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  1. #1
    Very Active Member JayBros's Avatar
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    I changed mine Monday as part of the 56K service, no B.U.D.S., no codes, shifts fine. Now the crazy codes for a spark plug change, that's a different story but they disappeared.
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  2. #2
    Very Active Member AeroPilot's Avatar
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    Default Changed three HCM filters so far - No BUDS required

    Its easiest to just wait until your next 9300 mile or 15,000 km oil change and when you have a little extra time to walk through it but its easy especially if you have the ball head metric allen head sockets (Harbor Freight is a source). I usually let it drain a while, and take time looking over things while I get ready to install the new HCM hydraulic control module.

    Clean off the surfaces and Remember to be easy on the cap screws when torquing it back and use a cross pattern to even out the seal on the filter module to the engine case. And the torque is just in inch lbs, so go easy.

    That reminds me I need to order a couple more from BajaRon and some oil filters for the next change around 60,000 mi. DSCN2231.jpg

    I opened one of the plastic cases, but little to see other than some pretty robust filter media.. I think Doc did a video on the HCM change.
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  3. #3
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    Hello AeroPilot,
    You posting abt using a cross-pattern when tightening the SE6 transmission filter module-to-engine case reminded me that I don't even know what that torque is supposed to be. Do you know, by any chance?
    Regards, PatrickH
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  4. #4
    Ozzie Ozzie Ozzie Peter Aawen's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by AeroPilot View Post
    .....
    Clean off the surfaces and Remember to be easy on the cap screws when torquing it back and use a cross pattern to even out the seal on the filter module to the engine case. And the torque is just in inch lbs, so go easy. ....
    Quote Originally Posted by PatrickH View Post
    Hello AeroPilot,
    You posting abt using a cross-pattern when tightening the SE6 transmission filter module-to-engine case reminded me that I don't even know what that torque is supposed to be. Do you know, by any chance?
    Regards, PatrickH
    Patrick, AeroPilot's post on page 2 of this thread about using that cross pattern was made way back in June 2019, so unless AeroP subscribed to this thread, you might never see a response from him. Similarly with your other request - it is a thread that started a while ago, so you really should check the dates on any posts you want to query/as questions of the poster.

    Sure, possibly someone else in the know might answer instead, but maybe you'd be better off sending AeroPilot a PM direct? (Include a link to this thread tho! ) Worth a shot!
    Last edited by Peter Aawen; 05-28-2021 at 09:49 PM.
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  5. #5
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    Yep that HCM filter is really easy to replace once you get off the side covers.

    In fact I still have the old one in my garage I wanted to open it up and see how much crap is in there

  6. #6
    SpyderLovers Sponsor BajaRon's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by trikermutha View Post
    Yep that HCM filter is really easy to replace once you get off the side covers.

    In fact I still have the old one in my garage I wanted to open it up and see how much crap is in there
    I've seen 2 of these filters cut open, and pictures of a few more. They appear to be clean. Speculation is that you can go much further on this filter than the recommended 28,000 mile interval. This may be true. But gambling your HCM system on a maybe. Not so sure that's the best way to go. The HCM probably has some pretty close tolerance components for BRP to supply a dedicated filter to that function.
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  7. #7
    Very Active Member zuni's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BajaRon View Post
    I've seen 2 of these filters cut open, and pictures of a few more. They appear to be clean. Speculation is that you can go much further on this filter than the recommended 28,000 mile interval. This may be true. But gambling your HCM system on a maybe. Not so sure that's the best way to go. The HCM probably has some pretty close tolerance components for BRP to supply a dedicated filter to that function.
    Totally agree with this gamble comment. It is the general crude build up that creates the issues with solenoids not so much any big chunks (which you hopefully never see). I have been adding spin on oil filters to my truck transmissions for years. Transmission filters used to be filters, today they are basically screens. Fact is most people ignore service on vehicle transmissions until there is a problem. Older vehicles didn't have the tight tolerances that new vehicles have today. Some argue if it helps but as I approach close to 1,000,000 miles across a couple of trucks I have yet to have a transmission problem. Cheap insurance like Ron points out.

    CJ JAX
    Last edited by Peter Aawen; 07-22-2020 at 08:16 AM. Reason: Fixed quote display

  8. #8
    SpyderLovers Sponsor BajaRon's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by zuni View Post
    Totally agree with this gamble comment. It is the general crude build up that creates the issues with solenoids not so much any big chunks (which you hopefully never see). I have been adding spin on oil filters to my truck transmissions for years. Transmission filters used to be filters, today they are basically screens. Fact is most people ignore service on vehicle transmissions until there is a problem. Older vehicles didn't have the tight tolerances that new vehicles have today. Some argue if it helps but as I approach close to 1,000,000 miles across a couple of trucks I have yet to have a transmission problem. Cheap insurance like Ron points out.

    CJ JAX
    I am interested in your truck oil filter (trans). I have about 40K on my F250 and I will be doing a fluid/filter change on it. But you're right. The new filters are usually no more than a screen. What filter system do you prefer?
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  9. #9
    Very Active Member zuni's Avatar
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    This is the one I used Ron. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004XONTPM..._t1_B004XOPZV8 For where I was installing it the top ports worked best. You can find them with side ports if that is a better fit for you. I took the output line from the transmission that went to the cooler and instead ran the line to the filer housing. I took the output from the filter housing to the cooler. I usually run the first filter for 500 miles to get out the accumulated junk and then I swap at every oil change as the filters are cheap and I get to install a fresh 1/2 quart of fluid each time. I have never done a fluid flush as I figure I have exchanged about 7 quarts of fluid between transmission services.

    CJ JAX
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  10. #10
    Active Member Wahrsuul's Avatar
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    Ok, I'm about to attempt my HCM filter along with a few other things. I was reading the service manual, and they refer to several gaskets and o-rings. Are there any that need to be replaced for this? Do they come with the filter?
    2014 RT-S Orange - LED headlights/driving lights, LED under mirror turns, LED brake/run lights along trunk and saddlebags, LED third brake light, LED turn bulb replacements, Magic Mirrors, Voltmeter, Oil PSI gauge, heated gear connection, BRP backrest, dash Mount USB plug, Lamonster belt tensioner, Baja Ron sway bar, NBV highway pegs, BRP arm rests M2 suspension.
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  11. #11
    Very Active Member JayBros's Avatar
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    The HCM filter comes as one complete assembly. The only difficult thing about it is removing the most rearward lower bolt; you have to remove the rear right side panel. You do not have to remove the underbelly panel immediately below the filter. I placed a sacrificial T-shirt under the filter and the amount of oil that came out wasn't more than a couple of ounces, didn't really saturate the shirt. Since you've the service manual you have the tightening sequence of the bolts. I went around them three times in sequence.
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  12. #12
    Very Active Member IdahoMtnSpyder's Avatar
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    I changed the HCM filter myself, no BUDS. I did have shifting issues for about one or two miles but it cleared itself up.'

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  13. #13
    Very Active Member irvin48's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by IdahoMtnSpyder View Post
    I changed the HCM filter myself, no BUDS. I did have shifting issues for about one or two miles but it cleared itself up.'
    i had the same problems.cleared up soon, just like yours. thanks for all the info everyone !
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  14. #14
    SpyderLovers Sponsor BajaRon's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by irvin48 View Post
    i had the same problems.cleared up soon, just like yours. thanks for all the info everyone !
    What procedure did you use? Did you let the engine idle for a few minutes before riding away? Did you shift into 1st and reverse and let it idle in both gears before riding away? Just curious because some experience this shifting issue. And others do not. I am thinking it might be due to a difference in the process used.
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    Very Active Member irvin48's Avatar
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    just let it warm up for a few minutes. backed out of the shop, and slowly shifted the first 3 gears up an d down.
    kinda had a mind of its own. went about 5 miles shifting up and down. back to normal after less than a mile.
    i came back and let it idle for a minute with the dipstick out in case a bubble or 2 needed to escape.got over 400 miles since.
    2015 rts-white pearl- mods- '16 F3 fat 6 chrome wheels,
    and some little stuff. setback utopia backrest, baja ron
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    lamonster fbb foot pegs[modified brackets], lamonts
    vibration damper, rock guard, and side case stiffener kit,
    . brp comfort seat. , fomozas and
    altimax, magic mirror mts, and wide mirrors.
    [joyce & irvin toms]

  16. #16
    SpyderLovers Sponsor BajaRon's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by irvin48 View Post
    just let it warm up for a few minutes. backed out of the shop, and slowly shifted the first 3 gears up an d down.
    kinda had a mind of its own. went about 5 miles shifting up and down. back to normal after less than a mile.
    i came back and let it idle for a minute with the dipstick out in case a bubble or 2 needed to escape.got over 400 miles since.
    OK. Sounds like a prudent approach. I am trying to quantify why some have shifting issues and others do not. I'm not finding any pattern in this. I'm either missing something. Or, this is just a random issue.
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  17. #17
    Active Member Wahrsuul's Avatar
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    Guess I'll find out, hoping to get to it this weekend.
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  18. #18
    SpyderLovers Sponsor BajaRon's Avatar
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    The HCM filter change on the 1330 Rotax is an easy job. The only thing you need to pay attention to (as with any O-Ring sealed component) is to tighten each bolt up evenly, a little at a time. Do not tighten 1 bolt and then move to then next.

    The main thing is to provide even pressure around the circumference of the filter. You will end up with a small, even gap between the filter housing and the engine case as the O-Ring will hold the housing just off the engine case. This is an easy way to check to be sure you've done the job correctly. If the gap is not the same all the way around, then you have not gotten the bolts tightened properly. It's not difficult as long as you tighten each bolt a little at a time.

    These retaining bolts do not have to be real tight. Just snug pressure is all that is needed. It is the O-Ring that is doing all the work.

    Performing your own service work not only saves you time and money. It helps you to learn about your machine. And you will usually do at least as good a job as the tech at the dealership.
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  19. #19
    Very Active Member JKMSPYDER's Avatar
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    I did mine at 28,000 miles. No BUDS needed.
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  20. #20
    Active Member Wahrsuul's Avatar
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    My brother and I are tearing into it tomorrow morning, guess we'll find out. He's got an 05 'Wing, so we're used to the "acre of plastic" that has to be removed. I haven't ridden all week as I found a slight drip of brake fluid on the left wheel so we'll have to look at that as well. Hoping to get the HCM and oil change done tomorrow. Maybe the coolant as well if we can get to it.
    2014 RT-S Orange - LED headlights/driving lights, LED under mirror turns, LED brake/run lights along trunk and saddlebags, LED third brake light, LED turn bulb replacements, Magic Mirrors, Voltmeter, Oil PSI gauge, heated gear connection, BRP backrest, dash Mount USB plug, Lamonster belt tensioner, Baja Ron sway bar, NBV highway pegs, BRP arm rests M2 suspension.
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  21. #21
    Very Active Member KX5062's Avatar
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    I too have done it at home without any BUDS issues. It's kind of a PITA, but it's not difficult.
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  22. #22
    Active Member Wahrsuul's Avatar
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    I did mine yesterday, along with an oil and fuel filter change. (All from Ron's) Getting everything out of the way was more of an issue, but we managed.

    Haven't had a chance to test the bike as we also (some might say stupidly) decided to change out the new left side saddle bag. That's turned out to be a MAJOR PITA. After getting it mostly back together, some of my taillights don't work now. So we've got to tear the back end apart and see where we went wrong.
    2014 RT-S Orange - LED headlights/driving lights, LED under mirror turns, LED brake/run lights along trunk and saddlebags, LED third brake light, LED turn bulb replacements, Magic Mirrors, Voltmeter, Oil PSI gauge, heated gear connection, BRP backrest, dash Mount USB plug, Lamonster belt tensioner, Baja Ron sway bar, NBV highway pegs, BRP arm rests M2 suspension.
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  23. #23
    Active Member Wahrsuul's Avatar
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    All back together, and we did about 100 miles, and everything is just fine. No issues shifting, and the Amsoil seems to have smoothed the engine even further.
    2014 RT-S Orange - LED headlights/driving lights, LED under mirror turns, LED brake/run lights along trunk and saddlebags, LED third brake light, LED turn bulb replacements, Magic Mirrors, Voltmeter, Oil PSI gauge, heated gear connection, BRP backrest, dash Mount USB plug, Lamonster belt tensioner, Baja Ron sway bar, NBV highway pegs, BRP arm rests M2 suspension.
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  24. #24
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    thanks for the info

  25. #25
    Active Member PaSpyderRyder's Avatar
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    I changed mine last summer and did not have Buds ........ no issues with it in the past year since I changed it out.

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