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  1. #1
    Very Active Member blacklightning's Avatar
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    Default 2012 RS check engine/transmission light.

    The check engine light came on, followed by a message to check transmission. Bike now will good up in gears, but will not downshift. What could be wrong? It has the SE transmission. Could oil level be the problem, and if BRP oil is not an option right now, what bike oil can I get from advance auto to try?
    2021 RTL , brake pedal from "Web Boards" chalk white

  2. #2
    Active Member Brettssunshine's Avatar
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    Check your oil. I used the correct weight motorcycle oil from the local auto zone.


    2015 F3-S SE6

  3. #3
    Very Active Member blacklightning's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brettssunshine View Post
    Check your oil. I used the correct weight motorcycle oil from the local auto zone.
    What weight should I be using?
    2021 RTL , brake pedal from "Web Boards" chalk white

  4. #4
    Very Active Member blacklightning's Avatar
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    OK, I called my local dealer and he said to get either a synthetic blend, or full synthetic. I purchased the oil and started the bike to bring it up to operating temp. No lights, and everything shifted like it should. I checked the oil, and it appeared to be on the low side. So, I added a little less than 1/2 qt. Seems fine. Tomorrow the temps are going to be in the 70's, so I will take it out for a test drive.
    Thanks for the help and comments.
    2021 RTL , brake pedal from "Web Boards" chalk white

  5. #5
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    If an SE-equipped Spyder is a little bit low on oil; it will often let you know about it, by not shifting correctly...
    Good luck with your test ride!
    2010 RT A&C, RT-L, RT-L , Orbital Blue, Cognac, Jet Black

  6. #6
    Very Active Member Chupaca's Avatar
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    Default That will do it....

    Low oil, especially in the SE models, will make the shifting work in funny ways. I use the XPS blend from BRP but you can get other oils like Amsoil and others. As long as they meet the spec's in your manual they will work fine. Make sure you check your oil level about every 500 miles though I just check it after a long ryde and top it off. These big V-twins do use oil....
    Gene and Ilana De Laney
    Mt. Helix, California

    ​2012 RS sm5
    2012 RS sm5 , 998cc V-Twin 106hp DIY brake and park brake Classic Black

  7. #7
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    Default After you are sure the oil level is correct....

    ... if it happens again, pull the code BEFORE YOU SHUT IT OFF. Post the code here and members will identify the problem. There are instructions on the forum how to pull the code if you are unsure. Some RS models have experienced shifter switch failures which requires a replacement switch.

  8. #8
    Very Active Member blacklightning's Avatar
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    Thanks everyone for the advice. I rode from the Raleigh, NC area, to Carolina Beach, NC on Saturday. It was a total of about 300 miles. Never had anymore trouble. I will keep an eye on the oil level from this moment on.

    Keith
    2021 RTL , brake pedal from "Web Boards" chalk white

  9. #9
    Very Active Member blacklightning's Avatar
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    Well, I got ready to take the bike out again today, and got the check engine light, and check transmission message. I removed the key, and tried again after 10 minutes and everything was fine. I am not sure what is going on, but this has happened twice. I plan on taking it to the dealer in the next week or so to see if there is a serious problem.
    2021 RTL , brake pedal from "Web Boards" chalk white

  10. #10
    Very Active Member GOZFST's Avatar
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    How long has it been since the oil and filters have been changed?
    Bob S

  11. #11
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    My guess is your paddle shifter is going bad. The exact same thigh happened to my 2012 RS and it was the paddle shifter. I rode the bike like 1200 with the issue. Pull the code yourself or take it to a dealer to pull the code. That will tell you whats wrong.

    The paddle shifter going bad is a known issue on the 2012.Its easy to fix really, just replace the paddle.

  12. #12
    Very Active Member blacklightning's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GOZFST View Post
    How long has it been since the oil and filters have been changed?
    They were both changed only about 5-600 miles ago.
    2021 RTL , brake pedal from "Web Boards" chalk white

  13. #13
    Very Active Member blacklightning's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rob Rodriguez View Post
    My guess is your paddle shifter is going bad. The exact same thigh happened to my 2012 RS and it was the paddle shifter. I rode the bike like 1200 with the issue. Pull the code yourself or take it to a dealer to pull the code. That will tell you whats wrong.

    The paddle shifter going bad is a known issue on the 2012.Its easy to fix really, just replace the paddle.
    Thanks,
    I just downloaded the spyder codes app. Now I guess I just need to wait until it does it again and try to pull the code. If it is the paddle shifter going bad, is it something that an experienced person (like myself) should tackle, or should I let a dealer handle it? What type of cost would I be looking at? I am really starting to like this RS, but after having a drama free 2014 RT for 2 years, this has me concerned. How lackly would it be that this issue would have me stranded? Whenever it has happened, it usually corrects itself after about 10 minutes. My RT had the DESS error for about a year, and I got accustomed to it, but was never afraid of being stranded. Not knowing the RS, I am a little worried.
    2021 RTL , brake pedal from "Web Boards" chalk white

  14. #14
    Very Active Member blacklightning's Avatar
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    Today I had an appointment to have my 2012 RSS looked at. It would shift up (most times), but would refuse to shift down until after it had run for about 15-20 minutes. I had checked the oil level, and tried to pull the codes using the spyder codes app. After the initial 15-20 minutes, it would be fine the rest of the day. Well they put the bike on the computer and checked everything over after pulling the fault codes. Seems like the culprit might be that the previous owner changed oil, but did not change the transmission filter (a common thing since body work has to come off to do it). They changed this item out and test rode the bike. They are pretty sure this fixed the issue but said if it continued, call them and they would change out the only other possible item (switch at shifter). They explained everything to me and I was very happy with their expert service. I just wanted to say that I do not like or trust taking my car, truck, spyder to any dealership, but these guys have always treated me as a first class customer, even though I have never purchased a new or used bike from them.
    BTW, this was Sports Durst in Durham (Formerly Triangle Cycles). I may be cursing them at a later date, but for the past 2+ years, they have been on point with my 2014 RT, and I hope to continue this relationship with them on my 2012 RSS.
    2021 RTL , brake pedal from "Web Boards" chalk white

  15. #15
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    I'm glad to hear that they think that they've found and fixed the problem.
    Here's to hoping that they are 100% correct!
    2010 RT A&C, RT-L, RT-L , Orbital Blue, Cognac, Jet Black

  16. #16
    Very Active Member blacklightning's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bob Denman View Post
    I'm glad to hear that they think that they've found and fixed the problem.
    Here's to hoping that they are 100% correct!
    Well Bob, they were not quite 100% right. I tried the bike this morning, and got the same situation (shifts up, but not down). I called the dealership and they said they would order the switch and getting it installed next week.
    2021 RTL , brake pedal from "Web Boards" chalk white

  17. #17
    Very Active Member Ron2andia's Avatar
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    Good luck hope that fixes your problem.
    Live, Love, and Ride! God Bless!

  18. #18
    Very Active Member ingramwc's Avatar
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    I hope your problem is fixed by now. My transmission was shifting strangely, I checked the oil, it was way low!! Added AMSOIL 10W-40 motorcycle oil (full synthetic), works great, tranny shifts smoothly and shifts are very positive especially at WOT!!!!! Love the result!!!!
    Current ride: 2013 Circuit Yellow ST-S SE5

  19. #19
    Very Active Member blacklightning's Avatar
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    After having the diagnosis and filter replaced Thursday, I got a chance to give my spyder a try Friday morning. Unfortunately the filter change did not take care of my problem. The item that they had hoped would not be the case (shift sylinoid) is in fact the problem. He stated that the filter change was necessary, but did not fix the problem. This puts things into a new price category. Seems like we are looking at about $850 for the replacement piece, and labor. He was able to give me a small discount on the cost of the piece, but it still stings. They are ordering the piece today, and they will let me know when it arrives. I will update you on how things go from there.
    For the people in the know, does this sound correct, and is the pricing about right? He was able to give me a 10% discount on the $600+ part, but it still seems a little steep. I guess things are just expensive for these bikes.
    2021 RTL , brake pedal from "Web Boards" chalk white

  20. #20
    Very Active Member blacklightning's Avatar
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    Just talked to the dealer again. They are going to make room so that I can leave the bike overnight so they can see first hand the issue with early morning start ups. I hope this can be done and over with in a little while. Guess my dreams of getting this over with for under $500 is shot.
    Again, if anyone has had this issue, or know someone who has, please chime in. They say that it is not the switch on the handle bar for sure, because it only does it when it is first started, not any other time.
    2021 RTL , brake pedal from "Web Boards" chalk white

  21. #21
    Very Active Member kep-up's Avatar
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    I am not a dealer, but I also had the same problem. Thought it would be the shifter, but decided to replace the switch instead. 7,000 miles later it's still working. Do what you want, but the switch is way less costly, and if that doesn't work, then go the expensive route. Just my humble opinion.

  22. #22
    Very Active Member blacklightning's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kep-up View Post
    I am not a dealer, but I also had the same problem. Thought it would be the shifter, but decided to replace the switch instead. 7,000 miles later it's still working. Do what you want, but the switch is way less costly, and if that doesn't work, then go the expensive route. Just my humble opinion.
    Thanks. I was actually thinking along those same lines, but the dealership assured me that the code on the Budds system says that it is the solenoid and not the switch itself. I will be taking it into the dealer later this morning to discuss things with him a little more. Wish me luck.
    2021 RTL , brake pedal from "Web Boards" chalk white

  23. #23
    Very Active Member blacklightning's Avatar
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    I dropped the bike off at the dealership this morning. According to them the budds report shows it to be the selonoid that is the problem. I mentioned to them, again, how there were some 2012's that had issues with the switch on the handle bars. He checked the record and it actually showed that the switch had been changed under warranty earlier. He says that they will check everything again to make sure that the problem is the selonoid. They also will be able to get first hand knowledge of the condition by checking it tomorrow morning.
    2021 RTL , brake pedal from "Web Boards" chalk white

  24. #24
    Very Active Member Bfromla's Avatar
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    Default Baja Ron

    The right oil shipped to your door
    http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/s...rs-amp-Helmets

    2013 STL SE5 BLACK CURRANT
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  25. #25
    Active Member Michael211_2000's Avatar
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    Sounds like they are replacing ALL the solenoid valves (the complete valve assembly unit) on the side of the engine/tranny.... I find it difficult to believe all of them are bad, though (it shifts up so that one works, it won't downshift so that one no work'em, by my shade-tree mechanic logic the downshift solenoid is the only one needing replacement).

    I would think they would be able to confirm the faulty solenoid valve thru the BUDDS and only replace the one that needs replacing.

    If you want to look at the exploded parts diagram see this (parts 29-33) -> http://www.cheapcycleparts.com/oempa...aulic-shifting

    Sucks man.

    - Michael
    Last edited by Michael211_2000; 01-09-2017 at 06:41 PM.

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