...............I THINK EVERYONE HERE WOULD LOVE TO KNOW WHAT ENGINE YOU HAVE ???????????...................It makes a difference .....................Mike
I have the ACE 1330. I'm in the right subforum I hope!
I just switched to Rotella 15W40 "dino" oil. I previously had the OEM blend first and then Rotella T6.
I switched to Rotella 15W40 because I plan to change it every 3,000 miles. Almost any oil (of the proper viscosity) will perform adequately for a small interval like that. Rotella 15W40 is JASO MA2 certified. The biggest issue (for me) with intervals beyond 3,000 miles is (shared sump) shearing. YMMV
You will be fine with that oil for 3000. I tested it in my '14 RT at 3K and it came back with a viscosity cST100C @ 11.5, which on BITOG scale is a mid-upper 30W.
Two Wheelers from 1963-2011
Three Wheelers:
2011 RT(Red)
2014 RT(white)
2016 F3T(red)
2022 RT current ride(silver)
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2016 Slingshot
2018 Vanderhall
2019 Slingshot
It seems my gas mileage has improved 3-5 mpg since putting in the M1.
I'd like to think that the Mob 1 change has resulted in better mileage which I have gotten over the last 1,500 miles, on the order of 2+ mpg, but I've also upped my shifting points. I've also ditched ECO mode. Too many variables changed to identify the key one.
Artillery lends dignity to what would
otherwise be a vulgar brawl.
****************************** Cognac 2014 RT-S
I used the 4T in my 2008 Ninja 650r and had no issues. At some point I will be making the change if the results come back good and I believe they will. More MPG!?!? Who wouldn't want to change it!?????
2014 Black RTS SE6
2012 Black RS - Sold 7/24/2014
2011 Sonata LTD
I the early days of this forum, the motorcycle blend of Mobil-1 was reported to have caused clutch slippage, resulting in costly repairs. I remember Scotty (Nancy'sToy) recommending it not be used. I don't recall which Mobil-1 was used, V-Twin or the one mention by the OP of this thread. I have used the 4T on my GL1800A for years without a problem.
The Mobil 1 in question was the 4T 10/40 (the V Twin is 20/50 for air-cooled V Twins that specify the higher viscosity). 4T is rated JASO MA-1 and is indeed a very good oil. I put over 100K on my GL1800 with mostly 4T in it. At 100K it consumed very little oil, hardly any more than when it was new. Never had a trace of clutch slippage. Honda specified JASO MA in the owner's manuals back then which was before JASO came out with two spec's -- MA-1 and MA-2. My GL1800 was an '03 and I see yours is '01. Since Honda spec'd JASO MA, by default that means that under the new system, MA-1 would be fine. Unfortunately BRP chooses to not provide any such information so we can make an informed decision, instead just saying "Trust us. Use BRP oil". There were anecdotal reports of clutch slippage with 4T so some people, such as Scotty, figured why take a chance? Good MA-2 oils are available so why not use them? The open question here is would the 1330's ever develop slippage with an MA-1 rated oil? Do they need MA-2? Since we have no engineering or scientific evidence either way, you pays your money and you takes your chance. Individual decision. Neither one is right nor wrong.
The Mobil 1 in question was the 4T 10/40 (the V Twin is 20/50 for air-cooled V Twins that specify the higher viscosity). 4T is rated JASO MA-1 and is indeed a very good oil. I put over 100K on my GL1800 with mostly 4T in it. At 100K it consumed very little oil, hardly any more than when it was new. Never had a trace of clutch slippage. Honda specified JASO MA in the owner's manuals back then which was before JASO came out with two spec's -- MA-1 and MA-2. My GL1800 was an '03 and I see yours is '01. Since Honda spec'd JASO MA, by default that means that under the new system, MA-1 would be fine. Unfortunately BRP chooses to not provide any such information so we can make an informed decision, instead just saying "Trust us. Use BRP oil". There were anecdotal reports of clutch slippage with 4T so some people, such as Scotty, figured why take a chance? Good MA-2 oils are available so why not use them? The open question here is would the 1330's ever develop slippage with an MA-1 rated oil? Do they need MA-2? Since we have no engineering or scientific evidence either way, you pays your money and you takes your chance. Individual decision. Neither one is right nor wrong.
We now have over 500 miles on the new oil (in 4 days) and I have not noticed even the hint of a slip and I can guarantee we are probably moving more total mass than 99% out there. If anything, I think it grabs better. I have been really paying attention, also. I may be wrong, but I think the M1 clutch slippage was due to cage oil, not the 4t oil.
We now have over 500 miles on the new oil (in 4 days) and I have not noticed even the hint of a slip and I can guarantee we are probably moving more total mass than 99% out there. If anything, I think it grabs better. I have been really paying attention, also. I may be wrong, but I think the M1 clutch slippage was due to cage oil, not the 4t oil.
Glad to hear the Mobil 1 4T is doing well. As I said, I always liked it in the 'Wing. I know there were many cases of automotive oil being the culprit in clutch slippage, including automotive Mobil 1. I recall there were a few instances of motorcycle oil 4T resulting in slippage but I'd be hard pressed to prove it. My memory is as fallible as anyone's.
Also, FWIW, I used all my references to the RT series. Not sure what the F3 info says.
The info I have read from Steve all dealt with quantity.
PK
Sorry, PK, here's the link. Brain was fading last night. Too much yard work, not enough riding. Link reports erroneous API service classification SM and SN for F3. http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/s...0-Oil-Level-on
Last edited by JayBros; 08-02-2015 at 07:44 AM.
Artillery lends dignity to what would
otherwise be a vulgar brawl.
****************************** Cognac 2014 RT-S
Not true. The owners manual (Page 123 of the 2015 RT owners Guide) specifies requirements for the oil beyond the BRP brand. Read the snip of the owners manual I attached. Read it for what is stated not some wanker BS misinterpretation.
I try and avoid these oil topics now since there are so many opinions without fact or simply misinformation.
PK
Chill out, please. I made my comment for a little relaxed tongue-in-cheek humor. If the only way you can make your point is to call me obnoxious names and claim I don't deal in facts, then you are the one misinterpreting. Check my posts. Facts. When an opinion, it's clearly labeled as such. This is exactly why I stopped posting on this forum for a long time. Didn't even read it. Wasn't worth it. Who wants to read posts where everyone is just calling each other names? Thought things in this forum were getting better. Guess I was wrong. Time to disappear again.
.....and, back to this awesome M1 oil, I ran a tank out (at least until the low fuel came on) and got right at 200 miles! It held 5.4 gallons when filled up, so that's about 37-38 miles per gallon. At an additional 5 miles per gallon over 5,000 miles, at around $3.00 a gallon, that gives about 1/2 gallon, or $1.50 a tank. That would be 25 tanks, or almost $40. The better mileage paid for the filter and almost 3 quarts of oil....... Not bad!!
Now I realize these figures are just averages, but I am impressed.
...I ran a tank out (at least until the low fuel came on) and got right at 200 miles! It held 5.4 gallons when filled up...
I ran low on gas the other day, to the point that the last LCD bar on the gas display disappeared! I almost always wait until the low fuel light kicks on to buy gas. I didn't know there was a further level of emptiness! I put 6.212 gallons in to fill it up.
I think I'd be buying gas a little sooner in the future. Who knows how far the next gas station is. I have also not bought gas until the low light comes on but I've never put more than 5.5 gallons in the tank. I'm thinking your were cutting it pretty close to running out.
Well as usual I prefer to be somewhat different. So at this OIL change ( 4,987 miles and I plan to have it tested Rotella T-6, 5W40 Full Syn )....I am trying Rotella " T " ,a 15W -40 because an unexpected journey came up ( approx. 800 miles total ) and I wasn't going to go past 5 K on the T-6........I only plan to use it for maybe 2000 miles before I put the Spyder to bed for the winter, so I wasn't suoer concerned about longevity......I put in 4 1/2 qts.....and started it up and it really sounded ....smoother (?)......So I hopped on and took it for an easy warm-up ride. Well I'll say this for a straight DINO - OIL I think it was smoother than my full syn T-6.......especially when shifting into reverse and back into drive.....I then checked the " up to TEMP " level and added about 1/4 Qt.........I'll report back after I get home about this OIL ......Mike
I think I'd be buying gas a little sooner in the future. Who knows how far the next gas station is. I have also not bought gas until the low light comes on but I've never put more than 5.5 gallons in the tank. I'm thinking your were cutting it pretty close to running out.
Well as usual I prefer to be somewhat different. So at this OIL change ( 4,987 miles and I plan to have it tested Rotella T-6, 5W40 Full Syn )....I am trying Rotella " T " ,a 15W -40 because an unexpected journey came up ( approx. 800 miles total ) and I wasn't going to go past 5 K on the T-6........I only plan to use it for maybe 2000 miles before I put the Spyder to bed for the winter, so I wasn't suoer concerned about longevity......I put in 4 1/2 qts.....and started it up and it really sounded ....smoother (?)......So I hopped on and took it for an easy warm-up ride. Well I'll say this for a straight DINO - OIL I think it was smoother than my full syn T-6.......especially when shifting into reverse and back into drive.....I then checked the " up to TEMP " level and added about 1/4 Qt.........I'll report back after I get home about this OIL ......Mike
I measured the oil that came out (no filter change) and 4.5 liters (4.9qt) came out so I put the same amount back in. My dip stick measures a little above the "low" mark. I'll leave it that way since I don't want to overfill it and that is an adequate amount of oil. (IMO a lot of people stress too much trying to get the oil to the "high" mark. There is a 500 cc difference between "low" and "high".)
Originally Posted by BLUEKNIGHT911
...............I THINK EVERYONE HERE WOULD LOVE TO KNOW WHAT ENGINE YOU HAVE ???????????...................It makes a difference .....................Mike
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and I believe they will. More MPG!?!? Who wouldn't want to change it!?????
