Two and a half weeks ago I pull the Spyder out of the garage to wash it. Start up normal, pull it out and hit the kill switch ( I always use kill switch) to shut down, engine shuts down, turn the key off and remove. Notice the cluster is still on. Put the key back in and try to turn it to the on position but it will not turn. Pull out key again, cluster remains on. Re-engage the kill switch and hit start. Starts normally without the key in the ignition and the ignition in the off position. Key is not even near the bike. Did this several more times with same result. Put my gear on, start the engine and ride to nearest dealer 7 miles away. BRP replaced with new ignition under BEST warranty. So the good is BRP covered the cost, less the $50 deductible, including a third key (I had 3). The bad is another 2&1/2 weeks without a ride. In December I was down for 3 weeks because of a bad reverse actuator. That time I had to be towed. Even though all this has been covered by warranty I am starting to loose confidence in the Spyder. Last thing I need is to be on a long trip and have another problem. I've never had a vehicle of any kind (including boats) that has been subject to so many failures and such long repair times.
2014 RTL SE6 Pearl White, Mfg. date 1/28/2014
BRP heated seat, BRP backrest, SpyderFlap, Tricled mirror turn signals, KOTT Grills, BRP adjustable side air vent, Bumpskid, Bajaron sway bar and heim links, Spyderpops belt guard, Tricled day lighters, Tricled fender LEDs, CD HMT running/brake LEDs
Two and a half weeks ago I pull the Spyder out of the garage to wash it. Start up normal, pull it out and hit the kill switch ( I always use kill switch) to shut down, engine shuts down, turn the key off and remove. Notice the cluster is still on. Put the key back in and try to turn it to the on position but it will not turn. Pull out key again, cluster remains on. Re-engage the kill switch and hit start. Starts normally without the key in the ignition and the ignition in the off position. Key is not even near the bike. Did this several more times with same result. Put my gear on, start the engine and ride to nearest dealer 7 miles away. BRP replaced with new ignition under BEST warranty. So the good is BRP covered the cost, less the $50 deductible, including a third key (I had 3). The bad is another 2&1/2 weeks without a ride. In December I was down for 3 weeks because of a bad reverse actuator. That time I had to be towed. Even though all this has been covered by warranty I am starting to loose confidence in the Spyder. Last thing I need is to be on a long trip and have another problem. I've never had a vehicle of any kind (including boats) that has been subject to so many failures and such long repair times.
Never use the kill switch on motorcycles unless there is an emergency. Kill switches go bad. Use key to turn Spyder on and off.
Sounds like the D.E.S.S. error. Did you get a D.E.S.S. Error on your screen?
The D.E.S.S. error looks like this: I started a thread " D.E.S.S. KEY CODE AGAIN!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!" By Deanna777.
Their is a lot of excellent information on that thread, and the Ignition Switch is UNDER WARRANTY! On the above thread their are part #'s listed for : Model Year, Spyder Model.
This is what a BRP Tech ( an email) sent me thru a my dealership said" We have had cases where a cell phone or magnetic card, placed near the ignition switch cause this. This includes any device that may emit some type of frequency."
Have your dealership OPEN UP A CASE WITH BRP.
What year is your spyder?
Did you have any electronics' in/or near your spyder?
If you get the D.E.S.S error again try this: " Turn on/off immediately DO NOT LET THE SYSTEM SHUT DOWN and do that for 4 to 5 cycles.
Get the D.E.S.S model replaced also, it is UNDER WARRANTY.
Keep us posted and please post on the " D.E.S.S. KEY CODE AGAIN!!!!!!!!!!!! by Deanna777.
I have a 2014 RTS-SE6 the first D.E.S.S. module was replaced I had 6,994 miles, and the 2nd D.E.S.S. Module was replace I had 8,740 miles( ignition switch was replaced at the same time).
I hope you don't get stranded.
Deanna
Current Spyder - 2023 F3 LTD Special Mineral Blue
Red LED NANO Saddlebag Marker Lights with Full Illumination
Sequential Fender LED'S (Amber/Red) with Safety Reflector
Dual Power Plate (12 V & USB ports)
Gremlin Bell
Rear Trunk Organizer (4 holders, 2 Elastic Holders)
Lamonster "Top Cuff" with adjustable drink Holder
SpyderPops Missing Guard Belt
Console Accent Trim (Carbon Fiber Domed Black)
Ultimate F3 Floorboards
Front Fairing Service Access Door Covers (Carbon Fiber Doomed Black)
Sway Bar with Links
Rolo Laser Alignment
Half Cover
A-Arm Daytime Dual Color LED Running Lights with Blinker Module
Hi-Viz DRL and Sequential Mirrors lights
Marinco 12Volt Power Receptacle with polarized leads & slide lock
Show chrome Trunk Shock
Two and a half weeks ago I pull the Spyder out of the garage to wash it. Start up normal, pull it out and hit the kill switch ( I always use kill switch) to shut down, engine shuts down, turn the key off and remove. Notice the cluster is still on. Put the key back in and try to turn it to the on position but it will not turn. Pull out key again, cluster remains on. Re-engage the kill switch and hit start. Starts normally without the key in the ignition and the ignition in the off position. Key is not even near the bike. Did this several more times with same result. Put my gear on, start the engine and ride to nearest dealer 7 miles away. BRP replaced with new ignition under BEST warranty. So the good is BRP covered the cost, less the $50 deductible, including a third key (I had 3). The bad is another 2&1/2 weeks without a ride. In December I was down for 3 weeks because of a bad reverse actuator. That time I had to be towed. Even though all this has been covered by warranty I am starting to loose confidence in the Spyder. Last thing I need is to be on a long trip and have another problem. I've never had a vehicle of any kind (including boats) that has been subject to so many failures and such long repair times.
This is par for the course. I know people that had their Spyders at dealers for months at a time. I would call BRP and start a complaining about the service. I trailer mine, when I go more then 200 miles and then only go 200 miles from the trailer, my AAA towing only good for 200 miles. This is due to the good service tech and availability of parts. Washing a Spyder with to much water can lead to these kind of problems.
No DESS error. This is just a different (new?) failure mode for the ignition switch.
2014 RTL SE6 Pearl White, Mfg. date 1/28/2014
BRP heated seat, BRP backrest, SpyderFlap, Tricled mirror turn signals, KOTT Grills, BRP adjustable side air vent, Bumpskid, Bajaron sway bar and heim links, Spyderpops belt guard, Tricled day lighters, Tricled fender LEDs, CD HMT running/brake LEDs
This is par for the course. I know people that had their Spyders at dealers for months at a time. I would call BRP and start a complaining about the service. I trailer mine, when I go more then 200 miles and then only go 200 miles from the trailer, my AAA towing only good for 200 miles. This is due to the good service tech and availability of parts. Washing a Spyder with to much water can lead to these kind of problems.
Mike
If it gets where I don't feel comfortable going more than 200 miles I will get something else other than a Spyder. Not there yet but close. It's really too bad because I do enjoy the ride immensely.
2014 RTL SE6 Pearl White, Mfg. date 1/28/2014
BRP heated seat, BRP backrest, SpyderFlap, Tricled mirror turn signals, KOTT Grills, BRP adjustable side air vent, Bumpskid, Bajaron sway bar and heim links, Spyderpops belt guard, Tricled day lighters, Tricled fender LEDs, CD HMT running/brake LEDs
My cluster stays on a bit every time I shut down but to be able to start it up with out the key in or in range is a new one.... glad they got you fixed up but sorry you have had these issues....
Gene and Ilana De Laney Mt. Helix, California
2012 RS sm5
2012 RS sm5 , 998cc V-Twin 106hp DIY brake and park brake Classic Black
Sounds like the D.E.S.S. error. Did you get a D.E.S.S. Error on your screen?
The D.E.S.S. error looks like this: I started a thread " D.E.S.S. KEY CODE AGAIN!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!" By Deanna777.
Their is a lot of excellent information on that thread, and the Ignition Switch is UNDER WARRANTY! On the above thread their are part #'s listed for : Model Year, Spyder Model.
This is what a BRP Tech ( an email) sent me thru a my dealership said" We have had cases where a cell phone or magnetic card, placed near the ignition switch cause this. This includes any device that may emit some type of frequency."
Have your dealership OPEN UP A CASE WITH BRP.
What year is your spyder?
Did you have any electronics' in/or near your spyder?
If you get the D.E.S.S error again try this: " Turn on/off immediately DO NOT LET THE SYSTEM SHUT DOWN and do that for 4 to 5 cycles.
Get the D.E.S.S model replaced also, it is UNDER WARRANTY.
Keep us posted and please post on the " D.E.S.S. KEY CODE AGAIN!!!!!!!!!!!! by Deanna777.
I have a 2014 RTS-SE6 the first D.E.S.S. module was replaced I had 6,994 miles, and the 2nd D.E.S.S. Module was replace I had 8,740 miles( ignition switch was replaced at the same time).
I hope you don't get stranded.
Deanna
I'm having the DESS Key issue. My bike has been in the shop for 2 days. They cannot get it to duplicate. So my cell phones may be causing this? Hummm. How long does it take to replace the DESS module? I will let my dealer know tomorrow about the cell phone or any other electronic. I just had wireless security cameras installed in my house also. Let me know if this could be causing it.
Never use the kill switch on motorcycles unless there is an emergency. Kill switches go bad. Use key to turn Spyder on and off.
I disagree with this statement. MSF teaches to ALWAYS use the kill switch. This is because every motorcycle has the kill switch in the same place while key locations are different. (1) If you are riding a different bike, you will reflexively know where the kill switch is, and (2) If you are in the habit of using the kill switch then in an "emergency" your habit will have you use the kill switch.
The operators manual also recommends you first turn off the engine with the engine switch, then turn the key off! My dealer recommended to follow this procedure because the electronic brain of the can am then shuts down in a orderly fashion. When you shut down a computer there is an orderly sequence you follow not just cut power and hope all is ok! The engine switch is just that a switch to turn off the engine, and the key switch turns on and off the electrical system in an orderly fashion! Cheers Jim