BRAKE FAILURES

[grumpybob]

Brake Failure Low Fluid. Been messing with this for a while now. Had it in to the shop, where they did 2 updates. Added more brake fluid twice, it is full. Went to Dunkin Doughnuts yesterday morning. At home when I started her up She was ok. Went to leave DD's to go home - Brake Failure. For a month I have been releasing the parking brake before I start her up, no problems. At DD's I started her up before releasing the parking brake, the minute I hit the starter I got the BRAKE FAILURE, when I GET IT THE RED BRAKE ICON comes on, when I release the parking brake the red light stays on. Has anybody had this happen?

2014 RTL 1600 miles. Got it May 2015.

[Cruzr Joe]

Bob:

I am no help on this ........................... But this may have something to do with Dunkin Donuts,


Cruzr Joe

[jtoro1]

You'll notice it happens when you release the brake and you have your foot on the brake and it goes further down it will trip the switch have them bleed the brakes you might get lucky I had that problem for quite a while let us know how they fixed it because it's a very common problem

[Bob Denman]

How does the pedal feel? If it's spongy; it's time to have the brakes bled...

Good Luck; please let us know how this all works out for you!

[Tazzel]

are you losing brake fluid?

I had this issue on my 2012 RS SE5 turned out I had a leaking brake fluid reservoir. It was replaced under warranty.

[hecoon]

You'll notice it happens when you release the brake and you have your foot on the brake and it goes further down it will trip the switch have them bleed the brakes you might get lucky I had that problem for quite a while let us know how they fixed it because it's a very common problem

a brake bleed is $330. I have had the same code for over 16000 miles and it still stops fine. 2009 phantom 58k miles

[skeetshooter]

Check your brake pads mine had a pea gravel stuck behind 1 pad wore it down. Had the same problem you are having. Put new pads on all was ok.

[Chupaca]

fluid is not the only reason the brake failure pops up. Could be elsewhere from fluids to bulbs...

[Ex-Rocket]

He's only got 1600 miles on the bike. I wouldn't think his brake pads are worn out yet.

[JayBros]

Bob:

I am no help on this ........................... But this may have something to do with Dunkin Donuts,


Cruzr Joe

Maybe a gremlin dunked a donut in the brake fluid!

[PistonBlown]

I had an issue were I was getting a false reading on one of the sensors. These are the steps I found to clear it (can't remember who originally posted this):

• Turn on the and key wait until system is fully booted up.
• Press the brake peddle down. Now this is the important part. You need to hear 2 clicks. One is the brake light switch and the 2nd click is the low pressure switch. Yes you need to press hard enough to get the second click.*
• While holding the brake peddle turn the key off and WAIT until the system completely shut down.
• Wait about 5 minutes then turn the key back on. Error should be cleared.

* I'm too deaf to hear clicks so for this part I just stood beside the spider and stood on the brake pedal to make sure it was pressed down hard:-)

This cleared the code for me.

My problem started when I got road tar sprayed on my rear disc which transferred to the brake pads and contaminated them. I replaced the rear brake pads, topped the fluid etc but still got the error intermittently until I followed the steps above.

There is another almost identical process that's also supposed to work if the first one doesn't:

• Turn on the key and wait until system is fully booted up.
• Press the brake peddle down. Now this is the important part. You need to hear 2 clicks. One is the brake light switch and the 2nd click is the low pressure switch. Yes you need to press hard enough to get the second click.
• While holding the brake peddle turn the key off but this time before it fully shuts down, turn the key back on. The fault should be cleared.

[SpyderAnn01]

My trusty Spyder is in the shop for an antifreeze leak, clutch fluid leak and brake failure. My brake fluid is at the proper level but the fluid is definitely due for changing. I rarely use my parking brake as I have an SM and I leave it in gear so I know that isn't the issue, my pads are new too. The code I am getting is the one for low fluid or bad sensors and the bad sensor could be from gunky fluid. 64,000 miles and this is really the first time I have had any issues with it.

Also, I can clear the brake failure code by quickly turning the key on and off 3 times.

[PMK]

I recently did a brake fluid flush and bleed on our 2014 RTs. The fluid was not even 2 years old and around 5500 miles on it. The crap that came out was super nasty. We did not have any failure codes just done because the Can Am recommended calendar time is each two years.

Yes our machine stopped and started, the parking brake worked fine. I got some flak from others about not changing the fluid since it will be fine.

Suffice to say, the brake pedal now has a proper feel to it. When you stop, or slow down the feel of the pedal gives a very direct control, not the as delivered Can Am feel.

At $330 to bleed the brakes that must include lunch for 4 while you wait. Super easy to do if you have ever bleed brakes. Took no more than 30 minutes for two people. Fluid was less than $15.

Check out this recent topic
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/s...hange-and-BUDS


For a look, left jar is new fluid, middle jar is after flush and bleed, right jar is the crap that was in our 2014 RTs, never replaced from new and 2 years old.

[grumpybob]

Thanks for all the replies. I will try this out today if I get the time. I actually got her ready & put her in storage, so she will have to wait until spring to go back to the dealer for any work.

Merry Xmas to all.

I had an issue were I was getting a false reading on one of the sensors. These are the steps I found to clear it (can't remember who originally posted this):

• Turn on the and key wait until system is fully booted up.
• Press the brake peddle down. Now this is the important part. You need to hear 2 clicks. One is the brake light switch and the 2nd click is the low pressure switch. Yes you need to press hard enough to get the second click.*
• While holding the brake peddle turn the key off and WAIT until the system completely shut down.
• Wait about 5 minutes then turn the key back on. Error should be cleared.

* I'm too deaf to hear clicks so for this part I just stood beside the spider and stood on the brake pedal to make sure it was pressed down hard:-)

This cleared the code for me.

My problem started when I got road tar sprayed on my rear disc which transferred to the brake pads and contaminated them. I replaced the rear brake pads, topped the fluid etc but still got the error intermittently until I followed the steps above.

There is another almost identical process that's also supposed to work if the first one doesn't:

• Turn on the key and wait until system is fully booted up.
• Press the brake peddle down. Now this is the important part. You need to hear 2 clicks. One is the brake light switch and the 2nd click is the low pressure switch. Yes you need to press hard enough to get the second click.
• While holding the brake peddle turn the key off but this time before it fully shuts down, turn the key back on. The fault should be cleared.

[gypsy_100]

My trusty Spyder is in the shop for an antifreeze leak, clutch fluid leak and brake failure. My brake fluid is at the proper level but the fluid is definitely due for changing. I rarely use my parking brake as I have an SM and I leave it in gear so I know that isn't the issue, my pads are new too. The code I am getting is the one for low fluid or bad sensors and the bad sensor could be from gunky fluid. 64,000 miles and this is really the first time I have had any issues with it.

Also, I can clear the brake failure code by quickly turning the key on and off 3 times.

Any results on your clutch and brake issues? As an SM-6 owner, I'm interested in your clutch leak. I had the pivot pins in the lever freeze up in just a few thousand miles. The whole M/C and lever assembly was replaced under warranty as it's not serviceable. Where is your leak -- at the M/C or the slave cylinder? I was hoping BRP got it right this time with a more conventional slave cylinder that bolts to the outside of the clutch unit. The odd unit they designed for the 998's failed twice on me and I think was a not-so-good design from the start. Interested in what you find out. Thanks.

[SpyderAnn01]

Any results on your clutch and brake issues? As an SM-6 owner, I'm interested in your clutch leak. I had the pivot pins in the lever freeze up in just a few thousand miles. The whole M/C and lever assembly was replaced under warranty as it's not serviceable. Where is your leak -- at the M/C or the slave cylinder? I was hoping BRP got it right this time with a more conventional slave cylinder that bolts to the outside of the clutch unit. The odd unit they designed for the 998's failed twice on me and I think was a not-so-good design from the start. Interested in what you find out. Thanks.

It was in the master cylinder but I also had a problem with the clutch actuator rod. There is a bearing on the end of it and it had worn out. They replaced it along with a new master cylinder cap and gasket and all is good. Hopefully for another 64,000 miles.

[gypsy_100]

It was in the master cylinder but I also had a problem with the clutch actuator rod. There is a bearing on the end of it and it had worn out. They replaced it along with a new master cylinder cap and gasket and all is good. Hopefully for another 64,000 miles.

Now you've got me curious. Do you mean the clutch release rod that is down in the main clutch itself? No bearing on the end of that. There is a rod from the clutch lever pivot that pushes the piston in the master cylinder. I think (a guess on my part) that there is a self lubricating bearing where that pivot is. I think that is what froze up on mine, I assume because of a faulty bearing that froze in just a few K miles. If your bearing wore and was loose, that would certainly affect precise clutch operation. But the manuals don't show any of that as repairable -- just replace the whole M/C. Was your M/C cylinder cap where the leak was occurring? Mine is not perfectly flat -- slightly warped but no leakage. Or was your cylinder leaking thru the internal seals?