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  1. #26
    Very Active Member AbNormy's Avatar
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    How it compare to T6 Rotella? Understand it's OK for manuals but no SE clutches

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    2012 RT A&C bought new 42312 sold July 2018 56k miles currently driving a 2014 RTSE6 LTD bought October 2018 w 6800 miles nicely farkled
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  2. #27
    Very Active Member jcthorne's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by AbNormy View Post
    How it compare to T6 Rotella? Understand it's OK for manuals but no SE clutches

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    For the 1330 bikes, the Rotella T6 is a fine oil and meets all BRP warranty requirements. It does not meet the requirements for the 998 bikes. For those, the Valvoline is the better choice.

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  3. #28
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    but its 10-40 and the manual specifies 5-40.
    also JASO MA can be split into JASO MA 1 and JASO MA 2, now one and two both cover two different areas whereas JASO MA without numbers actually cover both parameters of the one and two combined.
    So it would seem the plain JASO MA covers all the bases wheras JM2 only covers some.
    I can buy an excellent Aussie Penrite Full Synthetic 5-40 but it's only JM2.
    Following the consensus here then Im ok to run it?
    Also change intervals of 5000kms dont seem much...my other motorcycles are changed at 8000 kms.
    Also do you all change both filters every 5000 kms change.
    The kms are coming past very quickly for me, I love riding this thing and love fanging it in the wet.
    Should I be able to slide the back tyre getting into it in third in the wet out of corners, I wouldve though 'nanny' prevented that?

  4. #29
    Registered Users Gray Ghost's Avatar
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    [QUOTE=Shifter;1190790Also change intervals of 5000kms dont seem much...my other motorcycles are changed at 8000 kms.[/QUOTE]

    Check your manual again. You are looking at miles rather than kilometers.


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  5. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gray Ghost View Post
    Check your manual again. You are looking at miles rather than kilometers.
    checked manual for2010 Spyder RS...under maintenance schedule
    Engine oil and filter Every 5000 km
    Trans filter every 20,000 km or 2 years.

  6. #31
    MelloYelloSpyder
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    Should you really be changing your own oil if you don't know what 4 stroke is???

  7. #32
    Pragmatic Member Pampurrs's Avatar
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    I've used it on my last two oil changes. It seems to work just fine.

    BajaRon recommended it to me, and I trust his judgement.

    Pam



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  8. #33
    Very Active Member billybovine's Avatar
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    The maintenance schedule recommendations has changed twice since your manual was printed. I assume that your oil was changed at least once in the last three years and will have the updated filters. So currently it is recommended to change your oil and both the engine, HCM (transmission) filters at 7,500 kms or at least once a year. There was a booklet issued by BRP with the new recommendations in 2012. You can refer to a newer Operators Manual on BRP's website.

    Quote Originally Posted by Shifter View Post
    checked manual for2010 Spyder RS...under maintenance schedule
    Engine oil and filter Every 5000 km
    Trans filter every 20,000 km or 2 years.
    Last edited by billybovine; 10-14-2016 at 10:55 AM.

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  9. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by billybovine View Post
    The maintenance schedule recommendations has changed twice since your manual was printed. I assume that your oil was changed at least once in the last three years and will have the updated filters. So currently it is recommended to change your oil and both the engine, HCM (transmission) filters at 7,500 kms or at least once a year. There was a booklet issued by BRP with the new recommendations in 2012. You can refer to a newer Operators Manual on BRP's website.
    Well that's great news as I'm racking up lots of kays on this thing!
    Thanks for the update.
    So oil and engine filter is extended, but trans filter comes back from 20,000 kms to 7500 too hey.
    That's okay I can cop that.
    Premium Aussie Penrite Full Synthetic 5-40 MC ain't cheap but it's full JASO MA as opposed to JASO MA 2
    Trouble is the above only comes in 4 litre packs so I need to buy another litre to get the extra 300mls.
    There's another Penrite Full Synthetic 5-40 that's only JASO MA2, it's cheaper and comes in a five litre pack and is car truck and motorcycle friendly.
    A bit extra for the good stuff is a pittance compared to the amount of fuel of feeding the beast...
    Last edited by Shifter; 10-15-2016 at 08:32 AM.

  10. #35
    Very Active Member billybovine's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shifter View Post
    Well that's great news as I'm racking up lots of kays on this thing!
    So oil and engine filter is extended, but trans filter comes back from 20,000 kms to 7500 too hey.
    That's okay I can cop that.
    Premium Aussie Penrite Full Synthetic 5-40 MC ain't cheap but it's full JASO MA as opposed to JASO MA 2
    Trouble is the above only comes in 4 litre packs so I need to buy another litre to get the extra 300mls.
    There's another Penrite Full Synthetic 5-40 that's only JASO MA2, it's cheaper and comes in a five litre pack and is car truck and motorcycle friendly.
    A bit extra for the good stuff is a pittance compared to the amount of fuel of feeding the beast...
    You appear misunderstand the JASO clutch slippage tests and resulting ratings. JASO MA2 rating is more desirable than a MA.

    2018 F3 LIMITED

  11. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by billybovine View Post
    You appear misunderstand the JASO clutch slippage tests and resulting ratings. JASO MA2 rating is more desirable than a MA.
    Actually you are the one who misunderstands it
    MA covers the parameters if both 1 and 2
    MA is the recommended oil not MA2
    you put what you like in though...

  12. #37
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    http://katriders.com/vb/showthread.php?t=83732

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  13. #38
    Registered Users Gray Ghost's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shifter View Post
    MA covers the parameters if both 1 and 2
    An oil rated JASMO MA meets some of the specifications of MA1 and some of the specifications of MA2. The following is from: http://www.oilspecifications.org/art...MA_JASO_MB.php
    JASO MA1 JASO MA2
    Dynamic Friction Characteristic Index (DFI) ≥1.45 and <1.8 ≥1.8 and <2.5
    Static Friction Characteristic Index (SFI) ≥1.15 and <1.7 ≥1.7 and <2.5
    Stop Time Index (STI) ≥1.55 and <1.9 ≥1.9 and <2.5

    If all three properties of a JASO MA oil fall within the limits specified as MA1 then the oil can be classified as a JASO MA1 oil. If all its properties fall within the limits of MA2 then it can be classified as a JASO MA2 oil. If some properties fall within the MA1 subcategory but others in MA2 then the product is simply a JASO MA product.


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  14. #39
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    That's alright MA

  15. #40
    SpyderLovers Sponsor BajaRon's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shifter View Post
    but its 10-40 and the manual specifies 5-40.
    No big deal. A 10w-40 is actually a better viscosity than the recommended 5w-40 for the Spyder. I can explain that if you like.

    Quote Originally Posted by Shifter View Post
    also JASO MA can be split into JASO MA 1 and JASO MA 2, now one and two both cover two different areas whereas JASO MA without numbers actually cover both parameters of the one and two combined. So it would seem the plain JASO MA covers all the bases wheras JM2 only covers some.
    Not exactly. The JASO ratings are specifically addressed to the oils ability to prevent wet clutch slippage. MA1 is the lowest of the 3 (clutch slippage more liketly). MA1 will slip a 998 Rotax clutch for sure. MA2 is the highest rating (best clutch slippage protection). The very confusing MA rating (no number following) meets all of the MA1 specs but it falls short of meeting all of the MA2 specs. How short is any ones guess.

    There are 3 JASO parameters. Dynamic Friction, Static Friction and Stop Time. So the nebulous MA rating could be just barely better than an MA1 rated oil. Or just barely worse than an MA2 rated oil. You just don't know unless you can get the exact specs for that MA rated oil in all 3 of the JASO Parameters. So, to find out if an MA rated oil will slip your clutch, you'll have to try it.

    Simply put. JASO MA2 is the best possible protection against clutch slippage. Jaso MA1 is not as good. And each individual JASO MA lubricant occupies some unknown spot in-between these 2.

    Update:
    Sorry Gray Ghost. I did not read your post before putting mine up. But you are exactly right. The chart you attached verifies that.

    The JASO MA rating is confusing. But certainly, since the MA1 rated oil is less able to prevent clutch slippage. You would not want to tout your product as having all the (lesser) qualities of of an MA1 rated oil if it possessed all the (superior) qualities of an MA2 lubricant.
    Last edited by BajaRon; 10-20-2016 at 09:22 AM. Reason: Did not see Gray Ghosts Post before adding mine.
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  16. #41
    Active Member Sempyder's Avatar
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    So I thought I watched a BRP video on oil which shows a team of scientists working with the oil industry to create XPS. BRP spent a couple million on this process just for a specific engine brand. Valvoline spends a couple million on marketing for every major unit engine. And I just consulted with this thread of a dozen motorcycle riders who are probably not in the oil profession but read other professionals literature about the best oil and then write about it or debate about it. It drives me crazy that a good percent thinks xps is too much money and another group says it doesn't have the viscosity that is needed, or I sent mine in and it broke down faster than the other. I'm a big big believer in XPS because I believe in the Spyder which means I Believe in BRP. Btw I'm sure everyone on this thread knows more about oil than me that's great, keep up on that so I have more to read.


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  17. #42
    Very Active Member Trbayth's Avatar
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    Who left the troll cage open again? lol lol lol lol

    See, I can put a bunch of lol's at the end of my post too.
    Trb-- (Roger)

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  18. #43
    Very Active Member Warlock's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Trbayth View Post
    Who left the troll cage open again? lol lol lol lol

    See, I can put a bunch of lol's at the end of my post too.
    I tried the Valvoline 10-40 full synthetic and didn't like it. Made my spyder shift harder. Took it out and put Lucas in it. Shifting like it should now. Mine seems to not like it. Oh well at least I tried it. Was hoping to like it with the price of it. Mine is a manual shift also.
    David

  19. #44
    Very Active Member Trbayth's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Warlock View Post
    I tried the Valvoline 10-40 full synthetic and didn't like it. Made my spyder shift harder. Took it out and put Lucas in it. Shifting like it should now. Mine seems to not like it. Oh well at least I tried it. Was hoping to like it with the price of it. Mine is a manual shift also.
    David
    If that's working out well for you, that's great! I had used the Amsoil for a couple of changes and while I did notice a difference, for me it wasn't enough to justify the much higher price.

    Switched to the Castrol for my last change and so far it's working fine for me. Reasonably priced too.
    Trb-- (Roger)

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  20. #45
    Very Active Member Deanna777's Avatar
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    I updated my ( post # 11) on this thread ,that it EXCEEDS API Services SJ/SG/SF, JASO MA2.

    I use this oil, I have not had any problems with this oil.

    I have a 2014RTS-SE6.

    Deanna




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  21. #46
    Very Active Member coz's Avatar
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    Default Good oil

    Highly rated, readily available, good price. Get your filters from Baja Ron.
    it was fun while it lasted.

  22. #47
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    Default Valvoline Oil

    I don’t want to start an Oil thread. I got a question. I have read a large number of all the oil threads with a lot of tests that were done. I have got it down to two oils that I am considering to start using. Those are Mobil 1 Racing oil T4 10W/40 and Valvoline Motorcycle oil 4T Stroke "Full synthetic" 10w-40. I have read the spec’s on both oils. They seem to be about the same. I can purchase the Valvoline for about $5.00 a quart and everywhere I have checked the Mobil 1 is $9.97 a quart. Is the Mobil that mush better?
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  23. #48
    Very Active Member BLUEKNIGHT911's Avatar
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    Default oil choices

    Quote Originally Posted by gerald37 View Post
    I don’t want to start an Oil thread. I got a question. I have read a large number of all the oil threads with a lot of tests that were done. I have got it down to two oils that I am considering to start using. Those are Mobil 1 Racing oil T4 10W/40 and Valvoline Motorcycle oil 4T Stroke "Full synthetic" 10w-40. I have read the spec’s on both oils. They seem to be about the same. I can purchase the Valvoline for about $5.00 a quart and everywhere I have checked the Mobil 1 is $9.97 a quart. Is the Mobil that mush better?
    I use and like that Valvoline ....... here's something that might not be known about the Valvoline - Out of about 20 of the leading Mtc oils. This Valvoline had the second lowest Molybdenum added to the product, only Amsoil is lower ........... Moly is BAD for WET clutches .... and the Spyder has a Wet clutch .........Mike
    Last edited by Peter Aawen; 09-01-2023 at 03:15 PM. Reason: Colour...

  24. #49
    Very Active Member JayBros's Avatar
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    Use the Valvoline and Mobil 1, run each oil 5,000 miles, have them analyzed and make your selection based upon the analysis results. That's the only way YOU can tell which is performing better in your Spyder. Buy oil analysis kits from your local Napa auto parts store or from Napa online.
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  25. #50
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    Sorry I need help but this is an oil? Also, I am new to Spyder

    I just checked the oil in my Spyder RT before starting it, & it did not show anything, also I don't see any leaks! Help?
    Last edited by Peter Aawen; 09-01-2023 at 03:17 PM. Reason: Moved Post title into text - many only see Thread titles, and post titles mess with Searching! ;-)

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