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Very Active Member
I'll try....
Though mine is an RS, I have both the JT air filter and a Yoshimura 77 exhaust and did not install a fuel controller. For the additional hose to the air box I got an oil breather filter which JT added or offers with his kit. I know the RT air filters are a bear to deal with and some finally just cut them out. If you are running a custom exhaust you will not mind the sound of the airflow to the throttle body but can cut it down with the extra foam band JT offers. You will have easy access to all the engine, cooler running and better prrformance....your choice
Gene and Ilana De Laney
Mt. Helix, California
2012 RS sm5
2012 RS sm5 , 998cc V-Twin 106hp DIY brake and park brake Classic Black
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Very Active Member
Should you decide to put the air box back in.... this video should help and make it MUCH easier to go back in and future removals.
Bob
2011 RT-S SM5 - Black
Bought June 2013 with 450 miles. 27K on 8-1-2017.
Farkles - DIY Trunk Break Light, HMT Break Light, DIY Mirror Turn Signal Lights, DIY Bluetooth Dongle, DIY iPod Setup, DIY Alarm System Install, Show Chrome front fender / rear saddle bag lights, 4th break light around the trunk, Vented Windshield, Baja Ron Sway Bar, DIY GPS setup, Smooth Spyder, BRP Chrome Mirrors, Adjustable deflectors, Triaxis handlebars, NVB Pegs, Bad Boy Airhorn... More to come
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Active Member
No need to remove the air boc
I just finished removing and replacing my spark plugs and wires on my 2012 RT-s. (Baja Ron's plugs and wires) There is no need to remove the air box to remove the right side plug. I lifted my spyder up on 16" blocks then removed the side panels both left and right. I then remove the support and screen that's rear of the radiator. Now you have access to the RT side plug and wire. When you 1st look up to find the plug it looks impossible but it's actually fairly easy, don't let it intimidate you. A very bright light pointing to the plug area is a must. I sat on the floor and reached up with my hand with a pair of needle nose pliers and wiggled and poked at the wire boot and it came free of the plug fairly easy. To remove the plug you need the right combination of tools because you are very limited in height. I used a plug socket 3/8 drive and adapter from 3/8 to 1/4 drive then a 1/4 " beaker bar to loosen the plug. A swivel joint is also helpful in this process.The plug is not torqued very tight so it was no problem braking it loose. Once loose the plug can easily be spun out by hand using the plug socket. I tied a length of wire to the old plug wire before I removed it then tied the new wire to it and pulled it back through.
Bob
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Very Active Member
Interesting...Whatever it takes I suppose. I did it the typical way. There is a metal mounting tab on the right side for panels and such, that is smack dab in the way. I simply bent that tab over to get the box out and back in....then simply bent the tab back where it belonged. Made the job MUCH simpler.
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