2012 RS check engine/transmission light.

[blacklightning]

The check engine light came on, followed by a message to check transmission. Bike now will good up in gears, but will not downshift. What could be wrong? It has the SE transmission. Could oil level be the problem, and if BRP oil is not an option right now, what bike oil can I get from advance auto to try?

[Brettssunshine]

Check your oil. I used the correct weight motorcycle oil from the local auto zone.

[blacklightning]

Check your oil. I used the correct weight motorcycle oil from the local auto zone.

What weight should I be using?

[blacklightning]

OK, I called my local dealer and he said to get either a synthetic blend, or full synthetic. I purchased the oil and started the bike to bring it up to operating temp. No lights, and everything shifted like it should. I checked the oil, and it appeared to be on the low side. So, I added a little less than 1/2 qt. Seems fine. Tomorrow the temps are going to be in the 70's, so I will take it out for a test drive.
Thanks for the help and comments.

[Bob Denman]

If an SE-equipped Spyder is a little bit low on oil; it will often let you know about it, by not shifting correctly...
Good luck with your test ride!

[Chupaca]

Low oil, especially in the SE models, will make the shifting work in funny ways. I use the XPS blend from BRP but you can get other oils like Amsoil and others. As long as they meet the spec's in your manual they will work fine. Make sure you check your oil level about every 500 miles though I just check it after a long ryde and top it off. These big V-twins do use oil....

[Dan-Am]

... if it happens again, pull the code BEFORE YOU SHUT IT OFF. Post the code here and members will identify the problem. There are instructions on the forum how to pull the code if you are unsure. Some RS models have experienced shifter switch failures which requires a replacement switch.

[ingramwc]

I hope your problem is fixed by now. My transmission was shifting strangely, I checked the oil, it was way low!! Added AMSOIL 10W-40 motorcycle oil (full synthetic), works great, tranny shifts smoothly and shifts are very positive especially at WOT!!!!! Love the result!!!!

[blacklightning]

After having the diagnosis and filter replaced Thursday, I got a chance to give my spyder a try Friday morning. Unfortunately the filter change did not take care of my problem. The item that they had hoped would not be the case (shift sylinoid) is in fact the problem. He stated that the filter change was necessary, but did not fix the problem. This puts things into a new price category. Seems like we are looking at about $850 for the replacement piece, and labor. He was able to give me a small discount on the cost of the piece, but it still stings. They are ordering the piece today, and they will let me know when it arrives. I will update you on how things go from there.
For the people in the know, does this sound correct, and is the pricing about right? He was able to give me a 10% discount on the $600+ part, but it still seems a little steep. I guess things are just expensive for these bikes.

[blacklightning]

Just talked to the dealer again. They are going to make room so that I can leave the bike overnight so they can see first hand the issue with early morning start ups. I hope this can be done and over with in a little while. Guess my dreams of getting this over with for under $500 is shot.
Again, if anyone has had this issue, or know someone who has, please chime in. They say that it is not the switch on the handle bar for sure, because it only does it when it is first started, not any other time.

[kep-up]

I am not a dealer, but I also had the same problem. Thought it would be the shifter, but decided to replace the switch instead. 7,000 miles later it's still working. Do what you want, but the switch is way less costly, and if that doesn't work, then go the expensive route. Just my humble opinion.

[blacklightning]

I am not a dealer, but I also had the same problem. Thought it would be the shifter, but decided to replace the switch instead. 7,000 miles later it's still working. Do what you want, but the switch is way less costly, and if that doesn't work, then go the expensive route. Just my humble opinion.

Thanks. I was actually thinking along those same lines, but the dealership assured me that the code on the Budds system says that it is the solenoid and not the switch itself. I will be taking it into the dealer later this morning to discuss things with him a little more. Wish me luck.