Windshield & Parking Break not working Spyder RTS

[joe8012]

I recently purchased a used 2011 rt-s sm5 in excellent condition with 4700 mile on it. After a couple of weeks both the parking break and windshield quit working. The parking brake is currently off so I can move the bike. The windshield is about 80% raised. It appears that there is no power going to them. I checked the F3 fuse in the front cargo area and it was ok. The closest dealer is 2 hours away. Before, I go that route, I was hoping someone here would know if this is a minor "fix at home" problem or not. Thanks, Joe

[jwulf74]

Did you check the fuse with a meter? Sometimes they can look good but still might not be. Not sure if there is a relay associated with those or not...there is a relay bank under the seat...

[joe8012]

Did you check the fuse with a meter? Sometimes they can look good but still might not be. Not sure if there is a relay associated with those or not...there is a relay bank under the seat...

I checked the fuse with a meter. It's ok. I did not see a relay in the on line diagram. There is a "WPM" windshield parking break module, but I think is part of the windshield motor assemble.

[Snowbelt Spyder]

F3 supplies power to a lot of stuff through R3. There would be a lot going on if either one was bad. The parking brake and windshield motor don't have much else in common except the module. The windshield switch communicates with the module via the CAN Bus, but the Parking Brake switch does not. Not much you can do except check the connector or do some continuity checks. Otherwise, it calls for replacing the module. Which is the first I've ever heard of one going bad. Check the connector first.

[joe8012]

F3 supplies power to a lot of stuff through R3. There would be a lot going on if either one was bad. The parking brake and windshield motor don't have much else in common except the module. The windshield switch communicates with the module via the CAN Bus, but the Parking Brake switch does not. Not much you can do except check the connector or do some continuity checks. Otherwise, it calls for replacing the module. Which is the first I've ever heard of one going bad. Check the connector first.

Thanks for your feedback.

[rothenbj]

I had a parking brake issue yesterday on my 2015 RT limited. The brake wouldn't turn off. You could hear the relay click, but nothing. They sent a fellow out today and he spent two hours getting the brake released. Is it possible the WPM module is what failed?

[spyderCodes]

I had a parking brake issue yesterday on my 2015 RT limited. The brake wouldn't turn off. You could hear the relay click, but nothing. They sent a fellow out today and he spent two hours getting the brake released. Is it possible the WPM module is what failed?

It is possible, but have you visually checked the Parking Brake mechanism (roller, microswitch, and cable)
It's located on the right side of the spyder under the tupperware.

[rothenbj]

It is possible, but have you visually checked the Parking Brake mechanism (roller, microswitch, and cable)
It's located on the right side of the spyder under the tupperware.

I didn't do any of the checking, just watched the mechanic strip off almost all the tupperware on the front end. He loosened up the parking brake by loosening a bolt on a circular device that held the PB cable. I thought for sure that he could have accomplished the same thing at the rear brake but I'm not the expert on how that would be done.

[rothenbj]

The final result was a bit disheartening. Nothing broke either electrical or mechanical. They cleaned some parts and connectors and it worked so they said. I didn't even get a straight answer on how to disable the parking brake from the rear brake assembly, but I found this video while the bike was at the shop-



After getting the bike home, I checked and the PB assembly is basically the same on the '15 as it is in the video. If I'd ever have the same issue in the future, particularly after the warranty runs out, I'd free the brake from the back, insure that I could run the bike, then re-adjust the PB as described. If there was another problem that was causing the brake to stick, I'd find out fairly quickly and disable it so I could run it to the shop.