Belt tension

[Brogers57]

I feel like I've read somewhere here that BRP released new belt tensions? TSB? Anybody have a link or know what they should be? Dealer doing first service minus oil change and I would love to get rid of that vibration at 70ish mph!


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[pitzerwm]

My understanding is that they jack up the tension 240+/- which in a number of members think that it is too high, and use more like 180. I used a belt tensioner, seems to fix my problem.

[The Governor]

Get the smooth spyder belt tensioner. Fixed.
I also run about 180.... You will be amazed at the difference.

[JP58]

Get the smooth spyder belt tensioner. Fixed.
I also run about 180.... You will be amazed at the difference.

I installed the smooth Spyder tensioner and still get to much vibs. It's better though. I have it set at 14. Do I need to loosen the belt.

[GeorgiaBill]

BeRight was generous enough to send the TST in PDF format to those requesting it. I'll 'pay it forward' if you send me a private message with your email.

I'm not sure how cut and paste of a PDF will work, but let's try it. Hope this posts OK and hope it helps.

-Bill

The paste didn't work, so I edited it out.

BOTTOM LINE:
2008-2012 270N +- 100
2013-2015 RS/ST/RT 630N +- 100
2015 F3 300N +- 100

-Bill

I feel like I've read somewhere here that BRP released new belt tensions? TSB? Anybody have a link or know what they should be? Dealer doing first service minus oil change and I would love to get rid of that vibration at 70ish mph!


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[GeorgiaBill]

I installed the SmoothSpyder last week, initially setting the tension at just short of 11 pounds. The vibration was gone at 73 mph, but had some at 50 mph, and some vibration at deceleration. Much better, since the 73 mph range is much more important to me for cruising. I then set the tensioner at 12, and it was worse. Then dialed back to 10 and have ridden about 600 miles since then, and I have a little vibration in the 79 mph range. Much, much better.

I will probably experiment some more eventually but for now I'm delighted with the results.

Jim was super helpful and responsive, and was also very patient with me.

-Bill

I installed the smooth Spyder tensioner and still get to much vibs. It's better though. I have it set at 14. Do I need to loosen the belt.

[Brogers57]

Sent ya a PM. 630N is around 141 pounds, that seems low to me? Who knows What is everybody else running? Tension on ground or air?

[GearHd]

These are the numbers I've gone by that BajaRon had posted.

[Brian Kay]

I installed the SmoothSpyder last week, initially setting the tension at just short of 11 pounds. The vibration was gone at 73 mph, but had some at 50 mph, and some vibration at deceleration. Much better, since the 73 mph range is much more important to me for cruising. I then set the tensioner at 12, and it was worse. Then dialed back to 10 and have ridden about 600 miles since then, and I have a little vibration in the 79 mph range. Much, much better.

I will probably experiment some more eventually but for now I'm delighted with the results.

Jim was super helpful and responsive, and was also very patient with me.

-Bill

Bill,
I'm coming over to adjust mine, since you're well versed and have a lot of practice with the tensioner. Maybe next Saturday early morning?

[Brogers57]

These are the numbers I've gone by that BajaRon had posted.

Awesome, thanks. My Krikit II should be here Monday. Going to play around with it to see where I am at.

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

There are many versions of this / His chart..........I don't think that chart is the current best settings.............I believe they have been lowered..........Mike

[GearHd]

There are many versions of this / His chart..........I don't think that chart is the current best settings.............I believe they have been lowered..........Mike [emoji106]

Is this just a guess or a proven fact from BRP? My service manual states 1050N +/- 150N.

[BajaRon]

Sent ya a PM. 630N is around 141 pounds, that seems low to me? Who knows What is everybody else running? Tension on ground or air?

It depends on whether you're measurement is with wheel elevated or on the ground. 630n is a bit low if you make the adjustment with the wheel on the ground. But if you do the tension with wheel elevated the actual working tension will be much higher.

[Brogers57]

Awesome. Ron what would you suggest?


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[BajaRon]

There are many versions of this / His chart..........I don't think that chart is the current best settings.............I believe they have been lowered..........Mike

BRP keeps changing the recommended specs. (so much for the all knowing BRP engineers that some profess). But the conversion numbers in the chart remain accurate of course. I now put a disclaimer on my chart recommending that you check the current spec sheet for your model/year before performing the adjustment.

It is obvious that the adjustment isn't critical (to a point). And that all the changes are an attempt to reduce vibration rather than addressing any inherent mechanical issue. It is true that if you get the belt too tight (set tension too high) you run the risk of damage to wheel or output shaft bearings. But this was address in the first few waves of spec. adjustments back in the early years.

[Brogers57]

So really 202 pounds (900 Newtons) elevated could be whatish on the ground? Sorry I know that may be hard to answer.

[BajaRon]

Awesome. Ron what would you suggest?


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I am not sure in what aspect of this process you are asking about.

With the 2008-2012 Spyders and their lower belt tension specs., I suggest checking tension with the Spyder on the ground. As you can see there is quite a wide spread in acceptable tension. Checking with the Spyder on the ground will tell you if you are in spec or not. If not you will have to raise the Spyder anyway and use the 'Wheel off the Ground' numbers. Be aware that when you finally get the belt where you want it, tightening the axle bolt will change the tension (probably increase) somewhat. Usually not enough to worry about. Especially if you're in the middle of the tension spectrum.

For the later models with higher tension requirements you have to raise the Spyder because 'Wheel on the Ground' specs exceed the Krikit's ability. If you are using another form of belt tension gauge that will measure beyond 300 lbs., then you could do the conversion to the 'Wheel Elevated' numbers and do this with the wheel on the ground.

Every Spyder (and rider for that matter) are different in respect to vibration. My Spyder belt vibrates and it doesn't bother me. This same vibration might drive someone else crazy. When, where, and how much vibration you get is pretty much infinitely variable. Sometimes adjusting the belt just moves the vibration to another speed. But you can experiment with belt tension (within specs for your Spyder) to find your 'Sweet Spot'.

Remember, when you adjust belt tension it usually takes 100 miles or so for the belt to settle in to it's new environment. So give it a chance to do so before trying again. You might be surprised.

In the final analysis, you will need an aftermarket belt tensioner to get the greatest reduction in vibration possible.

[Brogers57]

I am not sure in what aspect of this process you are asking about.

With the 2008-2012 Spyders and their lower belt tension specs., I suggest checking tension with the Spyder on the ground. As you can see there is quite a wide spread in acceptable tension. Checking with the Spyder on the ground will tell you if you are in spec or not. If not you will have to raise the Spyder anyway and use the 'Wheel off the Ground' numbers. Be aware that when you finally get the belt where you want it, tightening the axle bolt will change the tension (probably increase) somewhat. Usually not enough to worry about. Especially if you're in the middle of the tension spectrum.

For the later models with higher tension requirements you have to raise the Spyder because 'Wheel on the Ground' specs exceed the Krikit's ability. If you are using another form of belt tension gauge that will measure beyond 300 lbs., then you could do the conversion to the 'Wheel Elevated' numbers and do this with the wheel on the ground.

Every Spyder (and rider for that matter) are different in respect to vibration. My Spyder belt vibrates and it doesn't bother me. This same vibration might drive someone else crazy. When, where, and how much vibration you get is pretty much infinitely variable. Sometimes adjusting the belt just moves the vibration to another speed. But you can experiment with belt tension (within specs for your Spyder) to find your 'Sweet Spot'.

Remember, when you adjust belt tension it usually takes 100 miles or so for the belt to settle in to it's new environment. So give it a chance to do so before trying again. You might be surprised.

In the final analysis, you will need an aftermarket belt tensioner to get the greatest reduction in vibration possible.

Sorry was talking about poundage. All great info. Thank you! I'm looking to move the vibration to a higher speed past the highway cruising speed of 70-75mph.

[BajaRon]

Sorry was talking about poundage. All great info. Thank you! I'm looking to move the vibration to a higher speed past the highway cruising speed of 70-75mph.

The conversion from wheel off the ground to wheel on the ground is not lineal. It is a higher percentage at the low end and lower percentage at the high end. I would assume the same general conversion would apply to the higher tension Spyders but I have not checked it.

But like I said. I'd start in the middle of the spectrum for your model and year. If that doesn't do it for you, experiment with higher or lower tensions within the current specs for your model and year.

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

See this post for a copy of the Tech Service Tip from BRP regarding the lower tension number. Basically, what they are saying is any setting from about 530 N to 1200 N is OK. These numbers are the low and high including the tolerance. BRP's recommendation is set the tension to whatever number will cause the belt vibration to occur at a speed range that is acceptable to you.

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/s...=1#post1050479

I asked the question awhile ago what tensions were SL members using but there was no significant response. The problem with experimenting to find the tension that works best for you is the enormous amount of time and trouble it takes to make tension changes.

If I remember correctly I've got mine set to about 190 to 200 lbs on the Krikit II. I do get some belt vibration above 80, particularly under hard pull or rough pavement. This is with a Smoothspyder installed.

[GearHd]

So what's the rule of thumb, the higher the tension the higher the speed that you might get belt vibration?

[BajaRon]

So what's the rule of thumb, the higher the tension the higher the speed that you might get belt vibration?

I do not think there is necessarily a correlation. I believe the frequency goes up or down with tension (lower tension, lower frequency). Kind of like a guitar string. But I don't think there is a prescription for where the vibration occurs. Or how to move it up or down the MPH scale.

As mentioned, experimentation can be a real pain. That is the beauty of belt tensioner. Though they aren't always the magic bullet everyone is hoping for. They are pretty universally a good place to start as long as your belt is within spec.

[GearHd]

Mine was at 180 on the Krikit and then I bumped it up to 220 right before l brought it in for a laser alignment. I thought I was doing the right thing by bringing it into the 1050N spec prior to the laser alignment. I guess I should have just left it. I haven't noticed any vibrations though.

[fjray]

as I understand it the krikit is supposed to be positioned in the middle between the pulleys. My big paws don't allow me to get in the middle so do you folks remove plastic or just get as close as you can. This process doesn't seem to be rocket science but I'm tired of chasing belt vibes so would like to get it close. I'm showing the same reading on the bottom run as on top. Is it bad form to do the measurements from the bottom??? With the wheel off the ground it seems it ought to be equal. Last question is should the tension be set with the smooth spyder set or not????

[BajaRon]

as I understand it the krikit is supposed to be positioned in the middle between the pulleys. My big paws don't allow me to get in the middle so do you folks remove plastic or just get as close as you can. This process doesn't seem to be rocket science but I'm tired of chasing belt vibes so would like to get it close. I'm showing the same reading on the bottom run as on top. Is it bad form to do the measurements from the bottom??? With the wheel off the ground it seems it ought to be equal. Last question is should the tension be set with the smooth spyder set or not????

It's easier to push down than it is to push up. The belt tension should be identical with the wheel lifted. The easier the process the more likely to get an accurate reading. But if you're getting the same reading several times that means you're fine.