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  1. #1
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    Default Thinking about taking the plunge. Which model year(s) should I consider?

    A friend of mine bought a 2014 RS-S, and he's hoping that I will follow suit and buy a Spyder. Being only 5' 7", I'm leaning more toward the RS models. When I sat on my friend's, it felt very comfortable. He is paraplegic, and I also have a spinal injury (but still have some use of my legs.) His is set up with foot plates, and the seating position felt like it was just about perfect. If I end up buying one of these beasts, I'll probably want to install a hand brake. 15 years ago, I injured my back when I crashed an old Yamaha Radian. At the time, I was 22 and was NOT a skilled (or cautious) rider. So, I can't claim to be a seasoned motorcyclist that is looking for something different. A couple years ago, I built a little 100cc Kawasaki dirt bike. Building it was fun, but riding it was a harrowing experience. So, I am thinking that three wheels might be a much safer idea.

    One of my concerns is maintenance and mechanical issues. I do all of my own auto repairs, but I am wondering if the Spyders have a level of complexity that is beyond my skill set. Basic maintenance, upgrades, and mods should be no problem. I'd be more worried about having to dig into the heads or transmission. However, from what I've read, these machines seem to be quite reliable.

    Another thing I've been wondering about is which model years I should be considering. I've seen some pretty darned good deals on 2008-2010 models. Do the SE5s from those years have some quirks? Would an SM5 be the way to go for an older Spyder? I read that some changes were made in 2013-2014 in order to work out some of the earlier bugs. Would I be better served looking for a newer bike? I have an electric shifting system (Translogic) that I could pull from the dirt bike if I wanted to set it up on an SM5, but I do like the idea of the SE5. Are the older models able to be upgraded to the same levels of performance and reliability as the newer versions? I enjoy tinkering and modifying my vehicles.

    Any input would be appreciated. Even buying an older/used Spyder would be a considerable investment for me. Part of me feels that I would want to spend more time modifying and working on a Spyder than I would riding it. Still, I'd like to make sure I have a sound understanding of what I'm looking at before moving forward. There are lots of good deals out there, so it'll be good to be informed. This is a great forum!

  2. #2
    Active Member CarolinaSpyderRyder's Avatar
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    Default I am also 5'7''

    I am also 5'7'' and all I have to go on is my personal experience, I have Cerebral Palsy, and I absolutely love my 2014 RS-S. For now it's bone stock. It fits me perfectly. It has been mechanically sound now for about 10,000 miles with the exception of some damage I incurred when a deer collided with me. My Spyder is back together now and rides and runs as good as new. Much better in case of deer collision than any other motorcycle I've ridden.
    Last edited by CarolinaSpyderRyder; 02-25-2016 at 02:05 AM.
    2014 RSS , Sunburst Yellow and Steel Black Metallic

  3. #3
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    Hi just thought I'd mention that if you want a semi auto, get one from the outset. The gearbox is an integral part of the engine so a 'swap' later from manual to auto is a big (costly) job.

    Re which model - key differences are twin vs triple, with the triple allegedly being better - that said I love my twin and as you'll be doing servicing it'll be fine - also twin will be a cheaper buy. Otherwise, suggest you go for one which has lots of add ons that you want... Sounds like a hand brake may be something to look for? Have fun.

    pS I love my semi auto - I still change up and down myself, but find flappy paddles instead of clutch lever and pedal is just so much easier physically.

  4. #4
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    Welcome to our little "Sandbox"...
    The RS Models have always been pretty darn reliable; try to find one from the 2010 to 2012 years.
    (In 2013; they changed to the "throttle by wire' setup of the RT models...)
    2010 RT A&C, RT-L, RT-L , Orbital Blue, Cognac, Jet Black

  5. #5
    Very Active Member BLUEKNIGHT911's Avatar
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    Default CHOICES

    I've been Spydering for 8 yrs. had three, the last a 1330 triple.......my advice - if you can afford it ( 16,000 +) get a 2015 , F-3 semi-auto..............you won't regret this choice .........Mike

  6. #6
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  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bob Denman View Post
    Welcome to our little "Sandbox"...
    The RS Models have always been pretty darn reliable; try to find one from the 2010 to 2012 years.
    (In 2013; they changed to the "throttle by wire' setup of the RT models...)

    Good to know. I assume the '10-'12 have a throttle cable.

    I like the aesthetics of the F3, but I feel that the riding position of the RS may be better suited to me as I am a shorter fellow, and I have compromised use of my legs. In comparing the two by sight only, I find myself feeling that the positioning on the RS would allow me to balance and control my body weight with both my arms and my legs. The F3 looks as though it would rely more on the legs. I suppose I could go to a local dealership and test-drive an F3, but I wouldn't feel right as I'd have no intention of buying a new machine. Also, I definitely like the idea of being able to buy an RS for nearly half the cost of an F3.

    In terms of changing an RS from manual to auto... The Translogic system I've got is an external setup that can be added to any motorcycle. It's not the fastest shift on earth, but it gets the job done and is simple/reliable. I am confident that I could easily adapt it to a Spyder (as I did with the dirt bike.) I guess my question is whether an SM5 with the Translogic Powershifter would be better than the SE5. Here's a video of someone that has one on a Harley.

    I should probably test-ride my friend's RS-S, but I've been hesitant to. As I told him, I don't want to get hooked and end up making an impulse buy. I worry that I wouldn't get anything done this year as I'd end up riding it all over the place!

  8. #8
    Very Active Member ARtraveler's Avatar
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    As you can see, there are now a whole lot of choices. Manual, Semi Automatic, Two Cylinder (998) and Three Cylinder 1330. RS, ST, F3, RT models. Each one has their own set of positives.

    If riding position is paramount, then test rides are recommended to see what fits you best.

    The mechanics on are very complicated because of all the electronic (computer assisted) stuff. I don't recommend trying to modify a manual into an SE--but that is just me.

    Non RT models are more "sporty" in their rides. The RT is more like driving a Gold Wing. Only you will be able to determine what is the perfect ride for you.

    Currently Owned: 2019 F3 Limited, 2020 F3 Limited: SOLD BOTH LIMITEDS in October of 2023.

    Previously : 2008 GS-SM5 (silver), 2009 RS-SE5 (red), 2010 RT-S Premier Editon #474 (black) 2011 RT A&C SE5 (magnesium) 2014 RTS-SE6 (yellow)

    MY FINAL TALLY: 7 Spyders, 15 years, 205,500 miles

    IT HAS BEEN A LONG, WONDERFUL, AND FUN RIDE.
    2020 F3L , Magma Red

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by akspyderman View Post

    The mechanics on are very complicated because of all the electronic (computer assisted) stuff. I don't recommend trying to modify a manual into an SE--but that is just me.

    I wouldn't be trying to modify the manual itself. Just adding an external electric shifter. The transmission would have no idea that it isn't my foot that is shifting. When I spoke with my friend that has the RS-S SE5, he said the shifting preferred to be shifted at higher RPM and would rather have a clutch to work with. So, that's why I am leaning toward the SM5. It opens more doors, and I might be able to find the good deal that I can't pass up.

  10. #10
    Very Active Member ARtraveler's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ions82 View Post
    I wouldn't be trying to modify the manual itself. Just adding an external electric shifter. The transmission would have no idea that it isn't my foot that is shifting. When I spoke with my friend that has the RS-S SE5, he said the shifting preferred to be shifted at higher RPM and would rather have a clutch to work with. So, that's why I am leaning toward the SM5. It opens more doors, and I might be able to find the good deal that I can't pass up.
    My 2008 GS was a manual. I liked that a lot.

    Currently Owned: 2019 F3 Limited, 2020 F3 Limited: SOLD BOTH LIMITEDS in October of 2023.

    Previously : 2008 GS-SM5 (silver), 2009 RS-SE5 (red), 2010 RT-S Premier Editon #474 (black) 2011 RT A&C SE5 (magnesium) 2014 RTS-SE6 (yellow)

    MY FINAL TALLY: 7 Spyders, 15 years, 205,500 miles

    IT HAS BEEN A LONG, WONDERFUL, AND FUN RIDE.
    2020 F3L , Magma Red

  11. #11
    Very Active Member Bfromla's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ions82 View Post
    Good to know. I assume the '10-'12 have a throttle cable.

    I like the aesthetics of the F3, but I feel that the riding position of the RS may be better suited to me as I am a shorter fellow, and I have compromised use of my legs. In comparing the two by sight only, I find myself feeling that the positioning on the RS would allow me to balance and control my body weight with both my arms and my legs. The F3 looks as though it would rely more on the legs. I suppose I could go to a local dealership and test-drive an F3, but I wouldn't feel right as I'd have no intention of buying a new machine. Also, I definitely like the idea of being able to buy an RS for nearly half the cost of an F3.

    In terms of changing an RS from manual to auto... The Translogic system I've got is an external setup that can be added to any motorcycle. It's not the fastest shift on earth, but it gets the job done and is simple/reliable. I am confident that I could easily adapt it to a Spyder (as I did with the dirt bike.) I guess my question is whether an SM5 with the Translogic Powershifter would be better than the SE5. Here's a video of someone that has one on a Harley.

    I should probably test-ride my friend's RS-S, but I've been hesitant to. As I told him, I don't want to get hooked and end up making an impulse buy. I worry that I wouldn't get anything done this year as I'd end up riding it all over the place!
    And sounds like you got your check list right A F3 test ride is well worth it. Get good feel of seat and the ever adjustable U-fit system that the dealer can adjust for each setting to make sure you enjoy. Go ahead & test both the MT&SE The SE is way to go if you can , just easier was very handy for me on toll roads in FL. Or any downtown area with lots of stops. The 998 is tried & true. It does like higher RPM, the 1330 is new and can stay lower RPM Keep eyes out on RS,ST,F3 the better solo riders. Also the SMOOTHSPYDER backrest is a BIG plus Will fit various models & very beneficial to enabled riders. Look here
    http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/f...d-SpyderLovers
    Last edited by Bfromla; 02-26-2016 at 02:41 AM.

    2013 STL SE5 BLACK CURRANT
    SpyderPop's: LED bumpskid
    SmoothSpyder: dualmode back rest
    T r * * LED:foam grip covers, Tricrings, FenderZ,
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    2013 STL , Stock Stock Black currant

  12. #12
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    Default '09 vs. '11

    Are there many differences (both good and/or bad) between an '09 and an '11? Another member suggested keeping an eye out for '10-12. It made me wonder if there are any particular reasons why one might steer toward certain model years. If I understand correctly, '12 and older RS models use a cable-actuated throttle (which appeals to the DIY-repair side of me.) I've been eyeballing a very nice '09 RS and an '11 RS-S. The '09 has a few more miles (and a higher price tag), but it also has a lot of very nice upgrades. Aside from the general differences between an RS and RS-S, is there anything else I should consider between those two years?
    Last edited by ions82; 02-28-2016 at 07:37 PM.

  13. #13
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    The GS/RS is probably the most reliable platform as it has less gizmos and bells/whistles than the other spyder models (easier diy/less to fail). The 08'-12' (first gen) are generally considered more reliable (also have slightly more hp) than the 13'+ (second gen) because the 13'+ use more of the RT components.
    As for first gen (08'-12') Spyders, while they all seem to be pretty bullet proof, the newer the better.....generally... They got more reliable up until 13' with the redesign and things got kinda ugly.

    In my feeble mind I kinda think of them like this: (flame suit on):
    08' most RS issues, cheapest price, but not bad and easily updatable. Most have already been sorted out and are quite good.
    09'-10' better than 08' but only by a smidge and maybe a myth.
    11'-12' pretty much the best of the first gens
    13' avoid like the plague
    14'+ hearing they are better, but the RS is dying and don't see many second gens.


    Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

  14. #14
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    im surprised to read your description of the fit of an RS, i would be careful with that. i am 5'6" and found the RS to be way to much lean forward. When i bought my RS i took it for a test drive and said this is great, then when i got it home and started doing real rides after an hour or so it started to hurt my back. I wound up at first putting risers on it and then eventually getting an RT and its so much more upright and comfortable its not even comparable. I would definitely go sit on an RT before you buy an RS. The 1330 makes the newer RT (14 and up) even more attractive with less maintenance more power, upgraded electrical and of course the radio windsheild, all the storage etc. The F3 with all the u fit adjustmensts (bars and foot pegs can be moved) it can be pretty comfy if you have it set up right but if you want to bring passengers the F3 rear seat is tiny. The RT is best for passengers and storage and bells and whistles. RS is best for more sporty applications like the name implies. The F3 is great for solo riders who dont want the extras. all opinion of course.

  15. #15
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    I see you are from New Mexico. If you are near Roswell, you can come sit on my ST to see if you like the fit. In my experience, the ST is more laid back than the RS. You do not have to reach as far forward to reach the handlebars.

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