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SpyderLovers Founder
Originally Posted by Samir221
Looks like the pipe will need to be drilled, am I right? And if it is the case is there a template that comes with the baffle to determine the place to drill? What tools are needed?
In the picture I show a black mark where I plan on drilling mine. There is nothing critical about the placement. As long as it's deep enough to not interfere with the sealing joints. You just need to drill a 1/4" hole for the bolt.
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Active Member
Originally Posted by Lamonster
I had a long conversation with Jim on this and there is nothing to be gained either way, the back pressure is the same either way according to the owner.
Mahalo Lamont for the quick reply to my question.
Just another crappy day in Paradise....Aloha!
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Originally Posted by Lamonster
In the picture I show a black mark where I plan on drilling mine. There is nothing critical about the placement. As long as it's deep enough to not interfere with the sealing joints. You just need to drill a 1/4" hole for the bolt.
thanks, appreciate the clarification!!!
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Ordered mine from Lamont as big city thunder was snowed in. Can't believe how fast they got it to me. Was able to include it with the sintered brake pads and baja Ron links when Birds of Prey picked up my f3 this morning.
one comment about Birds of Prey in Caldwell.....they are awesome. They pick up and deliver free and provide excellent service.
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SpyderLovers Founder
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Originally Posted by Lamonster
In the picture I show a black mark where I plan on drilling mine. There is nothing critical about the placement. As long as it's deep enough to not interfere with the sealing joints. You just need to drill a 1/4" hole for the bolt.
Is the baffle also drilled or does the bolt hold/wedge it in place?
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Lamont, now that I see the new pictures, I tend to agree with you. From this angle, it looks like it will flow more than I thought. Thanks for the update.
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Very Active Member
Hey Everyone !!!
I have a 2015 RTS. Two Brothers exhaust and Lamont's Cat delete.
I ordered and received the BC Baffle from Lamont.
My question is, what is the sound difference (volume & tone) between the setup I have with the baffle vs without the baffle.
I know I will get better back pressure, that I lost. I like and need that !!!
I like the sound but it's a bit too loud. At highway speed, its hard to hear the radio.
I'm hoping the baffle might take care of that.
Tommy J.
F3L SE5 Black -- F4 windshield w/wings, Reggie LED headlights, driving lights & Cyclops LED, Ultimate seat, Fox shocks, BajaRon swaybar, Lamont highway centerline pegs & 3rd peg, Lamont belt tensioner, K&N air filter, Baker air wings & cup holder, CanAm hitch.
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Very Active Member
SOUNDS
Originally Posted by fireplug98
Hey Everyone !!!
I have a 2015 RTS. Two Brothers exhaust and Lamont's Cat delete.
I ordered and received the BC Baffle from Lamont.
My question is, what is the sound difference (volume & tone) between the setup I have with the baffle vs without the baffle.
I know I will get better back pressure, that I lost. I like and need that !!!
I like the sound but it's a bit too loud. At highway speed, its hard to hear the radio.
I'm hoping the baffle might take care of that.
Tommy J.
..#1. Since you already bought the Baffle after you put it in you will know the answer...................................... #2. On the speakers swap them out for JBL's, they will play clear and clean at least 40 % louder.....PM me for details on what ones.......Mike
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Originally Posted by stebrock
Is the baffle also drilled or does the bolt hold/wedge it in place?
Anyone have the answer?
Thanks, Rick
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When my baffle came the bolt was screwed into the baffle so if I understand your question the answer would be yes. Got my F3 back today and my initial impression is that noise wise it takes the edge off the stock pipe with the cat removed. Was too wet, cold and foggy to ride much but I think I'm going to like it. With the cat removed I thought it was just a tad loud.
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Originally Posted by Mike Ard
When my baffle came the bolt was screwed into the baffle so if I understand your question the answer would be yes. Got my F3 back today and my initial impression is that noise wise it takes the edge off the stock pipe with the cat removed. Was too wet, cold and foggy to ride much but I think I'm going to like it. With the cat removed I thought it was just a tad loud.
Thanks that's what I needed to know.
Rick
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Active Member
I have the 1330 engine with the Lamonster bypass pipe and stock muffler. Thought it was a little raspy sounding and my Wife said she had to turn up the volume on the Sena 20 to hear music.. Purchased the Baffle from Lamonster and installed it last week. Drove the Spyder for 55 miles today and love this combination. It does feel like acceleration from 1000 to 5000 improved. The pipe alone seemed to improve 3000 and up.
Best thing is the sound. It reminds me of the big block 390 motor my 67 t-bird had in the mid 70's with glass pack mufflers. It is a nice bassy tone that just sounds right. It is not overly loud, but is louder then stock. I estimate the baffle cut the noise by 20%. It sounds so nice I lowered the stereo for a while, while banging gears, it sounded awesome, and no more popping on deceleration. If you rev it at idle with no load on the motor it sounds a tiny bit rice burner. However, with load on the motor, it sounds a nice throaty bass note.
Meg and I think the Lamonster Pipe and Lamonster Baffle are the perfect combination for performance and sound for the 1330 motor.
Last edited by SpyderCruiser; 02-21-2016 at 10:25 AM.
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Originally Posted by SpongeBob2015
I installed the cat bypass and I do not like the new sound. It almost sounds like an exhaust leak but it isnt and I still have the stock muffler. It reminds me of those mufflers young kids put on their 4 cylinder cars and they sound like boat motors that needs alot of work. The first time the wife rode with me after installing it, she said, " What is that sound ". I said that is our new exhaust sound. She said why did you do that and I had to give her the same answer that I usually give her which is, ;I dont know ". . Then of course she said, well, that was real smart,,, Would this baffle get rid of that sound and take it back more to the original sound?
Thanks
Yeah, I installed the by-pass pipe and did not like the 2 cycle dirt bike sound and backfire with every shift. I removed the pipe and sold it for $200. Yes, I lost $100 but I just had to try it. I'm currently running stock muffler with converter on my 2015 F3S
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WOW WOW WOW
Installed my baffle this Saturday morning. Sounds good but who cares with the added performance. BIG BIG BIG DIFFERENCE in before and after. I dont know how to put it in mechanical terms but I can Layman's Terms.... FASTER ON THE DRAW. Took it out for a test drive and almost came home with a ticket. I think the LEO was more impressed with the byke to issue me a ticket.
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Active Member
Originally Posted by WIDOWSSON
Installed my baffle this Saturday morning. Sounds good but who cares with the added performance. BIG BIG BIG DIFFERENCE in before and after. I dont know how to put it in mechanical terms but I can Layman's Terms.... FASTER ON THE DRAW. Took it out for a test drive and almost came home with a ticket. I think the LEO was more impressed with the byke to issue me a ticket.
The combo is amazing, huh? Meg says on take off a couple times the rear wheel spun and that was on a solid surface riding 2 up. I was not even trying to spin the wheel. It looks like you purchased your F3 from Atlantic City Cycle Center?
Good Luck,
Louie
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YES
YES. GREAT GUYS OVER THERE. ARE YOU FROM THE AREA?
Originally Posted by SpyderCruiser
The combo is amazing, huh? Meg says on take off a couple times the rear wheel spun and that was on a solid surface riding 2 up. I was not even trying to spin the wheel. It looks like you purchased your F3 from Atlantic City Cycle Center?
Good Luck,
Louie
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Originally Posted by SpyderCruiser
The combo is amazing, huh? Meg says on take off a couple times the rear wheel spun and that was on a solid surface riding 2 up. I was not even trying to spin the wheel. It looks like you purchased your F3 from Atlantic City Cycle Center?
Good Luck,
Louie
Same thing here. Stopped at a stop sign rolled on the throttle hit second and lit up the back tire. I was totally shocked.
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by Mike Ard
Just wondering if the baffle is installed between the cat bypass and the exhaust why you would need to drill anything? It sure can't go anywhere.
I have the same question. Why drill and bolt at all if it can fit between the bypass pipe and muffler, it cant go anywhere and is a much easier install as I don't need to pull those darn springs off and back on. Unless anyone comes up with a good reason why not, I plan to see if it will fit and work this way.
As for the direction of install, yes it will have the same back pressure either way but may indeed sound different. My background in fluid dynamics says that pointed upstream would be a tad bit quieter exhaust note than pointed down stream due to the flow across the cone inward toward itself vs. outward toward tubing wall.
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Very Active Member
Maybe without the bolt, it might rattle ???
Tommy J.
F3L SE5 Black -- F4 windshield w/wings, Reggie LED headlights, driving lights & Cyclops LED, Ultimate seat, Fox shocks, BajaRon swaybar, Lamont highway centerline pegs & 3rd peg, Lamont belt tensioner, K&N air filter, Baker air wings & cup holder, CanAm hitch.
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DRILLING
I questioned the same thing. The pipe is actually bigger than the Baffle. You drill the whole in the pipe, as Lamonster has pointed out, and the screws go thru the pipe to catch the baffle. Without this, the baffle would just get lost inside the pipe. When I get my byke back I will take a picture of the outide, showing the bolt.
Originally Posted by jcthorne
I have the same question. Why drill and bolt at all if it can fit between the bypass pipe and muffler, it cant go anywhere and is a much easier install as I don't need to pull those darn springs off and back on. Unless anyone comes up with a good reason why not, I plan to see if it will fit and work this way.
As for the direction of install, yes it will have the same back pressure either way but may indeed sound different. My background in fluid dynamics says that pointed upstream would be a tad bit quieter exhaust note than pointed down stream due to the flow across the cone inward toward itself vs. outward toward tubing wall.
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PICTURE
LOOK AT THE VERY FIRST PIC IN THIS THREAD. YOU CAN SEE THE PIPE IS BIG ENOUGH FOR THE BAFFLE TO KEEP GOING THRU.
Originally Posted by WIDOWSSON
I questioned the same thing. The pipe is actually bigger than the Baffle. You drill the whole in the pipe, as Lamonster has pointed out, and the screws go thru the pipe to catch the baffle. Without this, the baffle would just get lost inside the pipe. When I get my byke back I will take a picture of the outide, showing the bolt.
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DIRECTION
Sorry for all these posts, but I installed it with the cone facing towards the exhasut. I am anal about symmetry so that's the way I faced mine (just seems like thta force should come thru the bigger end and go out the smaller end.
BTW jcthrone my symmetry annalism is the reason why my byke is currently getting the Elka shocks turned around to their proper position.
Originally Posted by jcthorne
I have the same question. Why drill and bolt at all if it can fit between the bypass pipe and muffler, it cant go anywhere and is a much easier install as I don't need to pull those darn springs off and back on. Unless anyone comes up with a good reason why not, I plan to see if it will fit and work this way.
As for the direction of install, yes it will have the same back pressure either way but may indeed sound different. My background in fluid dynamics says that pointed upstream would be a tad bit quieter exhaust note than pointed down stream due to the flow across the cone inward toward itself vs. outward toward tubing wall.
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by WIDOWSSON
Sorry for all these posts, but I installed it with the cone facing towards the exhasut. I am anal about symmetry so that's the way I faced mine (just seems like thta force should come thru the bigger end and go out the smaller end.
BTW jcthrone my symmetry annalism is the reason why my byke is currently getting the Elka shocks turned around to their proper position.
I do not think there is a 'right' or 'wrong' installation direction. Multi orifice control valves are almost always installed such that flow goes from outside the trim toward the inside so that the flow impinges on itself rather than the pipe. Just my background being applied where it really does not matter.
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