Very Active Member
cost down
well I might be late with this one , but if he goes too the dealer service , have the owner , take off all skins that is needed too do the work , on the cycle itself , this will knock down the price a good bit ! unless this would be considered a warranty expense that is covered ?
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by Purple Guy
I haven't checked it myself but I believe there is a disclaimer in the warranty stating that the clutch is not covered.
The concern we've had including the dealer is that it wasn't worn but defective and some consideration should have been made to replace the faulty part.
Unfortunately that disclaimer is going to be hard to fight. You will need an independent analysis, from a respected tech, to have a shot at a case. Not so easy to get.
Jim
2013 ST-S (wife's)
2015 BMW R1200GS (mine)
1981 Yamaha XS400 Scrambler Custom (mine)
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This just dosn,t sound right.It should be under warranty and if not BRP should explain why it,s not.It,s a SE6 so how can you destroy the clutches unless your reving the engine then dropping it into 1st or reverse.I would love to ses a pic of the old clutches,s.I,msure there,s lots of machines out there with more miles and no problems and that pull a trailer.
Bill
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Very Active Member
While I disagree with it, the warranty coverage (lack thereof) on the clutch is very clear.
Its not covered. Period.
Its specifically called out in the warranty verbiage. Does not matter what caused it. Driver error, wrong or not serviced fluids, bad luck, defect in design. Does not matter. No coverage for the clutch.
If BRP is unwilling to do a good faith repair for you, there is little you can do.
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Originally Posted by jcthorne
While I disagree with it, the warranty coverage (lack thereof) on the clutch is very clear.
Its not covered. Period.
Its specifically called out in the warranty verbiage. Does not matter what caused it. Driver error, wrong or not serviced fluids, bad luck, defect in design. Does not matter. No coverage for the clutch.
If BRP is unwilling to do a good faith repair for you, there is little you can do.
Well I didn't realize that the clutch is not covered. I'd still like someone to explain how it is not a defect when the operator has no control of it with the SE trans.
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by Sam Mac
Well I didn't realize that the clutch is not covered. I'd still like someone to explain how it is not a defect when the operator has no control of it with the SE trans.
That was the point of my post. It may very well be a defect. Its still not covered. There is no warranty on the clutch. Most automotive warranties have the same type clause on clutches. Does not matter if they are computer controlled or not. Its a wear item like tires and brake pads. Some vehicles cover them all for some length of time but BRP chooses not to.
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Originally Posted by Ex Winger
This just dosn,t sound right.It should be under warranty and if not BRP should explain why it,s not.It,s a SE6 so how can you destroy the clutches unless your reving the engine then dropping it into 1st or reverse.I would love to ses a pic of the old clutches,s.I,msure there,s lots of machines out there with more miles and no problems and that pull a trailer.
Bill
Wow, with just 5,000 miles on my F3T, it makes me cringe every time I shift gears. Especially into 1st or reverse, the 'clunking' is so hard and loud, it rocks the bike. My thought is always, "ouch"! I wonder what just sheared or broke off". Any connect here with what this discussion is about? Do I have any thing to be concerned about, within the next 15k + miles?
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Ozzie Ozzie Ozzie
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Originally Posted by Peter Aawen
Doesn't the US have over-riding Federal Laws that exclude 'defective or not-fit-for-purpose' items & components from weasel words in warranties like that?? Other countries do?!?
Perhaps,
How many lawyers do you have on retainer that are not doing other useful work?
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Ozzie Ozzie Ozzie
Here, it generally takes just one phone call to the applicable Ombudsman & usually within hours the manufacturer concerned is ringing you to arrange where & when you want the loaner delivered while they collect & fix your problem!! No need for Lawyers or much in the way of arguments in about 90% of defective component cases! And the majority of the rest never get past the 'mediated discussion' stage either!
Last edited by Peter Aawen; 11-01-2016 at 05:25 PM.
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by Ex Winger
This just dosn,t sound right.It should be under warranty and if not BRP should explain why it,s not.It,s a SE6 so how can you destroy the clutches unless your reving the engine then dropping it into 1st or reverse.I would love to ses a pic of the old clutches,s.I,msure there,s lots of machines out there with more miles and no problems and that pull a trailer.
Bill
Well, being the devils advocate here... someone with an SE could run too low on oil and burn the plates up, pull a trailer that is too heavy, etc.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Spyder #1 - 2008 GS SM5 Premier Edition #1977. RIP after 80,000 miles.
Spyder #2 - 2012 RT SM5. Traded in after 24,000 miles.
Spyder #3 - 2015 F3 SM6. Put 13,000 miles on and sold it.
Spyder #4 - 2017 F3 SM6. Too good of a deal to pass up!
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Great, sounds to me like my F3 T with 800 miles on it is left to " Luck" on if it has a large failure and likely wont be covered under warranty. Not at all what I was hoping the outcome would be once I started with this thread.
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Well if BRP thinks that this is good customer service they can count me out as a future buyer. Keep it up and see what happens to sales.
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by Sam Mac
Well if BRP thinks that this is good customer service they can count me out as a future buyer. Keep it up and see what happens to sales.
No Powersports company in the world is going to cover a clutch.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Spyder #1 - 2008 GS SM5 Premier Edition #1977. RIP after 80,000 miles.
Spyder #2 - 2012 RT SM5. Traded in after 24,000 miles.
Spyder #3 - 2015 F3 SM6. Put 13,000 miles on and sold it.
Spyder #4 - 2017 F3 SM6. Too good of a deal to pass up!
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I guess he can look at it this way, it only cost him 16 cents a mile for clutch expense.
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Originally Posted by fritzer1
Wow, with just 5,000 miles on my F3T, it makes me cringe every time I shift gears. Especially into 1st or reverse, the 'clunking' is so hard and loud, it rocks the bike. My thought is always, "ouch"! I wonder what just sheared or broke off". Any connect here with what this discussion is about? Do I have any thing to be concerned about, within the next 15k + miles?
The clunk is normal on any bike that has a wet clutch. It also really has nothing to do with the clutch. In a wet clutch, the driven plates are just being dragged around by the oil around the drive plates. If you want to eliminate this problem, start the bike in gear with the clutch disengaged. (Manual xmissions only)
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