Results 1 to 2 of 2
  1. #1
    Invalid Emails
    Join Date
    May 2016
    Location
    NW Washington State
    Posts
    223
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Post 12 Volt plug and USB port

    Decided it was time to install an auxiliary 12 VDC plug (cigar type) and while was at it put in a USB charger port. I wanted them in the Frunk and will install the same on the dash later. In the Frunk I can plug in my O2 generator and keep the ipad or laptop charged while riding along during the day. The plugs are easy to find on ebay or Amazon for around $7-$8 with free shipping. (See fig.4 for the USB plug)

    The next thing was to fabricate a harness. Not monumental challenge if you can use wire cutters and a soldering iron and have some shrink tubing laying around or want to pick some up at Home Depot or Lowes. (fig. 1) You will also need some zip ties and high temperature wire loom from the auto parts store.

    harness.jpg Frunk1.jpg frunk2.jpg USB.jpg

    fig. 1 fig. 2 fig. 3 fig. 4

    I removed all the upper side panels back to the battery box and did a fairly close measurement of the length of wire I would need, 6" extra is much better than 6" to short. I got two pieces of automotive 12 ga wire the length I needed to reach from the battery terminals to the frunk area (fig. 2) I used 12 ga to make sure it would carry the amperage I needed, I always overkill since the main fuse for the circuit is only 15 amps. The back of both plugs used push on type spade connectors. I used the correct size spade connectors for the wire but I pulled off the cheesy big plastic insulators to make a neater connection. The first wired I connected were the ones to the 12 V aux plug as they would use more current than the USB plug. I ran jumpers from the 12 V aux plug to the USB plug using 16 ga automotive wire. Again I took off the clunky insulators from the spade connectors. Doing that I then slid shrink tubing over the wires, put the wires in the connectors and crimped them down. After crimping I hit them with a dab of solder to give it a good electrical connection and hold the wire tight. Then slide the shrink tubing over the spade connector and shrink it down. I use two pieces for added protection, it also makes a sort of strain releif to the wire and just looks better. Then I covered the wiring with some high temperature corrugated wire loom from the auto parts store and ran the harness fuse end first from the battery to where I had drilled holes in the back of the frunk (fig. 3) where I wanted the plugs to go. Make sure the location you pick for the holes are where you will have access to and be clear of anything that might be damaged by running the hole saw to far through the plastic, it's easy to do. After making sure all my connections were good and everything worked I used zip ties to hold the harness in place and 'clamping' up the little bit of excess wiring I had. Make sure that when you measue for the harness you leave enough room on the (+) lead at the battery end for the fuse to be accessible. Don't put it on the other end in case you have a short between battery (+) and the fuse location, it could get nasty. Fuses and circuit breakers need to be as close to the power source as possible.

  2. #2
    Active Member drhunt204's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2016
    Location
    S.E. Missouri
    Posts
    163
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default Thank you for sharing your work.

    Great information on a popular modification for RS riders!

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •