I did a few wiring/light changes and of course had the mirrors off. While putting them back on, which I had done without any problem before, I could not get the bottom "pen" to "lock". I screwed with them (yes, both had the same problem) for an hour trying to figure out why. Gave up and added a small screw catching the plastic lip. Unless you really smack it, I think it will hold them fine. What other means of attaching these mirrors have you tried?
One of the hardest decisions you'll ever face in life is choosing whether to walk away or try harder.
The metal clips are probably bent just a little bit.....the mounting setup is pretty lame that's for sure. I did a similar thing with a screw in each mirror.
The metal clips are probably bent just a little bit.....the mounting setup is pretty lame that's for sure. I did a similar thing with a screw in each mirror.
The metal clips looked the same but I messed them also a little.
One of the hardest decisions you'll ever face in life is choosing whether to walk away or try harder.
There are only three kinds of Spyder owners... Those who think the mirrors are crap and complain about it; those who think the mirrors are crap but don't complain about; and those who think the mirrors are crap and pretend they don't think so. Notice that all three have one thing in common.
It's sort of makes you wonder why BRP has not addressed the problem after eight years.
There are only three kinds of Spyder owners... Those who think the mirrors are crap and complain about it; those who think the mirrors are crap but don't complain about; and those who think the mirrors are crap and pretend they don't think so. Notice that all three have one thing in common.
It's sort of makes you wonder why BRP has not addressed the problem after eight years.
I think that JC offered the most plausible reasoning for BRP's methodology...
Everything about those mounting connections should be considered as nothing more than a "Shear-pin". If you smack a mirror unintentionally; they break loose. (Don't ask... )
If you solidify the mounting; you run the risk of busting something expensive!
After busting one of my clips: I have to agree with his assessment.
I got tired of messing with them and replaced the right side for $39.98 and per BRP there is a difference between the left and right side.
Pictures, replaced with what?
Has anyone for the two "snap on pins" tried putting a piece shaped like the top one and made all three a slide down connection? If you made them pretty tight, they should stay on.
If I remember right someone said that they bolted theirs on, but I don't see how you would access the bolts.
Last edited by pitzerwm; 08-15-2015 at 06:28 PM.
One of the hardest decisions you'll ever face in life is choosing whether to walk away or try harder.
I think that JC offered the most plausible reasoning for BRP's methodology...
Everything about those mounting connections should be considered as nothing more than a "Shear-pin". If you smack a mirror unintentionally; they break loose. (Don't ask... )
If you solidify the mounting; you run the risk of busting something expensive!
After busting one of my clips: I have to agree with his assessment.
I don't disagree with that theory. The same principle is true with automobiles. However, you can take a mirror off a car with reasonable assurance that it'll fit back on properly, and that it won't fall off if you hit a pothole. I think that if the engineers at BRP put their minds to it, they could come up with a better "shear pin".
I got tired of messing with them and replaced the right side for $39.98 and per BRP there is a difference between the left and right side.
the clips on the 13RT are right and left handed. They have a different part # too. But you got ripped off if they charged you that much for one clip.
2017 F3T-SM6 Squared Away Mirror Wedgies & Alignment
2014 RTS-SM6 123,600 miles Sold 11/2017
2014 RTL-SE6 8,600 miles
2011 RTS-SM5 5,000 miles
2013 RTS-SM5 burned up with 13,200 miles in 13 weeks
2010 RTS-SM5 59,148 miles
2010 RT- 622
I spent a bit of time with the Dremel to make myself replacement 'mirror pellets' that also have the effect of lessening the tiny vibration in the mirrors at speed. I'd show you a pic, but they are on the bike & the mirrors are held on reasonably firmly now, don't really want to risk a removal! All it took to make these up was sacrificing a short length of 5mm thick urethane cutting board & then spend the time required to cut/grind myself a pair of 'less fragile' pellets using the previously broken pellets as a pattern - one pellet out of the 3 on each mirror is designed as a 'sacrificial pellet' that will break readily if hit, I suppose to avoid injuring anyone or breaking more parts if it gets hit, but they are waaaaayyyyy too fragile IMO. My replacements are about half as strong again, so they still work as designed, but do take a little more than a gentle bump to break!
How did the originals break? My new bike went to the dealer for it's first service with the mirrors fine; they did the service, I picked the bike up & i had only travelled about 20 miles of the freeway trip home when one of the mirrors just fell off!! Checking it out revealed that the 'sacrificial pellet' had been broken sometime during the service & replaced with a wad of insulation tape stuffed in there to hold the mirror on the bike as if it had an unbroken pellet!! It's taken almost a year for the dealer to finally admit to & then remedy that little bit of incompetence & deviousness!!
Checking it out revealed that the 'sacrificial pellet' had been broken sometime during the service & replaced with a wad of insulation tape stuffed in there to hold the mirror on the bike as if it had an unbroken pellet!! It's taken almost a year for the dealer to finally admit to & then remedy that little bit of incompetence & deviousness!![/QUOTE]
DANG ! the name of your dealer please, and thanks for ratting them out
opps just saw you were down under, so will automatically avoid that dealer.
Flatlander, Navy Veteran, Widower
Loved my 2014 RTS SE6 Pearl white
but have a new love now,
my 2017 RTS SE6 Champagne metallic (Champ)
Has anyone for the two "snap on pins" tried putting a piece shaped like the top one and made all three a slide down connection? If you made them pretty tight, they should stay on.
If I remember right someone said that they bolted theirs on, but I don't see how you would access the bolts.
Has anyone for the two "snap on pins" tried putting a piece shaped like the top one and made all three a slide down connection? If you made them pretty tight, they should stay on.
If I remember right someone said that they bolted theirs on, but I don't see how you would access the bolts.
Bill, I came up with a FIX and sent Bob D. a kit so He could do His ......But I'm sure He never did it so ask Him to send it to you......He didn't have to pay for it, so He should send it to you for FREE also ....................Mike
Sounds like several of us are working on options which is great.
I had a tab inside the mirror break thus allowing too much flex so no matter what, you can't get enough force applied to make it clip even with a brand new clip. As a temp fix, I took one of the keyhole type mounts (the one from the top of the mirror) and flipped it over an mounted it in the hole where the metal clip style goes. So both mounts towards the mirror glass are now keyholes. For the front mount (my now weak one) I took the metal spring out, trimmed some plastic to mimic a keyhole and mounted that in the mirror.
Now the mirror essentially has 3 keyhole style and no metal springs.
To keep it from bouncing off, I used some pipe hanger strapping and used one of the puck mount screws to secure the strap to the mirror. Then I formed the strap aroung the edge of the mirror and ran it off the bottom.
Then, I mounted the mirror which basically just slides onto the mounting pegs now and ran the strap down under the air deflector and used the top bolt of the deflector to secure the strap. Since the strap is thin metal it is really flexible and tucked behind really easy. You can barely tell it is there unless you know to look for it.
To get the mirror off, I just have to take the deflector off and lift the mirror off. No more having to get rough with it.
The nice thing is that I still have the plastic puck in place so it anything hits it, those are still the main fail points as designed.
That was basically a proof of concept for me. The next step is to make some proper plastic pucks. I don't think a 3D printer would make strong enough parts so a mill might be necessary...I have a buddy with one so I might enlist his help.
2017 Can Am Commander Limited
2012 Cadillac CTS-V Black Diamond
2020 F3 Limited Magma Red (miss the 2011 Viper red)
2010 RT622 - Black
From my experience in the auto industry, it looks like the bodywork for the RT was designed by a guy that knew he'd never have to work on it. If we could set it up where the responsible designer had to actually live with his design, believe me, it would be a lot easier to work on.
Sounds like several of us are working on options which is great.
I had a tab inside the mirror break thus allowing too much flex so no matter what, you can't get enough force applied to make it clip even with a brand new clip. As a temp fix, I took one of the keyhole type mounts (the one from the top of the mirror) and flipped it over an mounted it in the hole where the metal clip style goes. So both mounts towards the mirror glass are now keyholes. For the front mount (my now weak one) I took the metal spring out, trimmed some plastic to mimic a keyhole and mounted that in the mirror.
Now the mirror essentially has 3 keyhole style and no metal springs.
To keep it from bouncing off, I used some pipe hanger strapping and used one of the puck mount screws to secure the strap to the mirror. Then I formed the strap aroung the edge of the mirror and ran it off the bottom.
Then, I mounted the mirror which basically just slides onto the mounting pegs now and ran the strap down under the air deflector and used the top bolt of the deflector to secure the strap. Since the strap is thin metal it is really flexible and tucked behind really easy. You can barely tell it is there unless you know to look for it.
To get the mirror off, I just have to take the deflector off and lift the mirror off. No more having to get rough with it.
The nice thing is that I still have the plastic puck in place so it anything hits it, those are still the main fail points as designed.
That was basically a proof of concept for me. The next step is to make some proper plastic pucks. I don't think a 3D printer would make strong enough parts so a mill might be necessary...I have a buddy with one so I might enlist his help.
One of the hardest decisions you'll ever face in life is choosing whether to walk away or try harder.
I hope the rest of you sort out a method that is valued to secure your mirrors if you desire it.
Our mirror install on the 14 RTs. Still need to tidy up a few details like painting the bolt heads. These do not rattle, can not fall off, turn signals on front side and on the rear side wired into the oem flashers. Best of all, I got rid of the huge mirrors that I never enjoyed the styling of.
What's with these Mirrors
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Originally Posted by MZEMS2
) 
That's a Technician who should be collecting his paychecks from within the Fast-Food Industry... 
