While I had things all apart I decided to get a set of the LED headlight bulbs from Reggie at Tricled.. you all know who he is and the quality products and service he offers....
Install is pretty easy, good instructions. I just pulled the entire headlamp units out of the Spyder and put them on the bench.
You have to watch the connections.. the ones on my Spyder are wired backwards, but the black is always ground. Just had to revers the plug, but then it will no longer snap closed.. so you have to tape it.
One tricky part was getting the driver box down inside the fixture. You can see where it is. You can get it most the way and then you just have to give it one good push with a screwdriver, pliers, etc.
Have not been out to test them on the road, but I'm impressed already.
This was another thing to do so I'll never have to change bulbs again.
Spyder #1 - 2008 GS SM5 Premier Edition #1977. RIP after 80,000 miles.
Spyder #2 - 2012 RT SM5. Traded in after 24,000 miles.
Spyder #3 - 2015 F3 SM6. Put 13,000 miles on and sold it.
Spyder #4 - 2017 F3 SM6. Too good of a deal to pass up!
Spyder #1 - 2008 GS SM5 Premier Edition #1977. RIP after 80,000 miles.
Spyder #2 - 2012 RT SM5. Traded in after 24,000 miles.
Spyder #3 - 2015 F3 SM6. Put 13,000 miles on and sold it.
Spyder #4 - 2017 F3 SM6. Too good of a deal to pass up!
I will installing Tricled headlights on my Slingshot, the process is a little easy, I guess because there is more room to work in. Very good point on the wiring connection, the Slingshot is just about the same. Plug and play. Enjoy seeing better when riding in the dark.
One tricky part was getting the driver box down inside the fixture. You can see where it is. You can get it most the way and then you just have to give it one good push with a screwdriver, pliers, etc.
I wonder if I could have done with the Xenon Depot LEDs I put in. It sure didn't seem like there was enough room to push the driver box all the way into the housing, but maybe I should have just been more pushy!
2014 Copper RTS
Tri-Axis bars, CB, BajaRon sway bar & shock adjusters, SpyderPop's Bumpskid, NBV peg brackets, LED headlights and modulator, Wolo trumpet air horns, trailer hitch, custom trailer harness, high mount turn signals, Custom Dynamics brake light, LED turn signal lights on mirrors, LED strip light for a dash light, garage door opener, LED lights in frunk, trunk, and saddlebags, RAM mounts and cradles for tablet (for GPS) and phone (for music), and Smooth Spyder belt tensioner.
I hope you let Reggie know. You know how he hates gliches in his products.
The problem isn't with Reggie's product.. that is wired correctly. The problem is that BRP wired some of the connectors on the Spyder's backwards.....
Spyder #1 - 2008 GS SM5 Premier Edition #1977. RIP after 80,000 miles.
Spyder #2 - 2012 RT SM5. Traded in after 24,000 miles.
Spyder #3 - 2015 F3 SM6. Put 13,000 miles on and sold it.
Spyder #4 - 2017 F3 SM6. Too good of a deal to pass up!
The instructions state to make sure the polarity is correct before plugging in. A volt meter can determine that beforehand.
True.. BRP has the plugs wired backwards.. they did this on some Spyder's.. even did them both ways on the same Spyder in some cases.
At least the kept using Black as the negative!
Spyder #1 - 2008 GS SM5 Premier Edition #1977. RIP after 80,000 miles.
Spyder #2 - 2012 RT SM5. Traded in after 24,000 miles.
Spyder #3 - 2015 F3 SM6. Put 13,000 miles on and sold it.
Spyder #4 - 2017 F3 SM6. Too good of a deal to pass up!
I wonder if I could have done with the Xenon Depot LEDs I put in. It sure didn't seem like there was enough room to push the driver box all the way into the housing, but maybe I should have just been more pushy!
I did not install the TricLed or Xenon Depots,rather a different brand. All things considered I decided I did not want the black box inside the headlight housing resting on the reflector as it could wear away the plastic chrome of the reflector or it could hinder the operation of the high beam shutter.
I was curious why you did not unpin the connector and correct the wiring rather than taping the connector with black tape.
Just wasn't worth the trouble. It would probably hold fine even without the tape... Just did it as a precaution.
Those pins and be problematic change. I have straight tyco adapters as well.. Just didn't want to mess with it.
Spyder #1 - 2008 GS SM5 Premier Edition #1977. RIP after 80,000 miles.
Spyder #2 - 2012 RT SM5. Traded in after 24,000 miles.
Spyder #3 - 2015 F3 SM6. Put 13,000 miles on and sold it.
Spyder #4 - 2017 F3 SM6. Too good of a deal to pass up!
Well... First ride tonight in the dark and I'm sorry to say these are nowhere near as bright as the stock bulbs.
I've got a message in to Reggie to see if something is amiss. There are two sets of 'tubes' that come with these.. I wonder if there's a difference between them.
The light is also very blue, which I guess is supposed to be in the 6000k range... Which doesn't mean it's brighter than something in the 4300k range... Just bluer.
I could barely tell the difference from low beams to high. Not sure if it's just scattering the light incorrectly.
Hoping for a solution, otherwise there's no way I can ride with these. Bummed.
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Spyder #1 - 2008 GS SM5 Premier Edition #1977. RIP after 80,000 miles.
Spyder #2 - 2012 RT SM5. Traded in after 24,000 miles.
Spyder #3 - 2015 F3 SM6. Put 13,000 miles on and sold it.
Spyder #4 - 2017 F3 SM6. Too good of a deal to pass up!
Looking at some of the other kits people have used, they have no 'tubes' covering the LED. I wonder if this is the problem? I may pull the tubes off and try them again tonight.
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Spyder #1 - 2008 GS SM5 Premier Edition #1977. RIP after 80,000 miles.
Spyder #2 - 2012 RT SM5. Traded in after 24,000 miles.
Spyder #3 - 2015 F3 SM6. Put 13,000 miles on and sold it.
Spyder #4 - 2017 F3 SM6. Too good of a deal to pass up!
Just heard back from Reggie. Those 'tubes' are supposed to be removed. Will test tonight and hopefully that fixes it.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Spyder #1 - 2008 GS SM5 Premier Edition #1977. RIP after 80,000 miles.
Spyder #2 - 2012 RT SM5. Traded in after 24,000 miles.
Spyder #3 - 2015 F3 SM6. Put 13,000 miles on and sold it.
Spyder #4 - 2017 F3 SM6. Too good of a deal to pass up!
Darn, spent a few hours yesterday installing these and now I find out I should have removed the tube that came on the bulbs. Oh noooooo!!!!! Really don't want to take it all apart again. Wish Reggie would have stated this in the instructions.
Darn, spent a few hours yesterday installing these and now I find out I should have removed the tube that came on the bulbs. Oh noooooo!!!!! Really don't want to take it all apart again. Wish Reggie would have stated this in the instructions.
You don't want to leave those tubes on... The lighting was absolutely horrible with those installed. Sure hope it's better tonight after I re-do them.
Yeah.. Wish the instructions would have mentioned removing the tubes.
Spyder #1 - 2008 GS SM5 Premier Edition #1977. RIP after 80,000 miles.
Spyder #2 - 2012 RT SM5. Traded in after 24,000 miles.
Spyder #3 - 2015 F3 SM6. Put 13,000 miles on and sold it.
Spyder #4 - 2017 F3 SM6. Too good of a deal to pass up!
Well.. I took it all back apart and pulled the 'tubes' off. You can see the difference in the photo. The right light has the tube still on.
Reggie, please update your instructions telling people to remove these. I'd hate to have someone leave these on and ride at night.. they reduce the light output a ton... like 50%.
Took a ride last night and am generally pleased with them. The light pattern is different, but seems to light up further down the road. There is some 'dead space' in the first 10 feet in front of the Spyder.. near the middle.. about 3 feet wide.. but it may have been like that before and I just didn't pay as much attention.
I re-aligned the lights as well and made some minor adjustments. Sure is easier on the RT than it is on the old GS/RS models!
Spyder #1 - 2008 GS SM5 Premier Edition #1977. RIP after 80,000 miles.
Spyder #2 - 2012 RT SM5. Traded in after 24,000 miles.
Spyder #3 - 2015 F3 SM6. Put 13,000 miles on and sold it.
Spyder #4 - 2017 F3 SM6. Too good of a deal to pass up!
Well.. I took it all back apart and pulled the 'tubes' off. You can see the difference in the photo. The right light has the tube still on.
Reggie, please update your instructions telling people to remove these. I'd hate to have someone leave these on and ride at night.. they reduce the light output a ton... like 50%.
Took a ride last night and am generally pleased with them. The light pattern is different, but seems to light up further down the road. There is some 'dead space' in the first 10 feet in front of the Spyder.. near the middle.. about 3 feet wide.. but it may have been like that before and I just didn't pay as much attention.
I re-aligned the lights as well and made some minor adjustments. Sure is easier on the RT than it is on the old GS/RS models!
The beam pattern is different compared to stock halogens. What you describe is similar but a larger deadspot than on our RTs. To fill this in, the foglights are a must. The foglighs will not only fill this deadspot in, but also project more to the sides.
I also notice that the LEDs are more critical in regards to the color of the road surface.
The beam pattern is different compared to stock halogens. What you describe is similar but a larger deadspot than on our RTs. To fill this in, the foglights are a must. The foglighs will not only fill this deadspot in, but also project more to the sides.
I also notice that the LEDs are more critical in regards to the color of the road surface.
Yeah.. I figured now I'd have to get some LED fogs......
Spyder #1 - 2008 GS SM5 Premier Edition #1977. RIP after 80,000 miles.
Spyder #2 - 2012 RT SM5. Traded in after 24,000 miles.
Spyder #3 - 2015 F3 SM6. Put 13,000 miles on and sold it.
Spyder #4 - 2017 F3 SM6. Too good of a deal to pass up!
Yeah.. I figured now I'd have to get some LED fogs......
If you want the best lights in my opinion, and they are not cheap or inexpensive, find the no longer offered Can Am HID kit. Those are expensive, more difficult to install on 14 or newer, but are a level above LEDs in regards to reaching into the darkness. At $1200, not common or popular.
High power LED foglights will be the recipe to complete the front end lighting.
I am so curious to compare and see if my 3200 lumen LEDs are noticeably better than the lesser power LEDs that are being installed by so many people. I have also seen a custom install by a friend on his 15, where he installed strip style LEDs across his upper A Arms to serve as driving lights.