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08-31-2016, 10:09 AM
#101
Amen
Amen!
Originally Posted by papanorm
All I can say is "It's about time!"
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08-31-2016, 10:16 AM
#102
Very Active Member
Originally Posted by wd8ajj
Was it an easy install? Did the dealer have to rear down the left side ti install?
I am not sure how long it took the dealer to install my wife's, but I would say about an hour to take the panels off put it on and put the panels back.
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08-31-2016, 10:44 AM
#103
Active Member
I hope BRP designs a tensioner for the 2015 RT, for the top of the belt. I have a tensioner on the bottom of the belt and still have vibration. It keeps Meg and I from taking long distance trips as the vibration is very annoying.
Tried tightening or loosening the belt, that only moves the speed at which the vibration occurs. Valcourt is coming up next year and really want to resolve this issue before the trip.
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08-31-2016, 05:40 PM
#104
Very Active Member
Originally Posted by SpyderCruiser
I hope BRP designs a tensioner for the 2015 RT, for the top of the belt. I have a tensioner on the bottom of the belt and still have vibration. It keeps Meg and I from taking long distance trips as the vibration is very annoying.
Tried tightening or loosening the belt, that only moves the speed at which the vibration occurs. Valcourt is coming up next year and really want to resolve this issue before the trip.
There has got to be some combo of tensioner pressure & belt tension that works. I just rode 800 miles to Wing Ding in Billings up 90 mph at times. No vibration at all! Belt tension is about 200 & tensioner is set on 2nd or 3rd mark, I think.
Sent from my SM-T350 using Tapatalk
2014 Copper RTS
Tri-Axis bars, CB, BajaRon sway bar & shock adjusters, SpyderPop's Bumpskid, NBV peg brackets, LED headlights and modulator, Wolo trumpet air horns, trailer hitch, custom trailer harness, high mount turn signals, Custom Dynamics brake light, LED turn signal lights on mirrors, LED strip light for a dash light, garage door opener, LED lights in frunk, trunk, and saddlebags, RAM mounts and cradles for tablet (for GPS) and phone (for music), and Smooth Spyder belt tensioner.
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08-31-2016, 07:35 PM
#105
ordered!!!
next summer we can try them hahaa
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08-31-2016, 07:46 PM
#106
Originally Posted by _..stiffler..
ordered!!!
next summer we can try them hahaa
Is there a part number?
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08-31-2016, 09:31 PM
#107
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09-01-2016, 10:21 PM
#108
install available during Sep 22-24 Rally?
Originally Posted by Lamonster
I was talking with Len at Pitbull the other day and he said that BRP showed a belt tensioner at the dealer show for the F3 that will work on all F3's. He said it was pretty cheap to, under $50.00. That's good news for those that are bothered by the belt vibration.
Now that the part number and availability date is known, what's the chance of a ride-in purchase and install during Spyders in the Ozarks?
Pete
Pete Tamblyn
Cleveland, GA
2020 F3 Limited (black)
Time Out XL1800 cargo trailer
2019 Royal Enfield 650 Interceptor
2018 Kawasaki Versys-X 300
2013 ST (sold)
2015 F3-S SOLD
2014 RT-Limited (cognac) SOLD
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09-07-2016, 06:34 PM
#109
belt tensioner
Originally Posted by beefybudds
Makes you wonder if BRP intended to have a bad belt design just to get another $50 from us.
By them coming out with this is just admitting there design was faulty off the production line.
Then you have dealers saying that the vibration is normal.
Come on BRP why charge us for something that corrects your bad design......this item should be free.
I TOTALLY AGREE WITH YOU!
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09-07-2016, 07:16 PM
#110
Originally Posted by louigii
I TOTALLY AGREE WITH YOU!
Rode my 2016 F3T 320 miles round trip yesterday for first oil change and çheckup. Mechanic said the belt was loose at 800 newton's and he tightened to 750, which was supposedly spec. First time I have seen these numbers.
Any thoughts?
Vibration just moved to 65 and 70mph.
Looks as though I'll be getting the BRP tensioner.
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09-07-2016, 07:24 PM
#111
BELT TENSIONER FOR RT
Originally Posted by DriftersWay
They should make one for the RT also.
WELL I HAVE A 2012 CAN AM SPYDER RT SE5 AND IT HAS A BELT TENSIONER ON IT. IT WAS PUT ON BY THE PREVIOUS OWNER, WORKS PRETTY GOOD.
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09-07-2016, 09:17 PM
#112
Originally Posted by Lamonster
I was talking with Len at Pitbull the other day and he said that BRP showed a belt tensioner at the dealer show for the F3 that will work on all F3's. He said it was pretty cheap to, under $50.00. That's good news for those that are bothered by the belt vibration.
Thanks. I ordered it
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09-08-2016, 06:49 AM
#113
Belt tensioner
I ordered mine a couple days ago. The dealer has in stock the aftermarket tensioner for way over $200, but I opted for the BRP unit at $34.95. If nothing else, this is a relatively easy part to fabricate if you have reliable resources. But, we will see how it all works out. My vibrations are so varied, anywhere from about 65 mph to 75 mph, but quite dependent on throttle position, i.e., and the resulting belt tension.
We will see how it all works out. Hopefully, the tensioner will eliminate the severity of the vibration if not completely clear up the problem.
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09-08-2016, 09:31 AM
#114
Very Active Member
Originally Posted by fritzer1
Rode my 2016 F3T 320 miles round trip yesterday for first oil change and çheckup. Mechanic said the belt was loose at 800 newton's and he tightened to 750, which was supposedly spec. First time I have seen these numbers.
Any thoughts?
Vibration just moved to 65 and 70mph.
Looks as though I'll be getting the BRP tensioner.
Once again the dealer cannot be bothered to read the information sent to him from BRP. That is the spec for an RT, NOT and F3.
Spec for an F3 is 300N +- 100. You have WAY to much tension in that belt. Suggest you take it back and ask that it be corrected to the BRP spec.
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09-08-2016, 10:13 AM
#115
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09-08-2016, 03:55 PM
#116
Very Active Member
Originally Posted by jcthorne
Once again the dealer cannot be bothered to read the information sent to him from BRP. That is the spec for an RT, NOT and F3.
Spec for an F3 is 300N +- 100. You have WAY to much tension in that belt. Suggest you take it back and ask that it be corrected to the BRP spec.
I agree--lowering the belt tension on the ground to 170# & maintain belt tracking was not easy on my easy model F3's. I had to remove the shaft nut side & file down the housing a touch to allow the tracking nut side to go far enough to the rear to be able to lower the other bolt side tension to 170# without affecting belt tracking. I have needed to place a cotter pin on all locking nut wheel shaft's in the past on several bikes for race track requirements. While this rear tire shaft is thicker, the metal is much softer. Drilling through the outer threads to permit a cotter pin was a a breeze compared to other bikes. That shaft metal is thicker but the metal is considerably softer. I had to tighten from the end of the shaft to the locking nut is approx 5/16", cotter pin is approx 3/16". For some reason I needed to tighten the shaft nut with the torque wrench on the screw end of the nut shaft. Tightening the shaft from the locking nut end would skew the tracking--every time.. Something is not straight on my drive frame, but lowering that 200#+ krikit tension to lower# is best. I torque closer to 150# or less, motorcycle rear wheels are closer to 80-90# torque. 160# rear wheel shaft torque seems unrealistic to me.
What is the procedure for ordering the new BRP tension roller from BRP--contact etc, I have the PN:
Thanks,
Darrell
Last edited by Wildrice; 09-08-2016 at 04:01 PM.
2015 F3's , two 12 volt power outlets Orange & Black
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09-08-2016, 09:52 PM
#117
Originally Posted by jcthorne
Once again the dealer cannot be bothered to read the information sent to him from BRP. That is the spec for an RT, NOT and F3.
Spec for an F3 is 300N +- 100. You have WAY to much tension in that belt. Suggest you take it back and ask that it be corrected to the BRP spec.
Hi JC - I am totally confused. If my dealer mechanic says my belt is LOOSE at 800n and he tightens it to 750n, and if spec is 300n, then it is STILL too loose at 750n.
What am I missing here?
Wish I had asked for the krikit reading.
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09-09-2016, 05:11 AM
#118
Active Member
Wait, isn't 750n lower than 800n? Someone is mistaken.
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09-09-2016, 06:17 AM
#119
Very Active Member
Originally Posted by fritzer1
Hi JC - I am totally confused. If my dealer mechanic says my belt is LOOSE at 800n and he tightens it to 750n, and if spec is 300n, then it is STILL too loose at 750n.
What am I missing here?
Wish I had asked for the krikit reading.
The point is you belt at 750n is to tight, not too loose. Your dealer set it to the wrong tension spec.
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09-09-2016, 02:34 PM
#120
Active Member
Belt Tensioner
I ordered mine Yesterday and my Dealer told me they would install in for free...very nice...
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09-09-2016, 03:13 PM
#121
Active Member
Hey guys you should be bitching your asse's off and demanding that BRP fix our broken machines!
This is a major let-Down from Can Am, and I can't believe some of the reply's where guys are almost happy to pay for the parts and labor and loss time to put it on.
Can Am designs something that is broken - then as if its not enough we have to suffer with the vibration. After almost everyone is complaining, they come up with a Mickey Mouse hang on bandage "Fix" but wait . . . . . we end up paying for Can-Am's mistake.
I mean you don't have to be a Genius to realize when a belt gets "So" long you have to add an Idler somewhere. So instead of issuing a re-call to fix a know vibration problem - they come up with a fix and let the buyers foot the bill for their lack of engineering - and we have to:
1) Pay for a part that is already supposed to be on he bike.
2) Pay labor cost to install something that should already be included.
3) Put ourselves thought the BS of leaving a bike or waiting for it.
4) Suffer from the down time (transportation) to bring it to a dealer which for most of us is 1-2 days of obligation.
Guys - "Wake Up" there is nothing to be happy about!
The real questions is with all the hype of high technology and thousands of miles of research and all the "Expert" drivers - did no one at BRP even drive the damn bikes and feel such an obvious vibration problem. On my first test ride it took me 5 minutes to note the problem. When I mentioned it to the dealer he said when you feel the vibration - just slow down or speed up till it goes away! Hellooo . . . . .
Come On BRP Make This Right - fix our machines we already spent $25K
Last edited by IdleUp; 09-09-2016 at 03:17 PM.
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09-09-2016, 05:32 PM
#122
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09-09-2016, 06:06 PM
#123
Very Active Member
Originally Posted by Bob Denman
Nothing is broken, and this issue doesn't affect all of the bikes to the same degree...
And YELLING about it, is a pretty strong turn-off; unless you don't mind not being taken seriously...
Or did you just hit the "Big Font Button" in error?
I agree with you, Bob.......except for the bit about the large font......It meant I didn't need to go looking for my glasses, which was lucky as I can never remember where I left them!
Pete
Harrington, Australia
2021 RT Limited
Setup for Tall & Big.... 200cm/6'7", 140kg/300lbs, 37"inleg.
HeliBars Handlebars
Brake rubber removed to lower pedal for easier long leg/Size 15 EEEEW boot access.
Ikon (Aussie) shocks all round.
Russell Daylong seat 2” taller than stock (in Sunbrella for Aussie heat & water resistance)
Goodyear Duragrip 165/60 fronts (18psi) - provides extra 1/2” ground clearance.
Kenda Kanine rear.
2021 RT Limited , Brake pedal rubber removed for ease of accessing pedal with size 15 boots. Red
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09-10-2016, 08:12 AM
#124
2010 RTS-SE, Orbital Blue
IdleUp;
As I understand it, 5 minutes into your test ride you detected a vibration and mentioned it to the dealer. He suggested how to avoid feeling the vibration, but evidently, you chose to ignore his suggestion. Evidently, you went ahead and purchased the machine with the knowledge of the vibration. I fail to see how you can blame BRP for your decision. JMO
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09-10-2016, 08:36 AM
#125
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