Constant Error Code

[spyderlady11]

I have a 2011 Spyder Rt which I purchased new. About 10 miles into the ride home I got the P0174 error code. I have had this Spyder back in for the same issue around 15 times. My warranty is ending soon and I once again have it back in the shop for the same issue. If there is any good news, that would be that I purchased a 2015 but handed down my 2011 to the husband. I really need to get this issue fixed so we can ride together. A couple months back a BRP rep was in the dealer and gave the mechanic directions on how to fix the problem. I was hopeful but got the same dreaded error about 2,000 miles later. What should I do? I hate just giving up.

[cuznjohn]

it is a ecm code, says system too lean bank 2 injection and fuel system, i would contact the dealer and tell them that this has happened too many times and you want it fixed again and file a report with brp and tell them how many times it has been fixed. also tell them you want to be covered after warranty is over and that this is happening too many times now

[gypsy_100]

Yep. As Cuznjohn says above, the rear cylinder is running lean. I had this issue on my 2011 RT and it reappeared after a couple thousand miles just like yours is doing. First they thought it was a vacuum leak at the MAP sensor hoses. Then it came back. Then they tried replacing the O2 sensors. Then it came back. Finally they bit the bullet and replaced the fuel injectors. That solved the problem and I could actually tell the difference in the way it ran. Started better when cold, idled better when cold after starting up. It's a real PITA replacing the injectors, and expensive for the parts, but that did it.

Mine was under warranty for all these efforts. BRP was brought into the loop before doing the injectors and agreed to cover the injectors and also said to clean the throttle bodies (they were very clean as it turned out but got cleaned anyway).

As an aside, don't know how many miles are on your Spyder or if you've ever had the valve clearance checked. If they eventually decide to do the injectors, they'll have so much stuff ripped off that going a little further and checking the valves is no big deal. I took advantage of that and the dealer checked the valve clearance for only $150. None needed any adjustment but it's nice to find that out for $150 instead of $600.

[Chupaca]

hard to say not knowing what they have done so far. Seems they need to get more aggresive with brp tech cause they should have gotten it fixed by now. This is no longer a repair world just replace the parts without hesitation and let the techs and manufacturers deal with the why...hate it when they replace piece by piece and wait for you to tell them if it worked...

[pitzerwm]

I think that you are past the lemon law requirements. See a lawyer. Or call your AG for the state.

[gypsy_100]

This is no longer a repair world just replace the parts without hesitation and let the techs and manufacturers deal with the why...hate it when they replace piece by piece and wait for you to tell them if it worked...

Agree. Maybe I made it sound like that's what they did in my case, but not so. The proper diagnosis and logic were followed. For the benefit of the original poster, I'll elaborate. First step for a lean condition is to look for vacuum leaks. Did that and the tech found the MAP sensor tubing for the #2 cylinder had dried out enough that it was not tight at the plastic slip-on fitting where it goes on the MAP sensor. No cracks like others have experienced but not tight. I saw this for myself so I know he was being honest, not just taking an easy way out. Fixed that. Codes went away but with an intermittent problem, you don't really know if it's solved. Couple thousand miles later, code returns. Couldn't find any more vacuum leak possibilities. Next step is what could reduce the fuel flow? Dirty fuel filter (had been replaced recently as routine maintenance), measure fuel pressure and flow to insure the pump is operating correctly and the pressure regulator is operating correctly. All done and All OK. According to the shop manual, the next step is the final step -- replace the injectors. Here the tech, who is very good, wanted to take a detour as he found cases reported on the BRP tech's website where replacing the O2 sensors solved this problem, something not suggested in the shop manual. So he did that, of course codes go away but return less than a thousand miles later. So final step is to replace the injectors. BRP approved that beforehand but I'm sure they would not have done so if the tech had not done all the earlier work and diagnosis first. Injectors turned out to be the culprit. Any time I was in open-loop mode (cold starts, cold idle), the improvement was noticeable. In normal closed-loop mode it's difficult to say from the driver's seat there was an improvement because the feedback control keeps everything so close to perfect anyway. Only when the mixture needed strays outside what the injectors can deliver does the system throw the code. And my guess is the system is very sensitive and perhaps throws the code for a very tiny deviation. Don't know that for a fact. But anyway, the codes never came back. Measured over the next thousand miles or so, my fuel economy did decrease by 1/2 to 1 mpg. Not statistically significant (due to the large standard deviation) but intuitively I feel that is a proper result and indeed confirms at certain closed-loop conditions the bike was now running richer and not throwing codes. More than you wanted to know.

[Chupaca]

Never...always like a detailed report cause it helps know what to suggest if anything. Thanks

[Mickay]

Hi,

Maybe before replacing the injector, just changing the o-ring around the injector. I turn the injector left and right and it's was pretty easy the o-ring was too loose ? No real resistance, maybe the leak came from there. On the other cylinder the injector don't turn easily as the other.

I will change the o-ring before buying new injector. Past 2 years a try and change a couple of part and nothing work.

What do you think ?

I let you know soon.

Yep. As Cuznjohn says above, the rear cylinder is running lean. I had this issue on my 2011 RT and it reappeared after a couple thousand miles just like yours is doing. First they thought it was a vacuum leak at the MAP sensor hoses. Then it came back. Then they tried replacing the O2 sensors. Then it came back. Finally they bit the bullet and replaced the fuel injectors. That solved the problem and I could actually tell the difference in the way it ran. Started better when cold, idled better when cold after starting up. It's a real PITA replacing the injectors, and expensive for the parts, but that did it.

Mine was under warranty for all these efforts. BRP was brought into the loop before doing the injectors and agreed to cover the injectors and also said to clean the throttle bodies (they were very clean as it turned out but got cleaned anyway).

As an aside, don't know how many miles are on your Spyder or if you've ever had the valve clearance checked. If they eventually decide to do the injectors, they'll have so much stuff ripped off that going a little further and checking the valves is no big deal. I took advantage of that and the dealer checked the valve clearance for only $150. None needed any adjustment but it's nice to find that out for $150 instead of $600.