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Similar issue after ignition replacement
I had a similar issue with the frunk being "tight" after my ignition was replaced. I took back to dealer and they lubricated the latch, but still is tighter than I would prefer. Ditto on Mikes suggestion to have someone put gentle pressure on lid while turning the key, and be very careful as noted about snapping the key..
2022 RT Limited Dark Hyper Silver
2014 RT-S Pearl White
2010 BRP 622 Trailer Pearl White
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Thank you, I will give it a try and see
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Little checking..!!
having worked on the ignition switch area the may have routed the cable differently. Frunk mechanism should not have been affected. Lube is always good and checking seal and amout in frunk helps avoid pressure on the latch.
2012 RS sm5 , 998cc V-Twin 106hp DIY brake and park brake Classic Black
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Good Suggestion
That sounds worth a try. I have to use gentle pressure on my right saddlebag to get it to release.
-Bill
2019 Black F3-T
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FRUNK ISSUES
Originally Posted by GeorgiaBill
That sounds worth a try. I have to use gentle pressure on my right saddlebag to get it to release.
-Bill
Bill ....What " sounds worth a try " ???... the separate cord thing ? ? .....if so, it's fairly easy. If interested PM me and I'll explain it......................Mike
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Well it didn't work so I guess it's back to the dealership for fixin!!
I will try and see if I can get some lube close enough to get it to work before I go......
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Hi Mike,
Re: If interested PM me and I'll explain it......................
Care to explain here for all of us to know?
Jerry Baumchen
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I couldn't open the frunk on my 2008 GS and got it open by pushing down on the lid and turning the key. I checked the seal around the trunk liner and found an area that had come apart. I glued it down and it worked fine for a couple of days. I than couldn't get it open again and pushing down again didn't work. I ordered a new cable at the dealership and with my helmet and gear in the frunk, I turned the handlebars to the left and looking up from underneath where the cable attaches to the switch, I gave it a tug up. The frunk opened and ever since I haven't had a problem. I still have the new cable and will replace it if I have another problem, but so far its been fine..
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SEPARATE FRUNK RELEASE METHOD ....NOT USING KEY
Originally Posted by JerryB
Hi Mike,
Re: If interested PM me and I'll explain it......................
Care to explain here for all of us to know?
Jerry Baumchen
For you Jerry I'll try.....I won't do PICs , because you can't do it the way I did......because all of you still have your AIR INTAKE under the left fender.....I don't.........However it's still easy to do.....I used a thin flexible wire cable that was plastic coated ( It was from some computer wiring that I found -- however you can buy the same stuff at Home Depot or Lowe's 18 inches will do )......you need about 1/2 inch sq. piece of Velcro .....OK this is for RT's only.....open the frunk and on the right side above the frunk is a blk plastic cover ....remove it...shine a light down to the right ....you will see the left shock and the Air Intake .......you see the latch in the middle .....there is a longer lever behind the short one that is attached to with the cable ( to the KEY ).....the idea is to attach the new piece of cable to that lever and pass it over and down to the right and out by the shock.....I drilled a small hole in the "latch" lever and put the cable in and knotted it...then attached a small piece of wood to the other end ( something to hold on to ) and put 1/2 the Velcro onto it........the other 1/2 stick on the Air Intake ( after cleaning it ). In order to drill the hole in the LEVER you either have to have a very long bit or you need to re-move the frunk to get access to drill the hole.....I know PICs are great but if you follow along with the above while looking at your Spyder it becomes very obvious what needs to be done...........As I stated earlier I did this because I feel asking the KEY to open the frunk is asking TO MUCH ( the seat also )....if it breaks after the warranty expires ....it will cost $ 400.00 + of YOUR MONEY.......to get a new one................This is an easy winter project.....IMHO I would also wire the SEAT LATCH open for the same reason, actually it's even more important because it causes a lot more stress on the KEY........good luck......Mike
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Originally Posted by spy_der_man
Hello,
OK techies I have a question?
I just had my DESS Module and ignition replaced yesterday. Made a couple of stops on the way home. The frunk opened normal every time. On my last stop it would not open and still will not open.
Is there a tip/trick to getting the frunk open?
Sent a pm. Deanna
Current Spyder - 2023 F3 LTD Special Mineral Blue
Red LED NANO Saddlebag Marker Lights with Full Illumination
Sequential Fender LED'S (Amber/Red) with Safety Reflector
Dual Power Plate (12 V & USB ports)
Gremlin Bell
Rear Trunk Organizer (4 holders, 2 Elastic Holders)
Lamonster "Top Cuff" with adjustable drink Holder
SpyderPops Missing Guard Belt
Console Accent Trim (Carbon Fiber Domed Black)
Ultimate F3 Floorboards
Front Fairing Service Access Door Covers (Carbon Fiber Doomed Black)
Sway Bar with Links
Rolo Laser Alignment
Half Cover
A-Arm Daytime Dual Color LED Running Lights with Blinker Module
Hi-Viz DRL and Sequential Mirrors lights
Marinco 12Volt Power Receptacle with polarized leads & slide lock
Show chrome Trunk Shock
Former Spyder - 2014 RTS SE6 Cognac SOLD
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As to the seat I don't really feel any more pressure on the seat latch then I do in turning on the ignition,but I have tested my seat and it is latched. I am going to put some kind of spring in there to pop the seat up a little so I don't have to pull on the seat while turning the key.
Thanks Mike for your suggestions.
Happy TRAils/NSD
Paul
2012 RT L
AMA 25 years Life Member
TRA
PGR
Rhino Riders Plate #83
Venturers #78
TOI
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BROKEN CABLE !!!!
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CABLE BROKE
Originally Posted by spy_der_man
......SEE ABOVE IN RED.......MIKE
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Originally Posted by BLUEKNIGHT911
......SEE ABOVE IN RED.......MIKE
Oh sorry Mike i didn't see your post. The only thing broken was the wire cable itself.
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PUSH YOUR KEY IN BEFORE TURNING IGN OR RELEASING FRUNK/SEAT
Originally Posted by Brentc
I had a similar issue with the frunk being "tight" after my ignition was replaced. I took back to dealer and they lubricated the latch, but still is tighter than I would prefer. Ditto on Mikes suggestion to have someone put gentle pressure on lid while turning the key, and be very careful as noted about snapping the key..
We have 2 2009 Spyder's 990RS SM5
From day 2
we always insert the Key 7/8ths of the way in
then GENTLY-TAP the Key the rest of the way In
then turn Key for Ign. - frunk & seat releases
key should turn smoothly
this has been a Issue with Can-Ams since 2008
there Somewhere in the Annals of Old Post's - are previous posts
.................................................. ....... tom n carol
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Got it open. Too much pressure on the latch. Thanks all for the help.
Ride in comfort,
John
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