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  1. #26
    Active Member wukka's Avatar
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    Default Front Sprocket Failure #2

    Had my 2nd one go in just over 10,000 miles, this time while in Yellowstone. Major expenditure to get the trike back home, as dealer closest to there (Rexburg, ID) was willing to "look at it" but not yet dealt with this specific issue.

    This is my third Can-AM (had the GS and RT) and never had this issue before - so something is clearly wrong. And just to be clear, I am NOT one of those guys that likes to paint the blacktop with burnout stripes.

    Not a lot of faith with the product or the company at this time...

    Where I've been on my Spyder...

  2. #27
    Very Active Member jcthorne's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wukka View Post
    Had my 2nd one go in just over 10,000 miles, this time while in Yellowstone. Major expenditure to get the trike back home, as dealer closest to there (Rexburg, ID) was willing to "look at it" but not yet dealt with this specific issue.

    This is my third Can-AM (had the GS and RT) and never had this issue before - so something is clearly wrong. And just to be clear, I am NOT one of those guys that likes to paint the blacktop with burnout stripes.

    Not a lot of faith with the product or the company at this time...
    Wow. so sorry to hear this. I do think the vibration issue and the new BRP tensioner are related to this. The RT with the same front pulley is not having this issue .

    Blue Flame Spyder F3-S
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  3. #28
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    I have my 9K+ maintenance services at the end of the month. I am going to have them check the front sprocket since I myself cant seem to see where it is exactly.

  4. #29
    Very Active Member jcthorne's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tazzel View Post
    I have my 9K+ maintenance services at the end of the month. I am going to have them check the front sprocket since I myself cant seem to see where it is exactly.
    The front sprocket is pretty easy to find, just follow the belt forward. The bolt in the center of it is accessed by removing a small plastic cover on an F3. Just forward of the frame side casting with the passenger peg bolted to it.

    Blue Flame Spyder F3-S
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  5. #30
    Active Member monkeyboymorton's Avatar
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    As the RTs aren't having this issue could this be related to the different rear sprocket size on the US spec F3?

    I'm just going to go and check mine now as I'm on 10K miles, but of course I have the US RT spec rear sprocket on my euro F3.
    | 2015 F3-S | Heated Grips | USB Ports | RAM X-Grip | RT Sway Bar | '2 Up' Rear Shock | SHAD Bag Kit | Oxford Aqua 50 Dry Bag | BRP Rider Backrest |

  6. #31
    Very Active Member Sam Mac's Avatar
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    I bet a good machine shop could make one out of billet aluminum.

  7. #32
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    Default front sprocket

    I've stripped 3 front sprockets on my 08 Spyder , Brp made the center of the front gear softer ; so it strips out before transferring the energy inside the crankcase to the transmission gears !!!

    I jump my Spyder @ RR crossings ; thus the need for replacing it 3 times It jumps great stays nice and flat thru the air !!!

    the newer design sprocket has an inner and outer flange to help keep the belt on track ( the first series had only the outer flange which allowed the belt to " walk " on the front sprocket

  8. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sam Mac View Post
    I bet a good machine shop could make one out of billet aluminum.
    That didn't Mel's monster garage made a 30 tooth aluminum one back in 08 and aluminum is way to soft if the steel ones are failing why go with a softer medal?
    2 happy happy spyders

  9. #34
    Very Active Member Sam Mac's Avatar
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    I was under the impression that they were cast Aluminum. To be honest I have never seen one so I guessed aluminum.

  10. #35
    Very Active Member Sam Mac's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by spyder3rdr View Post
    I've stripped 3 front sprockets on my 08 Spyder , Brp made the center of the front gear softer ; so it strips out before transferring the energy inside the crankcase to the transmission gears !!!

    I jump my Spyder @ RR crossings ; thus the need for replacing it 3 times It jumps great stays nice and flat thru the air !!!


    the newer design sprocket has an inner and outer flange to help keep the belt on track ( the first series had only the outer flange which allowed the belt to " walk " on the front sprocket
    I wonder how long it will be before you bust the frame.

  11. #36
    Very Active Member zuni's Avatar
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    Default Home Again!

    My baby is fixed and back home again! The gearbox fear was just that, fear. The Central Florida PowerSports did order one and had it on hand just in case but after examination and testing all that was needed was the sprocket.
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  12. #37
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    Default 2009 spyder belt tentioner

    Quote Originally Posted by capt.jim View Post
    The F3 and RT both use the same part# for the front sprocket. The RT's are using a substantially higher belt tension, are they having the same failure rates with the splines wallowing out?
    Could you give us a discount on 2 tensioner now that the f3s are less than 2009 rs and they have stopped making them as of this year . Hope to hear from you bigal55.

  13. #38
    Active Member KID Ryker's Avatar
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    Default Thanks

    Quote Originally Posted by jcthorne View Post
    The failure is the bolt coming loose. Its not the pulley that is the problem. Once the bolt is loose, either the pulley or the shaft is going to fail, the pulley is the easy to replace part so designed to fail first.

    Check the bolt torque on that pulley every oil change.
    Thanks good ideal. Checked 3 - f3. 2 f3s with 5000 miles 1 was loose. 1 f3t 400 mile was good. Will do as you said. Check the bolt torque on that pulley every oil change. Great ideal

  14. #39
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    Finally found the front sprocket area, mine is clean as a whistle. I have my 9300 maintenance scheduled for the end of the month, I will have them double check the sprocket condition.

  15. #40
    Member bandreassen's Avatar
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    Is this happening to mostly 2015 models?

  16. #41
    Very Active Member zuni's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bandreassen View Post
    Is this happening to mostly 2015 models?
    Happening on 2015 and 2016 models in the F3 line. I have only heard of one RT model that has had the issue.

    CJ JAX

  17. #42
    Very Active Member Highwayman2013's Avatar
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    Had one on an F3 here in Las Vegas. Is this becoming a real problem?
    2016 F3 Limited
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    2016 F 3 Limited , Vegas White

  18. #43
    Active Member Beachbum's Avatar
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    Default Torque setting

    What is the proper torque setting for the bolt?

  19. #44
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    Default Torque setting

    Quote Originally Posted by Beachbum View Post
    What is the proper torque setting for the bolt?


    The torque settings are: 92ft lbs or 125Nm

  20. #45
    Active Member SpyderF3-s's Avatar
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    Default Happened to me at 28000 miles

    My Spyder is in the shop for this right now for this issue. According to the service manager, this is a common issue. He said that they get one of these a month in. BRP should put out a service bulletin to all dealers to check for this issue when doing any type of service. Lucky for me I was at a stop light when this happened. If I had been on the Interstate who knows what may have happened. I would be interested to know what others mileage is.
    Last edited by SpyderF3-s; 05-17-2017 at 07:45 PM.
    God bless those who serve/served our country!

  21. #46
    Active Member Beachbum's Avatar
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    Default Thank you

    Reading your thread has prompted me to check the front sprocket on both my spyder and a friends. I don't have a shop (service) manual yet so I needed the proper torque settings in case I find a problem with either spyder. Thank you for sharing the diagnosis and thank you Bruce for the proper setting. I know you have saved at least two other riders from having the same trouble. I hope you get your spyder back and on the road soon, thanks again.

  22. #47
    Very Active Member Roadster Renovations's Avatar
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    I think it is a torque issue with a reduced gear ratio. Weakest part is the front sprocket. Will keep happening until they make a tougher pulley to compensate. Bolt should not come loose unless the splines get some play and start working the bolt, backing it off.

  23. #48
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    Can you reach the bolt connecting the pully without removing the cover?
    Do you need a torque rench to check the tightness or can you just reach under the cover and use an open end reach to check if the bolt is loose. Do you have to loosen the belt?
    I have 7000 miles on both 2015 F3se. Thanks

  24. #49
    Active Member Beachbum's Avatar
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    Steamer, I had to remove the cover and the proper torque setting is 92ft lbs so I set the torque wrench to 70ft lbs to avoid breaking the lock tite bond. I found no movement on two spyders that I checked (one f3s se6 with 11,000 miles and one sm6 with 7,000 miles)

  25. #50
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    Thanks beachbum. Using a lower setting on the wrench is a VERY good suggestion.
    I crawled under the bike and just used an open end wrench just to see if the bolt was loose. The dolt did not move and I gave it a reasonable tug. Wil remove the cover and use a torque wrench via your suggest setting.

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