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  1. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by Deanna777 View Post
    So should I have the oil changed @ or around the 10,000 mile mark?

    Deanna
    Dee,
    Try looking at it this way; oil is pretty darn cheap, when you compare it to the cost of a busted engine. It's much better to change it early, then to change it (too) late...
    Having it done before you store the bike is always a good idea; but I've been more than guilty of having mine sit all Winter, with a tank full of oil that was ready for the mechanic's drip pan...
    2010 RT A&C, RT-L, RT-L , Orbital Blue, Cognac, Jet Black

  2. #27
    Very Active Member Deanna777's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by akspyderman View Post
    Based on what you posted earlier. You did your break-in change at 3,000. Then 9,300 later would be at 12,300. If you are now at 10,000 you could wait until spring. Some will suggest putting new oil in now for the big winter sleep. If you do it now--(10,000) then your next oil change could be around 19,300. If you wait until 12,300--then your next would be around 21,600.

    All these numbers are give or take. I am going to use maximum 9,000 in between oil changes for now. Maybe earlier--but not much later.
    The spyder goes in to it for it long ( I hope short winter's nap ) this Thursday. I will have the dealer change the oil @ the 10,000 mile mark, it would be easier for me to keep track of.

    I will go with : 10,000 mile, then mileage @ 19,300, 28,600, 37,900 etc.

    Deanna




    Current Spyder - 2023 F3 LTD Special Mineral Blue

    Red LED NANO Saddlebag Marker Lights with Full Illumination
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    Former Spyder - 2014 RTS SE6 Cognac SOLD
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  3. #28
    Very Active Member Deanna777's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bob Denman View Post
    Dee,
    Try looking at it this way; oil is pretty darn cheap, when you compare it to the cost of a busted engine. It's much better to change it early, then to change it (too) late...
    Having it done before you store the bike is always a good idea; but I've been more than guilty of having mine sit all Winter, with a tank full of oil that was ready for the mechanic's drip pan...
    Bob, I would rather have the oil changed early, then (TOO) late. I do not want to have a busted engine. Thanks for the advice. Deanna




    Current Spyder - 2023 F3 LTD Special Mineral Blue

    Red LED NANO Saddlebag Marker Lights with Full Illumination
    Sequential Fender LED'S (Amber/Red) with Safety Reflector
    Dual Power Plate (12 V & USB ports)
    Gremlin Bell
    Rear Trunk Organizer (4 holders, 2 Elastic Holders)
    Lamonster "Top Cuff" with adjustable drink Holder
    SpyderPops Missing Guard Belt
    Console Accent Trim (Carbon Fiber Domed Black)
    Ultimate F3 Floorboards
    Front Fairing Service Access Door Covers (Carbon Fiber Doomed Black)
    Sway Bar with Links
    Rolo Laser Alignment
    Half Cover


    Former Spyder - 2014 RTS SE6 Cognac SOLD
    2023 F3 LTD Special Series , N/A N/A Mineral Blue

  4. #29
    Active Member kbwitt's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pampurrs;1change 13
    I've changed the oil every 5,000 on all my previous bikes. This is the first one I've ever had that recommends such long intervals. I'll probably change it sooner than what they say just to be on the safe side.

    Thanks

    Pam
    Are you going to do your own Oil changes.
    Even if you do it your self your adding a large cost to your sypder maintance schedule.
    Kenn

  5. #30
    SpyderLovers Sponsor BajaRon's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kbwitt View Post
    Are you going to do your own Oil changes.
    Even if you do it your self your adding a large cost to your sypder maintance schedule.
    Kenn
    Have you compared the cost of having the dealership do a service every 9,300 miles to doing it yourself every 5,000? Not to mention getting it to the dealership and getting it back, etc. Not sure it wouldn't still be less expensive to do it yourself.
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  6. #31
    Pragmatic Member Pampurrs's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kbwitt View Post
    Are you going to do your own Oil changes.
    Even if you do it your self your adding a large cost to your sypder maintance schedule.
    Kenn
    Yes, I've always done my own oil changes on my bikes. The exception is that my dealership did my 3,000 mile service at no charge as it was part of the deal when I purchased the . I do as much of my own work as I can to avoid the inconvenience and expense of taking it to the dealership.

    Pam



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  7. #32
    Pragmatic Member Pampurrs's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BajaRon View Post
    Have you compared the cost of having the dealership do a service every 9,300 miles to doing it yourself every 5,000? Not to mention getting it to the dealership and getting it back, etc. Not sure it wouldn't still be less expensive to do it yourself.



    • 2015 RT-S Special Series / Red & Black
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  8. #33
    Active Member kbwitt's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BajaRon View Post
    Have you compared the cost of having the dealership do a service every 9,300 miles to doing it yourself every 5,000? Not to mention getting it to the dealership and getting it back, etc. Not sure it wouldn't still be less expensive to do it yourself.
    So what I am saying is its best to follow the manufacturers recommendation. Even if you do it your self why waste the money on oil, filter, o rings at every 5,000 you can save a lot of time and money by doing it at 9,300 instead of every 5,000. Just put a note in your clove box on oil change mileage. My Mercedes calls for oil change at 10,000. The new synthetic oils can take it. So keep your cost and time of maintenance to a minimum and still take excellent care of bike. I will bet if you went a little past 9,300 no damage or explotion.
    Kenn

  9. #34
    Very Active Member jaherbst's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BajaRon View Post
    Have you compared the cost of having the dealership do a service every 9,300 miles to doing it yourself every 5,000? Not to mention getting it to the dealership and getting it back, etc. Not sure it wouldn't still be less expensive to do it yourself.
    Getting rid of the oil is the main problem. Putting it in the trash or pouring it out behind the barn or on the dusty road is very much frowned upon these days. These oil threads are getting boring. If you do not have a clue go to the search engine. There are thousands of opinions about oil and guys trying to be smarter than the BRP engineers. Well maybe-----.

    Go with the manufacturers recomendations and you will not go wrong. Stop trying to outsmart everything and everybody because of your doubting tom attitudes. (sorry)

    I operated heavy equipment for 40 years (B747) and we only changed the oil every 1000 hours. In 29,500 hours I only had four engine failures and none were the cause of old over used engine oil.

    Jack
    Last edited by jaherbst; 10-12-2015 at 09:28 PM.
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  10. #35
    Pragmatic Member Pampurrs's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jaherbst View Post
    Getting rid of the oil is the main problem. Putting it in the trash or pouring it out behind the barn or on the dusty road is very much frowned upon these days. These oil threads are getting boring. If you do not have a clue go to the search engine. There are thousands of opinions about oil and guys trying to be smarter than the BRP engineers. Well maybe-----.

    Go with the manufacturers recomendations and you will not go wrong. Stop trying to outsmart everything and everybody because of your doubting tom attitudes. (sorry)

    Jack
    Hey Jack, if you don't like it, don't read it. I'm not trying to outsmart anyting, I was merely asking for an interpretation of the maintenance schedule.

    Sorry I ruined your day with my question.

    Pam
    Last edited by Pampurrs; 10-12-2015 at 09:59 PM.



    • 2015 RT-S Special Series / Red & Black
    • Baja Ron Sway Bar
    • Utopia Backrest
    • F4 Customs tall and wide vented windshield
    • Stebel Super Loud Air Horn
    • Baker Built Air Wings
    • LaMonster Highway Pegs
    • SpyderPops Exhaust Block Off Plate
    • SpyderPops KOTT Grill
    • SpyderPops Belt Guard
    • Cat Bypass
    • Laser Alignment by Squared Away
    • TricLED Fender Lights
    • General Altimax RT43 rear tire
    • Dual flag holder
    • Mud Flap
    • A$$hole seeking missile system




  11. #36
    Registered Users Andy Cserny's Avatar
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    Default oil change interval

    Quote Originally Posted by Deanna777 View Post
    Last year(10/2/14) I had the oil/ oil filter changed @ the 3,000 mile break- in time frame, this riding season I have over 10,000 miles, and (Thursday the spyder goes in for it winter hibernation), some time this year or next year the oil will get changed, @ the dealership.

    Someone give me a suggestion.......... I have 10,000 miles on spyder, + 9,300= 19,300. Would 19,300 miles would be my next oil change?????

    I have a 2014RTS-SE6 ( 1330 engine)


    Deanna
    Dont let the dirty oil with all the acids and contaminants sit in the engine until next year or whenever you get "round to it", do it now if you arent going to ride it any more this year. Just my two cents
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  12. #37
    Very Active Member ulflyer's Avatar
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    Default Another Oil Thread.....

    Pam, I hope BRP has it right about going 9300 between oil/filter changes. In most cases it won't matter because the majority of folks don't keep their bikes long enough or put enough mileage on that it matters.

    However, I prefer to err on the side of caution. I read BITOG and other auto/bike forums regularly and find that there are instances where "The Engineers" did not always know best. For example, a car maker says transmission oil good for the lifetime...and after a few years transmissions start to fail. Now, they call for transmission oil changes every 40K. Numerous instances similar to that in the car world. Sometimes errors show up early, as in the '13 Can Am models, and sometimes it takes much longer.

    As for our Can Am's, I put 32K on my previous '11 model and 21K now on the '14. Oil was changed no more than 4000 miles, and often much sooner. I lab tested nearly every change and found that no matter what brand of oil, conventional, semi-syn, or synthetic I used, it would shear down as low as 20W in pretty short order. I don't know what it would shear to if run 9300 miles. They call for 5-40 or 10-40; I don't feel good running 20W......or less.

    I'll never run my oil that long. I'm 81YO and still do my own. Been at it for a long time. You're right, that alone doesn't make me an expert. It does allow me to have a firm opinion.

    For what we paid for these machines, I don't consider the price of oil, or frequent changing to be a bother.

    A lot of us feel this way. A lot prefer to go by the book.

    Every person has to decide what suits him/her best.
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  13. #38
    Very Active Member jaherbst's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pampurrs View Post
    Hey Jack, if you don't like it, don't read it. I'm not trying to outsmart anyting, I was merely asking for an interpretation of the maintenance schedule.

    Sorry I ruined your day with my question.

    Pam
    Sorry Pam I was having a grumpy day. Too many oil opinions delude the subject and confuse new owners. That why we have owners manuals so that you do not get confused from all the different rhetoric. Have a great day. Did not mean to offend you.

    Jack
    All my life I wanted to be somebody, now I realize I should have been more specific.
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    2018 Tiffin Phaeton 37BH Motorhome
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  14. #39
    Very Active Member BLUEKNIGHT911's Avatar
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    Default OIL

    Quote Originally Posted by ulflyer View Post
    Pam, I hope BRP has it right about going 9300 between oil/filter changes. In most cases it won't matter because the majority of folks don't keep their bikes long enough or put enough mileage on that it matters.

    However, I prefer to err on the side of caution. I read BITOG and other auto/bike forums regularly and find that there are instances where "The Engineers" did not always know best. For example, a car maker says transmission oil good for the lifetime...and after a few years transmissions start to fail. Now, they call for transmission oil changes every 40K. Numerous instances similar to that in the car world. Sometimes errors show up early, as in the '13 Can Am models, and sometimes it takes much longer.

    As for our Can Am's, I put 32K on my previous '11 model and 21K now on the '14. Oil was changed no more than 4000 miles, and often much sooner. I lab tested nearly every change and found that no matter what brand of oil, conventional, semi-syn, or synthetic I used, it would shear down as low as 20W in pretty short order. I don't know what it would shear to if run 9300 miles. They call for 5-40 or 10-40; I don't feel good running 20W......or less.

    I'll never run my oil that long. I'm 81YO and still do my own. Been at it for a long time. You're right, that alone doesn't make me an expert. It does allow me to have a firm opinion.

    For what we paid for these machines, I don't consider the price of oil, or frequent changing to be a bother.

    A lot of us feel this way. A lot prefer to go by the book.

    Every person has to decide what suits him/her best.
    ..........WITH YOU ....But what do we know ......Mike

  15. #40
    Active Member robtdonna's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pampurrs View Post
    Yes, I've always done my own oil changes on my bikes. The exception is that my dealership did my 3,000 mile service at no charge as it was part of the deal when I purchased the . I do as much of my own work as I can to avoid the inconvenience and expense of taking it to the dealership.

    Pam
    Pam, kudos for DIY. I too, have always done it myself, I bought two oil change kits and a case of Amsoil from Bajaron (covering this oil change and the next) and spent roughly 25% of what the dealers in this area wanted for one oil change!
    Current: "Scarlett", 2017 Can Am F3-T, SE6, Intense Red Pearl.
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    Previous: "Synthia", 2014 Can Am Spyder RT, SM6, Pearl White.

  16. #41
    Active Member robtdonna's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jaherbst View Post
    Getting rid of the oil is the main problem. Putting it in the trash or pouring it out behind the barn or on the dusty road is very much frowned upon these days. These oil threads are getting boring. If you do not have a clue go to the search engine. There are thousands of opinions about oil and guys trying to be smarter than the BRP engineers. Well maybe-----.

    Go with the manufacturers recomendations and you will not go wrong. Stop trying to outsmart everything and everybody because of your doubting tom attitudes. (sorry)

    I operated heavy equipment for 40 years (B747) and we only changed the oil every 1000 hours. In 29,500 hours I only had four engine failures and none were the cause of old over used engine oil.

    Jack
    My local Walmart takes used oil. I just pour it from pan into a plastic milk jug and drop it off. Easy Peasy !
    Current: "Scarlett", 2017 Can Am F3-T, SE6, Intense Red Pearl.
    BRP heated grips, DIY brake light strip and turn signal strips, Chrome/LED brake light tag frame, SpyderPops bumpskid, Baja Ron swaybar and billet links, Lamonster Third Peg, BRP Adjustable Passenger Backrest, SpyderPops Missing Belt Guard, ShowChrome oversize brake pedal, TricLED foglights.


    Previous: "Synthia", 2014 Can Am Spyder RT, SM6, Pearl White.

  17. #42
    Very Active Member ulflyer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by robtdonna View Post
    My local Walmart takes used oil. I just pour it from pan into a plastic milk jug and drop it off. Easy Peasy !
    Good way to do it. Don't let the milk jug sit around for a very long time...like 6-8 months....or the oil will eventually eat thru
    the plastic. I used to leave them in my shed till i had a half doz or so and then dump them. Went out one day and there was a gal of oil all over the floor. What a mess.
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  18. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by robtdonna View Post
    I don't worry about mileage. One year is my interval. (Yes, when and if I sell someone will be getting a very low mileage machine !)
    . That's my plan too. I think 5K miles is the most we'll put on in a year.
    Last edited by MikeT; 10-13-2015 at 04:06 PM.
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  19. #44
    Active Member robtdonna's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ulflyer View Post
    Good way to do it. Don't let the milk jug sit around for a very long time...like 6-8 months....or the oil will eventually eat thru
    the plastic. I used to leave them in my shed till i had a half doz or so and then dump them. Went out one day and there was a gal of oil all over the floor. What a mess.
    Yes, am aware of that, so I recycle within a week after milk jugging !
    Current: "Scarlett", 2017 Can Am F3-T, SE6, Intense Red Pearl.
    BRP heated grips, DIY brake light strip and turn signal strips, Chrome/LED brake light tag frame, SpyderPops bumpskid, Baja Ron swaybar and billet links, Lamonster Third Peg, BRP Adjustable Passenger Backrest, SpyderPops Missing Belt Guard, ShowChrome oversize brake pedal, TricLED foglights.


    Previous: "Synthia", 2014 Can Am Spyder RT, SM6, Pearl White.

  20. #45
    Very Active Member Deanna777's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Andy Cserny View Post
    Dont let the dirty oil with all the acids and contaminants sit in the engine until next year or whenever you get "round to it", do it now if you arent going to ride it any more this year. Just my two cents
    Andy
    Andy, The can-am dealer that I take my spyder to changes the oil/ filter in the fall, and does other things ( set tire pressures, check condition of the battery, install battery tender). Deanna




    Current Spyder - 2023 F3 LTD Special Mineral Blue

    Red LED NANO Saddlebag Marker Lights with Full Illumination
    Sequential Fender LED'S (Amber/Red) with Safety Reflector
    Dual Power Plate (12 V & USB ports)
    Gremlin Bell
    Rear Trunk Organizer (4 holders, 2 Elastic Holders)
    Lamonster "Top Cuff" with adjustable drink Holder
    SpyderPops Missing Guard Belt
    Console Accent Trim (Carbon Fiber Domed Black)
    Ultimate F3 Floorboards
    Front Fairing Service Access Door Covers (Carbon Fiber Doomed Black)
    Sway Bar with Links
    Rolo Laser Alignment
    Half Cover


    Former Spyder - 2014 RTS SE6 Cognac SOLD
    2023 F3 LTD Special Series , N/A N/A Mineral Blue

  21. #46
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    I've switched to changing my oil every 100 hours. It is easy to remember and the display reminds me.

    100 hours for me is between 4,500 and 5,000 miles.



    Edit: My local Wal-Mart allows me to bring in oil in a five gallon bucket and dump it into their tank. I reuse the bucket.

  22. #47
    Pragmatic Member Pampurrs's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Xyzzy View Post
    I've switched to changing my oil every 100 hours. It is easy to remember and the display reminds me.

    100 hours for me is between 4,500 and 5,000 miles.
    Your display tells you how many hours you've ridden since your last oil change?

    Pam



    • 2015 RT-S Special Series / Red & Black
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    • Laser Alignment by Squared Away
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  23. #48
    Active Member Xyzzy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pampurrs View Post
    Your display tells you how many hours you've ridden since your last oil change?
    It does if you do the oil changes at 100 hour increments.

    I'm at 177 hours today!


  24. #49
    Pragmatic Member Pampurrs's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Xyzzy View Post
    It does if you do the oil changes at 100 hour increments.

    I'm at 177 hours today!

    What model of Spyder do you have that shows the hours on the display? I don't have that on my RT.



    • 2015 RT-S Special Series / Red & Black
    • Baja Ron Sway Bar
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    • F4 Customs tall and wide vented windshield
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    • Baker Built Air Wings
    • LaMonster Highway Pegs
    • SpyderPops Exhaust Block Off Plate
    • SpyderPops KOTT Grill
    • SpyderPops Belt Guard
    • Cat Bypass
    • Laser Alignment by Squared Away
    • TricLED Fender Lights
    • General Altimax RT43 rear tire
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    • Mud Flap
    • A$$hole seeking missile system




  25. #50
    Active Member Xyzzy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pampurrs View Post
    What model of Spyder do you have that shows the hours on the display?
    F3-S

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