Well. it's project time, and one of the first on my list is to install an aux fuse block.
Where is the best place to mount it? I'd like it to be somewhere that won't be in the way for servicing, especially when the frunk needs to be removed. but not tooo difficult to get to in case a fuse needs replaced.
I've got a bunch of stuff that needs extra power (GPS, horn, heated gear, etc...)
Baloo is my name. Spyders are my game. Well, it's a doo-bah-dee-doo, yes, it's a doo-bah-dee-doo, I mean a doo-bee, doo-bee, doo-bee, doo-bee, doo-bee-dee-doo. And, well, now. Ha ha! What have we here?
Well. it's project time, and one of the first on my list is to install an aux fuse block.
Where is the best place to mount it? I'd like it to be somewhere that won't be in the way for servicing, especially when the frunk needs to be removed. but not tooo difficult to get to in case a fuse needs replaced.
I've got a bunch of stuff that needs extra power (GPS, horn, heated gear, etc...)
Any suggestions? This is for a 2015 RT-S.
Thanks! -Fratz
I have a different model F3's, I have lots of experience with various model motorcycle's--but locating the aux power leads as been a major new inconvenient experience for me. they double tape wrap most of them---I'm guessing Spyder's are jet ski's or snow mobiles with wheels. extra tape shielding to protect from the weather elements.--None visible without removing layers of electrical tape plus they are tie-rapped to upper housing--There are several manuals available on-line but none are easy to read. BRP does an excellent jobs with photos's showing the easiest access locations--not so much with the difficult locations. Good luck. Also I have never heard of so many complaints & time delays from any other bike mnfg. If it was a Honda, Yamaha, Suzuki, etc--you'd forget the dealers location from lack of need for assistance...
2015 F3's , two 12 volt power outlets Orange & Black
I have used the same location for a fuseblock on my Spyder RT SE6 2015 model but used a PDM60 fuseblock
Thanks for the suggestion and link!
I had looked at this location as well, but am concerned that you would have to remove it in order to take the frunk off. Have you had any issues with this?
I have used the same location for a fuseblock on my Spyder RT SE6 2015 model but used a PDM60 fuseblock
Where did you find space in there with the battery jumper posts in there?
2014 Copper RTS
Tri-Axis bars, CB, BajaRon sway bar & shock adjusters, SpyderPop's Bumpskid, NBV peg brackets, LED headlights and modulator, Wolo trumpet air horns, trailer hitch, custom trailer harness, high mount turn signals, Custom Dynamics brake light, LED turn signal lights on mirrors, LED strip light for a dash light, garage door opener, LED lights in frunk, trunk, and saddlebags, RAM mounts and cradles for tablet (for GPS) and phone (for music), and Smooth Spyder belt tensioner.
Where did you find space in there with the battery jumper posts in there?
If you remove the service cover located under the funk lid, under the LHS (as sitting on the Spyder) you will see a bar with some studs underneath the Headlamp – I made a shelf for my PDM60 Fuse box to sit on
It was bolted on to the shelf and the shelf was then bolted using the studs to hold
it in place
The PDM60 is very smal and there is plently of room for it
I accessed the + and - terminals from the battery from the back so the leads can
just be disconnected should the funk need to be removed
The leads are zip tied to the frame above the a frame suspension A Arms and have been protected in hard plastic tubing to give protection
The switched live was taken from a connection located near that bar with the
studs as there appeard to be a blank off connector behind the funk and I checked
one of the wires and it was only live with the key on
The location of the PDM60 Fuse box allows easy accces to the console for the extra
equipment you need to get power to
You just have to programme the PDM60 before you fit it – The PDM60 comes with
full instructions
Just allow some extra length of leads should you need to remove the PDM60
The advantage is you don't need to remove it to replace fuses or a relay
The location means you can see the LED's showing the state of the circuits when
the PDM60 is on
I fitted mine in June 2015 and have not needed to touch it
I have added some waterproof materinal over the top of it below the service cover
just to keep any water away from it but it is sealed
Here is a couple of Photos to show the PDM60 in Place
Hello brothers and sisters. I see photos of installation but not clear of the location of wiring to perform on my Spyder RS. Would I have to remove the hood to place the negative cable as I wish to add a negative busbar for negative leads.
Hello brothers and sisters. I see photos of installation but not clear of the location of wiring to perform on my Spyder RS. Would I have to remove the hood to place the negative cable as I wish to add a negative busbar for negative leads.
You'll be better off to ask this question in the RS subforum. This thread is in the RT Touring subforum so the members who need to see this question may not. I'm sure there is a big difference between the RS and RT as to installing the fuse block.
2014 Copper RTS
Tri-Axis bars, CB, BajaRon sway bar & shock adjusters, SpyderPop's Bumpskid, NBV peg brackets, LED headlights and modulator, Wolo trumpet air horns, trailer hitch, custom trailer harness, high mount turn signals, Custom Dynamics brake light, LED turn signal lights on mirrors, LED strip light for a dash light, garage door opener, LED lights in frunk, trunk, and saddlebags, RAM mounts and cradles for tablet (for GPS) and phone (for music), and Smooth Spyder belt tensioner.
You'll be better off to ask this question in the RS subforum. This thread is in the RT Touring subforum so the members who need to see this question may not. I'm sure there is a big difference between the RS and RT as to installing the fuse block.
Eddie: Are the 2 circled bolts where you attached a shelf? Did you just take a piece of sheet metal, bend it, drill out some holes then attach onto the bolts coming through with some nuts? Also I notice in some of your pics you had wires routing down where the arrow is. Doesn't that area come off with the frunk? Seems you would have to disconnect those to remove frunk?
Fratz: What did you ever wind up doing?
Has anyone ever identified what if anything is made to go on the brackets with the ?
NEW/CURRENT (Wife's Bike, I ride Goldwing/Africa Twin)
2023 RT Limited Petrol Blue Metallic
Working on the upgrades... so far... Show Chrome Isolator Fuse Block, Tackform Adventure Wireless charger phone mount
OLD/TRADED
2015 RT Limited Intense Red Pearl
Farkles: Ultimate Tallboy seat, FOBO, JT Dash Mount, Lamonster Spyder Cuff, Kradellock, TricLED lighting - fenders, A-Arms, saddlebags, run/brake, Custom Dynamics high brake light, brake modulator, Drink2Go passenger, MUTH turn signal mirrors, Bajaron sway bar, Kuryakyn ISO grips, SpyderTV front grilles & rear trunk organizer, homemade trunk light
Pending: Elka shocks, Yokohama S Drive rear tire, EVO 595 front tires, Centramatic balancers, Neutrino black box
Eddie: Are the 2 circled bolts where you attached a shelf? Did you just take a piece of sheet metal, bend it, drill out some holes then attach onto the bolts coming through with some nuts? Also I notice in some of your pics you had wires routing down where the arrow is. Doesn't that area come off with the frunk? Seems you would have to disconnect those to remove frunk?
Fratz: What did you ever wind up doing?
Has anyone ever identified what if anything is made to go on the brackets with the ?
Is that a picture of your 2015 RT below the left headlight?
2014 Copper RTS
Tri-Axis bars, CB, BajaRon sway bar & shock adjusters, SpyderPop's Bumpskid, NBV peg brackets, LED headlights and modulator, Wolo trumpet air horns, trailer hitch, custom trailer harness, high mount turn signals, Custom Dynamics brake light, LED turn signal lights on mirrors, LED strip light for a dash light, garage door opener, LED lights in frunk, trunk, and saddlebags, RAM mounts and cradles for tablet (for GPS) and phone (for music), and Smooth Spyder belt tensioner.
Is that a picture of your 2015 RT below the left headlight?
Yes, right under the black trim panel.
NEW/CURRENT (Wife's Bike, I ride Goldwing/Africa Twin)
2023 RT Limited Petrol Blue Metallic
Working on the upgrades... so far... Show Chrome Isolator Fuse Block, Tackform Adventure Wireless charger phone mount
OLD/TRADED
2015 RT Limited Intense Red Pearl
Farkles: Ultimate Tallboy seat, FOBO, JT Dash Mount, Lamonster Spyder Cuff, Kradellock, TricLED lighting - fenders, A-Arms, saddlebags, run/brake, Custom Dynamics high brake light, brake modulator, Drink2Go passenger, MUTH turn signal mirrors, Bajaron sway bar, Kuryakyn ISO grips, SpyderTV front grilles & rear trunk organizer, homemade trunk light
Pending: Elka shocks, Yokohama S Drive rear tire, EVO 595 front tires, Centramatic balancers, Neutrino black box
Eddie: Are the 2 circled bolts where you attached a shelf? Did you just take a piece of sheet metal, bend it, drill out some holes then attach onto the bolts coming through with some nuts? Also I notice in some of your pics you had wires routing down where the arrow is. Doesn't that area come off with the frunk? Seems you would have to disconnect those to remove frunk?
Fratz: What did you ever wind up doing?
Has anyone ever identified what if anything is made to go on the brackets with the ?
Sorry for the delay I am away
I ran a + & - lead up from the battery terminals using ring connectors
so you just need to take the leads off if removing the frunk
The only other connector is to tap into a power which is live when ignition is on
I did use the bracket, bent a plate for the PDM60 to sit on and used 2 bolts & nuts to secure it to that bracket
Fatz, check out: tricledusa.com to see their fuse box. Sure looks like it will do what you want.
(This is an old thread Jake...)
I already had the fuse block picked out, I'm using a pdm60. It's programable, and does exactly what I need.
This thread was just about where to install it, which I did in the left service compartment in the frunk about a year and a half ago :-)
Is that a picture of your 2015 RT below the left headlight?
Originally Posted by SpyderSteveFL
Yes, right under the black trim panel.
I take it you are looking to install a fuse box in that area, or have you already? I just put my fuse box in there loose. That way I can pull it out to plug and unplug both wires and fuses as I need. Makes it a lot easier than trying to manipulate things inside a cramped location. At least I think so.
2014 Copper RTS
Tri-Axis bars, CB, BajaRon sway bar & shock adjusters, SpyderPop's Bumpskid, NBV peg brackets, LED headlights and modulator, Wolo trumpet air horns, trailer hitch, custom trailer harness, high mount turn signals, Custom Dynamics brake light, LED turn signal lights on mirrors, LED strip light for a dash light, garage door opener, LED lights in frunk, trunk, and saddlebags, RAM mounts and cradles for tablet (for GPS) and phone (for music), and Smooth Spyder belt tensioner.
Yes, I just installed a Neutrino Black Box in there. I did make a shelf for it and zip tied it so it wouldn't move around much. I'll probably document it and the many other things I did at some point in the diy/mods section but here's a quick pic. 20170506_220230.jpg
Last edited by SpyderSteveFL; 05-07-2017 at 09:58 AM.
NEW/CURRENT (Wife's Bike, I ride Goldwing/Africa Twin)
2023 RT Limited Petrol Blue Metallic
Working on the upgrades... so far... Show Chrome Isolator Fuse Block, Tackform Adventure Wireless charger phone mount
OLD/TRADED
2015 RT Limited Intense Red Pearl
Farkles: Ultimate Tallboy seat, FOBO, JT Dash Mount, Lamonster Spyder Cuff, Kradellock, TricLED lighting - fenders, A-Arms, saddlebags, run/brake, Custom Dynamics high brake light, brake modulator, Drink2Go passenger, MUTH turn signal mirrors, Bajaron sway bar, Kuryakyn ISO grips, SpyderTV front grilles & rear trunk organizer, homemade trunk light
Pending: Elka shocks, Yokohama S Drive rear tire, EVO 595 front tires, Centramatic balancers, Neutrino black box
Since battery is in the front, I put mine on the left hand side fuse cover in the frunk. You can route the power lead to the auxiliary block (I installed a PDM60) through the rubber grommet on the same side that is there for an auxiliary power outlet. Any auxiliary power needs can come through that same rubber grommet. By putting the Fuze block on the outside of the plastic cover it is in a safe and dry environment.
Originally Posted by fratzba
Well. it's project time, and one of the first on my list is to install an aux fuse block.
Where is the best place to mount it? I'd like it to be somewhere that won't be in the way for servicing, especially when the frunk needs to be removed. but not tooo difficult to get to in case a fuse needs replaced.
I've got a bunch of stuff that needs extra power (GPS, horn, heated gear, etc...)