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Starting a Spyder off of a battery booster
I purchased a Rugged Geek Boost starter recommended by Lamonster. I could not get it to start my 2013 ST-L. I contacted Rugged Geek and they sent me another one. It too will not turn over the Sypder engine but it will start my F-150. I have hooked it up to the jump points on the LHS and have tried direct off the battery. Neither works.
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This video is with the battery disconnected. Any suggestions?
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I have a genius jump starter......
If the battery is 100% dead I have to put the unit into manual mode. Check the user instructions. Good luck.
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Very Active Member
Are you sure it's a dead battery and not something else?
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Very Active Member
Mine does the same thing. But if you hook up the jump cables and wait for 1 minute maybe 2. It will start right up.
2018 F3 LIMITED
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Agreed....
it's a download thing... seems all these smart batteries etc need to recognize what your doing or at least in what direction you are going.....
2012 RS sm5 , 998cc V-Twin 106hp DIY brake and park brake Classic Black
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Originally Posted by billybovine
Mine does the same thing. But if you hook up the jump cables and wait for 1 minute maybe 2. It will start right up.
I just tried this, both with the battery disconnected and the key on and then with the key off and the Rugged Geek Booster won't even turn the engine over once.
I have a brand new battery so I have to disconnect the battery to simulate a "bad" battery to test the booster.
This all started when I was installing some TricLed lights. I had the key on too much testing the lights and wore the battery down. I thought it would be a great test for my new, never tried battery booster. Hooked it up and it wouldn't crank it over. Since then I have installed a new battery but I don't trust this particular booster for when I ever need it. What is weird is it will crank my truck but not my little spyder.
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Originally Posted by scubadown
I have a brand new battery so I have to disconnect the battery to simulate a "bad" battery to test the booster.
No, that simulates a MISSING battery; it's not the same thing.
In the "boost" mode and without a battery in place the unit may be designed to NOT work on purpose.
Without a battery, VERY high and potentially damaging voltages could be produced.
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Originally Posted by Easy Rider
No, that simulates a MISSING battery; it's not the same thing.
In the "boost" mode and without a battery in place the unit may be designed to NOT work on purpose.
Without a battery, VERY high and potentially damaging voltages could be produced.
Well it didn't crank it with a dead battery either.
How can you check a battery booster if you have a good battery without disconnecting the vehicle battery?
Last edited by scubadown; 03-14-2018 at 05:04 PM.
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Originally Posted by scubadown
Well it didn't crank it with a dead battery either.
How can you check a battery booster if you have a good battery without disconnecting the vehicle battery?
How DEAD was it......and why ??
I guess the answer is: You find a weak battery to test it with.
You can't jump a vehicle in ALL situations, especially with an electronically controlled "charger".
Better to try an actual second good battery like the traditional method of "jumping".
When you make that second connection, the size of the spark can tell you a lot; a HUGE spark tells you that there likely is a short somewhere and you'd better disconnect the cables. Absolutely no spark tells you that the original battery is OPEN but the "traditional" jump should still work. The engine might die when you disconnect the cable though.
I personally think that a portable "jump pack" is better to have in reserve than a charger with a "start" position, mostly because of the difficulty that you are having. Also because they work without plugging into AC power.
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Active Member
Ray & Marci
Tenino, WA
2014RTL Cognac
ALWAYS ride 2 up.
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Yeah I know what you mean. The first use of my Rugged was with a dead battery and it wouldn't crank it over. Charged the battery for about an hour and the bike started fine. Can not get the Rugged to start it by disconnecting the hot lead to the battery.
Soon, I am going to try using jumper cables from my car to see if that will start it.
Does anyone have a battery booster that works on a Spyder?
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Originally Posted by teninospyder
OK....after reading these posts I'm a little confused on "how" to test my "Rugged" jumper -
What exactly IS a "Rugged" jumper ?
If it IS a battery.....and you REALLY think that you need to do a live test.....connect it INSTEAD of your battery.
Most of this discussion has been about a charger/booster piece of equipment.
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Originally Posted by scubadown
Does anyone have a battery booster that works on a Spyder?
I have a portable jump pack that starts my motor home. Pretty sure it will work on almost anything.
So.....the answer to that depends in large part on exactly what KIND of "booster" you are talking about.
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Originally Posted by Easy Rider
What exactly IS a "Rugged" jumper ?
If it IS a battery.....and you REALLY think that you need to do a live test.....connect it INSTEAD of your battery.
Most of this discussion has been about a charger/booster piece of equipment.
I find it more constructive to give advice when I actually know what the questioner is referring to.
After I know what he's talking about it is easier to give useful advice rather than just prattle.
https://ruggedgeek.com/collections/a...e-power-supply
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Originally Posted by Easy Rider
Good for you.....providing the link, that is. The rest of your post is just "prattle".
The device in the link is too smart for it's own good, probably, and likely won't actually connect if it sees no battery or one that is outside of "acceptable" parameters.
That is why I prefer a portable "dumb" battery in most situations.
takes a prattler to know a prattler
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by Easy Rider
No, that simulates a MISSING battery; it's not the same thing.
In the "boost" mode and without a battery in place the unit may be designed to NOT work on purpose.
Without a battery, VERY high and potentially damaging voltages could be produced.
Easy Rider, OFDave is 100% correct. How can you provide advice without even knowing what a “Rugged Jumper” is?
The advice you are providing everyone is incorrect. The Rugged Geek is designed to start the bike if you remove the battery. It is what Rugged Geek recommend as a test to see if your Rugged Geek is working. You do NOT get very high and potentially damaging voltages as the Rugged Geek covers that.
Pete
Harrington, Australia
2021 RT Limited
Setup for Tall & Big.... 200cm/6'7", 140kg/300lbs, 37"inleg.
HeliBars Handlebars
Brake rubber removed to lower pedal for easier long leg/Size 15 EEEEW boot access.
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Russell Daylong seat 2” taller than stock (in Sunbrella for Aussie heat & water resistance)
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Kenda Kanine rear.
2021 RT Limited , Brake pedal rubber removed for ease of accessing pedal with size 15 boots. Red
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Originally Posted by scubadown
Yeah I know what you mean. The first use of my Rugged was with a dead battery and it wouldn't crank it over. Charged the battery for about an hour and the bike started fine. Can not get the Rugged to start it by disconnecting the hot lead to the battery.
Soon, I am going to try using jumper cables from my car to see if that will start it.
Does anyone have a battery booster that works on a Spyder?
Yes, I have one, Scubadown. It’s called a Rugged Geek. I thought mine wasn’t working either and got a replacement. It wouldn’t work either, on my Spyder or 4WD. I spoke to Rugged Geek to told me to remove my battery and connect the Geek direct. Guess what, it worked a treat on both vehicles.
If yours is still not working even with the battery out there is either a unit problem (most unlikely both would be faulty) or some kind of operator or configuration problem. I’ll have a hunt for the email Rugged Geek sent me asap.
Pete
Harrington, Australia
2021 RT Limited
Setup for Tall & Big.... 200cm/6'7", 140kg/300lbs, 37"inleg.
HeliBars Handlebars
Brake rubber removed to lower pedal for easier long leg/Size 15 EEEEW boot access.
Ikon (Aussie) shocks all round.
Russell Daylong seat 2” taller than stock (in Sunbrella for Aussie heat & water resistance)
Goodyear Duragrip 165/60 fronts (18psi) - provides extra 1/2” ground clearance.
Kenda Kanine rear.
2021 RT Limited , Brake pedal rubber removed for ease of accessing pedal with size 15 boots. Red
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Very Active Member
The is the reply from Rugged Geek that helped me get mine going, scubadown. There might be something in here that helps. Otherwise call or email them direct. They are pretty helpful.
Peter,
Thank you for the additional information. Here are a couple points that may help us solve the problem:
- It does not work to test these cables on vehicles with fully charged batteries. The way the Intelli cables work is they will sense for a dead or low battery and transmit power only once that’s sensed. The max voltage on our jump starter when fully charged is approximately 12.6V, however a fully charged vehicle battery could be as high as 13V or more. So if you connect our jump starter to a fully charged vehicle battery, it won’t allow power to flow since doing so would only mean power would flow from the higher voltage source (car battery) to the lower voltage source (jump starter) which would be dangerous as you don’t want power flowing back into the jump starter unless it is through the charging port. So for the 2 Hyundai vehicles, this is likely what’s happening and it is doing as designed here. A better test here, and one we do often, is to disconnect the vehicle batteries completely and connect the jump starter direct to the battery wires from the vehicle.
- As for jump starting your Spyder: In this scenario, it should have worked for you, but my question here is: Did you try starting the bike, or did you not try as the light hadn’t gone green? In certain cases the accessory draw isn’t enough to turn the light green, especially if the battery on the bike/vehicle still has some charge as the accessories are likely being powered by that. That said, as soon as you hit the starter button, the draw from the starter motor should make the jump starter kick in and provide the power needed. In other words, the light doesn’t have to turn green to use the jump starter, just connect it as you would and start the bike/vehicle. The draw from that will be enough to kick it in and it should work for you.
I would this helps explain the situation. The intelliboost cables work great in 99% of situations, but with batteries that are partially or fully charged, the green light can sometimes lead to confusion as it won’t come until the starter is engaged due to the vehicle batteries powering the accessories. We will be updating our manual to better explain this, but I hope this email helps.
Please let me know if there is anything further I can help with,
Thank you again,
Samantha
Harrington, Australia
2021 RT Limited
Setup for Tall & Big.... 200cm/6'7", 140kg/300lbs, 37"inleg.
HeliBars Handlebars
Brake rubber removed to lower pedal for easier long leg/Size 15 EEEEW boot access.
Ikon (Aussie) shocks all round.
Russell Daylong seat 2” taller than stock (in Sunbrella for Aussie heat & water resistance)
Goodyear Duragrip 165/60 fronts (18psi) - provides extra 1/2” ground clearance.
Kenda Kanine rear.
2021 RT Limited , Brake pedal rubber removed for ease of accessing pedal with size 15 boots. Red
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Active Member
Thanks for this information on my "Rugged" Jump Starter
Originally Posted by Peteoz
The is the reply from Rugged Geek that helped me get mine going, scubadown. There might be something in here that helps. Otherwise call or email them direct. They are pretty helpful.
Peter,
Thank you for the additional information. Here are a couple points that may help us solve the problem:
- It does not work to test these cables on vehicles with fully charged batteries. The way the Intelli cables work is they will sense for a dead or low battery and transmit power only once that’s sensed. The max voltage on our jump starter when fully charged is approximately 12.6V, however a fully charged vehicle battery could be as high as 13V or more. So if you connect our jump starter to a fully charged vehicle battery, it won’t allow power to flow since doing so would only mean power would flow from the higher voltage source (car battery) to the lower voltage source (jump starter) which would be dangerous as you don’t want power flowing back into the jump starter unless it is through the charging port. So for the 2 Hyundai vehicles, this is likely what’s happening and it is doing as designed here. A better test here, and one we do often, is to disconnect the vehicle batteries completely and connect the jump starter direct to the battery wires from the vehicle.
- As for jump starting your Spyder: In this scenario, it should have worked for you, but my question here is: Did you try starting the bike, or did you not try as the light hadn’t gone green? In certain cases the accessory draw isn’t enough to turn the light green, especially if the battery on the bike/vehicle still has some charge as the accessories are likely being powered by that. That said, as soon as you hit the starter button, the draw from the starter motor should make the jump starter kick in and provide the power needed. In other words, the light doesn’t have to turn green to use the jump starter, just connect it as you would and start the bike/vehicle. The draw from that will be enough to kick it in and it should work for you.
I would this helps explain the situation. The intelliboost cables work great in 99% of situations, but with batteries that are partially or fully charged, the green light can sometimes lead to confusion as it won’t come until the starter is engaged due to the vehicle batteries powering the accessories. We will be updating our manual to better explain this, but I hope this email helps.
Please let me know if there is anything further I can help with,
Thank you again,
Samantha
Appreciate this info. SORRY to the guy who didn't know what "jump starter" I was referring too in my post earlier. From his "kind words" I would have expected better. Anyway....others obviously knew what I was asking about.
Ray & Marci
Tenino, WA
2014RTL Cognac
ALWAYS ride 2 up.
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Active Member
Interesting thread... I got a Genius booster for Xmas, and charged it up. I thought today it was time to see if it was still charged. I plugged it in and the green light kept blinking. Not knowing, I just let it go. After 20-30 min. It stopped blinking and stayed lit. So it looks like you should charge these things every few weeks just to make sure there at full capacity!
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[QUOTE=Spyderglide;1344159]Interesting thread... I got a Genius booster for Xmas, and charged it up. I thought today it was time to see if it was still charged. I plugged it in and the green light kept blinking. Not knowing, I just let it go. After 20-30 min. It stopped blinking and stayed lit. So it looks like you should charge these things every few weeks just to make sure there at full capacity![/QUOTE]
I have found that once charged to 100% my Rugged Geek stays at 100% for several months while being stored in my car or Spyder. (it has a small screen & shows % charge)
2008 GS SM5, Full Moon Silver
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Very Active Member
I have a Genius GB20, the lowest capacity one.
I carried it in the Spyder for the better part of 2 months last summer without ever recharging it.
When it came time to use it, it started the two-wheeler of a friend 3 times in the same day.
Of course, I recharged it that evening.
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Originally Posted by Peteoz
. How can you provide advice without even knowing what a “Rugged Jumper” is?
The advice you are providing everyone is incorrect.
Because 50 years of working in the industry tells me how things like that work......in general.
What I said is NOT incorrect......in general.
If nothing else, my posts kept the thread "alive" while waiting for better answers.
So maybe you could explain why he is doing what they said to test it and it is NOT working ??
THAT was the purpose of his post, after all.
Edit: I see that you have done that now. I hope it helps him out.
Last edited by Easy Rider; 03-17-2018 at 09:44 AM.
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