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  1. #1
    Very Active Member vtrider's Avatar
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    Default 2013 RT rear brake pad replacement

    I'm in the process of replacing my rear brake pads on my 2013 RT. I've never done this before and will attempt to do this service myself. However I do have some questions and concerns. Is there anything that I should know, or do as far as adjustments once the brake pads are replaced? Will this affect the ABS sensor with the new brake pads installed? Also, do I just remove the parking brake cable with the electronic parking brake engaged? If I don't engage it when the ignition is turned off I will get the beeping warning signal. I do know that I have the bremo brake caliper on the 2013 Rt, so I will have to use a tool to turn the caliper piston, or whatever it's called in to loosen the brake to install the new ones. I just received my EBC brake pads yesterday. These don't include new hardware, so is it ok to use the old hardware, pins bolts, ect? I will use 242 Loctite where it is needed. I did do a search for a video on this service, but wasn't able to find anything. I don't have the service manual, so that doesn't help. If someone could forward me some " Step by Step How to tips" for replacing these brake pads it would be appreciated. Thanks!

  2. #2
    Very Active Member jcthorne's Avatar
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    Default

    Park the bike. Leave it in neutral and do not set the parking brake. Turn the bike off. Yes she will beep at you but will stop in a few minutes. Block the front wheels so it does not roll. DO NOT TURN THE BIKE BACK ON UNTIL DONE.

    Remove the caliper by removing the two bolts holding it to the bracket. Remove the pads, use the retraction tool to move the piston back into the bore and install the new pads.

    Reinstall the caliper.

    Flush and bleed the brake fluid.

    Use the pedal to pump up the brakes and set the pads against the rotor. Verify good pedal pressure.

    Now turn on the bike and set the parking brake.

    Things should be normal.

    Blue Flame Spyder F3-S
    2015 F3S , Blue Flame

  3. #3
    Very Active Member Chupaca's Avatar
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    Default What he said...

    Just watch out that while twisting around you don't knock the abs sensor out of alignment or you will get a brake failure warning. I like to remove some fluid from the resevoir if you added any due to the brake ware and repalce it with fresh fluid....
    Gene and Ilana De Laney
    Mt. Helix, California

    ​2012 RS sm5
    2012 RS sm5 , 998cc V-Twin 106hp DIY brake and park brake Classic Black

  4. #4
    Very Active Member vtrider's Avatar
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    Default

    Thanks for the info. This is helpful!

  5. #5
    Very Active Member vtrider's Avatar
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    Default

    What else is there to do on this rainy day! I went in the garage and replaced the rear brake pads on my RT. A big THANKS goes to the advise above! It wasn't as bad as I thought it would be and all went very well. Boy, I'm glad that I changed those out. One side was just about worn to the metal on one corner. The front brakes were done at the dealer when I had the front tires replaced several weeks ago. Now I just need to get the rear tire replaced. I have two brand new Kuhmo Ecsta AST tires that I ordered on Ebay from Discount Tire Direct. I will probably go to the dealer to have one of those mounted soon.

  6. #6
    Active Member _..stiffler..'s Avatar
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    Default

    Save yourself a bunch of money and just bring in the rear rim to the dealer to have the tire switched. Step by step video on YouTube.

    Really simple to remove rear tire.

    Stiff

    Sent on Note 5 in Taptalk
    2011 RT Limited , White

  7. #7
    Active Member Dragonfly's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jcthorne View Post
    Park the bike. Leave it in neutral and do not set the parking brake. Turn the bike off. Yes she will beep at you but will stop in a few minutes. Block the front wheels so it does not roll. DO NOT TURN THE BIKE BACK ON UNTIL DONE.

    Remove the caliper by removing the two bolts holding it to the bracket. Remove the pads, use the retraction tool to move the piston back into the bore and install the new pads.

    Reinstall the caliper.

    Flush and bleed the brake fluid.

    Use the pedal to pump up the brakes and set the pads against the rotor. Verify good pedal pressure.

    Now turn on the bike and set the parking brake.

    Things should be normal.
    What is this retraction tool you speak off? I just ordered my new pads from Ron.

  8. #8
    SpyderLovers Sponsor cptjam's Avatar
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    Default Piston

    A standard set of needle nose pliers. Put tips in the divots of the piston, push and turn clockwise until piston is flush with the caliper. Joe
    Joe Meyer



    Dealer for the Outlaw/ROLO laser Alignment system

  9. #9
    Active Member Dragonfly's Avatar
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    Default

    Thanks, have some of those.

  10. #10
    Active Member Dragonfly's Avatar
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    Default Uneven wear

    So I replace my front pads today, started with the right side and the Pads looked new, almost no wear after 18,000 miles so I put the wheel back on. Just for kicks I'd thought and check the left and to my surprise found the outside pad down to the copper backing and the inside with just over 1 mm of pad left. I had received from Ron Pads for all wheels so I replace both sides on the front and bleed the lines.
    What causes this uneven wear between the wheels?
    I had a Dealer do the 14000 mile service and part of that was to replace and bleed brake fluid.

    It is sad that I spend good money for a dealer service and still get crappy service, unfortunately this type of issue is not something that shows up when pulling out of the dealers lot.

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