Changing your own oil....

[threefingers2]

When we get our 2014 RT Limited it will only have 550 miles on it. Do i need to start fresh or wait until the first oil change is required ? If i do my own Change do i need the computer set up to clear things out of the system if so where do i get the hook ups nessesary for a ipad? Thanks you guys for helping a newbie to the Spyder world. Craig & Lori

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

Hi Craig, the first change depends on how long you plan to keep it ( imho )......The first oil change is where you will find 95% of the metallic particles that are present in all(?) new engines.......so imho the sooner you get them out the better. Oil is fairly in-expensive ( Valvoline 10w/40 full Synthetic $ 36.00 for a six-pack on-line at Walmart ), as is the filter $ 13 (?) from BAJARON ( a vendor here )...........and if you do it yourself - just some time........No you don't need BUDS........Mike

[Chupaca]

With that low mileage you should be fine till your scheduled oil change. There is no need to hook up to the buds system for oil changes. If you want to have the diagnostics your dealer will be the place. Congrats on your new ryde...

[TEWKS]

Now or later will be your call but, if you're doing it yourself, here are a couple very detailed vids on how to GIT-R-DONE!

Part 1
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=ZPeb1YqV4Gw

Part 2
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=xL5AN-59Rb8

Congrats on the new Spyder!

Pat

[JayBros]

[sandeejs]

If i do my own Change do i need the computer set up to clear things out of the system

Nope, what you need is a lot of time, and the directions in the manual. Took me most of a day to do it. I used to do my own changes on my 2 wheeler, took 30 minutes max. It's all the Tupperware that has to be removed that takes so much time. I think it's a lot easier/quicker if you can get the (Spyder) off the ground.

Have fun!

~Sandee~

[jcthorne]

If its a 2014 and never had an oil change it is VERY OVERDUE already. Requires annual change regardless of mileage unless the engine is never started....

It should have had its initial change long ago. So yes, you need to change it now.

Its a good idea to have the dealer do the initial change and update the software etc. Document for warranty. After that its just basic service and you can do your own.

[ramblin5]

Not necessarily overdue. I bought a used 2014 RT in November from the original owner who bought it new in Feb. 2015. It is just now a year old with 2000 miles on it. I'll have 3000 on it after Daytona and the dealer said it was fine to wait until I get back to do the first service.

QUOTE=jcthorne;1090809]If its a 2014 and never had an oil change it is VERY OVERDUE already. Requires annual change regardless of mileage unless the engine is never started....

It should have had its initial change long ago. So yes, you need to change it now.

Its a good idea to have the dealer do the initial change and update the software etc. Document for warranty. After that its just basic service and you can do your own.[/QUOTE]

[jcthorne]

Not necessarily overdue. I bought a used 2014 RT in November from the original owner who bought it new in Feb. 2015. It is just now a year old with 2000 miles on it. I'll have 3000 on it after Daytona and the dealer said it was fine to wait until I get back to do the first service.

QUOTE=jcthorne;1090809]If its a 2014 and never had an oil change it is VERY OVERDUE already. Requires annual change regardless of mileage unless the engine is never started....

It should have had its initial change long ago. So yes, you need to change it now.

Its a good idea to have the dealer do the initial change and update the software etc. Document for warranty. After that its just basic service and you can do your own.

[/QUOTE]


My point was that the clock starts ticking when the engine is first started coming out of the crate, not on the day you pick it up. Most folks will not ride a Spyder far enough to use the mileage limits for oil changes. Plan on annual service for most. The OP is purchasing used, not new out of the crate. To be really sure, he would need the original in service date. I would change it now and start off right. I also like to get break in oil out of the engine sooner than BRP does.

[Brentc]

Here is what was explained to me on the initial breakin as an FYI. As mike said above, there are tiny pieces of metal that by design will be in the first oil change. However changing that oil before the recommended interval can actually have a negative effect on the longevity and performance of the motor. Those tiny pieces of metal actually perform the final polishing of the inner cylinder walls as they flow through the motor. Changing the oil early doesn't give the cylinders time to be fine polished which results in poor seals and thus bad performance from the motor.

[DrewNJ]

Its a $30k machine that is going on 2 years old with the original oil. Seriously, change the oil.
Some of you are so friggin' CHEAP when it comes to maintenance!

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

[DrewNJ]

Here is what was explained to me on the initial breakin as an FYI. As mike said above, there are tiny pieces of metal that by design will be in the first oil change. However changing that oil before the recommended interval can actually have a negative effect on the longevity and performance of the motor. Those tiny pieces of metal actually perform the final polishing of the inner cylinder walls as they flow through the motor. Changing the oil early doesn't give the cylinders time to be fine polished which results in poor seals and thus bad performance from the motor.

I would run away from any tech who ever tried to feed me a line of crap like this. You cannot change your oil to often. The only thing it does is make your wallet a bit lighter

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

My point was that the clock starts ticking when the engine is first started coming out of the crate, not on the day you pick it up. Most folks will not ride a Spyder far enough to use the mileage limits for oil changes. Plan on annual service for most. The OP is purchasing used, not new out of the crate. To be really sure, he would need the original in service date. I would change it now and start off right. I also like to get break in oil out of the engine sooner than BRP does.[/QUOTE]
.................................................. .............How do you know BRP is using " break-in oil ", and recommending you leave it in for 3000 miles...............I doubt it's different from what BRP normally uses....................jmho.........Mike

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

I would run away from any tech who ever tried to feed me a line of crap like this. You cannot change your oil to often. The only thing it does is make your wallet a bit lighter

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

...........................PLUS do you think BRP is using " BREAK-IN OIL " ? ? ?, ......Mike

[KX5062]

Also, if you're going to do you own oil changes get a set of Dimple magnetic oil drain plugs. The OEM ones are soft and difficult to work with.

[jcthorne]

Here is what was explained to me on the initial breakin as an FYI. As mike said above, there are tiny pieces of metal that by design will be in the first oil change. However changing that oil before the recommended interval can actually have a negative effect on the longevity and performance of the motor. Those tiny pieces of metal actually perform the final polishing of the inner cylinder walls as they flow through the motor. Changing the oil early doesn't give the cylinders time to be fine polished which results in poor seals and thus bad performance from the motor.

By 2500 miles that is long over and its just excess wear and low quality oil in the sump.

[jcthorne]

My point was that the clock starts ticking when the engine is first started coming out of the crate, not on the day you pick it up. Most folks will not ride a Spyder far enough to use the mileage limits for oil changes. Plan on annual service for most. The OP is purchasing used, not new out of the crate. To be really sure, he would need the original in service date. I would change it now and start off right. I also like to get break in oil out of the engine sooner than BRP does.

.................................................. .............How do you know BRP is using " break-in oil ", and recommending you leave it in for 3000 miles...............I doubt it's different from what BRP normally uses....................jmho.........Mike [/QUOTE]


Did not mean to imply that the original fill was any different than the low quality fluid sold in the bottles. Its 'break in oil' because it is the oil in the engine during its break in, not because its a different type of oil. Special break in oils are rarely used today. No manufacture that I know of still uses them.

[DrewNJ]

HOW you break in a motor is WAY more important than the brand of oil used during break in IMHO.

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[BLUEKNIGHT911]

Also, if you're going to do you own oil changes get a set of Dimple magnetic oil drain plugs. The OEM ones are soft and difficult to work with.

.....Both are stainless steel and both have powerful magnets .................HOWEVER - Gold Plug is about 40 % less expensive....Mike

[threefingers2]

Its a $30k machine that is going on 2 years old with the original oil. Seriously, change the oil.
Some of you are so friggin' CHEAP when it comes to maintenance!

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

​It has 560 miles on it if that makes a dif.?

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

​It has 560 miles on it if that makes a dif.?

....Craig, read my post #2. again......You don't have to change the filter.........But do change the OIL , it gets contaminated from just a little use. I change my oil when I bring it in and put it up for the winter........But I do not run it again until I take it and use it..................good luck........Mike

[DrewNJ]

​It has 560 miles on it if that makes a dif.?

For me its more the fact that it's 2 years and the original fill. I like to dump oil early on the factory fill to get rid of all the assembly debris. People would really be surprised at what can be left behind due to the manufacturing process.

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[threefingers2]

Change the oil at a minimum. The filter is not expensive at $15, the O rings are what gets expensive, but honestly unless you damage them they can be reused one time.

As was mentioned, it is no longer about what oil is used for break in, more importantly how the break in process was done.

Honestly, with a shared sump for the engine and gearbox, most of the debris will be from build up or the gear mesh breaking in. The modern engine itself needs little break in. The gearbox and clutch however take a while.

The one post where the tech said to hit Daytona and do the change when you get home, well it is your tech and your bike. If you want smoother shifting and less wear on the gearbox, change it now.

The BRP manual recommends not only a mileage interval but also a calendar interval. It is not as if the engine will fall apart if you miss the calendar interval, but the reason it is best to accomplish the task is to remove any acids that are created while the engine runs and not let them eat away the metals.

I know this will not be a popular statement, but I agree 100% with DrewNJ, I am amazed at how cheap some of you folks get with a 30k item. Almost compares to aircraft owners that complain about the cost to maintain their aircraft but praise the sports car shop with the higher hourly rate. Ironically, I have told a few aircraft owners that this is all fine and good, but they can not write a large enough check on the way down. The sports car pulls to the side of the road.

Have fun, be smart and be safe.

PK

Thanks for taking the time to help a newbie.

[ramblin5]

Change the oil at a minimum. The filter is not expensive at $15, the O rings are what gets expensive, but honestly unless you damage them they can be reused one time.

As was mentioned, it is no longer about what oil is used for break in, more importantly how the break in process was done.

Honestly, with a shared sump for the engine and gearbox, most of the debris will be from build up or the gear mesh breaking in. The modern engine itself needs little break in. The gearbox and clutch however take a while.

The one post where the tech said to hit Daytona and do the change when you get home, well it is your tech and your bike. If you want smoother shifting and less wear on the gearbox, change it now.

The BRP manual recommends not only a mileage interval but also a calendar interval. It is not as if the engine will fall apart if you miss the calendar interval, but the reason it is best to accomplish the task is to remove any acids that are created while the engine runs and not let them eat away the metals.

I know this will not be a popular statement, but I agree 100% with DrewNJ, I am amazed at how cheap some of you folks get with a 30k item. Almost compares to aircraft owners that complain about the cost to maintain their aircraft but praise the sports car shop with the higher hourly rate. Ironically, I have told a few aircraft owners that this is all fine and good, but they can not write a large enough check on the way down. The sports car pulls to the side of the road.

Have fun, be smart and be safe.

PK

Thanks for the thoughtful response and advice. You've convinced me. Going to take the wife's RT in this Wed. for the 3k service instead of waiting until we do Daytona. Will feel better about having it done and out of the way.

Thanks again.

[Cruzr Joe]

Save yourself a lot of headaches

Take it to the dealer and have him do the first oil change, that way he can also do any software upgrades and check for recalls or service bulletins etc. From then on you can do your own at your pace, but at least once a year.


Cruzr Joe