I just finished changing my oil and filters, again. And I cannot believe the intelligence level of the Can Am Spyder designers! To change oil one must remove not one, but 4 body panels to access the drain plugS and filterS. Not one plug, mind you, but TWO! STUPID! And replace not one oil filter, mind you, but TWO! And different filters at that! STUPID! Especially since the oil is used in both the engine and transmission, why TWO and not only two, but two DIFFERENT filters. In all of my motorcycles that used the same oil in the tranny and the engine not one had more than ONE drain plug and ONE filter.
I just finished changing my oil and filters, again. And I cannot believe the intelligence level of the Can Am Spyder designers! To change oil one must remove not one, but 4 body panels to access the drain plugS and filterS. Not one plug, mind you, but TWO! STUPID! And replace not one oil filter, mind you, but TWO! And different filters at that! STUPID! Especially since the oil is used in both the engine and transmission, why TWO and not only two, but two DIFFERENT filters. In all of my motorcycles that used the same oil in the tranny and the engine not one had more than ONE drain plug and ONE filter.
Unbelievable!!
I share your concern(s). There must be logic for both filters ... it would be interesting to hear from BRP.
For me, I have been considering drilling out a large hole under the Spyder, so that a plastic cap can be inserted when not needed, to avoid the removal of the bottom plastic plate. It would then be so easy to snap out the cap, drain the oil, retighten the cap, and then snap the cap back in. I wonder if anybody else has ever done this?
....and don't forget...placing those two drains just ONE INCH further apart than my catch pan's diameter, so I can't drain both with the same pan at the same time.
....and the two filter covers that could, BUT DON'T use the same length screws, so that if you inadvertently get them switched your engine filter cover looks and feels tight, but won't hold oil. Ask me how I know.
....and NO COLD SUMP DIPSTICK!! 'Cause (see above) now I'm not sure how much oil I have left in the engine and I don't want to run it to op-temp to check the level since it might not be safe because, again, I'm not sure how much oil I have left in the engine. I guess I'll just dump 2 quarts in and work up from there.
I had a wonderful afternoon yesterday. Sure am glad I only do this once a year. Now I have a huge oil spot on my carport floor to remind me not do do stupid stuff in future.
I have a Suzuki M109 LE that has 2 drain plugs. It does however have only 1 filter. I just got the F3 T so have not experienced the filter and oil change yet but will no doubt have the same thoughts.
I have a Suzuki M109 LE that has 2 drain plugs. It does however have only 1 filter. I just got the F3 T so have not experienced the filter and oil change yet but will no doubt have the same thoughts.
They have a different engine then you have and the HCM filter does not get changed everytime the engine filter does on yours.
Yes, I agree totally.
For routine maintenance, such as oil changes, taking off all that body work is really foolish.
At least on the newer ACE engines, the maintenance interval has bee substantially increased.
IMPORTANT NOTE: While your changing your oil, change out those allen/torx head drain plugs to hex head plugs from Dimple Products.
In general, I have to say that maintenance on these machines is not well thought out.
Wait till you have to change out a headlight bulb !
If it ain't broke, don't break it.
IBA #47122
2020 RT Limited Asphalt Grey
Yes, I agree totally.
For routine maintenance, such as oil changes, taking off all that body work is really foolish.
At least on the newer ACE engines, the maintenance interval has bee substantially increased.
IMPORTANT NOTE: While your changing your oil, change out those allen/torx head drain plugs to hex head plugs from Dimple Products.
In general, I have to say that maintenance on these machines is not well thought out.
Wait till you have to change out a headlight bulb !
Yes, I agree totally. For routine maintenance, such as oil changes, taking off all that body work is really foolish. At least on the newer ACE engines, the maintenance interval has bee substantially increased. IMPORTANT NOTE: While your changing your oil, change out those allen/torx head drain plugs to hex head plugs from Dimple Products. In general, I have to say that maintenance on these machines is not well thought out. Wait till you have to change out a headlight bulb !
I will be changing the original two-different-sized drain plugs to Gold Plug drain plugs at the next oil change. Both use 17mm wrenches ... just like "real" motorcycles, and the magnets are supposed to be super magnetic. As for changing a headlight bulb on an ST, yeesh .. who thought that process up! Many parts to remove, skinned knuckles ... owch! There are many areas of the Spyder that makes one wonder who thought of the way to put everything together. Try changing spark plugs and an air filter on an ST. :-( :-(
I have a Suzuki M109 LE that has 2 drain plugs. It does however have only 1 filter. I just got the F3 T so have not experienced the filter and oil change yet but will no doubt have the same thoughts.
My Honda NighthawkS had 3 drain plugs plus the spin on filter. The use sections of the frame to circulate the oil up to an oil cooling radiator. One large oil pan would catch the filter, the crankcase, and one frame drain. Then a coffee can caught the 2nd frame drain. Fun fun fun. It was a great bike tho! Shaft drive and auto valve adjusters so oil and plugs were about the only maintenance ever needed.
I share your concern(s). There must be logic for both filters ... it would be interesting to hear from BRP.
For me, I have been considering drilling out a large hole under the Spyder, so that a plastic cap can be inserted when not needed, to avoid the removal of the bottom plastic plate. It would then be so easy to snap out the cap, drain the oil, retighten the cap, and then snap the cap back in. I wonder if anybody else has ever done this?
It's not really that hard to remove and replace that panel. But if it bothers you that much. Do as many others do and just do not put it back on. Hang it on the wall as art.
It is perfectly logical to have 2 filters. There are 2 separate systems that only share the oil and oil tank on a SE5 like you have. The HCM draws oil out of the oil tank. That oil could be dirty after returning from the engine. So it needs to be filtered before going through the HCM. Same with the engine. Oil in the tank could be dirty so needs to be filtered before going through the engine.
It's not really that hard to remove and replace that panel. But if it bothers you that much. Do as many others do and just do not put it back on. Hang it on the wall as art.
It is perfectly logical to have 2 filters. There are 2 separate systems that only share the oil and oil tank on a SE5 like you have. The HCM draws oil out of the oil tank. That oil could be dirty after returning from the engine. So it needs to be filtered before going through the HCM. Same with the engine. Oil in the tank could be dirty so needs to be filtered before going through the engine.
Doesn't make sense to me. The method off rotating the shifting drum has nothing to do with the oil or internal components of the transmission or of the engine crankcase. So, why is it logical to have 2 separate systems? Requiring 2 separate filters? Arrange the oil return passages/lines to utilize one filter.
Of course oil is involved in rotating shift drum. Hydraulic pressure moves the external shift lever. That replaces your foot doing it on a manual.
maybe I am the stupid one, but I must disagree a bit. True, the hydraulic piston does the actual shifting, but this piston is completely sealed in the oil bath. The actual actuation of the shifter is done by an electrically powered solenoid valve outside the transmission housing. Sooo, again I ask why the separate filter for the transmission?
Doesn't make sense to me. The method off rotating the shifting drum has nothing to do with the oil or internal components of the transmission or of the engine crankcase. So, why is it logical to have 2 separate systems? Requiring 2 separate filters? Arrange the oil return passages/lines to utilize one filter.
This is the reason why you are the consumer and they are the manufacturer, engineers. Life is full of unknown but we need to deal with and move on.
You are also the reason why things get better by pointing out issues that can be improve. I've work on a diesel engine that no oil change is required because the old oil is process and added to the fuel system. I have chevy equinox that have no auto transmission dipstick. We can accomplish a lot of things when we work together.
My 2 cent's worth on the subject. if you do not have a skinned owie, or a stripped bolt/nut, or a missing fastener, you are CLEARLY NOT BONDING WITH YOUR SPYDER. It is a gentle and loving learning curve...... Think about it.
I share your concern(s). There must be logic for both filters ... it would be interesting to hear from BRP.
Having known a few engineers myself it helps to know they are still just doing their job & were givin a set of parameters to work with. Those parameters are not yours. At this time, when it is your time what will you come up with?
Last edited by Bfromla; 12-09-2016 at 02:21 AM.
2013 STL SE5 BLACK CURRANT
SpyderPop's: LED bumpskid
SmoothSpyder: dualmode back rest
T r * * LED:foam grip covers, Tricrings, FenderZ,
brake light strips, wide vue mirrors
Rivico SOMA modulation brake leds
sawblade mowhalk fender accents
minispyder dash toy
Lid lox
KradelLock
Pakitrack
GENSSI ELITE LED H4 headlights
FLO (Frunk Lid Organizer)
BRP fog lights, trailer hitch
SENA 20S EVO
stupid!!!!!
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Originally Posted by kep-up
Didn't know that the SE's have two, the SM's only one, whew !!! 
Having known a few engineers myself it helps to know they are still just doing their job & were givin a set of parameters to work with. Those parameters are not yours. At this time, when it is your time what will you come up with?
