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  1. #1
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    Default Drain plug Specs

    Good morning to all on the site!
    We (wife) just purchased a 2014 RT-S. She loves it!! I, being the gear head in the family, will be the one changing the oil and stuff not warranty related. My question is, what is the size and thread pitch of the drain plug(s) on the 3 cyl. motor? I'd like to install a Fumoto quick change drain valve to ease the oil change process. I've watched the video and can see that, if not done properly, will result in a big mess and unhappy wifey!! So if someone could share the info or specs on the drain plugs I'll share my info on which qiuck drain plug to use.
    Thanks in advance for any help
    Larry in East China Mi.

  2. #2
    Active Member nslowmotion's Avatar
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    M14X1.5 ENGINE PLUG
    M12X1.5X12 TRANSMISSION PLUG
    but one of these is not your normal drain plug, I think it is the transmission, it has several stages on it with a couple of o-rings.
    http://www.drainplugmagnets.com/canamspyder.php

    Last edited by nslowmotion; 09-07-2015 at 09:47 AM.

  3. #3
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    Default Tough one..!!

    old twins were 12x1.50 and 14x1.50 but the new triple has one long plug with two o-rings and the crush washer which you may not find in a quick release. You can check them out on cheapcycleparts.com oem parts list...price on that puppy is $33.95... didn't check for others....
    2012 RS sm5 , 998cc V-Twin 106hp DIY brake and park brake Classic Black

  4. #4
    Very Active Member Highwayman2013's Avatar
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    2016 F3 Limited
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    2016 F 3 Limited , Vegas White

  5. #5
    Active Member Doc - Riverside's Avatar
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    Default RT oil plugs

    Quote Originally Posted by firea100 View Post
    Good morning to all on the site!
    We (wife) just purchased a 2014 RT-S. She loves it!! I, being the gear head in the family, will be the one changing the oil and stuff not warranty related. My question is, what is the size and thread pitch of the drain plug(s) on the 3 cyl. motor? I'd like to install a Fumoto quick change drain valve to ease the oil change process. I've watched the video and can see that, if not done properly, will result in a big mess and unhappy wifey!! So if someone could share the info or specs on the drain plugs I'll share my info on which qiuck drain plug to use.
    Thanks in advance for any help
    Larry in East China Mi.
    The Quick Drain plug will work for the transmission but the drain plug for the engine is quit long and has a set if O-rings installed. To me the O-rings imply that that there may be a secondary oil passage that is located between the two O-rings. You need to find out the reason for the two O-rings before you use the Quick Change plug.

  6. #6
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    I ordered Gold Drain plugs for my 2014... dealer installed them at 3000 mile check...

    osm

  7. #7
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    Thank you ALL for the replies! I will find out what the purpose of the "o"rings are and report back to the forum. After watching the video on changing oil, WOW, there has to be a better, less messy way to do this. Even having someone turn an adapter to allow use of the "o"rings would be worth the time and mess saved!
    Thanks Again,
    Larry Gill in East China Mi.

  8. #8
    Very Active Member JayBros's Avatar
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    I personally would be very leery about using a Fumoto style drain valve. The Spyder has little enough ground clearance and adding a valve that protrudes downward reduces the clearance even more. The oil sump is an aluminum casting and an object in the road striking the valve at speed could result in catastrophic failure of the sump casting. Not worth the risk IMO.

    The worst part of doing an oil change is getting the two plugs out with that very hot oil running over your hand but I don't find it as messy as Shawn Smoak leads one to believe. YMMV.
    Artillery lends dignity to what would
    otherwise be a vulgar brawl.
    ******************************
    Cognac 2014 RT-S

  9. #9
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    I guess maybe I should try an oil change once and see how it goes before I do anything.

  10. #10
    Very Active Member JayBros's Avatar
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    The manual says to have the Spyder on level ground. I personally ran the front wheels up on a pair of car ramps. If you look then at the location of the oil plugs you will see that they are at the aft end of the transversely mounted engine so the oil is going to drain our very well and you will have more room to get drain pan under bike and work on the plugs. Remember, left one, the oil sump, is T45 Torx and right, clutch cover, is 6 mm Allen, both of which are flush thereby protecting them. This is where either Gold plugs or Dimple plugs have an advantage in that once you break the plug free you have a head to grab rather than trying to keep a tool in place with hot oil douching your hand as you try to get the plug out with everything slippery as deer guts on a door knob.

    Let the engine drain as long as you like. I do lunch and that's long enough to get all the oil out. My dealer tech doesn't let it drain that long and it seemed to be fine. When you refill the engine with 5 gt of oil it will bring the oil level to the Min line on dipstick when hot. There is way more than adequate oil in the engine for the oil pressure check at start up with it on the ramps but you could push it off before starting if you wanted to be sure. I then back it off the ramps to let it fully warm up and do the level check.
    Artillery lends dignity to what would
    otherwise be a vulgar brawl.
    ******************************
    Cognac 2014 RT-S

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