-
BRP got it right!!
I got my bike back from having the recall done last week and I finally got a chance to ride it today. WOW what a difference!! I never had an extreme issue with the heat, but there was def some heat. Now after the recall...here are my observations... the heat is gone! the glove box is actually cool to the touch inside. I have Corbin seat with the fuel door and the heat used to pour out of that door... Now it is cool. The bike has a little more mid-range power and, for some reason, it seems to shift smoother...although that makes no sense. I loved this bike from the day I first got on it... NOW I am even more in love with it!! Well done BRP
Jonny
-
Same experience I had . . . there was an update to the nanny computer . . . that could account for the smoother shifting
-
Very Active Member
-
Great news..!!
glad to hear that even those without the great heat issue can see such a difference. thanks for posting....
2012 RS sm5 , 998cc V-Twin 106hp DIY brake and park brake Classic Black
-
-
-
2014 grill cut to fit will fix that
-
Originally Posted by Magdave
2014 grill cut to fit will fix that
Yes, I've considered installing the 2014 grill, and I've considered cutting holes in the under plates and skid-guard plastic so that I can put a metal sheet behind that 2014 grill and completely block the air flow. But I think that directing more hot air under the bike will exacerbate the problem of heat coming out from under the bike and onto the footrests (mine and the passenger's). I believe there should be a sufficient exit point somewhere behind the passenger footrest to draw the heat out from under the bike and direct it away. As it is now, heat bottlenecks at the middle of the bike and cooks the riders. There's still a heat trap under the tupperware.
I'm considering adding heat reflecting, self-adhesive material to the back of all the body panels. I'm also going to investigate putting a thermostatically controlled fan that points downward and will force heat out of the heat trap. There may be room where the battery used to be (under the seat in earlier models). If that doesn't work, I may create a v-shaped vent into the rear wheel well. I've got to get that excess heat out and direct it towards the rear of the bike so that the air flow will work to my advantage.
-
Originally Posted by dsoileau
Yes, I've considered installing the 2014 grill, and I've considered cutting holes in the under plates and skid-guard plastic so that I can put a metal sheet behind that 2014 grill and completely block the air flow. But I think that directing more hot air under the bike will exacerbate the problem of heat coming out from under the bike and onto the footrests (mine and the passenger's). I believe there should be a sufficient exit point somewhere behind the passenger footrest to draw the heat out from under the bike and direct it away. As it is now, heat bottlenecks at the middle of the bike and cooks the riders. There's still a heat trap under the tupperware.
I'm considering adding heat reflecting, self-adhesive material to the back of all the body panels. I'm also going to investigate putting a thermostatically controlled fan that points downward and will force heat out of the heat trap. There may be room where the battery used to be (under the seat in earlier models). If that doesn't work, I may create a v-shaped vent into the rear wheel well. I've got to get that excess heat out and direct it towards the rear of the bike so that the air flow will work to my advantage.
Heat wrap exhaust headers, remove the cat converter and install bypass. This will greatly reduce heat coming from underneath. 2014 grill will reduce right foot heat. Bike will also run much better.
-
Very Active Member
Originally Posted by dsoileau
Has anyone had a similar experience? Does anyone have a solution for directing the heat somewhere other than at the floorboards and rear footrests on the RT-S?
My solution:
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/s...ght=heat+block
Plus see post 21 here:
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/s...TL-POST-RECALL
2014 Copper RTS
Tri-Axis bars, CB, BajaRon sway bar & shock adjusters, SpyderPop's Bumpskid, NBV peg brackets, LED headlights and modulator, Wolo trumpet air horns, trailer hitch, custom trailer harness, high mount turn signals, Custom Dynamics brake light, LED turn signal lights on mirrors, LED strip light for a dash light, garage door opener, LED lights in frunk, trunk, and saddlebags, RAM mounts and cradles for tablet (for GPS) and phone (for music), and Smooth Spyder belt tensioner.
-
Very Active Member
Originally Posted by Magdave
2014 grill cut to fit will fix that
You do not need to modify the 2014 part to fit. The tab on the right that you removed is fastened with one of the plastic pop rivet fasteners. It fits as designed if assembled in the correct order.
We also mostly blocked the upper grille area with black mesh cloth. All the heat goes out the bottom now. Much better.
-
Originally Posted by jcthorne
You do not need to modify the 2014 part to fit. The tab on the right that you removed is fastened with one of the plastic pop rivet fasteners. It fits as designed if assembled in the correct order.
We also mostly blocked the upper grille area with black mesh cloth. All the heat goes out the bottom now. Much better.
I modified it for easy install or removal and to allow the bottom to be a flap door
Posting Permissions
- You may not post new threads
- You may not post replies
- You may not post attachments
- You may not edit your posts
-
Forum Rules
|