Electrical help...please!

[dlby]

2cents worth

I left key on overnight

9 month old 2014 rtse6

No amount of
1. Charging with 4,8, or 20 amp or desulfate would fix it

2. It would not jump start in any configuration

3. All kind of screen displays yada yada going on

4. Thought bike was in big trouble

5. 2 days later bought new battery

6. Been riding ever since
Go figure---

Does not act like any machine ever owned in 47 years of machines that move me around

But I love it!


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[iceworm]

Couple of notes on batteries - probably stuff everybody knows.

Up until maybe ten years ago, all that was available for motorcycles, snow machines, ATMs were wet lead acid, caps on top. Definitely leak if turned on their side. Shipped dry, electrolyte separate.

Maintenance Free batteries are WLA, chemistry is such that they don't boil off much when charged properly. They have vents, if overcharged they will boil out and die. Although one can sometimes pry off the cell covers and add water. However, once boiled out they are pretty well done. These will leak if set on their side. All I have seen are shipped wet.

The other chemistry is AGM (absorbed glass mat) sometimes called VRLA. These are a lead acid type. The plate separator (the glass mat) is saturated with electrolyte, no free liquid, no caps - not even ones hidden under a cover strip. This is the same as shown in post 57. If overcharged the sealed vents will open and relieve pressure. They are pretty much done in if that happens. One can overcharge these about .9 times. These won't leak laying on their side. They are shipped with electrolyte in the battery.

I don't know anything about vehicle sized lithium ion or lithium polymer.

We had a2010 RTS for three days. Battery laying on its side. It was an AGM. I haven't seen the battery in the 15 RTS, however I highly suspect it is an AGM.

agm is good. High power density, low internal resistance. Small size, high cranking amps, don't leak. One has to be careful about overcharging, and they don't recover well if allowed to go clear dead.

About 5 years ago I finally found AGM style that would fit the WLA compartments in the snow machines and atv. Batteries + had them. Much better.

I didn't give any references. The different chemistries are well known and easy to look up if one is interested. But there is a lot junk science on the Internet - possibly including this post.

One final note: "Gel-cells" are not the same chemistry as "AGM". No matter what anybody says.

[latony007]

I could not get any straight answer from two dealers. All they could say was that BRP recomended replacing the DPS and hoping it solved both the DPS light issue and the limp home issue. I was not confident with that and do not trust my dealer at all. I wound up getting a great price and trade in offer from Imotorsports in IL and had them ship me a brand new RT and take away my GS. I have wanted the RT because its so much more comfy for not just me but my wife and daughter and since i almost always ride the spyder when i am 2 up (i have a yamaha i ride when alone) it seemed like a good time to do it. I just recently got some extra room on my house loan so this was really the only time i was going to be able to afford it so i took the plunge. Now i am afraid to touch or do anything to this one lol. I think it will remain stock for a while. Thanks everyone.

[Magdave]

If you are still getting a voltage fault I doubt the DPS is causing it. Reversing you seat wires ( BIG load) may have cooked the stator. Charging the battery at home will get you going but it is not charging on the road. You need to put a VOM on the battery after you charge it and start the bike and see if it slowly dies. If so it is your charging system.