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Very Active Member
Removing drain plugs and not over tightening when installing #101
Trying to figure out why so many here are stripping out (threads) plugs.
1. Turning the wrong direction when removing? Righty tighty- Lefty Loosey! (facing the plug--remember the plug is upside down)
2. Cross/threading when installing?
3. Over torquing when installing (I have never used a torque wrench to install) moderately tight and check for oil leaks after running) Torquing steel to an aluminum pan is a DS idea.
In my thirty years on the farm, working as a mechanic and aviation Mech (Technician for you young kids out there) and owning several hundred vehicles and toys in my lifetime I have never "stripped a plug" for the above reasons or any other reasons. ( I have made up several new swear words and thrown wrenches but never stripped a plug) IMO most are turning the plug the wrong direction (tightening to remove) and stripping the threads. More than a new plug here is needed to repair. Several different ways to do this.
Please for your next oil change lay on your back next to the ole spyder look up and decide right there if it is "lefty loosey" before you try that oversized wrench on the drain plug. Laying on your back, hand in the air, turn your fingers counter clock wise. That is how the plug is loosened.
On any plug always use a new crushed washer or O ring and one that is specified. Never reuse the
washer or O ring that you removed regardless of how good it looks.
One mentionable here is the factory installs these plugs dry (no oil) at the factory. Oil is added after install. The above is even more important in the first oil change as it will be seated dry and may be more difficult to remove and thus damage the threads. Subsequent changes will be easier because you ARE NOT GOING TO OVER TIGHTEN ARE YOU? Small wrench and never more than moderate hand tightening.
Jack
Last edited by jaherbst; 10-30-2016 at 04:54 PM.
All my life I wanted to be somebody, now I realize I should have been more specific.
2019 Specialized E-Bike COMO 2.0
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2015 BMW R1200R LC
2014 RTL SE6 Pearl White
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2011 Polaris Ranger green
2013 GMC Yukon Denali XL silver oak
2016 Can Am Maverick
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Originally Posted by Sccar
Which ones do u need for the F3S. Gold plug has 3 listed for the F3S; MP-01, MP-02 & MP-18
MP 01and MP 18on the gold plug for the f3! check with the seller to make sure!
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Very Active Member
I find this "don't use a torque wrench" idea interesting. I have a fairly calibrated arm, but I often use a torque wrench for critical fasteners.
Jim
2013 ST-S (wife's)
2015 BMW R1200GS (mine)
1981 Yamaha XS400 Scrambler Custom (mine)
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Originally Posted by Ex-Rocket
Ok, I'm still confused. Could somebody list the 2 gold plugs part numbers to do an oil change. I have the dimple plugs in there now and I'm due for an oil change. Are they the MP-01 & MP-18 that is needed for the 1330 engine?
YUP!
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IMHO if you are not comfortable enough tightening drain plugs without the use of a torque wrench, and/or are stripping oil drain plugs/plug holes, then you should really consider leaving the tools in the toolbox and letting someone else change the oil for you.
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Very Active Member
Jim
2013 ST-S (wife's)
2015 BMW R1200GS (mine)
1981 Yamaha XS400 Scrambler Custom (mine)
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Very Active Member
PROOF ?????
Originally Posted by JimVonBaden
How is anyone supposed to learn what the proper torque feels like without using a torque wrench? I certainly can assemble nearly anything without one, but why not use it if you have it, assuming it is properly calibrated and you know how to use it? I don't understand this dislike of torque wrenches?
Just so I can "prove" my competence, I took this from this:
To this:
To this:
100% by myself, without needing a torque wrench except engine assembly.
Want further "proof" of my competence, click on the link in my sigline.
Sorry if I seem a bit defensive.
.Sorry if I missed seeing any " Proof " ..................Drew, I trust your opinion ......Mike
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You can call it "Stupid", "Old-Fashioned", or just being cheap; but I just tighten them back up, with the same effort that it took to remove it...
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Very Active Member
Of course not!
Jim
2013 ST-S (wife's)
2015 BMW R1200GS (mine)
1981 Yamaha XS400 Scrambler Custom (mine)
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Very Active Member
Last edited by JimVonBaden; 10-31-2016 at 12:23 PM.
Jim
2013 ST-S (wife's)
2015 BMW R1200GS (mine)
1981 Yamaha XS400 Scrambler Custom (mine)
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by zuni
Anybody used these?
Happy TRAils/NSD
Paul
2012 RT L
AMA 25 years Life Member
TRA
PGR
Rhino Riders Plate #83
Venturers #78
TOI
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Very Active Member
THIS PRODUCT
Originally Posted by pegasus1300
Anybody used these?
It looks like a less expensive alternative - there were some problems reported with the LARGE MAGNET Dimple plugs - but these aren't those, so I would have no concerns in that area ......jmho..... Mike
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Originally Posted by JimVonBaden
How is anyone supposed to learn what the proper torque feels like without using a torque wrench? I certainly can assemble nearly anything without one, but why not use it if you have it, assuming it is properly calibrated and you know how to use it? I don't understand this dislike of torque wrenches?
Just so I can "prove" my competence, I took this from this:
To this:
To this:
100% by myself, without needing a torque wrench except engine assembly.
Want further "proof" of my competence, click on the link in my sigline.
Sorry if I seem a bit defensive.
Wasn't looking for proof, and honestly wasn't anything directed toward you specifically. Just a general statement. Sorry you got your panties in a bunch... If you've taken anything apart then you obviously know how silly it really is to feel the need to use a torque wrench on an oil drain plug. Especially, a steel plug threaded into aluminum. Next people will be asking for what torque specs to use on the body panel bolts. The specific torque on a drain plug with a crush washer or oring just isn't that critical.
However, since you asked on how someone is supposed to get the feel. The way I was taught, and the way I taught my kids is to use mostly 1/4" drive starting out. Nearly impossible to gorilla tighten with 1/4".
Anymore I only use a torque wrench when I have multiple bolts that need to be consistent like on a motor or trans. Other odds and ends too....but not a drain plug.
Which is why I made the statement that if someone isn't confident enough in their ability to tighten a drain plug without feeling the need to throw a torque wrench on there, then maybe they should leave the tools in the box
Best of luck!
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Last edited by DrewNJ; 10-31-2016 at 04:03 PM.
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by DrewNJ
Wasn't looking for proof, and honestly wasn't anything directed toward you specifically. Just a general statement. Sorry you got your panties in a bunch... If you've taken anything apart then you obviously know how silly it really is to feel the need to use a torque wrench on an oil drain plug. Especially, a steel plug threaded into aluminum. Next people will be asking for what torque specs to use on the body panel bolts. The specific torque on a drain plug with a crush washer or oring just isn't that critical.
However, since you asked on how someone is supposed to get the feel. The way I was taught, and the way I taught my kids is to use mostly 1/4" drive starting out. Nearly impossible to gorilla tighten with 1/4".
Anymore I only use a torque wrench when I have multiple bolts that need to be consistent like on a motor or trans. Other odds and ends too....but not a drain plug.
Which is why I made the statement that if someone isn't confident enough in their ability to tighten a drain plug without feeling the need to throw a torque wrench on there, then maybe they should leave the tools in the box
Best of luck!
Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk
I just threw in the proof because some here seem to need it to even listen to the new guy.
As for using a torque wrench, I still fail to see the harm in it, especially for someone starting out wrenching. I do believe that certain critical fasteners should be properly torqued. This includes wheels, brake components, etc. If you disagree that is fine, your call on your bike. I would not trust my bike to someone who looks down on others for wanting to be sure, and I sure would not belittle others who wish to use their torque wrenches on their bikes.
Oh, and body panel screws are usually 8-10Nm.
Jim
2013 ST-S (wife's)
2015 BMW R1200GS (mine)
1981 Yamaha XS400 Scrambler Custom (mine)
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Personally, I've never felt the need to be accepted by any particular group, and have never been one to try and post up "proof" of any accomplishments. I have nothing to prove and have never cared what anyone thought or believed, especially on an internet forum. But hey, whatever works for you....👍
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Last edited by DrewNJ; 10-31-2016 at 05:35 PM.
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by DrewNJ
Personally, I've never felt the need to be accepted by any particular group, and have never been one to try and post up "proof" of any accomplishments. I honestly have never cared what anyone thought or believed, especially on an internet forum. But hey, whatever works for you....👍
Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk
Cool, then I am perfectly comfortable disagreeing with you!
Jim
2013 ST-S (wife's)
2015 BMW R1200GS (mine)
1981 Yamaha XS400 Scrambler Custom (mine)
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Very Active Member
Even though I don't have a 1330 engine, I wanted to thank SemperFi and Copperman for starting this thread and answering it quickly. I now know about Gold plugs, Dimple Plugs, and alternatives, but have decided I'd get the goldplugs myself and do this maintenance myself.
Safe Rides,
David and Sharon Goebel
Both Retired USAF Veterans
2018 Anniversary Edition RT Limited
Baja Ron ultimate swaybar. Vredestein tires, Baja Ron Front Shock Pre-load adjusters, Pedal Box, See my Spyder Garage
IBA 70020 |
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by pegasus1300
Anybody used these?
4 of them. 2014 RTs, 2015 F3s and 2 2016 F3t. Magnet size is fine. Thinking about how many miles over a whole bunch of years without magnets I see it as more of insurance. You really want to know what is in the oil spend the $25 once a year for analysis. Learned that I was tossing out good oil on my HHR. Over time increased the interval from 3500 miles between changes to 14K using Mobil 1 and Blackstone Labs said I could probably go another 3,000. Going from monthly to quarterly was enough savings for me.
CJ JAX
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Originally Posted by JimVonBaden
Cool, then I am perfectly comfortable disagreeing with you!
Glad your making yourself comfortable😎
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Very Active Member
I think the $6 magnets will work just fine for me. Just ordered 2 from Value.
Happy TRAils/NSD
Paul
2012 RT L
AMA 25 years Life Member
TRA
PGR
Rhino Riders Plate #83
Venturers #78
TOI
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by zuni
4 of them. 2014 RTs, 2015 F3s and 2 2016 F3t. Magnet size is fine. Thinking about how many miles over a whole bunch of years without magnets I see it as more of insurance. You really want to know what is in the oil spend the $25 once a year for analysis. Learned that I was tossing out good oil on my HHR. Over time increased the interval from 3500 miles between changes to 14K using Mobil 1 and Blackstone Labs said I could probably go another 3,000. Going from monthly to quarterly was enough savings for me.
CJ JAX
CJ Jax, +1 on the Blackstone reports, I add the extra TBN reports and have routinely found I could extend my oil usage on different IC engines I've used. Not to mention the comfort I get when (knock wood) I've always got good reports back from them.
Now I'm thinking about checking out the Valueparts plugs
Safe Rides,
David and Sharon Goebel
Both Retired USAF Veterans
2018 Anniversary Edition RT Limited
Baja Ron ultimate swaybar. Vredestein tires, Baja Ron Front Shock Pre-load adjusters, Pedal Box, See my Spyder Garage
IBA 70020 |
|
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by pegasus1300
I think the $6 magnets will work just fine for me. Just ordered 2 from Value.
They had photos on the site, but post up real photos if you will. I may order a pair just to have them. Cheap enough to toss in a drawer.
Jim
2013 ST-S (wife's)
2015 BMW R1200GS (mine)
1981 Yamaha XS400 Scrambler Custom (mine)
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Torque wrenches....
Here's the thing, they are generally over a foot long. so they already are like pry bars. they can be flexible scale or breaker type but regardless very easy on over shoot your desired torque. I have 4 and use them rarely but especially not on smaller nuts and bolts...if you do not have mechanical abilities it is wise to use them carefully... the rest of us can feel the torque pretty well...
2012 RS sm5 , 998cc V-Twin 106hp DIY brake and park brake Classic Black
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11-01-2016, 06:10 AM
#100
Very Active Member
Originally Posted by Chupaca
Here's the thing, they are generally over a foot long. so they already are like pry bars. they can be flexible scale or breaker type but regardless very easy on over shoot your desired torque. I have 4 and use them rarely but especially not on smaller nuts and bolts...if you do not have mechanical abilities it is wise to use them carefully... the rest of us can feel the torque pretty well...
Please don't be offended by this, but if a torque wrench is too hard to use correctly, then any wrench is going to be a challenge!
Jim
2013 ST-S (wife's)
2015 BMW R1200GS (mine)
1981 Yamaha XS400 Scrambler Custom (mine)
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