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Originally Posted by Deanna777
So should I have the oil changed @ or around the 10,000 mile mark?
Deanna
Dee,
Try looking at it this way; oil is pretty darn cheap, when you compare it to the cost of a busted engine. It's much better to change it early, then to change it (too) late...
Having it done before you store the bike is always a good idea; but I've been more than guilty of having mine sit all Winter, with a tank full of oil that was ready for the mechanic's drip pan...
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Originally Posted by akspyderman
Based on what you posted earlier. You did your break-in change at 3,000. Then 9,300 later would be at 12,300. If you are now at 10,000 you could wait until spring. Some will suggest putting new oil in now for the big winter sleep. If you do it now--(10,000) then your next oil change could be around 19,300. If you wait until 12,300--then your next would be around 21,600.
All these numbers are give or take. I am going to use maximum 9,000 in between oil changes for now. Maybe earlier--but not much later.
The spyder goes in to it for it long ( I hope short winter's nap ) this Thursday. I will have the dealer change the oil @ the 10,000 mile mark, it would be easier for me to keep track of.
I will go with : 10,000 mile, then mileage @ 19,300, 28,600, 37,900 etc.
Deanna
Current Spyder - 2023 F3 LTD Special Mineral Blue
Red LED NANO Saddlebag Marker Lights with Full Illumination
Sequential Fender LED'S (Amber/Red) with Safety Reflector
Dual Power Plate (12 V & USB ports)
Gremlin Bell
Rear Trunk Organizer (4 holders, 2 Elastic Holders)
Lamonster "Top Cuff" with adjustable drink Holder
SpyderPops Missing Guard Belt
Console Accent Trim (Carbon Fiber Domed Black)
Ultimate F3 Floorboards
Front Fairing Service Access Door Covers (Carbon Fiber Doomed Black)
Sway Bar with Links
Rolo Laser Alignment
Half Cover
A-Arm Daytime Dual Color LED Running Lights with Blinker Module
Hi-Viz DRL and Sequential Mirrors lights
Marinco 12Volt Power Receptacle with polarized leads & slide lock
Show chrome Trunk Shock
Former Spyder - 2014 RTS SE6 Cognac SOLD
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by Bob Denman
Dee,
Try looking at it this way; oil is pretty darn cheap, when you compare it to the cost of a busted engine. It's much better to change it early, then to change it (too) late...
Having it done before you store the bike is always a good idea; but I've been more than guilty of having mine sit all Winter, with a tank full of oil that was ready for the mechanic's drip pan...
Bob, I would rather have the oil changed early, then (TOO) late. I do not want to have a busted engine. Thanks for the advice. Deanna
Current Spyder - 2023 F3 LTD Special Mineral Blue
Red LED NANO Saddlebag Marker Lights with Full Illumination
Sequential Fender LED'S (Amber/Red) with Safety Reflector
Dual Power Plate (12 V & USB ports)
Gremlin Bell
Rear Trunk Organizer (4 holders, 2 Elastic Holders)
Lamonster "Top Cuff" with adjustable drink Holder
SpyderPops Missing Guard Belt
Console Accent Trim (Carbon Fiber Domed Black)
Ultimate F3 Floorboards
Front Fairing Service Access Door Covers (Carbon Fiber Doomed Black)
Sway Bar with Links
Rolo Laser Alignment
Half Cover
A-Arm Daytime Dual Color LED Running Lights with Blinker Module
Hi-Viz DRL and Sequential Mirrors lights
Marinco 12Volt Power Receptacle with polarized leads & slide lock
Show chrome Trunk Shock
Former Spyder - 2014 RTS SE6 Cognac SOLD
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Originally Posted by Pampurrs;1change 13
I've changed the oil every 5,000 on all my previous bikes. This is the first one I've ever had that recommends such long intervals. I'll probably change it sooner than what they say just to be on the safe side.
Thanks
Pam
Are you going to do your own Oil changes.
Even if you do it your self your adding a large cost to your sypder maintance schedule.
Kenn
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Originally Posted by kbwitt
Are you going to do your own Oil changes.
Even if you do it your self your adding a large cost to your sypder maintance schedule.
Kenn
Have you compared the cost of having the dealership do a service every 9,300 miles to doing it yourself every 5,000? Not to mention getting it to the dealership and getting it back, etc. Not sure it wouldn't still be less expensive to do it yourself.
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Originally Posted by kbwitt
Are you going to do your own Oil changes.
Even if you do it your self your adding a large cost to your sypder maintance schedule.
Kenn
Yes, I've always done my own oil changes on my bikes. The exception is that my dealership did my 3,000 mile service at no charge as it was part of the deal when I purchased the . I do as much of my own work as I can to avoid the inconvenience and expense of taking it to the dealership.
Pam
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Originally Posted by BajaRon
Have you compared the cost of having the dealership do a service every 9,300 miles to doing it yourself every 5,000? Not to mention getting it to the dealership and getting it back, etc. Not sure it wouldn't still be less expensive to do it yourself.
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Originally Posted by BajaRon
Have you compared the cost of having the dealership do a service every 9,300 miles to doing it yourself every 5,000? Not to mention getting it to the dealership and getting it back, etc. Not sure it wouldn't still be less expensive to do it yourself.
So what I am saying is its best to follow the manufacturers recommendation. Even if you do it your self why waste the money on oil, filter, o rings at every 5,000 you can save a lot of time and money by doing it at 9,300 instead of every 5,000. Just put a note in your clove box on oil change mileage. My Mercedes calls for oil change at 10,000. The new synthetic oils can take it. So keep your cost and time of maintenance to a minimum and still take excellent care of bike. I will bet if you went a little past 9,300 no damage or explotion.
Kenn
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by BajaRon
Have you compared the cost of having the dealership do a service every 9,300 miles to doing it yourself every 5,000? Not to mention getting it to the dealership and getting it back, etc. Not sure it wouldn't still be less expensive to do it yourself.
Getting rid of the oil is the main problem. Putting it in the trash or pouring it out behind the barn or on the dusty road is very much frowned upon these days. These oil threads are getting boring. If you do not have a clue go to the search engine. There are thousands of opinions about oil and guys trying to be smarter than the BRP engineers. Well maybe-----.
Go with the manufacturers recomendations and you will not go wrong. Stop trying to outsmart everything and everybody because of your doubting tom attitudes. (sorry)
I operated heavy equipment for 40 years (B747) and we only changed the oil every 1000 hours. In 29,500 hours I only had four engine failures and none were the cause of old over used engine oil.
Jack
Last edited by jaherbst; 10-12-2015 at 09:28 PM.
All my life I wanted to be somebody, now I realize I should have been more specific.
2019 Specialized E-Bike COMO 2.0
2018 Jeep Grand Cherokee Overland
2018 Tiffin Phaeton 37BH Motorhome
2015 BMW R1200R LC
2014 RTL SE6 Pearl White
2012 RT-622 trailer viper red
2014 Look 7x12 motorcycle trailer silver and black
2011 Polaris Ranger green
2013 GMC Yukon Denali XL silver oak
2016 Can Am Maverick
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Originally Posted by jaherbst
Getting rid of the oil is the main problem. Putting it in the trash or pouring it out behind the barn or on the dusty road is very much frowned upon these days. These oil threads are getting boring. If you do not have a clue go to the search engine. There are thousands of opinions about oil and guys trying to be smarter than the BRP engineers. Well maybe-----.
Go with the manufacturers recomendations and you will not go wrong. Stop trying to outsmart everything and everybody because of your doubting tom attitudes. (sorry)
Jack
Hey Jack, if you don't like it, don't read it. I'm not trying to outsmart anyting, I was merely asking for an interpretation of the maintenance schedule.
Sorry I ruined your day with my question.
Pam
Last edited by Pampurrs; 10-12-2015 at 09:59 PM.
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oil change interval
Originally Posted by Deanna777
Last year(10/2/14) I had the oil/ oil filter changed @ the 3,000 mile break- in time frame, this riding season I have over 10,000 miles, and (Thursday the spyder goes in for it winter hibernation), some time this year or next year the oil will get changed, @ the dealership.
Someone give me a suggestion.......... I have 10,000 miles on spyder, + 9,300= 19,300. Would 19,300 miles would be my next oil change?????
I have a 2014RTS-SE6 ( 1330 engine)
Deanna
Dont let the dirty oil with all the acids and contaminants sit in the engine until next year or whenever you get "round to it", do it now if you arent going to ride it any more this year. Just my two cents
Andy
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Very Active Member
Another Oil Thread.....
Pam, I hope BRP has it right about going 9300 between oil/filter changes. In most cases it won't matter because the majority of folks don't keep their bikes long enough or put enough mileage on that it matters.
However, I prefer to err on the side of caution. I read BITOG and other auto/bike forums regularly and find that there are instances where "The Engineers" did not always know best. For example, a car maker says transmission oil good for the lifetime...and after a few years transmissions start to fail. Now, they call for transmission oil changes every 40K. Numerous instances similar to that in the car world. Sometimes errors show up early, as in the '13 Can Am models, and sometimes it takes much longer.
As for our Can Am's, I put 32K on my previous '11 model and 21K now on the '14. Oil was changed no more than 4000 miles, and often much sooner. I lab tested nearly every change and found that no matter what brand of oil, conventional, semi-syn, or synthetic I used, it would shear down as low as 20W in pretty short order. I don't know what it would shear to if run 9300 miles. They call for 5-40 or 10-40; I don't feel good running 20W......or less.
I'll never run my oil that long. I'm 81YO and still do my own. Been at it for a long time. You're right, that alone doesn't make me an expert. It does allow me to have a firm opinion.
For what we paid for these machines, I don't consider the price of oil, or frequent changing to be a bother.
A lot of us feel this way. A lot prefer to go by the book.
Every person has to decide what suits him/her best.
Two Wheelers from 1963-2011
Three Wheelers:
2011 RT(Red)
2014 RT(white)
2016 F3T(red)
2022 RT current ride(silver)
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Originally Posted by Pampurrs
Hey Jack, if you don't like it, don't read it. I'm not trying to outsmart anyting, I was merely asking for an interpretation of the maintenance schedule.
Sorry I ruined your day with my question.
Pam
Sorry Pam I was having a grumpy day. Too many oil opinions delude the subject and confuse new owners. That why we have owners manuals so that you do not get confused from all the different rhetoric. Have a great day. Did not mean to offend you.
Jack
All my life I wanted to be somebody, now I realize I should have been more specific.
2019 Specialized E-Bike COMO 2.0
2018 Jeep Grand Cherokee Overland
2018 Tiffin Phaeton 37BH Motorhome
2015 BMW R1200R LC
2014 RTL SE6 Pearl White
2012 RT-622 trailer viper red
2014 Look 7x12 motorcycle trailer silver and black
2011 Polaris Ranger green
2013 GMC Yukon Denali XL silver oak
2016 Can Am Maverick
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OIL
Originally Posted by ulflyer
Pam, I hope BRP has it right about going 9300 between oil/filter changes. In most cases it won't matter because the majority of folks don't keep their bikes long enough or put enough mileage on that it matters.
However, I prefer to err on the side of caution. I read BITOG and other auto/bike forums regularly and find that there are instances where "The Engineers" did not always know best. For example, a car maker says transmission oil good for the lifetime...and after a few years transmissions start to fail. Now, they call for transmission oil changes every 40K. Numerous instances similar to that in the car world. Sometimes errors show up early, as in the '13 Can Am models, and sometimes it takes much longer.
As for our Can Am's, I put 32K on my previous '11 model and 21K now on the '14. Oil was changed no more than 4000 miles, and often much sooner. I lab tested nearly every change and found that no matter what brand of oil, conventional, semi-syn, or synthetic I used, it would shear down as low as 20W in pretty short order. I don't know what it would shear to if run 9300 miles. They call for 5-40 or 10-40; I don't feel good running 20W......or less.
I'll never run my oil that long. I'm 81YO and still do my own. Been at it for a long time. You're right, that alone doesn't make me an expert. It does allow me to have a firm opinion.
For what we paid for these machines, I don't consider the price of oil, or frequent changing to be a bother.
A lot of us feel this way. A lot prefer to go by the book.
Every person has to decide what suits him/her best.
..........WITH YOU ....But what do we know ......Mike
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Active Member
Originally Posted by Pampurrs
Yes, I've always done my own oil changes on my bikes. The exception is that my dealership did my 3,000 mile service at no charge as it was part of the deal when I purchased the . I do as much of my own work as I can to avoid the inconvenience and expense of taking it to the dealership.
Pam
Pam, kudos for DIY. I too, have always done it myself, I bought two oil change kits and a case of Amsoil from Bajaron (covering this oil change and the next) and spent roughly 25% of what the dealers in this area wanted for one oil change!
Current: "Scarlett", 2017 Can Am F3-T, SE6, Intense Red Pearl.
BRP heated grips, DIY brake light strip and turn signal strips, Chrome/LED brake light tag frame, SpyderPops bumpskid, Baja Ron swaybar and billet links, Lamonster Third Peg, BRP Adjustable Passenger Backrest, SpyderPops Missing Belt Guard, ShowChrome oversize brake pedal, TricLED foglights.
Previous: "Synthia", 2014 Can Am Spyder RT, SM6, Pearl White.
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Active Member
Originally Posted by jaherbst
Getting rid of the oil is the main problem. Putting it in the trash or pouring it out behind the barn or on the dusty road is very much frowned upon these days. These oil threads are getting boring. If you do not have a clue go to the search engine. There are thousands of opinions about oil and guys trying to be smarter than the BRP engineers. Well maybe-----.
Go with the manufacturers recomendations and you will not go wrong. Stop trying to outsmart everything and everybody because of your doubting tom attitudes. (sorry)
I operated heavy equipment for 40 years (B747) and we only changed the oil every 1000 hours. In 29,500 hours I only had four engine failures and none were the cause of old over used engine oil.
Jack
My local Walmart takes used oil. I just pour it from pan into a plastic milk jug and drop it off. Easy Peasy !
Current: "Scarlett", 2017 Can Am F3-T, SE6, Intense Red Pearl.
BRP heated grips, DIY brake light strip and turn signal strips, Chrome/LED brake light tag frame, SpyderPops bumpskid, Baja Ron swaybar and billet links, Lamonster Third Peg, BRP Adjustable Passenger Backrest, SpyderPops Missing Belt Guard, ShowChrome oversize brake pedal, TricLED foglights.
Previous: "Synthia", 2014 Can Am Spyder RT, SM6, Pearl White.
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Originally Posted by robtdonna
My local Walmart takes used oil. I just pour it from pan into a plastic milk jug and drop it off. Easy Peasy !
Good way to do it. Don't let the milk jug sit around for a very long time...like 6-8 months....or the oil will eventually eat thru
the plastic. I used to leave them in my shed till i had a half doz or so and then dump them. Went out one day and there was a gal of oil all over the floor. What a mess.
Two Wheelers from 1963-2011
Three Wheelers:
2011 RT(Red)
2014 RT(white)
2016 F3T(red)
2022 RT current ride(silver)
__________________
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2018 Vanderhall
2019 Slingshot
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Originally Posted by robtdonna
I don't worry about mileage. One year is my interval. (Yes, when and if I sell someone will be getting a very low mileage machine !)
. That's my plan too. I think 5K miles is the most we'll put on in a year.
Last edited by MikeT; 10-13-2015 at 04:06 PM.
2021 Marsala Red Metallic RT Limited
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Originally Posted by ulflyer
Good way to do it. Don't let the milk jug sit around for a very long time...like 6-8 months....or the oil will eventually eat thru
the plastic. I used to leave them in my shed till i had a half doz or so and then dump them. Went out one day and there was a gal of oil all over the floor. What a mess.
Yes, am aware of that, so I recycle within a week after milk jugging !
Current: "Scarlett", 2017 Can Am F3-T, SE6, Intense Red Pearl.
BRP heated grips, DIY brake light strip and turn signal strips, Chrome/LED brake light tag frame, SpyderPops bumpskid, Baja Ron swaybar and billet links, Lamonster Third Peg, BRP Adjustable Passenger Backrest, SpyderPops Missing Belt Guard, ShowChrome oversize brake pedal, TricLED foglights.
Previous: "Synthia", 2014 Can Am Spyder RT, SM6, Pearl White.
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by Andy Cserny
Dont let the dirty oil with all the acids and contaminants sit in the engine until next year or whenever you get "round to it", do it now if you arent going to ride it any more this year. Just my two cents
Andy
Andy, The can-am dealer that I take my spyder to changes the oil/ filter in the fall, and does other things ( set tire pressures, check condition of the battery, install battery tender). Deanna
Current Spyder - 2023 F3 LTD Special Mineral Blue
Red LED NANO Saddlebag Marker Lights with Full Illumination
Sequential Fender LED'S (Amber/Red) with Safety Reflector
Dual Power Plate (12 V & USB ports)
Gremlin Bell
Rear Trunk Organizer (4 holders, 2 Elastic Holders)
Lamonster "Top Cuff" with adjustable drink Holder
SpyderPops Missing Guard Belt
Console Accent Trim (Carbon Fiber Domed Black)
Ultimate F3 Floorboards
Front Fairing Service Access Door Covers (Carbon Fiber Doomed Black)
Sway Bar with Links
Rolo Laser Alignment
Half Cover
A-Arm Daytime Dual Color LED Running Lights with Blinker Module
Hi-Viz DRL and Sequential Mirrors lights
Marinco 12Volt Power Receptacle with polarized leads & slide lock
Show chrome Trunk Shock
Former Spyder - 2014 RTS SE6 Cognac SOLD
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I've switched to changing my oil every 100 hours. It is easy to remember and the display reminds me.
100 hours for me is between 4,500 and 5,000 miles.
Edit: My local Wal-Mart allows me to bring in oil in a five gallon bucket and dump it into their tank. I reuse the bucket.
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Originally Posted by Xyzzy
I've switched to changing my oil every 100 hours. It is easy to remember and the display reminds me.
100 hours for me is between 4,500 and 5,000 miles.
Your display tells you how many hours you've ridden since your last oil change?
Pam
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Originally Posted by Xyzzy
It does if you do the oil changes at 100 hour increments.
I'm at 177 hours today!
What model of Spyder do you have that shows the hours on the display? I don't have that on my RT.
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