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  1. #26
    Very Active Member finless's Avatar
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    I can tell you there is NO warning when the pads wear to the metal!
    A local guy here did that and damaged his rotors. He got no warning.

    Bob
    2011 RT-S SM5 - Black
    Bought June 2013 with 450 miles. 27K on 8-1-2017.
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    2011 RT-S SM5 , Baja Ron Black

  2. #27
    Very Active Member pegasus1300's Avatar
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    When the pads on my car are low there are little metal tell tales that make a rubbing noise when my pads are low. They do no damage to the rotors just tell me to check my brakes. Does the Spyder not have some warning system like this?

    Happy TRAils/NSD
    Paul

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  3. #28
    Very Active Member finless's Avatar
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    No it does not. I know what your talking about too and at least my 2011 RTS does not.

    Bob
    2011 RT-S SM5 - Black
    Bought June 2013 with 450 miles. 27K on 8-1-2017.
    Farkles - DIY Trunk Break Light, HMT Break Light, DIY Mirror Turn Signal Lights, DIY Bluetooth Dongle, DIY iPod Setup, DIY Alarm System Install, Show Chrome front fender / rear saddle bag lights, 4th break light around the trunk, Vented Windshield, Baja Ron Sway Bar, DIY GPS setup, Smooth Spyder, BRP Chrome Mirrors, Adjustable deflectors, Triaxis handlebars, NVB Pegs, Bad Boy Airhorn... More to come
    2011 RT-S SM5 , Baja Ron Black

  4. #29
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    Default Bleeding

    I read or heard that if the brakes are bleed, the bike needs to be hooked up to BUDS, is this true?

  5. #30
    Very Active Member pegasus1300's Avatar
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    Thanks Bob,so now I will add that to my visual inspection list.

    Happy TRAils/NSD
    Paul

    2012 RT L
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  6. #31
    Very Active Member KX5062's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sliderrj View Post
    I read or heard that if the brakes are bleed, the bike needs to be hooked up to BUDS, is this true?

    No. Just don't turn on the key while you're doing it. It would be best to have the key in the house, do your bleed and then when you're done, turn it on and go.
    2020 RTL SE6

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  7. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by patches View Post
    Agree, it is very easy. PM me your email address and I can give you exactly what the manual states to do. Once I started, I didn't even look at it.
    The kits come with everything you need and the bolts already have locktight on them for the rear...the fronts will need them as well. It is best to have a torque wrench if you don't know how to feel it out.

    Im also looking for instructions as well slurpeegirl32@gmail.com

  8. #33
    Very Active Member Wildrice's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Flamewinger View Post
    No using C clamp. I tried but piston wouldn't budge and I didn't want to force it. The lever is supposed to pull the piston back in. But the dealer says they use needle nose pliers to "screw" the piston back in as that is part of the parking brake feature.
    Loosen the brake fluid bleeder valve to allow an ounce or less brake fluid out of the caliper--of course you'll need to add same amount of Brake fluid #4 back into the brake reservoir when the pad replacement job is complete.
    2015 F3's , two 12 volt power outlets Orange & Black

  9. #34
    Active Member Joerolwing's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by yamahog View Post
    For the rear brake caliper manual says to discard bolts when removing, any idea what size and type bolts, can i get them at hardware or dealer only?
    They state this because they are included in the dealer's brake kit. I reused my original ones with my own blue thread locker.

  10. #35
    Active Member Joerolwing's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wildrice View Post
    Loosen the brake fluid bleeder valve to allow an ounce or less brake fluid out of the caliper--of course you'll need to add same amount of Brake fluid #4 back into the brake reservoir when the pad replacement job is complete.
    I made a tool to screw the caliper back in. BajaRon has it now. Automotive tools are too big.

  11. #36
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    Default Brake Failure Warning

    My Brake Failure warning was due to a lodged/stuck brake fluid level float. I merely carefully reached into each brake master cylinder with a spring hook and made sure each float was free. Problem solved.

  12. #37
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    Default Rear brake caliper won't open.

    Hey guys, changed my rear wheel, every thing looked good up to trying to put brake caliper back on.
    Can't get the pad to decompress wide enough. Read on this thread it was pretty much the same as changing car pads.
    Well with my cars, I can take a C clamp and press them back in. Don't work here, any tricks I am missing.

  13. #38
    Very Active Member Bfromla's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Boaz View Post
    Hey guys, changed my rear wheel, every thing looked good up to trying to put brake caliper back on.
    Can't get the pad to decompress wide enough. Read on this thread it was pretty much the same as changing car pads.
    Well with my cars, I can take a C clamp and press them back in. Don't work here, any tricks I am missing.
    If you have a '13 & newer with the Brembo caliper there are two holes on one piston that u will have to use a tool to rotate & screw it in clockwise according to instructions came with my pads from Bajaron Here is a copy:
    Spyder rear caliber : instructions from BajaRon
    "Rear pad install
    The rear caliper also serves as the parking brake the rear piston needs to be retracted as the fronts with a C-clamp.however, it is likely that it will not retract far enough to complete the install. You will see 2 holes in the top of this piston for inserting a tool. The rear piston must be turned CLOCKWISE to retract the parking brake system. It is best to clean the rubber piston boot before this step it may take a good deal of force to start the piston turning but should get easier once the piston begins to turn. Turn the piston until it bottoms out."
    Last edited by Bfromla; 06-04-2017 at 04:04 PM. Reason: Instructions

    2013 STL SE5 BLACK CURRANT
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  14. #39
    Active Member RudyB's Avatar
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    Default Rear caliper

    Quote Originally Posted by Flamewinger View Post
    I've got the rear caliper off and the parking brake cable removed. I am unable to get the piston back in for the new pads. It won't budge. The manual says to rotate lever to pull piston back in but it's seems stuck.

    Help
    Thanks
    On rear calI per the piston has to be screwed in not pushed in I just did rear pads on mine

  15. #40
    Active Member Joerolwing's Avatar
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    Default Brembo piston compression

    Quote Originally Posted by Flamewinger View Post
    I've got the rear caliper off and the parking brake cable removed. I am unable to get the piston back in for the new pads. It won't budge. The manual says to rotate lever to pull piston back in but it's seems stuck.

    Help
    Thanks
    i had the same problem and found that none of the automotive brake tools were small enough so I made one. BajaRon is developing a tool to turn the piston but without the compression feature.
    IMG_2440.jpg

  16. #41
    Very Active Member bcer960's Avatar
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    I just did friends and used an adjustable grinder wrench, it opened big enough and worked great.

    2017 RT-S

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  17. #42
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    Default NEVER ADD FLUID TO BRAKES!!!

    Quote Originally Posted by spyderbitten View Post
    I too was getting the "Brake Failure" message with 15,000 miles. Checked brake fluid and one reservoir was a little low. Topped it off and all is well. That was 3 weeks ago. I doubt you need new pads, check the fluid levels first.

    Mike
    Never add fluid to your reservoir as the pads ware down the fluid goes down.. Put new pads on the fluid goes up!!
    Only add fluid when you flush the system and put new fluid in...

  18. #43
    Very Active Member Peteoz's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Itadsup View Post
    Never add fluid to your reservoir as the pads ware down the fluid goes down.. Put new pads on the fluid goes up!!
    Only add fluid when you flush the system and put new fluid in...
    I’m no brake expert, Itadsup, and this has not happened to me, but there are a number of threads on this where nanny kicks up a brake warning if the fluid level drops a little. Adding a spoonful of fluid clears the warning. That’s why you’ll find the advice to add a little fluid.

    Pete
    Harrington, Australia

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    2021 RT Limited , Brake pedal rubber removed for ease of accessing pedal with size 15 boots. Red

  19. #44
    Active Member bobnaquin's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rkteck View Post
    I took my Spyder in yesterday because I am getting a "Brake failure warning". The dealer called me today and said I need new brake pads and that is the cause of the warning. I only have 9,300 miles on it and don't even use the brakes in most cases. I have the feeling they are just trying to sell something rather than figure out the real problem.

    They also told me that most pads only last 8,000-11,000 miles. Anyone else replace brakes before hitting 10k?
    I have 36,000 miles on a 2008 Spyder. Yes they are the originals. I have not changed them out since they are within spec. They do not squeal. I think you need a better dealer or there is something seriously wrong with your bike.

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