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if the cat is removed
Do I have to buy a power commander or anything for the engine? I have read that if you remove the cat, all you have to do is, let it run for about 10 minutes. This will allow the computer adjust to the removal of the cat. Is that true?
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Ozzie Ozzie Ozzie
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Thanks. I do not want to have to install a power commander on my F3. I just want to get rid of that cat and, put a 2 Brother exhaust on it or, run the stock exhaust without the cat.
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Go for it....
You will be fine. These machine can adjust to the changes you mentioned.. although mine is an RS I have a bajarons high tension wires and iridium plugs, JT's air system with a K&N filter ram air with turbo fans and a Yoshimura R77 pipe with no fuel controller. She runs great....
2012 RS sm5 , 998cc V-Twin 106hp DIY brake and park brake Classic Black
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Very Active Member
Baloo is my name. Spyders are my game. Well, it's a doo-bah-dee-doo, yes, it's a doo-bah-dee-doo, I mean a doo-bee, doo-bee, doo-bee, doo-bee, doo-bee-dee-doo. And, well, now. Ha ha! What have we here?
2020 Petrol Blue Metallic RTL
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Originally Posted by Semper Fi
Thanks. I do not want to have to install a power commander on my F3. I just want to get rid of that cat and, put a 2 Brother exhaust on it or, run the stock exhaust without the cat.
The sound is pretty sweet with the stock muffler with the cat delete...
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by Semper Fi
I have read that if you remove the cat, all you have to do is, let it run for about 10 minutes. This will allow the computer adjust to the removal of the cat. Is that true?
It's true in the specific sense that this action only corrects for idle conditions. Fuel mapping, as well as fuel trim correction values (i.e. Long Term Fuel Trim), are stored in look-up tables, which consists of dozens of squares of values corresponding to combinations of RPM and engine load (throttle position). Picture an Excel Spreadsheet and you got the idea. So, idling for 10 minutes might dial in the long term fuel trim correction for idle, but doesn't do anything for highway conditions. Another Spyder Lovers Urban Legend. Just go out and run the thing at various operating conditions, to set the fuel trim values in the entire table, and in 100 miles you'll be all set.
Some folks have misinterpreted a section in the Akrapovic installation instructions as something related to this. Those instructions state that it's for muffler break-in. It's not for ECM adjustment.
Last edited by Snowbelt Spyder; 09-25-2016 at 02:05 PM.
Doug
2023 RT Limited, RT 622, BUDS/BUD2 Megatech/Megatronic
”Freedom is not a loophole”
F4 Customs SWCV, Ultimate, Lidlox, Adjustable Side Vents, Leather Like Grips, SS Grills, Centramatic, Garmin XT2, BajaRon Original Sway Bar w/ Lamonster links, P238
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by Semper Fi
Do I have to buy a power commander or anything for the engine? I have read that if you remove the cat, all you have to do is, let it run for about 10 minutes. This will allow the computer adjust to the removal of the cat. Is that true?
Yes it's true. Let it run about 10 minutes turn off remove key and walk away.
I haven't had a Cat on mine since purchased.
I finally settled on a RT muffler because even the stock muffler is loud.
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Very Active Member
"if the cat is removed
"
The dog will reign supreme
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Am I talking through my hat?
I seem to remember reading here that the primary muffler is merely a muffler and
there is actually no catalytic converter on any Spyder. Anyhooo....I've binned mine
and fitted a Lamonster delete pipe with a Big City Thunder baffle and the stock tailpipe
sounds great and runs beautifully.
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Cat delete
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Ozzie Ozzie Ozzie
I dunno about all of them, maybe here Down Under we get a different spec as far as this is concerned, but I've got 2 removed Cat Converters out in my shed & I'm pretty sure that both have a visible 'catalyst honeycomb', or at least something that looks very similar to catalyst honeycomb style material, just inside the intake end of the pipe on that 'primary muffler'..... cutting that out of one of the 'converters' a while back showed that the honeycomb section was virtually identical to the catalytic honeycomb I've found in every other cat converter I've ever opened (I've gutted a few), with the honeycomb being the full dia of that inlet section & maybe as much as 2-3" deep.... Read into that what you will, but it certainly looked like catalytic converter material to me, altho I didn't test it to see if it really was!!
Regardless of how much (if any?!?) catalytic material is in there, the whole 'primary muffler' thing is a bleeding heavy lump of metal (about 7 kilo's IIRC?) and the bulk of the housing internals seems to be devoted to containing a fairly heavy wad of metal tubing & baffles, making for a quite convoluted pretty heavy restriction in the exhaust flow; possibly in order to create higher temps in that initial honeycomb section (which is sorta what you'd expect from a catalytic converter & it certainly creates a 'hot spot' in the exhaust!!) Sooo, basically that means that even if nothing else, by removing it you are going to make an appreciable weight reduction in what your Spyder hasta lug around!! Add to that the heat reduction achieved by removing the convoluted heat generating lump of metal that it is & which just happens to be pretty much immediately underneath the fuel tank & between your feet, and I'm a happy chappy!! The fact that ripping it out & inserting the V-twin style 'Y' Cat Eliminator instead also gave the exhaust note a 'deeper & throatier growl' was simply a providential side benefit as far as I am concerned!
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