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Shuts down when shifting into 1st gear - DESPERATE
We have a 2011 RT Limited. The bike shuts off as soon as you shift into 1st gear. I had it towed to the stealership. First thing they did was replace the battery as it was not holding a charge. Same issue. Now they want to replace the starter solenoid values and the shifter lever which will be another $1100 and don't know if this is the problem. Its not throwing any codes and they want to replace these parts to continue their diagnostics. Basically they don't know what is causing the issue.
My concern is that since they don't know the problem they are shooting in the dark and I have no idea how much this will ultimately cost me. Anyone have any ideas what might be causing this issue? This is a new dealership and I am somewhat inclined to have it towed to a more seasoned dealership to see if they can diagnosis the issue. Problem is there is the other dealership is and hour plus drive to get it there
I am desperate and any help would be appreciated.
Thanks, Doug
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Very Active Member
Ouch..!!
Don't know them and not saying nothing but they need to get someone who better informed on these machines. The battery and the starter selenoid even the actuator if it's an SE will not be the cause. I am not sure but with the techiness of these machines I would think it has an electical or nanny issue. Something in the sensors like gear positioning, cam or crank that may cause the nanny to shut her down. Not having the spyder with you I would have tried second to confirm that it shuts down when put under a load. But it would be electical more to the ignition, coil, spark.... did they get in touch with BRP...?? did you..?? I would not keep paying for guess work....
Gene and Ilana De Laney
Mt. Helix, California
2012 RS sm5
2012 RS sm5 , 998cc V-Twin 106hp DIY brake and park brake Classic Black
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Originally Posted by Chupaca
Don't know them and not saying nothing but they need to get someone who better informed on these machines. The battery and the starter selenoid even the actuator if it's an SE will not be the cause. I am not sure but with the techiness of these machines I would think it has an electical or nanny issue. Something in the sensors like gear positioning, cam or crank that may cause the nanny to shut her down. Not having the spyder with you I would have tried second to confirm that it shuts down when put under a load. But it would be electical more to the ignition, coil, spark.... did they get in touch with BRP...?? did you..?? I would not keep paying for guess work....
I just saw Lamont's posting with the customer number for BRP so I am going to call them tomorrow. The bike starts just fine so that's why I was leery of the solenoid replacement. As for trying n 2nd gear, the bike won't even shift beyond 1st before it shuts off.
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Very Active Member
What I meant was to shift direct into second instead of first...Good luck hope they have some insight for you....
Sent from my SM-T560NU using Tapatalk
Gene and Ilana De Laney
Mt. Helix, California
2012 RS sm5
2012 RS sm5 , 998cc V-Twin 106hp DIY brake and park brake Classic Black
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Very Active Member
How is he going to do that with a SE5 trans????
2017 F3 Limited in Intense Red Pearl
2008 Triumph Rocket (SOLD)
2002 Honda VTX 1800 C ( SOLD)
2014 Triumph Thunderbird Commander
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Very Active Member
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Could be
Originally Posted by Bob Denman
engagement clutch...
This sounds more like it. The other symptom that is pointing in this direction is that once the bike shuts down the rear wheel is locked in gear. I am guessing a good mechanic would know what to look for if this were the issue? I think I am going to have to take it to another dealer. I'm ok with the battery replacement as it probably needed that but that solenoid?? That made no sense to me.
Last edited by viiiball; 07-20-2016 at 08:19 AM.
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Very Active Member
Clutch stuck or damaged and not disengaging sounds logical. You say it stalls shifting to first. What about reverse. If it is the clutch it should stall then too. Also are you maybe misunderstanding the dealer or is the service manager misunderstanding the tech. Could it be that they want to change the clutch solenoid valve. Not the starter solenoid value. Even that would be a wrong diagnosis based on your symptoms. Failure of the clutch valve would only cause the clutch not to engage, not disengage. There seems to be no logic to changing out shifter switch. This is all assuming that the clutch is stuck and not an electrical problem. I would jack up the back tire. Release the parking brake. In neutral the back tire should be able to be rotated by hand. Manually shift it into 1st gear. The tire should be able to still spin by hand but be a little tougher. The engine should not spin with it.
2018 F3 LIMITED
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Very Active Member
The bike should still roll when in first gear if the brake is off and the clutch is not locked up. Have the dealer try that.
2016 F3 Limited
2019 Ryker Rally
2014 Suzuki V Strom 650
2020 CSC TT 250
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Get to a dealer that has a real mechanic. They are experimenting and keeping your checkbook open. If there is another dealer close enough to drive and talk to, do it and see what their thoughts are. Please let us know what the final fix was. Thanks.
Last edited by Bobleach45; 07-20-2016 at 10:02 AM.
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Called BRP - useless
Originally Posted by viiiball
I just saw Lamont's posting with the customer number for BRP so I am going to call them tomorrow. The bike starts just fine so that's why I was leery of the solenoid replacement. As for trying n 2nd gear, the bike won't even shift beyond 1st before it shuts off.
I called the BRP customer service line and they were completely unhelpful. They said the only thing to do was to tell the dealer to get in touch with BRP Tech Support for assistance. I was told there was no Tech Support for customers.
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Originally Posted by viiiball
I called the BRP customer service line and they were completely unhelpful. They said the only thing to do was to tell the dealer to get in touch with BRP Tech Support for assistance. I was told there was no Tech Support for customers.
Yes that is how they operate. Everything starts at the dealer.
2017 F3T-SM6 Squared Away Mirror Wedgies & Alignment
2014 RTS-SM6 123,600 miles Sold 11/2017
2014 RTL-SE6 8,600 miles
2011 RTS-SM5 5,000 miles
2013 RTS-SM5 burned up with 13,200 miles in 13 weeks
2010 RTS-SM5 59,148 miles
2010 RT- 622
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Had the same problem with mine but only once in a while. The dealer had to adjust the pressure going to the clutch or the clutch engagement timing. It was done with buds if i remember right.
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Cracked Vacuum Hoses ?
Have the dealer or you can check the two vacuum hoses that are mounted in the front of the motor.
With the vacuum hoses being subjected to engine heat the hoses over time dry put and crack. This causes the motor to stop unexpectedly and usually no code appears.
My 2010 RT SE5 had this problem and was vacuum hoses that were cracked.
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FIXED
Just thought I would close out this issue. I got the bike from the first dealer we took it to and trailered it to one we have used in the past. They were able to quickly diagnose the issue. It was a broken wave spring that was interfering with the clutch. The clutch was thinking it was engaged that's why the bike was shutting off.
We have since taken a 3400 mile trip and the Spyder performed perfectly.
Thanks everyone for their input.
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Very Active Member
Good that you found a dealer that knew their Spyder's
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Thanks for letting us know that it was an easy fix, for a knowledgeable dealer!
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Very Active Member
Just out of curiosity did you ever check the vacuum hoses mentioned in post #18?Your Spyder is getting to the age when those tend to go bad if they haven't already. They are an easy diy job if you need new ones. I replaced mine just as a precaution. Glad you got your other problem fixed.
Happy TRAils/NSD
Paul
2012 RT L
AMA 25 years Life Member
TRA
PGR
Rhino Riders Plate #83
Venturers #78
TOI
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Very Active Member
And now you know
Originally Posted by viiiball
Just thought I would close out this issue. I got the bike from the first dealer we took it to and trailered it to one we have used in the past. They were able to quickly diagnose the issue. It was a broken wave spring that was interfering with the clutch. The clutch was thinking it was engaged that's why the bike was shutting off.
We have since taken a 3400 mile trip and the Spyder performed perfectly.
Thanks everyone for their input.
Where to take your Spyder should you have trouble again.
Greg Kamer
"It's better to be not riding and wishing you were than be riding and wishing you weren't."
USAF, 20 years, retired
Sheriff's Office, 23 years, retired
2018 Can Am Spyder RT-Limited
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Originally Posted by pegasus1300
Just out of curiosity did you ever check the vacuum hoses mentioned in post #18?Your Spyder is getting to the age when those tend to go bad if they haven't already. They are an easy diy job if you need new ones. I replaced mine just as a precaution. Glad you got your other problem fixed.
I have not done this yet. I did buy the two hoses ($25 DAMN!) so I will do that probably over the winter once we stop riding for the season
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