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Thread: Frunk

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    Default Frunk

    Hello,

    OK techies I have a question?
    I just had my DESS Module and ignition replaced yesterday. Made a couple of stops on the way home. The frunk opened normal every time. On my last stop it would not open and still will not open.
    Is there a tip/trick to getting the frunk open?

  2. #2
    Very Active Member BLUEKNIGHT911's Avatar
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    Default FRUNK

    Sometimes if you or someone can press down on the lid at the latch area while you push in the key and turn it, it should open......but it may need lube or adjustment.............I completely disconnected mine and use separate pull cord to open the latch....because if the KEY breaks in the lock ....you are looking at $ 400.00 + in repairs.....Mike ./. HOPEFULLY THEY REMEMBERED TO RE-CONNECT THE CABLE AFTER THEY PUT THE FRUNK BACK ON !!!!!!...
    Last edited by BLUEKNIGHT911; 11-14-2015 at 08:54 PM.

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    Very Active Member Brentc's Avatar
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    Default Similar issue after ignition replacement

    I had a similar issue with the frunk being "tight" after my ignition was replaced. I took back to dealer and they lubricated the latch, but still is tighter than I would prefer. Ditto on Mikes suggestion to have someone put gentle pressure on lid while turning the key, and be very careful as noted about snapping the key..
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    Default

    Thank you, I will give it a try and see

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    Default Little checking..!!

    having worked on the ignition switch area the may have routed the cable differently. Frunk mechanism should not have been affected. Lube is always good and checking seal and amout in frunk helps avoid pressure on the latch.
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    Default Of course you did

    Quote Originally Posted by BLUEKNIGHT911 View Post
    Sometimes if you or someone can press down on the lid at the latch area while you push in the key and turn it, it should open......but it may need lube or adjustment.............I completely disconnected mine and use separate pull cord to open the latch....because if the KEY breaks in the lock ....you are looking at $ 400.00 or in repairs.....Mike ./. HOPEFULLY THEY REMEBERED TO RE-CONNECT THE CABLE AFTER THEY PUT THE FRUNK BACK ON !!!!!!...
    Mike- Guy- ver . Don't hit the ejector seat button accidentally.

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    Very Active Member BLUEKNIGHT911's Avatar
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    Default rt's are different

    Quote Originally Posted by Chupaca View Post
    having worked on the ignition switch area the may have routed the cable differently. Frunk mechanism should not have been affected. Lube is always good and checking seal and amout in frunk helps avoid pressure on the latch.
    Chewey, because He said the DESS module was changed / worked on ....I know the entire frunk was taken off to do this and the latch cable has to be dis-connected completely also.........Been there done that .....Mike

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    Default Good Suggestion

    Quote Originally Posted by BLUEKNIGHT911 View Post
    Sometimes if you or someone can press down on the lid at the latch area while you push in the key and turn it, it should open......but it may need lube or adjustment.............I completely disconnected mine and use separate pull cord to open the latch....because if the KEY breaks in the lock ....you are looking at $ 400.00 + in repairs.....Mike ./. HOPEFULLY THEY REMEMBERED TO RE-CONNECT THE CABLE AFTER THEY PUT THE FRUNK BACK ON !!!!!!...
    That sounds worth a try. I have to use gentle pressure on my right saddlebag to get it to release.
    -Bill
    2019 Black F3-T

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    Very Active Member BLUEKNIGHT911's Avatar
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    Default FRUNK ISSUES

    Quote Originally Posted by GeorgiaBill View Post
    That sounds worth a try. I have to use gentle pressure on my right saddlebag to get it to release.
    -Bill
    Bill ....What " sounds worth a try " ???... the separate cord thing ? ? .....if so, it's fairly easy. If interested PM me and I'll explain it......................Mike

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    Well it didn't work so I guess it's back to the dealership for fixin!!
    I will try and see if I can get some lube close enough to get it to work before I go......

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    Hi Mike,

    Re: If interested PM me and I'll explain it......................

    Care to explain here for all of us to know?

    Jerry Baumchen
    'I'll never forget what's her name.'

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    Default

    I couldn't open the frunk on my 2008 GS and got it open by pushing down on the lid and turning the key. I checked the seal around the trunk liner and found an area that had come apart. I glued it down and it worked fine for a couple of days. I than couldn't get it open again and pushing down again didn't work. I ordered a new cable at the dealership and with my helmet and gear in the frunk, I turned the handlebars to the left and looking up from underneath where the cable attaches to the switch, I gave it a tug up. The frunk opened and ever since I haven't had a problem. I still have the new cable and will replace it if I have another problem, but so far its been fine..
    Happy Spyder Owner


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    Very Active Member BLUEKNIGHT911's Avatar
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    Default SEPARATE FRUNK RELEASE METHOD ....NOT USING KEY

    Quote Originally Posted by JerryB View Post
    Hi Mike,

    Re: If interested PM me and I'll explain it......................

    Care to explain here for all of us to know?

    Jerry Baumchen
    For you Jerry I'll try.....I won't do PICs , because you can't do it the way I did......because all of you still have your AIR INTAKE under the left fender.....I don't.........However it's still easy to do.....I used a thin flexible wire cable that was plastic coated ( It was from some computer wiring that I found -- however you can buy the same stuff at Home Depot or Lowe's 18 inches will do )......you need about 1/2 inch sq. piece of Velcro .....OK this is for RT's only.....open the frunk and on the right side above the frunk is a blk plastic cover ....remove it...shine a light down to the right ....you will see the left shock and the Air Intake .......you see the latch in the middle .....there is a longer lever behind the short one that is attached to with the cable ( to the KEY ).....the idea is to attach the new piece of cable to that lever and pass it over and down to the right and out by the shock.....I drilled a small hole in the "latch" lever and put the cable in and knotted it...then attached a small piece of wood to the other end ( something to hold on to ) and put 1/2 the Velcro onto it........the other 1/2 stick on the Air Intake ( after cleaning it ). In order to drill the hole in the LEVER you either have to have a very long bit or you need to re-move the frunk to get access to drill the hole.....I know PICs are great but if you follow along with the above while looking at your Spyder it becomes very obvious what needs to be done...........As I stated earlier I did this because I feel asking the KEY to open the frunk is asking TO MUCH ( the seat also )....if it breaks after the warranty expires ....it will cost $ 400.00 + of YOUR MONEY.......to get a new one................This is an easy winter project.....IMHO I would also wire the SEAT LATCH open for the same reason, actually it's even more important because it causes a lot more stress on the KEY........good luck......Mike

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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by spy_der_man View Post
    Hello,

    OK techies I have a question?
    I just had my DESS Module and ignition replaced yesterday. Made a couple of stops on the way home. The frunk opened normal every time. On my last stop it would not open and still will not open.
    Is there a tip/trick to getting the frunk open?
    Sent a pm. Deanna




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    Default HOW TO OPEN THE 08 TO 12 GS / RS / RSS FRUNK WITHOUT DAMAGING ANYTHING

    BRIAN this ones for you ........This worked for me .....you need a med / to large screwdriver and approx. 12 inch piece of 1/8 or 3/16 wood dowel or similar metal rod or very long thin screwdriver etc......and a good flashlite. From the right side look down at the middle just above the frunk edge..... below it you will see a cover....you want to put the screwdriver between the edge of the cover and the bottom of the headlite assembly.....and twist the screwdriver to pry open a slot......now from the right side , shine the flashlite into the gap....you should be able to see the spring and latch mechanism........push in your rod-dowel-screwdriver etc. against the latch arm and this will /should release the frunk.........At least it did mine ..........Before you close the frunk again .......put a strong cord on the latch and over to the other side so you can open it if it gets stuck again..........My earlier post on the release cord I did was for the RS series only.........good luck Brian.....Mike
    Last edited by BLUEKNIGHT911; 03-26-2018 at 10:45 AM.

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    Very Active Member pegasus1300's Avatar
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    Default

    As to the seat I don't really feel any more pressure on the seat latch then I do in turning on the ignition,but I have tested my seat and it is latched. I am going to put some kind of spring in there to pop the seat up a little so I don't have to pull on the seat while turning the key.
    Thanks Mike for your suggestions.

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    Problem solved. Broken cable. Thank you Thank you Thank you!!!!!!!


    Quote Originally Posted by BLUEKNIGHT911 View Post
    BRIAN this ones for you ........This worked for me .....you need a med / to large screwdriver and approx. 12 inch piece of 1/8 or 3/16 wood dowel or similar metal rod or thin screwdriver etc......and a good flashlite. From the right side look down at the middle just above the frunk edge..... below it you will see a cover....you want to put the screwdriver between the edge of the cover and the bottom of the headlite assembly.....and twist the screwdriver to pry open a slot......now from the right side , shine the flashlite into the gap....you should be able to see the spring and latch mechanism........push in your rod-dowel-screwdriver etc. against the latch arm and this will /should release the frunk.........At least it did mine ..........Before you close the frunk again .......put a strong cord on the latch and over to the other side so you can open it if it gets stuck again..........My earlier post on the release cord I did was for the RT series only.........good luck Brian.....Mike

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    Very Active Member BLUEKNIGHT911's Avatar
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    Default BROKEN CABLE !!!!

    Quote Originally Posted by spy_der_man View Post
    Problem solved. Broken cable. Thank you Thank you Thank you!!!!!!!
    ....Your welcome etc.etc.etc. .......OK , so do you know how to put in a new one if the dealer isn't going to do this ????.... if not I can tell you what you need to do..........Glad my method worked for you .....Mike .... PS, I'm curious as to what on the cable broke....it's a pretty sturdy item that's not too stressed.

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    IT WAS BROKEN ABOUT 6-8 INCHES FROM THE LATCH. NO SIGN OF TAMPERING. PLASTIC SLEEVE WAS INTACT. YOUR GUESS IS AS GOOD AS MINE.
    IT WILL BE A WHILE BEFORE I REPLACE IT. I DID MAKE A BACK UP LIKE YOU SUGGESTED FOR TEMPORARY USE. NOT MY GREATES WORK BUT IT DID THE JOB. THANK YOU AGAIN FOR THE ADVICE. I CAN'T THANK YOU ENOUGH

    Quote Originally Posted by BLUEKNIGHT911 View Post
    ....Your welcome etc.etc.etc. .......OK , so do you know how to put in a new one if the dealer isn't going to do this ????.... if not I can tell you what you need to do..........Glad my method worked for you .....Mike .... PS, I'm curious as to what on the cable broke....it's a pretty sturdy item that's not too stressed.

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    Very Active Member BLUEKNIGHT911's Avatar
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    Default CABLE BROKE

    Quote Originally Posted by spy_der_man View Post
    IT WAS BROKEN ABOUT 6-8 INCHES FROM THE LATCH. NO SIGN OF TAMPERING. PLASTIC SLEEVE WAS INTACT..........THAT SLEEVE IS ONLY PLASTIC COATED .....IT IS ACTUALLY A SEMI-FLEXIBLE METAL TUBE ....WITH THE CABLE INSIDE.....IT'S VERY SIMILAR TO THE BRAKE CABLES ON BICYCLES..........DID THE WIRE CABLE ITSELF BREAK OR DID THE END FERRULE COME OFF ......BECAUSE IF IT'S THE FERRULE THAT CAN BE FIXED.......MIKE YOUR GUESS IS AS GOOD AS MINE.
    IT WILL BE A WHILE BEFORE I REPLACE IT. I DID MAKE A BACK UP LIKE YOU SUGGESTED FOR TEMPORARY USE. NOT MY GREATES WORK BUT IT DID THE JOB. THANK YOU AGAIN FOR THE ADVICE. I CAN'T THANK YOU ENOUGH
    ......SEE ABOVE IN RED.......MIKE

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    Quote Originally Posted by BLUEKNIGHT911 View Post
    ......SEE ABOVE IN RED.......MIKE

    Oh sorry Mike i didn't see your post. The only thing broken was the wire cable itself.

  22. #22
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    Default FYI

    Old post from me, just thought I would throw this in.

    So last week my ONLY Spyder key got lost. I called the dealer and their first suggestion was to call a locksmith so I called six and none could help. I then called the dealer again and they said I have to replace the ignition at $1000 cost. I started to question why I only got one key with the purchase of my brand new Spyder from them and the tone changed dramatically. I was was told to get it to the dealer and they would get me a new key. It is still at the dealer and I have no idea yet how they plan to fix this. Will update when final resolution occurs. Oh and by the way UHAULS 6' x 12' open trailer only has a 5' opening so it is plenty big for the bike but getting it on (sideways imight add) I scraped the fenders.


    What I did find in this ordeal so far is a WAY too easy method of opening the trunk and seat without a key. If you turn the handlebars hard right there is a cable with a small white marking coming out of the ignition housing. The is enough slack in mine to create a small loop. I just grabbed hold pulled a a little (do not need to yank) and the Frunk popped open (I have a frunk spring). I turned the handle bar the other way and there was a solid black cable same place on the other side. Gave that a pull and sure enough the seat came open. I am sure this is universal for all RS models not sure about RT or ST models.

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    Default PUSH YOUR KEY IN BEFORE TURNING IGN OR RELEASING FRUNK/SEAT

    Quote Originally Posted by Brentc View Post
    I had a similar issue with the frunk being "tight" after my ignition was replaced. I took back to dealer and they lubricated the latch, but still is tighter than I would prefer. Ditto on Mikes suggestion to have someone put gentle pressure on lid while turning the key, and be very careful as noted about snapping the key..

    We have 2 2009 Spyder's 990RS SM5

    From day 2

    we always insert the Key 7/8ths of the way in

    then GENTLY-TAP the Key the rest of the way In

    then turn Key for Ign. - frunk & seat releases

    key should turn smoothly

    this has been a Issue with Can-Ams since 2008

    there Somewhere in the Annals of Old Post's - are previous posts

    .................................................. ....... tom n carol

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    Very Active Member sealfloorboards's Avatar
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    Got it open. Too much pressure on the latch. Thanks all for the help.
    Ride in comfort,
    John

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    Very Active Member sealfloorboards's Avatar
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    Thanks folks, I got it opened. Too much pressure on the latch. Just pushed hard on the Frunk while I turned the key. Thanks for all the helpful info. Ride safe, and...
    Ride in comfort,
    John

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