2008 GS Gauge Didn't Work......

[sledmaster]

So it was the 4th of July and I figured it was a good time to take out my old #006 Spyder, the original 2008 GS. Had not been out all year yet, but I always charge the battery every month, have done so since late 2007. And never have replaced the battery.

So I turn the key and the gauge does not light up. Hmm. Try again, no light up. So I pressed the mode button and hit the starter, fired right up with no hesitation, starter spun at normal speed. Maybe two seconds later, gauge lights up. OK, away we go.

I was well over 100 miles into the ride, no issues, then the gauge resets. First it shuts off, then the needles do their index sweep, everything comes back on. Hmm.

Not more than 2-3 miles later it does it again. I figure the gauge might be flaking out on me. I stop at a lake access to get a drink and stretch. Turn the key on, no gauge light up. Damn. So I push the light-on button in front of the throttle, on comes the gauge. Hmm. Could it be the battery? I just had a charger on it, gave me the green light, but I did not actually check the voltage. Pressed the start button, fires right up, no hesitation. Gauge works all the way back home.

Now I am real curious. Put the charger on it, comes right back to green light. Turn the key, no gauge light up. I pull the left side panels and notice corrosion on the positive terminal of the battery. But, I tell myself, this battery is almost 9 years old, screw it, I really should put in a new one. So I pull the battery and check the voltage. To my surprise, it shows 9.7 volts. WTF? Started like a champ, ran like a champ, but the gauge needed more. Damn.

Lesson learned. A $100 battery is sure better than a $350 gauge. Glad I made it home on that ride!

[sledmaster]

Now this is funny. I thought I had found the problem with an old battery, but I clearly am not as smart as I thought.

So I walk over and install my new YUASA battery, fully changed, and turn the key only to find the gauge still does not light up. Seriously, I was surprised.

OK, at almost 9 years old the ORIGINAL battery had to have been getting close to needing replacement......but the voltage of 9.7 I got when I pulled it yesterday was not accurate, must have been due to the terminal corrosion. I checked the voltage on it today (after cleaning the terminals) and the damn thing was over 12 volts. I felt stupid.

Back to the Spyder, I noticed how the headlights did not come on every time I pressed the "light" button on the front of the throttle block. I got to thinking, we have had a lot of trouble over the years with those three little relays for the fan, lights and the Main 2. I had a brand new set of Omron relays that I had been carrying for years, the original Tyco relays were no good, had the headlights or fan quit working a few times over the years on both of my 2008s.....so I yanked the Tyco relays and installed the Omron ones (278 002 822) and sure enough now everything works.

Being the troubleshooter I am, I started swapping the relays around with the old Tyco ones, and sure enough, I put a Tyco relay in for the headlights and they didn't work; put a Tyco relay in the Main 2 position and the gauge didn't work. Put the new Omron ones back in and everything works good. Whew.

Live and learn? I still feel good about having a new battery in there. For sanity sake I am going to load test the old one and see what I really had in there....update to follow.

[sledmaster]

Well, my almost nine year old original battery load tests perfectly fine with minimal drop.

The reason my gauge didn't light up was a faulty Main Relay 2. I had swapped this relay with the headlight relay early on, but they were both pretty weak to engage so I didn't identify it right away. My fault.

Removed faulty Tyco relays, installed new style Omron relays, all works well. Problem solved. Lesson learned.

Now I wonder if I should leave the new battery in there, or yank it and put my old one back in. Tempting.

[billybovine]

Well that makes more sense. I read your first post and was very skeptical at what you found and your conclusions. But you appeared to have fixed it to your satisfaction. So why should I say anything. The relay being bad fits with the symptoms you had. I think you got it for sure this time.

[Chupaca]

Lot of back and forth but you did find the issue. Now you do have a problem...Run with the old and worry and shelf the new one and keep it charged. Shelf the old one and keep it charged....

[sledmaster]

Maybe the real lesson here is if the gauge doesn't work right on an older GS/RS model, start with the "Main Relay 2".

And if one has an older GS/RS, you might want to open up the fuse/relay box and see if you have Tyco relays or the newer Omron ones. I guess after this experience I would swap out any and all Tyco ones for the newer style Omron. I have had several occasions where the Tyco ones fails in the headlight and fan positions, but this was the first time one flaked out in the Main Relay 2 position. Makes me wonder what else runs through that relay other than the gauge cluster. Turn signals do, not sure what else.

My big mistake was when I first swapped around two of the Tyco relays and nothing seemed to change; because both of them were bad. That one got me!

I did find an old post "Blank Display - Check Engine" from 2010 that also would have saved me some time - http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/s...y-Check-Engine

[Big Arm]

I'll be checking my relays on my '08 GS. Thanks for the heads up.

[Bob Denman]

I remember an old Dirt Bike saying:
"Run the best parts that you have on the bike, and keep the old ones as emergency spares."

Glad to hear that "old #6" got to point it's nose into the wind!
How about some pictures of it?
(Outside of Leno's bike: isn't this the earliest serial number, that got out to the public?)

[Big Arm]

[QUOTE=sledmaster;1153363Then the dealer intro was at Miramar AFB by San Diego like two months later, March 2007, and the rest is history.[/QUOTE]

Miramar is not an AFB........ it is a Naval Air Station.

[jmbiii]

MCAS now.

[the2pid1]

I had the dealer install the new gauge cluster and the same problem occurs. The BUDS system codes said gauge cluster. I replaced all 3 relays with new Omron relays. As soon as it's not raining or cold I'll see if she works, so far so good.

[the2pid1]

Fully tested the 2008 Premiere #238 today with her new Omron 30 amp relays. Everything finally works right! Lights, Fan and the entire gauge cluster. Picking up 3 spares tomorrow at the dealer. The new gauge cluster is an improvement over the first units made. Much clearer, brighter and the gauges are all accurate. Thanks to the OP for the help on the relays.