Best year to buy?

[ARtraveler]

So when you say "Side by side": you mean that the 1330 is out in front!

Yep! The key word here is prefer. They are both great machines though.

[Bob Denman]

I might love my 2014, but it'll never replace my 2010!

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

I'll be a little bit contrarian here and say a lot depends on what kind of riding you expect to do, and how constrained your finances are. If money is an issue, and you don't plan on doing a lot of 70+ Interstate riding, then seriously look at a 2012 or 2013 RT. Ride it for a year or two and then move up to what you would like to keep for many years or miles. Otherwise, look for a 2014 or 2015. On the other hand, if the two of you plus your traveling stuff is going to be a 350 lbs or more load on the bike, then the more powerful 1330 engine would be the better choice. IMO, the 1330 is not overwhelmingly better than the 998 like so many owners say it is. It is more powerful, has more torque, and gets better gas mileage, but still at 75 mph and over pulling a trailer against a headwind or uphill it does not equal a Goldwing.

[BoilerAnimal]

Thanks for the replys! I have talked to my insurance agent and stopped in at my bank and all systems are go! Now to find a Spyder to call my own. Or more correctly, my wife and I can call OUR own! I will give strong consideration to a 2014, based on all the positive responses here.

One more question resulting from the comments on service requirements. What is the difference in dealer required maintenance visits between Spyders with the 1330 engine verses the 998? Also, how often would a clutch need to be replaced with a manual transmission, given proper use, no excessive slipping of it, etc?

I've got to get some sleep now, I've been up since 4:30 yesterday afternoon. I've got tonight and tomorrow night off, so I put the extra time to good use!

Thanks to everyone for the great answers, Bob.

[ARtraveler]

Thanks for the replys! I have talked to my insurance agent and stopped in at my bank and all systems are go! Now to find a Spyder to call my own. Or more correctly, my wife and I can call OUR own! I will give strong consideration to a 2014, based on all the positive responses here.

One more question resulting from the comments on service requirements. What is the difference in dealer required maintenance visits between Spyders with the 1330 engine verses the 998? Also, how often would a clutch need to be replaced with a manual transmission, given proper use, no excessive slipping of it, etc?

I've got to get some sleep now, I've been up since 4:30 yesterday afternoon. I've got tonight and tomorrow night off, so I put the extra time to good use!

Thanks to everyone for the great answers, Bob.

Hands down, the 1330 has less frequent service. Oil changes are at 9,300 mile intervals (OR--at least once a year), whichever comes first. Valve adjustment service is not required on the 1330's. That will save you about $800. The 998's require oil change service every 4,500 miles or so and valve check service is recommended every 14,000 miles.

Can't help with the manual transmission question. I had a manual on the 2008 before the semi autos were available. Have driven SE versions since then.

[DrewNJ]

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Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

[Buckeye Bleau]

[QUOTE=BoilerAnimal;1134930]Hi everyone! Found this site doing research on Spyders and I'm TOTALLY impressed! The knowledge and helpfulness displayed here is unsurpassed. Now I am going to ask for your help in picking my Spyder.


My wife and I figured to get a used Spyder RT, probably a 2010 to 2013. I'm leery of the 2014's and newer because of the DESS errors. My big question is, which year and why would you recommend to a new Spyder rider to buy and what would you stay away from and why?

Well, I am not as learned as the others, but I will try to answer your question, as asked. I will premise the conversation with the fact that I am also over 60 and bought my first Spyder just last fall and it is a 2013 RTL. It has had ALL of the work done on it including the extra air intakes, which give away the update and all other recalls. I got it because of the price, i rode it 5,300 miles in two months+ before winter here in Ohio.

Since then, despite the horrible spring here, I managed to log an additional 2K on it. I love it, I trust it, and I would buy it again. All of that being said, if you can afford the extra expense, I would also suggest that you move to the 2014 or + models, for the mileage, power, and whatever. If you are on a budget, get a '13 just check that the heat issue was addressed, first.

Joe

[SpyderAnn01]

Thanks for the replys! I have talked to my insurance agent and stopped in at my bank and all systems are go! Now to find a Spyder to call my own. Or more correctly, my wife and I can call OUR own! I will give strong consideration to a 2014, based on all the positive responses here.

One more question resulting from the comments on service requirements. What is the difference in dealer required maintenance visits between Spyders with the 1330 engine verses the 998? Also, how often would a clutch need to be replaced with a manual transmission, given proper use, no excessive slipping of it, etc?

I've got to get some sleep now, I've been up since 4:30 yesterday afternoon. I've got tonight and tomorrow night off, so I put the extra time to good use!

Thanks to everyone for the great answers, Bob.

That is an excellent question. The cost to own a 1330 is definitely much less than a 998. The 998 tends to have an oil drinking problem and the 1330 does not. The maintenance intervals are much, much longer on the 1330. I have a manual transmission on my 14 and I have not had to replace the clutch in 76,000 miles. I had a part on the shifter go bad but it was a warranty repair that happened at approx. 65,000 miles.

[Commander]

Go with the 1330's a better machine all around.......

[Bob Denman]

One more question resulting from the comments on service requirements. What is the difference in dealer required maintenance visits between Spyders with the 1330 engine verses the 998? Also, how often would a clutch need to be replaced with a manual transmission, given proper use, no excessive slipping of it, etc?

[Jim&Teresa]

I would strongly recommend a 2014 or newer RT. for the following reasons.

More reliable, despite what you may be reading the DESS problem has only affected a small percentage of the RTs

An RT is best suited for 2 up riding, comfort, safety and storage being main issues.

2014s have bigger brakes, tires, engines, 6 speed rather than 5 speed, dual radiators up front, reverse radiator fans, much less required maintenance Etc.

Just my .02 cents worth and i have had every year RTs from 2012 thru 2015.


Cruzr Joe

I had a 2012 RT Limited...great bike and dependable. However, the new powertrain 1330 cc triple and 6 speed transmission far outweigh any concerns you would have. I've got over 27,000 miles on my 2014 RT Limited with ZERO issues! If you can afford it, go for the 2014 RT or newer ......from one 61 year old rider to another! Best of luck with your purchase!

[Bob Denman]

If you don't have a Spyder... Almost ANY year bike, is the best year to buy!
(But some of them, are better than others... )

[BoilerAnimal]

If you don't have a Spyder... Almost ANY year bike, is the best year to buy!
(But some of them, are better than others... )

Very true!!! But we do plan to be selective and get the most bang for the buck. Does appear to be a pretty significant difference in potential maintenance costs between the newer and older models. Any figures for the cost of the 14000 mile valve adjustment and is that every 14000 miles?

I want to thank everyone for the help, you have been very informative, Bob.

[garageguy]

I opted to pay more for a '15. Had looked at '13's but SIGNIFICANT improvements in the RT platform convinced me.

[Bob Denman]

Any figures for the cost of the 14000 mile valve adjustment and is that every 14000 miles?

I believe that Akspyderman has mentioned that the valve adjustment was about 600 bucks...
BUT...
There seems to be little reason to hold to BRP's schedule for that adjustment. We have not had anybody report back yet, that the valves were out of spec at that interval. Lots of folks have stretched it out to 25,000 miles, or more.
For the record: I did NOT have them checked on my 2010 RT. When I traded the bike in (with 17,208 miles on it), everything was still "tight & right".

[ARtraveler]

I believe that Akspyderman has mentioned that the valve adjustment was about 600 bucks...
BUT...
There seems to be little reason to hold to BRP's schedule for that adjustment. We have not had anybody report back yet, that the valves were out of spec at that interval. Lots of folks have stretched it out to 25,000 miles, or more.
For the record: I did NOT have them checked on my 2010 RT. When I traded the bike in (with 17,208 miles on it), everything was still "tight & right".

I did my first at 14,000. Stretched the 2nd one out to 28,000 on my second bike. Do not plan to do it before 50,000 on the 2011 if I still have it then. My choice, my gamble.

[cnl414]

I have read all of the posts here and do understand the reluctance of many to get a 2013 due to the problems that it had with heat. I am very happy with my 2013 after the recall was completed. There is absolutely NO heat coming in from the glove box area anymore and as a matter of fact I kind of miss it a little in the winter. I have also put a 2014 grill on the right side and that has cleared up the heat on the right foot area and I like the new sound that it makes (more rumble). As to drinking oil---I haven't had that problem. I now have almost 10,000 miles on it so that may be a problem later or not. Don't know.

I have also compared it to a 2016 RT Special that my dealer let me take on a long group ride while my husbands new bike was being ordered and it had warm air where my 13 RTL is now cool.

In conclusion: I am happy with the 2013 now and the only reason that I would trade mine would be to get one like Neal's F3 Limited. . He has been forewarned that the next one is mine. lol
If you are thinking about getting a used 2013 and all recalls have been done then by all means do so if the price is right without any worries about the heat issue.

Charlotte

[Deanna777]

My first spyder was a 2012RTS-SE5 ( it had the 998 engine) then I took a demo ride on 2014RTS-SE6 ( @ Spyderfest in Springfield, MO) WOW!!!.

What a difference quiter/ bigger engine 1330, smoother ride, you can go farther on a tank of gas, comfortable, 6 speed transmission ( Which I wanted) and all the new upgrades that BRP made to the 2014 RTS'S.
The break-in period on the 2014RTS-SE 6's is 3,000 miles, less maintance, Warranty, B.E.S.T. ( extended).

Go to "4 Sale by Owner And WTB "under Forum" on this site and take a look.


My current spyder is a 2014RTS-SE6 ( Cognac) After, I got back from Spyderfest I went to Walt's Sales & Service ( in Derby, VT.) in July,2014, and I bought a 2014RTS-SE6. I have over 11,000 miles on it now. Go to "Deanna777 my Album" and see pictures of the farkles that I have put on it.

We are here to help, ask questions.

Deanna

[cuznjohn]

any year you have the money to do so