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... So now that the House is-a-rockin'...
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If you put 2 ohm speaker into a system that calls for 4 ohm if you keep it turned up it WILL cook the amp. I am a Journeyman Electrician so I know the facts. Putting higher impedance speaker will not damage the amp but will result in less power out.
When matching amplifiers to loudspeakers, the output impedance of the amplifier should match that of the loudspeakers as accurately as possible, to ensure that the amplifier is able to deliver its maximum rated power. If the speaker impedance is lower than that of the amplifier's output impedance, the amplifier will be forced to work too hard, which will cause overheating and possibly failure. If the amplifier has an overload protection circuit built-in, this may operate and shut down the amplifier, either partially or completely.
http://www.soundonsound.com/sos/1994...impedance.html
Just because you CAN do something does mean you should. By the way those are JBL not JBC speakers.
Last edited by Magdave; 09-23-2015 at 01:20 PM.
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Highlights
- Great JBL Sound Quality
- UniPivot Tweeter Pod for smooth highs and great imaging
- Plus One woofer cones for the high output and deep bass
- True 4-Ohm design pulls the most power out of your system
- Easy to install
This is in the listing where I bought the speakers, it says both 4 ohm and 2 ohm, so who knows, I am going to find out more about this part.
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#1. Why does JBL ( one of the largest and foremost speaker manufactures ) sell these as direct re-placement for 4 OHM speakers?
#2. Do you think the Techs at JBL are lying to the public to sell their product.....or has this been worked out correctly by them?
#3. the link you posted is dated 1994. Is it still relevant? Or has something changed?
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Well I don't know my "amperage" from my "Ohm-Hole"...
But what you did sure sounds great, and I wish you the best of luck with it!
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Very Active Member
Would love to do this. Butt, don't have the wherewithall to do it. Nice sound! Tom
Baloo is my name. Spyders are my game. Well, it's a doo-bah-dee-doo, yes, it's a doo-bah-dee-doo, I mean a doo-bee, doo-bee, doo-bee, doo-bee, doo-bee-dee-doo. And, well, now. Ha ha! What have we here?
2020 Petrol Blue Metallic RTL
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Originally Posted by beadaholic
#1. Why does JBL ( one of the largest and foremost speaker manufactures ) sell these as direct re-placement for 4 OHM speakers?
#2. Do you think the Techs at JBL are lying to the public to sell their product.....or has this been worked out correctly by them?
#3. the link you posted is dated 1994. Is it still relevant? Or has something changed?
Nothing has ever changed with impedance matching amps and speakers, basic electronics remain the same. Bob the key is not when and if you don't turn it up all the way it MAY be ok for a long time keeping it at a volume that is not louder than the OEM's were. It is close to and at full volume that the issues occur. Basically you are overheating the output transistors at that point with less resistance from the speakers. I do not know where you are getting 4 ohm from but this is from JBL Spec sheet.
GTO528
5-1/4" (130mm) 2-Way Loudspeaker
• Plus One
® (patent pending)woofer cone
• 1" (25mm) edge-driven My-Ti
™ tweeter
• Frequency response: 70Hz – 21kHz
• Sensitivity: 91dB
• Impedance: 2 ohms
• Power handling, RMS: 45 watts
• Power handling, peak: 135 watts
• Mounting depth: 2-3/8" (61mm)
• Cutout diameter: 4-3/4" (120mm)
Last edited by Magdave; 09-23-2015 at 09:23 PM.
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The first try at upgrading speakers as I remember it were with 4 ohm JBL's . They sounder better but were not significantly louder. Lowering the speaker impedance (resistance) does create more Watts but at the risk of cooking the amp.
Now most High quality home AVR's take 8 ohm speakers and can be stable down to 4 ohms. I am doubtful of the quality of the amplifier quality on our spyders so going from 4ohm to 2 ohm may or may not work in the long run. Roll the dice at your own risk.
Here is a little more light reading explaining my point
Ideally an amplifier should be a constant voltage source.That is, for a given input signal, the amplifier should produce a constant voltage across the speaker terminals whatever the load. For example, if the amplifier is producing 20 Volts at the output terminals, Ohms law (R=V/I) tells us that there are 50 watts being fed into an 8 Ohm speaker (watts equal voltage squared divided by impedance). If we connect a 4 Ohm speaker, halving the original load, the same 20 Volts would now produce 100 watts, and further, 200 watts into 2 Ohms. From this example we clearly see that each time the load resistance is halved, the amplifier should ideally double its output. This high current capability is especially important if the loudspeaker impedance dips into a very low range. To make this happen, the amplifiers’ the power supply must also double its current delivery to the output transistors for this equation to hold up. The continued doubling must stop at some point, the progression cannot go on forever and, if carried too far, could end in disaster. Either the power supply will run out of current and fail to maintain the amplifiers output wattage, or worse, go beyond the capability of the output devices, creating excessive heat and eventually destruction of the transistors.
http://www.gcaudio.com/resources/howtos/spkramp.html
Last edited by Magdave; 09-23-2015 at 09:42 PM.
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I ran the gauntlet of trial and error then finally settled on a high quality 400 amp after my stock radio with DC gold speakers to match, not cheap but that is a relevant term. I have fantastic quality and plenty of volume. Base is incredible and I can hear highs I never knew were in the songs. I played with several makes of speakers and never found a good match so I started over and did it right. Just to kick it up a notch further I added a 300 watt bass woofer to get a little cage rattling.
At freeway speeds it sounds as good as at idle, naturally at a higher volume of course. I am a happy camper now, the new speakers fit the old enclosures and the amp hides under the tupperware. I do have the base woofer in the frunk but I can take it out in a couple of minutes when I need to have more space.
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Very Active Member
I'm thinking of these JBL speakers too.
Mike told me about you guys installing them.
Been a while since you installed them.
Any issues ??
Tommy J.
F3L SE5 Black -- F4 windshield w/wings, Reggie LED headlights, driving lights & Cyclops LED, Ultimate seat, Fox shocks, BajaRon swaybar, Lamont highway centerline pegs & 3rd peg, Lamont belt tensioner, K&N air filter, Baker air wings & cup holder, CanAm hitch.
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I think it's similar to not having enough back pressure in your car (or motorcycle) exhaust system.
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Very Active Member
JBL SPEAKERS
Originally Posted by fireplug98
I'm thinking of these JBL speakers too.
Mike told me about you guys installing them.
Been a while since you installed them.
Any issues ??
Tommy J.
...Hi, Tommy. Yes the heading is a TYPO it should be -" JBL "- and after over a year things are fine. MagDave made comments above but didn't answer this " why do the tech's at JBL say going from 4 ohms to 2 ohms is not a problem ". He MAY be correct that running the system at absolute MAX for extended periods of time MIGHT cause an issue. But let me be clear.......NO ONE WOULD DO THIS --- THEY WOULD DAMAGE ---THEIR HEARING --- THE JBL's CAN PLAY EXTREMELY LOUD & CLEAR & CLEAN un-like the OEM's.......and all for about $125.00 ..... you can find these speakers on E-bay.......My system will be at Spyderfest 2016, so you can hear it for yourself. Bring an MP3 or other device with YOUR favorite tunes and you LISTEN before you do this......Mike
Last edited by BLUEKNIGHT911; 02-05-2016 at 12:24 PM.
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Very Active Member
Thanks Mike !!!
I think I'm gone run with these JBL's and install them before SpyderFest. So I can have them for the ride down to SpyderFest !!!
Thanks for your help Mike !!!!
Tommy J.
F3L SE5 Black -- F4 windshield w/wings, Reggie LED headlights, driving lights & Cyclops LED, Ultimate seat, Fox shocks, BajaRon swaybar, Lamont highway centerline pegs & 3rd peg, Lamont belt tensioner, K&N air filter, Baker air wings & cup holder, CanAm hitch.
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Very Active Member
NEW SPEAKER HOLE SIZE
Originally Posted by fireplug98
Thanks Mike !!!
I think I'm gone run with these JBL's and install them before SpyderFest. So I can have them for the ride down to SpyderFest !!!
Thanks for your help Mike !!!!
Tommy J.
...This will save everyone some time......from paper or thin cardboard make a template - a disc 4 5/8" in dia. this is the size of the hole you will need for the JBL 508c speaker to fit......so you need to enlarge the OEM hole to 4 5/8"....Deanna777has some pics in her " latest started threads relating to this project................Mike
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so are the speakers that come with the spyder not a standard size physically where you can buy replacement speakers without modifying the holes?
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Very Active Member
NEW SPEAKER HOLE SIZE
Originally Posted by latony007
so are the speakers that come with the spyder not a standard size physically where you can buy replacement speakers without modifying the holes?
....On the RT ..the front are standard ( 5.25 " )........the rear are custom made for BRP they are actually 4.25, which makes it easy to put in the JBL's in the rear because they are less than 5.25,.............Mike
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Very Active Member
This is for anyone who wants to see Mikes(Blueknight911) pictures of his JBL rear speakers on his RT: go to " Pic's of how I put 5.25" speakers in the rear of any RT" Thread started by Deanna777.
Deanna
Current Spyder - 2023 F3 LTD Special Mineral Blue
Red LED NANO Saddlebag Marker Lights with Full Illumination
Sequential Fender LED'S (Amber/Red) with Safety Reflector
Dual Power Plate (12 V & USB ports)
Gremlin Bell
Rear Trunk Organizer (4 holders, 2 Elastic Holders)
Lamonster "Top Cuff" with adjustable drink Holder
SpyderPops Missing Guard Belt
Console Accent Trim (Carbon Fiber Domed Black)
Ultimate F3 Floorboards
Front Fairing Service Access Door Covers (Carbon Fiber Doomed Black)
Sway Bar with Links
Rolo Laser Alignment
Half Cover
A-Arm Daytime Dual Color LED Running Lights with Blinker Module
Hi-Viz DRL and Sequential Mirrors lights
Marinco 12Volt Power Receptacle with polarized leads & slide lock
Show chrome Trunk Shock
Former Spyder - 2014 RTS SE6 Cognac SOLD
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