Results 1 to 6 of 6
  1. #1
    Active Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Location
    Indiana
    Posts
    218
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default Question on removing the lower bolt on the Elka rear shock

    I have a 2008 GS with an Elka rear shock. I'm trying to remove the rear tire using the technique that Lamonster uses, by removing the lower bolt from the rear shock. I'm having a hard time getting the bolt out. I've removed the nut and jacked up the whole bike so that the rear tire is just touching the ground. The bolt should just slide out, but it seems to be binding like it is under pressure from the shock or the bolt has been bent slightly. The bolt will turn, but doesn't want to slide out. Is there something that you have to do different with the Elka shocks? Any help would be appreciated.

  2. #2
    Very Active Member garb55's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Coolidge Arizona
    Posts
    1,393
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    There is nothing different with the Elka shock
    did you try to remove the wheel and leave the shock hooked up
    I did that on my 2008 GS
    if you need to remove the shock you will have to hammer it out
    You can buy a new one at Lowes or Home Depot
    Just make sure the new bolt is the same grade or higher
    Don
    Now 2014 RT Limited Cognac
    Was 2008 GS SM5

    Don Garbarino

    Cup Holder
    GPS locking holder
    Mud flap
    Modified KNOTT grill
    Phone holder and charger
    Trailer hitch
    Dual air horn
    Auxiliary fuse box with relays
    Heated clothing controller
    volt/oil pressure gauge
    Sequential signals in mirror
    Tri Axis Handle bars
    Baja Ron anti sway bar/heim links
    shorty antenna
    And many more

  3. #3
    Very Active Member IGETAROUND's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Kalamazoo, Mi
    Posts
    1,827
    Spyder Garage
    1

    Default removing the lower rear shock bolt

    No trick,you just have to raise the rear wheel off the ground; then very gently and slowly while lowering and you're trying to turn the bolt. All of a sudden it will become perfectly balanced and will come out quite easily; unless the bolt has been bent. This is difficult to describe. I also found it easier to find the sweet spot while raising rather than lowering. Hope this helps.

    Al in Kazoo
    All the great movements in the world began with a cup of coffee!

    2018 F3-T


    My mods: Can am Trailer hitch, USB and 12 volt power outlets, Gustason windshield, Bead rider seat cushion, battery harness for electric gear and battery tender, Time out trailer.
    2018 F3-T , Pearl White

  4. #4
    Active Member ssmcclub's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    massapequa ny 11758
    Posts
    369
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    Do what Igetaround said I did it and it worked
    richie spyder

  5. #5
    Active Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Location
    Indiana
    Posts
    218
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    I used igetaround's technique to get the bolt loose enough that I can turn it easily by hand. That also makes the shock move enough to tell me the bolt is bent also. So I'm going to have to hammer it out it looks like, or cut it with a reciprocating saw.

  6. #6
    Invalid Emails
    Join Date
    Aug 2016
    Location
    New Zealand
    Posts
    8
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    I know this is an old thread but here's a better answer. With the rear jacked up the bottom bolt should be somewhat movable, to get it lose place a car scissor jack between the rear tire and under the seat. There is a block of aluminium with a bolt through it (2010 RS) that you can place the top of the jack against. With hand tightening you can get the excess pressure off the shock. Job done.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •